: Cutting an output shaft


RockRanger
12-08-2001, 04:51 PM
I want to cut down the rear out put on my spare transfer case and play with makeing a doubler out of it. Can I just clamp it in my chop saw and start cutting at it or does he need to be de tempered or anything? Also is it possible to have it turned down and new splines machined into it? any isea on who whould do it.

Matt

1uglyranger
12-08-2001, 08:03 PM
I wanna know too....
BTT!

RockRanger
12-09-2001, 07:57 PM
BTT Come on what you guys has to know this.

Matt

66CJdean
12-09-2001, 08:11 PM
Yes you can do that but don't cut it all at once so you don't build up to much heat.

1uglyranger
12-09-2001, 09:25 PM
Is there a better way??

RockRanger
12-09-2001, 09:38 PM
Originally posted by 1uglyranger
Is there a better way??

Im guessing a band saw may work better cause i would think it produces less heat. I have is a chop saw so I will cut a little let it cool cut some more etc.

Matt

Berg
12-10-2001, 07:38 AM
This might help..........in the AA catalog (nv4500 page 11)they show how to cut a rear mainshaft on a NV 4500.
(quote)
"The prodedure can be done with a high speed cut off disc or metal abrasive cutof saw. ..........once the outer surface has been penetrated, the inner core of the shaft cna be cut with a regular hacksaw."

There are some pics associated to the paragraph also. You can download the catalog from their site.

Bigguy
12-10-2001, 08:02 AM
I did the NV4500 cut off. Use the high speed cut off tool, take your time and cut as much as possible, changing cut off blades if you have to. Using the hacksaw wasn't fun and made little progress. I was able to cut all but about 1/4" in the middle with the cut off tool and used a hacksaw on the rest.

GOAT1
12-10-2001, 08:52 AM
Just clamp it in your chop saw and hack it off. You will probably temper the end but only about a 1/4" from the end and thats not going to hurt anything. Turning it down and cutting new splines is tricky, to do it right you will have to re-heat treat it after the work is done. The problem is that you usually don't know what material the part is made of and you have to know that when you heat treat the part. Also, all of the critical bearing diameters are ground after heat treating to insure dimensional accuracy, when you re-heat treat that part, those ground dimension will likely change. For the trouble and expense of doing this, it would be worth just buying the part from someone that makes it such as advanced adapters (if someone makes it at all).

RockRanger
12-10-2001, 11:59 AM
No one makes this part at all. Right now the only option is an atlas and I dont have 2k for one of them Im just looking at options right now to see what is available to do. Thanks for the responces.

Matt

71RCKCRZR RYAN
12-10-2001, 12:35 PM
TRY CALLING MOSER.......I THINK THEY DO CUSTOM ISH LIKE THAT ....IN ONES OR TWOS.......

BlueYJ
12-10-2001, 02:37 PM
sh&t, just get the hand grinder, throw a piece of tape around it so you grind strait a grind your a$$ off. I have done 5 this way none have ever broken, blewup or bent.

:cool2:

MattS
12-10-2001, 02:46 PM
Just use the chop saw and take it slow and easy. I did mine and no problems. The hacksaw is a joke. I also tried a sawsall and after 4 blades getting mauled I when back to the cutoff wheel. :)

Keith
12-10-2001, 07:34 PM
come awn man, just cut the damn thing!