ok..for the last time a few more questions...
--- im just going to get the wardens kit with the longer pilot bushing etc. for the clutch stuff, i guess ill fork out the 100 buks on a whole 11" chevy setup. now....for the throwout bearing..toyota or chevy? ANYTHING ELSE I NEED?
--- its going in a *used to be* 3spd cruiser to the 2f motor.
--- i have as follows, the adapter plate and bolts, the new gaskets for t-case and tranny, an AA crossmember and bolts, the sm420 of course, ill be getting the wardens stuff for bolting to the b.h., im workin on the shift linkage template as i type, so, what else? as far as clutch and throwout bearing...for a 2f motor remember that....

the throwout bearing needs to be for the toyota, not chevy. The only thing that is chevy is the clutch disk and the tranny. The pilot bearing is kind of a combo of the toy/chevy

i guess ill fork out the 100 buks on a whole 11" chevy setup. now....for the throwout bearing.. Dustin you only need the GM clutch disk, as you will use the Toy pressure plate. Don't know if there is a Plaza Auto Parts in the Sacto area but this #, CD-82009 may help. Some parts stores do not have or want to sell the disk without the P/P. So call around. I paid $42.90 for the one we put in my son's truck. Napa has the Toyota T/O bearing, #N1728. I paid $22.02 for mine.
Mike

are you guys sure i can use the cruiser p/p and stuff? i have been told that i can...and then i told i can not. whats the deal???

Originally posted by rustyb:
<STRONG>the throwout bearing needs to be for the toyota, not chevy. The only thing that is chevy is the clutch disk and the tranny. The pilot bearing is kind of a combo of the toy/chevy</STRONG>

--- what do you mean its a combo? is this part included in the wardens kit? cause if so then il be fine when i get it.

make sure you get a good look at the fork and pivot also. as long as they're in good shape put a dab of waterproof grease on the hinge points on the fork and slap it back together.
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are you guys sure i can use the cruiser p/p The stock P/P is working in both of my 72' FJ40s with no problem. Not only that but there was enough room in the diameter of the dished area that we didn't trim the OD of the clutch. Both of the flywheels have holes that relieve the clutch dust and possible debri.
what do you mean its a combo? is this part included in the wardens kit? By combo he meant that the OD of the pilot bearing fits into the stock flywheel and the ID fits the diamenter of the sm420 input shaft. This part was included with the Wardens front kit. Along with a sleeve that fits over the input shaft bearing retainer. The OD is large enough for proper fit of the Toyota throw out bearing. If I remember correctly you have a 2f engine??????? If so you may have a problem regarding the Wardens pilot bearing. I don't know if the OD of the P/B is the same on the f and 2f engines. Call Wardens and see. Hope this clarifies your question.
Mike

Yeah Dustin, I meant what Flexing40 just said. I am running the 2f,420,chevy disk,toy throw out bearing,toy press plate, wardens kit,plate adapter and no problems.

rustyb got it exactly right. make sure to use a good quality gasket sealant too for the mating surfaces between the 420 and the tcase. i don't remember the # but it was a red loctite brand. you don't want leaks. and definitely use regular loctite on the bolt holding the tcase input gear onto the 420 output shaft, you don't want that thing slipping loose.

just remembered, you'll also need 2 sae bolts and 2 toy metric bolts to hold the 420 to the bell housing. IIRC, the metrics go on top, the SAE on the bottom.

Hey Dustin, yes, now I remember (they are all right) You need the Toyota pressure plate because it will be bolting to the Toyota flywheel which has a diffrent bolt pattern than the Chevy would.

The reason why you only need 2 metric bolts is because only the top two are threaded, but if you really like metric, you can get two bolts/nuts for the bottom two!

The pilot bushing/bearing is the same on 2F's and F's, If you have any problems removing the bushing out of your motor, call me before you do damage to the crank shaft! I have a little trick for removing those, and it involves FIRE!!! <IMG SRC="smilies/pissed.gif" border="0">

Jeff

how about a pilot bushing puller?!
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ok guys...here my list. help me out here.

