anyone know how much this cost? Looks spendy but bombproof

http://www.sunrayengineering.com/main.html

-ben

I sent them a E-mail asking for some more info. I hope they drop in and say hello. :D

I have also asked some question...looking for their reply.
though its looks a tuff axle, if the price is reasonable then it may be a nice cost effective solution because a pair of exle shaft; CV and gear ratio cost pretty much...specialy exporting it out of us.

I think they quoted ~5K an end when she met them in NM. Not sure what it ended up being, but Carey(TuffD90) is on this board from time to time.

Tis

KC and Bill are doing similar stuff and their prices are pretty reasonable.

Matt at Rockware does tons of axle swaps for vehicles in Colorado Springs, if people are looking to have someone do it for them. Pikes Peak Rovers (719) 636-3888 is a good place to get rover parts at (used or new) for what it is worth. What kind of price are the people you listed asking for to do custom axle work (out of curiosity only)???

Lance Gilbert here with Sunray Engineering. Alot of people have been inquiring about the big stuff for their Rovers. Carey seems to like hers and they were very custom. If you are set up like she is then its relativly easy to do. She did Detroits but we recently swaped in an ARB in the front. A front with a detroit is around 6300.00 a rear is around 3300.00 Thats all the bells and whistles, we have cheaper options. Any one that wants specific info let me know. We also added some wheel base to that thing and got her some hydro steering all at the same time. Ill see if I can round her up and she can tell you what she thinks.
Lance

Dynatrac (http://www.dynatrac.com/index.html) offers a nice setup for front and rear in their prorock 60 series of axles (dana 60s setup for rockcrawling). They are a bit costly at 12k for the front and rear conversion for a Discovery 1. But you wind up with a extremely tough setup Thats very hard to break on the trail and your repair and maintenance costs are half what it is for land rover stuff. Plus you have the advantage of being able to use a differnt lug patern so wheel and tire options are alot better.

Seeing that I have 3 older broncos sitting in my yard All of them with good Ford 9inch rearends with 456 gears with Detroits in them. I will at some point look into having someone convert the housings for use in my 98 Disco. But thats at least a year or two down the road and I have lots of other things to do before that happends. Regards Nutter

There are other options out there than spending over 10,000 on axles. KC at Never Summer is throwing a set of 9inchers under the Defender at much less than these guys are talking about and the systems are very similar. You get the keep the rover bolt pattern as well. Seems like a far better option.

The lug patern choice is standard with any custom axles so if you wanted to go with a Land Rover pattern you could. And yes I agree 10k+ for custom work like this is way way to much. There is a guy local here who has told me he will beat that though we havnt talked prices. Speaking of never summer off road, I have left at least 4 msg at the number on the website and sent a email to the addie on the site and I havnt gotten a single call back or responce. I want to pick up a set of the external front shock mounts for my 98 disco. If someone could PM me with a working number or a good email or the best way to get in touch with them that would be great. Best Regards Nutter

Hi nutter,

They just moved from Texas to New Mexico and they have been going through the normal issues like new phones and trying to get everything situated. Try 505-281-5270 or ChevyK594@aol.com. They will get back to you. Just an FYI: in my search to replace the LR axles I called Currie and Dynatrac and both said that they COULD NOT go with the LR bolt pattern. Some kind of issue with the unusual wide distance of the pattern. That was one of the many reasons I went the direction I did, having just bought 5 new wheels.

KC and bill just got back from sohuill also so they have been away from the shop for a week or so. Call that number given or pm puffdragon on the board that's KC. His dallas number only works for voicemails right now so he can't actually pick it up. That's the shop number . He should get back to you pretty quickly once you call that number. He hasn't been able to update the website all that much yet but he's working on it.

back to the subject I think I'd rather spent money on FJ80 axles or KC's stuff seems to be more reasonable. I am not sure why people think that they need to spend 10k on an axle I know that people are running Fj80 axles with longfields with v-8s (chevy not LR) and 42s and aren't breaking anything and are hammerring the shit out of it. With a rig that is actually heavier than mine so I don't see the point of spending that kind of money. Oh well just thought maybe someone was actually making something reasonable but guess not. Pipe dream as usual.

-ben

The long arm stuff is very strong and if you pay attention to how you are tuning the wheels as you apply the go juice you can be fine, but, the 8in r+p will explode on you. I just got rid of it before I put any money in it.

Hi guys, well I did not want to hijack a post untill we were brought up. And in fact, I will still keep it nice and simple.

we offer front and rear 9" axles in several configurations, including 31,35,40 spline shafts, and either rover swivels, with upgraded cv's, or full on 60 outers, however we maintain all rover hubs and braking components.

we also offer 60's and 70's

the 9" axles are competitive with other shops if not a bit cheaper.

And if you have any contact issues with our shop, please call

505-281-5270 and leave a message.

we are rapping up a move, so things are busy around here.

If your in the dallas area, give sunray a call. Otherwise let us know if you have any HD axle need's

Anybody want MOG portals under their rover.

