I've found a couple of top-loader steering Rockwell 2.5 axles that I am considering to upgrade my K30. That would make those >48" x 20" tires a cinch. :eek:

So, I don't know anything about Rockwells and I have a few questions. (I've only seen pictures of these things)

1) Pictures look like these things are left side diffs. Are all 2.5s?
2) Can the gear reduction (or 3rd member) be rotated to put the flange (more-or-less) in the center. Looks like it may be possible but I have *never* actually put my hands on a R2.5 before so I'm only going on what I see. Looks basically symmetrical so I thought I would ask. I seriously doubt it but, you don't know if you don't ask (at least when you can't look at them in person). Otherwise it is going to be a pain doing the rear.
3) Detroits, how much $$, how hard to install (carrier or like a C14), and where to find...
4) I saw another thread where a guy asked about lift to clear the reduction in the front but I didn't see a clear answer. I want to keep my lift minimal, who cares about the body.
5) What sort of things should I be concerned about that I might not (almost certainly don't) know about.
6) I expect *if* I do this, I will go with pinion brake (more clearance issues). However, I saw another post where a guy mentioned potential issues with a wheel hanging out in the air. Is there a problem?

Thanks for any advise...

Yes top loader is on the left. yes it can be rotated to put the driveshaft in the center.You will have to redrill some of the holes for the studs which hold the center section down. You will have also have to notch the housing to clear the gear...(if you look inside one you will understand)...detroits run from the in the high 4's to the mid 5's depending on where you find one..The locker i believe fits inside the existing carrier which is a two piece carrier(..Heck just weld it up and run hydro steering).. clearence can be an issue..you will simply have to check it out..The top loader is about 6 inches taller than a 60 center section and larger in size..may have to emply bumpstomps...and pinion brake....well everyone I have ever seen worked pretty good..and one last thing.if you buy some make sure to pull an axle and make sure it is the u-joint style...if it is the older rezepa or bendix style( ball joint looking u-joint similar to a birfield) axleshaft you will be wasting your time.The u-joint style began being used in the late 60's(68 ish to present). hope this helps..:D

Thanks for the info. I've always admired the R2.5s but it was always in the category of, "that's cool but too much $$ and trouble for what I need." You would think D60/C14@4.56 would be good enough wouldn't you? :D But, this looks like it might be a good deal and it would help with fitting some of those cheap 48(+) x 20 tires/rims (plus give the strength to stand up to them!).

Anyway, I'm checking on the joints. I remember hearing about that but I had forgotten about them. Like I said, never really paid much attention since I wasn't really planning such an upgrade...

Thanks.

You have a chevy the front axle is already correct pinion placement as you read the rear can be redrillled

Do you mean that the Rockwells are passenger side diff? The pics I saw (of the ones for sale) show the diff on the driver's side and so is your Dodge.

If I do this, I will definitely be in touch about the lockers. I don't mind welding the rear so much but I definitely do not want to weld the front.

the detroit locker # is 2255-15. i bought mine through drivetrain warehouse for around $380 apiece. i talked to mitch there...i simply played randy's r&p with the warehouse and Drivetrain warehouse won the auction, ofcoures i bought two from them. go ahead and buy the axles no matter what u-joint you have...that is if you have a good deal on them. if, and that is a big if, you break them you can always buy the u-joint style axle and change the seal and your set.

daniel, i went to your sight and am very interested in seeing the bracket you made to mount the caliper to the housing of the axle. trucks looks real good!!

Well, like I said, I don't know much about the Rockwells but $1250 (delivered) for 2 complete top-loading steering axles seems good. I'm am a little reluctant to shell out that kind of cash based on a couple of photos though. Still checking on the joint type. With the pinion brakes and Detroit's that will put me just over $2k into the pair. Then of course, there is the matter of steering (front and rear), mounting, converting to driver's side drop, etc... :eek:

Can someone explain to me how two calipers from a small car can stop a huge truck? Am I missing some mathematical equation due to the fact that the caliper is on the drive shaft instead of the wheel? Thanks!!