--- im going to buy the following
-chevy 11" clutch pad
-wardens adapter stuff
- 2 bolts for the bottom of the sm420 to mount on the b.h with nuts and washers
-can i use the metric bolts i have now for the top of the mounts?

--- ANYTHING ELSE? i am really writing this down as my list ...i just wanna be sure as possible here. thanks a million guys!

Well let me know too Dustin.. It sounds like you need the Toyota Plate not the Chevy.. And I have a T/out Bearing that is from the Kit I bought if you can use it I have that for ya Brand new. Let me know.. Oh yeah here is my new e-mail purpleyotagirl@aol.com
I will call ya tomorrow after noon and give ya my new cell number.. <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

Dustin, I dont think you will need washers and nuts to go along with the bolts for the bellhousing. If you look at your tranny, you should see 2 holes that are threaded. If you look at your bellhousing you will see 2 more holes that are threaded. It has been a while, but I think this is correct.

my wardens front kit came with a spacer and a pilot bearing and a sleeve for the tranny input. I used all the same toyota clutch stuff except the disc (wardens can tell you what year and make to ask for when you go to the parts store to order, I think it was 1968 el camino, but Im not sure on that). as far as the bolts go, the metrics go into the bell housing (toyota) and the sae go into the tranny (chevy).

Another part you may consider would be a ring that fits around the large diamenter of the input shaft bearing retainer, where it bolts to the case. This ring makes up the differance between the larger diamenter in the bellhousing and the smaller diamenter of the retainer. I had rings made of the following dimensions. 1/4" thick with an ID of 4.680", OD of 5.038". Heated them up with a torch, dropped them over the retainer and let them cool in place for a tight fit. The cost of the rings were $30.00 and I felt that was a small price to pay to keep a good alignment between the trans and bellhousing. And the pilot bearing will last longer. Another benifit is since the bolt pattern between the trans and bellhousing is not exact (metric vs American) you can slightly enlarge the holes in the top of the transmission and the bottom of the bellhousing for better installation of the bolts.
Another idea. Since you will now have two extra metric bolts, cut off the heads, slot the top with hacksaw. Screw these into the top of the bellhousing. This will make the installation of the trans much easier. After its mated replace the modified bolt with the regular one.
Mike

[ 09-26-2001: Message edited by: flexing40 ]

Does the Warden's kit not include an indexing ring? Where did you have one made for $30?

how about a pilot bushing puller?!

The pilot bushing on the 2F is very deep into the crank and alot of times is very well seized in there.

Jeff

i guess in the worst case if a pilot puller won't do the trick (although i've pulled a few and never had a problem) you can always heat up the old bushing and then chip it out with a chisel; be careful not to gauge the crank!
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FeCamel asks Does the Warden's kit not include an indexing ring? Where did you have one made for $30? When I bought our front kits from Wardens an idexing ring was not included! Some people do not think it is necessary but I do. I think they are under the impression that the bolt pattern will hold everything in place. I think in the long run the ring is cheap insurance. Removing and replacing the trans/t-case assembly is a PIA.
I had the rings made up by Sven Rasmunson in Panther Valley. If you're interested call me @ 775-425-8611 or email me @ michael5d@aol.com
Mike

cutting it out with a torch is what I'm talking about! I know it sounds crazy, but a very well known cruiser guru once gave me this advice when all other options had failed, and as crazy as it sounds, its really fast and painless! Just gotta have a steady hand and a good eye.

Jeff

Yeah when Rusty B and I pulled the pilot bearing out of my FJ-55 we tried the "fill it with grease and whack it" method and I nded up having to get a pilot bearing puller and "customizing" the fingers to where they would grab the back of the bearing.

We banged on it for a couple of hours. I wish we had thought of the torch, Rusty is the MAN with a torch and it would have saved us a ton of grief.

As for the clutch disc, I got a 10 1/2" disc, it fit better than the 11" disc on my SM465 swap.