I wish I knew how you guys break this stuff! I only seem to break little stuff, steering arms, or, it is due to pilot error:flipoff2:

Must be running something other than a 3.9, or a very modified 3.9. Then, longevity of the engine becomes an issue. Yeah, I know-Bill has the TD3, yes, I'm jealous, envious, etc.

The failures of Rover axles I've seen have universally been tied to poor maintenance. I beat my truck far worse than I should for something I still owe way too much on, and must rely upon it to get me home and to work Monday morning.

Buckon37s: Thanx for the updated info.

KC expect to hear from me sometime next week when I can get the time to call about getting some front external shock mounts for my 98 disco. Thanx Nutter

Paul, you mean I can't buy a 150K mile truck with no maintenance record, slap on 32" swampers and then go bounce on rock ledges with the stock open diffs and not expect either it or the 10 spline axles to hold?!

WTF man?! This stuff is weak! :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :p

paul
seems that you have to use it, to break it .
may be you should try it?
marc

I like what KC and Bill have done with the 9" but I'm still s big Dana 60 fan... My solution is to drop in a coiler Sals in with big spindles and 35 spline axles... Shave an inch off and it's pretty darn close to clearance that was had with the Rover diff....
The housing is pretty cheap and the rest of the components just add up like anything else... And it's still "pretty much" Rover for what it's worth... Bolts into a Disco...
My 109? Leaf, Sals with 14 bolt spindles bolted on, 35 spline Mosers, spool 13 GM discs and GM 3/4 calipers. The front Dana 60 has 35 splines all the way out and the same brakes with a Detroit.... Nope I still haven't seen the light of coil springs unless they're on Coilovers...

Keith

I am very happy with my axle swap. It was $11,000 and that was turn key. Drop the 90 off and pick up a 94, I now sit at a 94" wheel base and 80" inches wide. I can run a Rover bolt pattern or jeep. I can buy my beed locks from Pro Comp with Rover bolt patterns for the same price as Jeep wheels. Which I like because it keeps it looking like a Rover. I also have hydro steering which is really nice since I have bad shoulders. I now run 37"s so I have more clearance. I have cut my fenders away so if I decide I can actually run 39's. Since I did the conversion I have made a lot of changes. The truck is almost ready to go back on the trail.
All I can say is it's well worth the money to do the conversion once and do it right rather than changing out axles on a trail. I also like that the 9" housing is smaller and lighter than the 60. I have "NO" complaints and I know it will pay for itself in the long run!
Thats my 50 cents, I will post pics of it when it's finished if I can figure out how too.

Originally posted by revor

My 109? Leaf, Sals with 14 bolt spindles bolted on, 35 spline Mosers, spool 13 GM discs and GM 3/4 calipers. The front Dana 60 has 35 splines all the way out and the same brakes with a Detroit.... Nope I still haven't seen the light of coil springs unless they're on Coilovers...

Keith

Aloha Keith,
I would love to know the details on your axles.
I am currently running a leaf sals rear and leaf rover front.
I have a coil sals front and rear that I am going to be installing using arbs, discs on all four, and 4.1 gears. But other then the ARB and R&P its all Rover bits.
Feel free to contact me direct if you want to take it offline.
hope_peter AT bah DOT com
Pete

Tuff, have you measured a few d-90's They are stock at about 93" wheel base. So they really didnt do anything if you only have 94" now. Aside from that, good job on ditching that rover crap.

Originally posted by Puffdragon
Hi guys, well I did not want to hijack a post untill we were brought up. And in fact, I will still keep it nice and simple.

we offer front and rear 9" axles in several configurations, including 31,35,40 spline shafts, and either rover swivels, with upgraded cv's, or full on 60 outers, however we maintain all rover hubs and braking components.



So can I get U joint outers with tone rings?

Originally posted by Old Scout


So can I get U joint outers with tone rings?

sorry, clarify tone rings.

Originally posted by Puffdragon


sorry, clarify tone rings.

Tone rings are used to excite the ABS sensor. LR Birfs have them on the bell. The upgrade to u-joints usually means the loss of the ABS system. I was hoping you had a way to keep it working.

Best idea i've had so far to retain the tone rings on a CV is to mill them into a bigger CV... Wait don't shoot!! since the ABS only cares about a difference in speed and not how many grooves it's possibtl keep them a bit farther apart... Still you loose strength... Make up for it by longfielding them... Mearly a compromise...

Originally posted by revor
Best idea i've had so far to retain the tone rings on a CV is to mill them into a bigger CV... Wait don't shoot!! since the ABS only cares about a difference in speed and not how many grooves it's possibtl keep them a bit farther apart... Still you loose strength... Make up for it by longfielding them... Mearly a compromise...

I want to get away from CVs !!! Did ya miss the u-joint parts?? And don't get me started on Bobby Long!

Eeh, if you change the groove count in the front, you have to do the same in the rear, don't you?

Now, with a bigger diameter bell, they WILL be more spaced out even with the same count.

You can get off the shelf 60 joint parts with abs rings I think. If not we can machine up a ring to maintain your precious ABS no problem.