BTW Don't forget the $$$ from the sale of your current axles!! :)

Gear multiplication gives it roughly 6.5 times the stopping force that it would have at the wheel.

to get those prices just call places and tell them the part # i posted above. i found that the retailers were all to willing to undercut the competition. i went with drivetrain warehouse b/c they were the cheapest price and have an uncondtional warranty...basicly no questions asked.

i also did some research and found that mile-marker has started to produce the Selectro lock out for the 2.5 ton rockwell axles. the Selectro style is the old stlyle found on old dodges and willys that turn the entire lock out hub. they can be purchased at any Auto Zone (they seem to be mile markers main distributor). i don't have the part # on me but i have written down at home. if anyone is interested i'll post it. i can't remember the price but i know it was high....about $300 for lock-outs.

Originally posted by kaiserm715
...the Selectro style is the old stlyle found on old dodges and willys that turn the entire lock out hub...

Sounds like a 2-handed operation. :D

Sounds good if the (relative) strength of these is as good as it is on the smaller axles. The Selectros were one of the few parts I never broke on my old D44.

Pete

Daniel

More details on the disk brake kit. How does the bracket attach and how much? Please E-mail reply

Todd

I asked this on another thread, but didn't get any replies:

"Is heat buildup in the disk an issue with these setups? It seems it would be, since you're using a single 1/2 ton rotor on a truck that would usually have two 1 ton rotors."

I understand that the brakes would be strong enough with the reduction, but don't see how they wouldn't overheat the rotor.

Pete

Handy info on axle weights in lbs

Dana 60 front 510
14 bolt rear 480
Front rockwell w/brakes 890
Rear rockwell w/brakes 700
Rockwell brakes 200
10 bolt front 390
Dana 60 rear 300

I recently shaved a set of rockwell axles to within 1/4" of the ground clearance of a Dana 44 (no shit!!) Hope to have pictures soon to post.

Todd

Where are you getting 2.5 Rockwells for $1250 for a PAIR of STEERING axles?

Hey, USA6x6, is that swmudrats truck running the axles full width, or did he turn the hubs around to narrow it?

I am working on a set for my 79 bronco and i was looking in an old mag. and they said that it took a little bit of lathe work on the front hud to turn it around. I have been looking at it i cann't seem to find out were you would need to do that.

Originally posted by kaiserm715
the detroit locker # is 2255-15. i bought mine through drivetrain warehouse for around $380 apiece. i talked to mitch there...i simply played randy's r&p with the warehouse and Drivetrain warehouse won the auction, ofcoures i bought two from them. go ahead and buy the axles no matter what u-joint you have...that is if you have a good deal on them. if, and that is a big if, you break them you can always buy the u-joint style axle and change the seal and your set.

daniel, i went to your sight and am very interested in seeing the bracket you made to mount the caliper to the housing of the axle. trucks looks real good!!

Does anyone have a picture of the U-joint in a Rockwell and what size do you think it is? Is it a Dana 60 size?

Originally posted by Daniel
[Yup I do I Jess tells me its a 1710 timken sorry you cant see it in the pics yet but its there and I challenge Stan the owner to break it!
Does anyone have a picture of the U-joint in a Rockwell and what size do you think it is? Is it a Dana 60 size? [/B][/QUOTE]

That is a 1710 Wheel Joint? That thing is pretty damn big then.

the u-joints are 5" across with 1 5/8" caps and their size falls somewhere between a 1510 and 1550 Spicer. I have a picture of a 2 1/2 ton and a 60 but i can't put it on here.

I only paid $250 each for my fronts and $100 for a couple of rears and the guy thru in an extra rear and an almost complete front .

Originally posted by Daniel
your right they do overheat... so buy the high dollar pads and the problem goes away...

How do high dollar pads keep warping the crap out of the rotor? You're effectively trying to dissipate the same amount of heat with 1/4 the metal.

Pete

Hmm, interesting. I'm assuming you're talking about the 6x6? And only the front rotor turning blue? Seems the rear brakes wouldn't be working particularly hard on that truck. What about dual pinion brakes (one on front of axle, one on back)? Or is it just not that big a deal.

Pete

Originally posted by Daniel
Cmon I sell aset for 1400 complete..


Hmm, maybe this is not the screaming deal I thought it was... $1250 does include shipping so I guess that does make it better but still, if the deal is no better than that, I have other higher priority mods in need of some $$$.

Thanks for all the great info.

how about r/p kits? I have a line on a pair for under $500 but 6.90 is a touch too low of gearing for me......I would be interested in maybe 5.30 or 5.60.........who sells 'em and how much? would whoever it is slide me a deal if I bought matching detroits f/r?

As far as I know, there are no other gear sets available for the R2.5

i think 6.72 is the only ratio avaliable. if its to low you need bigger tires