Need to know everyones ideas on the long term fix for this... Heim joint was nixed as everyone said they needed rebuilding too often..

My general feeling, is that I dont want to simply put the same weak ass ears back on...

Please let me know what you think...

Drivers side shot 1...


http://66.54.161.206/pictures/rover/trailingear.jpg



Drivers side shot 2....


http://66.54.161.206/pictures/rover/trailingear2.jpg


Pass side...


http://66.54.161.206/pictures/rover/trailingear3.jpg

I did the same eaxct thing at the rally last year! I have some johnny jointed arms from rovertym. They are still in development, but give them a call and talk to steve.

Here are the joints/arms KC made for FrankenRover. They are super tough and the arms are BEEFY. It took two guys pushing on a 10 foot cheater bar and a JD2 bender to even touch the tubing (they are bent and braced for clearance).

Anyway they flex great, and give the rear-end full range of motion without binding.

The picture is taken on the ramp with the rear flexed just a wee bit! Hence the angle on the JJ.

Billster

ps. Not sure if these are avail. as a production item from NSO, so if interested, holler at KC.

ps2. Please excuse all the frame nubbin's in need of grinding. All that was cleaned up and painted.

ahh cool, i didnt know they were making those, I just thought they had the heim ones...

Billster,


Ya, i saw those on your truck and liked them alot. Im hoping to not have to lose my existing offset trailing arms, which are Rovertym. But maybe Untrakdrover can tell me if thats going to be the case with the Rovertym johnny joint one anyways..

Here is the whole trailing arm.

Billster

Just one more point Bill, Im not sure , but I dont think I have that outrigger corner on the frame that you do to mount that thing like that.... or if i do it may be in a fairly different place. Im going to have to check..

I think your extra 10" 's is how your able to do that... :D

I am not sure either. I think that you do need something like that for this mounting system to work. I always felt a little booty fabish using a welded on plate (welded onto just one surface of the frame) ala the SG heim jointed trailing arms. Although I bashed the crap outta them and they never failed (just ate up heim joints).

Billster

Those joints look like Johny Joints. You can find them at either Currie Enterprises or Rubicon Express.

They are usual known as Cartridge Joints, Johnny Joints or Spherical Joints. You pick :D

Justin

What I did was moved the ear up higher and further forward to get rid of the hang up point and to reduce the amount of rear antisquat.

Here is a link and I explain how I did it.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2049&highlight=rear+arms

And here are some pics of the end result. Very easy and cheap to do - all you need is some pipe, a grinder and a welder.

Sam

Another

Sam

Last one.

Sam

That looks like D110 outriggers on Billsters frame. The are pretty thin in stock form, so I think ýou could as well fab something up.

I my view, the primary concern with the stock ears is that they are so exposed. They actually look much, much beefier than the chassis outriggers, and have a much better attachment to the frame.

Sam's ears look the best, but I would extend the ear to where the frame is double skinned, or find another way to relieve point stresses on the thin frame material.

Btw, how did you manage to do that to the ears witout wrecking the frame rails, too?

I had some ears made up by my buddies at Warn, out of 3/8ths plate. Had them bend the bracket to adjust the angle of the bushing, and the holes were all laser cut. The coolest thing about this bracket is it accepts the factory RRC/Disco1/D90 suspension bushing so I have continuity between all the trucks. I am using a pair of them on the Serious One and those are welded to the frame.

I also had some trailing arms made out of the same tubing that they were making their XCL coilover kit with, again, the stock bushings are to be used on either end, they are just 8 inches longer than stock.

I had 2 sets of each made, the second set sits in the garage waiting for some adventurous soul to purchase them..... ;)

Well, a much less invasive, but not as strong a solution MAY be to run RockWares frame sliders.

They have a flare on the back that goes over the ear to protect it some from hits coming back along the frame, such as when you're dragging over a ledge. The badness just slides along and is directed underneath the frame ear. Also, if you drop directly down on the trailing arm mounting point, you hit the frame slider first.

I've had my whole rig balanced on the slider right over the trailing arm mount and it didn't move.

It's not as good a solution as torching the ears off and getting the mount up and out of the way, but it's a lot easier.

keith
:usa:

Rich,
Why don't you just run those Fancy Arse Joints that they had set-up in the Vendor area. They were rebuildable. When you start wheeling hard you'll need to replace the rubber bushings about every 2 years anyway. Might as well have the bling factor going on.

