i have a 86 blazer with the usual rusted spots. But the rocker panels are pretty bad. I want to cut them out and replace them. I saw in the JCWhitney mag that I can order replacements. But there is like 3 different kind.. Has any one ordered one from them? I can weld and like the look of the truck in stock form. But I am up to upgrading to armored rocker panels. Any one have any pics of the panels that they have covered with some type of armor. I prefer it to look nice. I dont have any rocks around where i live so dont have to be super heavy duty just enough to cover over the rusted holes. I will be cutting out all the rust and repainting it so the rust does not return or get worst.

you could use square tube like they do here (http://www.off-road.com/chevy/tech/knocker), it might not be pretty enough though....

Some of the parts that JC offers dont really fit right, now all aftermarket/non OEM-NOS require some trimming. I would go with Goodmark industries or Year Ones stuff. I have a pass. quarter I have yet to install on my K5. So far its a pretty good fit with a little trimming needed. Just doubt I will ever put it on.

i have some GM pieces, they fit really good on my '72, no modifications.

I did the 2x2 square 11 ga under my doors and didnt have any problems, they worked really well.

Originally posted by k5chevyblazer
I did the 2x2 square 11 ga under my doors and didnt have any problems, they worked really well.

got any pics of how theyre mounted?

I did mine similar to the Blazer on OFFROAD.com other then I use 2x4x.25 square tube instead of 3inch. Also. I only cut from the bottom edge of the door down, and from the cab support out.(only cut the rocker panel and fender)
I first cut the rocker, then put the tube up against the cab support and made it parallel to the rocker, then welded it to the remaining rocker, the cab support, and also to the Fender. (you end up cutting the bottom fender bolt out) I chose to weld the fender rather then let it flop around. I then had it painted like the rest of the truck.
Doing it this way doesnt give you as much clearance, but it does protect the door some, about an inch or so. Here is a link to a picture, not a close up but you can see itPic (http://community.webshots.com/photo/73480555/84165049MYTaap)

The square tube is the best fix that I have seen. I am gonna do somethig similar on my rusted ScoutII. The nice thing is, you dont have a set of slider hanging down, and messing with you ground clearance;)

It also seems like most of the rocksliders that are connected to the frame, rather then the cab, seem to get bent up. Welding it to the cab does put alot of stress on the body mount bolts when they get hit, but I just used higher grade bolts to help that. I have hit them pretty hard(not on purpose) and got out to look at it, thinking that I probably busted everything to shit, but its held up nicely. It also seems that the body would flex differently then the sliders that are connected to the frame, not a big deal, but just something to consider.

Originally posted by Blazr77400
It also seems like most of the rocksliders that are connected to the frame, rather then the cab, seem to get bent up. Welding it to the cab does put alot of stress on the body mount bolts when they get hit, but I just used higher grade bolts to help that. I have hit them pretty hard(not on purpose) and got out to look at it, thinking that I probably busted everything to shit, but its held up nicely. It also seems that the body would flex differently then the sliders that are connected to the frame, not a big deal, but just something to consider. Your body mount bolts have more stress on them when you get frame twist.

Are you just saying that the bolts have more stress on them when the frame twists as compared to hitting the rocksliders that are connected to the cab?:confused:

i wouldn't see a problem with the sliders on the cab. if you can rip those bolts out, ou must be doing some hardcore shit. besides, unless you're jumping your truck into a rock garden, and expect to get the cab wedged between 2 big rocks, i dont really see the problem. you don't really drop on them that often, most of it is leaning into something, or catching em going over something.

I think the only thing to add, for a truck anyway, is some supports to the inside rear body mounts. I added some U brackets along the crossmember to help a little and also a brace from the rear outside of the cab. I dont think a blazer would need these. And one more thing, on a truck you cant get the bolts out unless you cut a hole from inside the cab. I had to do it because both of the cage nuts broke while I was changing body mounts.

About to start the cutting. Man i wish i had a plasma cutter. The inner rocker panel is toast so i have to cut it out as well. Dont know what Im getting into but got to start some time. What wire did you use to weld the tube in with? I have .035 flux and .030 steel with argon.

i'd use some .035 hardwire with argon/co2 mix.... least if i remember correct thats the gas mix....

Wheres Mobtown?

its normal name is Mobile, AL. but its Mobtown to the punk scene.

I live in Bay Minette. I call it a shit hole. Not a punk so cannt give it a name.

Thats cool man, you ever ride down this way? are there any good trails up that way?

Originally posted by Blazr77400
Are you just saying that the bolts have more stress on them when the frame twists as compared to hitting the rocksliders that are connected to the cab?:confused: Yes thats what I am saying. Frame twist is a constant force and smacking your slider is only momentary. Having said that, I have seen sliders ripped off of the frame before, so it does happen.;)

Got an air nibler from harbor freight today. Man that thing tore though the rocker panels light butter. And it cost less then the saw blades and grinding stones i was gonna use.


There is nowhere to ride in bay minette. I use to have a hunting club that would let me go and tear up the roads during summer but the guy who owned it sold it and now there is gates every where.

Got some metal from a air conditioner installer and made me new rockers. It was 40" x 9", i bent it with 4" on one side and 5 on the other. I bent it 180 degrees then drilled some holes 3/4 inch from the bent edge. then welded it together there to match the edge at bottom of old panels i cut off. Then i pounded a piece of pipe in to give it the contour of the old rocker. I welded it back on and i think noone would tell it was not factory stock. Cost 7.99 for the welding wire and 10 minutes up at the a/c place getting the metal and having them bend it for me. (cause they have a sweet metal break) Seeing it was scrap and they were going to toss it in garbage anyhow. I would post pic but dont know how.

send em to me (email button below) and i'll post em up for ya...

pics are up...

http://www.skinheads.net/~laststand/rockers/Picture 008.jpg
http://www.skinheads.net/~laststand/rockers/Picture 010.jpg
http://www.skinheads.net/~laststand/rockers/Picture 012.jpg
http://www.skinheads.net/~laststand/rockers/Picture 014.jpg
http://www.skinheads.net/~laststand/rockers/Picture 021.jpg
http://www.skinheads.net/~laststand/rockers/Picture 022.jpg

Thanks for posting those for me. I rubber coated the rockers and then painted over it. Thats only reason not perfectly smooth. After i welded them up i ground welds down then bondo'd the imperfections till it was smooth. It was too easy for me, but with out a mig welder it could still be done with pop riviets. Just would not look stock.

I'm diggin the hub caps! :cool:

Yeah the lug nuts are shy.:D

A pic of some nice rockerbox replacement's