The only question I have about "Heim" jointed trailing arms is the road worthy-ness. Do they cause the truck to sway more due to their less resistance over rubber bushings?

Richard,
I sent you some PM about this problem. Maybe you can kill two birds with one stone.

JP

Mike, youre not on your way to Sweden anytime soon, by any chance? The ears and arms stuff is tempting, but shipping must be expensive...

Frame sliders from Matt wouldnt have helped me...

It happened from getting partway up a ledge and then having the tires slip and the truck come down (all 6000lbs) on those ears as it slides back down the ledge a tiny bit... The frame sliders would have simply bent as well.. They really only help and protect during forward movement in my opinion..


larry, he hasnt returned my emails yet, and also it still requires a decision / solution for the mount itself..


Slade, pics? price? :D


Sam, Where can you get those not on the frame? Or did you just cut yours off and move them..?




Pendy, trying to dream something up now to make that happen...

Originally posted by Richard Dekkard
Frame sliders from Matt wouldnt have helped me...

It happened from getting partway up a ledge and then having the tires slip and the truck come down (all 6000lbs) on those ears as it slides back down the ledge a tiny bit... The frame sliders would have simply bent as well.. They really only help and protect during forward movement in my opinion..


larry, he hasnt returned my emails yet, and also it still requires a decision / solution for the mount itself..


Slade, pics? price? :D


Sam, Where can you get those not on the frame? Or did you just cut yours off and move them..?




Pendy, trying to dream something up now to make that happen...

This is what I wrote in the other thread

------
Its very easy to relocate the lower chassis mounts (the ears) up higher and further forward. If you are running bigger tyres or any lift this is one of the first things I would do. It gets rid of the hang up point on the chassis (which is a big bonus) and reduces any hopping problems on steep climbs and reduces a lot of front tyre lifting as well.

All you got to do is firstly weld some scrap steel from the chassis to the rear axle on both sides both forwards and backwards so that the rear axle carnt move when you pull the lower links.

Remove the lower links, remove the triangular rubber chassis mount bush. Cut the ear off the chassis in a vertical line straight down the side of the chassis (dont cut around the corner below the chassis at this point. You just want to end up with a totally flat cut so that the bracket can be welded onto a flat surface) Then cut off the rest of the bracket still welded to the bottom of the chassis.

Now to make the arms - get some thick walled pipe that has an ID that is a bit bigger than the OD of the arms. Cut the pipe to whatever length you want the arms (like 1000mm or 1200mm or whatever). Cut your old arms in half, poke each end into the new pipe and weld them (also good to through in some plug welds along the length as well.

Mount the new arms back on the diff. Put the trianglar bushes back into the ear brackets. Put the ear brackets back onto the arms. lift the ears and arms up till they are on the side of the chassis, clean all the paint and goo off where you got to weld. Tack weld the ears onto the chassis, pull the arms off and the triangular bushes weld the ears on, paint it if you are keen, put everything back together and then cut off the pieces of steel that held the axle in place and you are good to go.

I wouldnt worry about the upper A frame at all for the moment. Extended lowers work very well.
--------

So I used my old ears which will be a problem for you cause yours are so beat up. Mine were also beat up fairly bad and was going to straighten them and then use new bushes but I couldnt straighten them at all so I juat welded them on bent and used the old bent bushes. (this is not a daily driver)

Sam

Something you have got to keep in mind is that replacement ears are going to be difficult to weld on because you cannot turn the truck upside down to do the work. Well maybe you could but I bet you would rather not. Having welded on replacement outriggers and dealed with this problem on other trucks I speak from experience. I know what I would do to fix the problem. It has to be planned out not rushed into.

JP

Originally posted by pendy
Something you have got to keep in mind is that replacement ears are going to be difficult to weld on because you cannot turn the truck upside down to do the work. Well maybe you could but I bet you would rather not. Having welded on replacement outriggers and dealed with this problem on other trucks I speak from experience. I know what I would do to fix the problem. It has to be planned out not rushed into.

JP

I dont have any problems welding upside down. Do it all the time. You just have to gear up with two gloves and a leather welding jacket. Welding the ears back on I wouldnt have even got underneith it at all - can do it all from the side. It would have been one welding glove only

Sam