What do you think? It isn't mine but I thought it was cool. <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">
<IMG width=504 height=356 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/28_FamCg402.jpg">

<IMG width=344 height=481 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/22_RollCage2.jpg">

definitely a couple of hours in that project!!
Nice work <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">

That's the Up n' Over full cage and it is SWEET, but when you take into account that they want $1995 for that cage that still has to be put together and painted or powdercoated ,I think you can do better. I took that exact picture to my local drag shop and they quoted 500 for it and another 55 to have it coated. A pretty big savings.

HTH's

Shane

$2000 bones??? That's insane in the membrane!

Jeff

Wow I had no idea they wanted 2K for that. Someone is <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"> smokin' crack. <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"> nice cage but too mucho dinero! Where could I get something like this done in the Sacramento area? (Calif)
p.s. web links are appreciated
doug <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">

Email Lance...the Web Daddy. His ARCA partner Bob Roggy is an AWESOME tube bender and I think he is near Sacramento.He built Jeremy Fisher's ARCA cruiser and it is mucho fino.

Check out my pics in the album below. It is the green Cruiser in my ARCA album.

Someone should have said "step away from the bender." 2K is some cash also.

[ 10-04-2001: Message edited by: fatkid ]

NICE CAGE............

I BET ALL THOSE CURLY PIECES OF TUBING MAKE IT A LOT STRONGER.......ESPECIALLY WHEN THEY GO UNDER THE DASH HORIZONTILLY.....

NICE WORK THOUGH..............

looks a little bit like a BTB cage at first glance; they're even prouder ($) of their's. for 2K you can have bob build you a kick-ass cage and buy a set of tires and.......
<IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">

2000 is not that high for a cage with that much work in it > if you think that it's high , try buying a bender then learn how to use it and see how much material cost ..
the front s curved bars scare me straight is strong , curved is weak i wouldnt want to be in that during a hard end over roll . it looks cool but the reason you build a cage is to save ones life .. unless your a poser and just drive it to grab a cup of coffee <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

In your opinion how much is alot for a cage?

the front curved bars hook into the door pillars. i've seen two roll over with that cage and one guy crashed doing 65 on the highway and rolled 3 times and the cage was alright.

they are expensive but there is only 2 people in the shop and everything they do is pretty much one off custom work.(i worked there part time for around 3 years)

dave

Originally posted by fatkid:
<STRONG>In your opinion how much is alot for a cage?</STRONG>

fatkid that is alot for a cage ...
if you were to ad up the hours that went into that cage the labor would ad up quick is all i am saying ..
i could build that cage for less how much less dont know maybe 500 bucks less .
the point being , the average guy that goes into a shop is going to pay time and materials that cage has a lot of work in it . is it high i think so because i build cages , would i charge that much no .
it's just funny how some of these guys have no clue what goes into custom fabrication
so to end this yes i think it's high ...
but if you cant do it your self or have a friend with a bender then yes it's still high but in the ballpark of what custom work goes for ..

Originally posted by davefj40:
<STRONG>the front curved bars hook into the door pillars. i've seen two roll over with that cage and one guy crashed doing 65 on the highway and rolled 3 times and the cage was alright.

they are expensive but there is only 2 people in the shop and everything they do is pretty much one off custom work.(i worked there part time for around 3 years)

dave</STRONG>

crashed at 65 ,three rollovers and the cage is fine ,, no offence but i call hogwash post some pix ...
i understand you sticking up for friends that own the shop but i want pix of it surviving a high speed multi roll over ..
fact is straight is stronger than a piece with those big s curves ..i have seen cages that hook into the a pillar they were not the first to do that i believe butch lewis was the first and theirs is a copy of that design maybe not a direct copy but a copy none the less the a pillar is a very good tie point for a cage they appear to do very nice work although i have never seen it in person .. that cage looks great i just dont think s curved front bars are as strong ..
the design overall will work in a roll because the rear double hoop will take up most of the force but if the front of the cage were hit hard first who knows ..

sorry, i meant alright as in it did it's job. nothing on a fj is gonna look good after three rolls on the highway.

i agree that straight bars are stronger. no question. this design is to free up the floor for the driver, i'm sure there are good and bad points to every design. i don't build cages myself but i had one of these and it seemed really strong in my fj-40, but i never rolled mine.

there prices are high, even if you work there like i did but they do have good quality stuff. i'm getting a front bumper for my 60 built right now because i don't have the equipment to do it at home or the garage to do it in (hopefully in spring that will be built, with radiant floor heating). they are basically a landcruiser shop for people who can't do there own work, that's why most people on this board can and will do it cheaper. factor in all the beer and labor you do at home and add a markup for overhead and the price wont seem that bad (at least with the amount of beer me and my friends drink)

dave <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">

[ 10-05-2001: Message edited by: davefj40 ]

Sorry guys, But I think it's <IMG SRC="smilies/rainbow.gif" border="0">

I do however understand you have to give the customer what they want MOST OF THE TIME, but when it comes to cage work you to put your foot down sometimes....

I myself, wouldn't take the chance with liabilty on that cage....IMO.


you and I are in the same boat on this one FJ JUNK.

2 k sounds like alot, but does that include install? paint?

Tin Bender,

That was the price I was quoted over the phone for the cage alone. It was then shipped out in three main pieces without paint and spreaders and you had to have it welded together, then have it painted, then installed. Man that is alot of work for a 2k cage.

<IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">
DAYYYYUUUUMMMMMMMM!!!!!!
I'm not try'n sell stuff, but I a cage "like" that @ our shop, install'd would be $1200/1500....

there asking 2k for it shipped then you have to intall it? things have changed there in the last year and a half. i helped bend a couple and fit them/remove/paint/install again and i think they were 1500 when i was there but that was finished in the vehicle. i would say 2k then you have alot of work left is way too much.

dave

I am in the process of building my cage now. I bought the jd2 bender,2''die,and a tube notcher. that ran me about $750 w/shipping give or take a little. I bought 130' of DOM .120 wall 2''tube at about $2.30/ft. All of that has me out for about $1000. I havent kept up with the time spent on the cage but I could probably say over 20 hours. A lot of this time can be counted as a learning process though. I have the rear portion of the cage all tacked in place and have started on the front part. I still have to add gussets,complete all of the welds,pull the cage back out and prep and paint it. I have done 99% of the work with no help at all and expect to burn another 20 hours or so in completing it. I may have been able to get one built for around $1200 or so but I never checked. I'd rather do this stuff myself. In the end, I still have the bender,notcher, and experience to do other cages as they come. I would say that if you have some fab skills and equip to do it,buy the bender and go for it.

are you bending the pipe manually with the JD3? i was looking at that website the other day. how do you like the bender?

dave

Yes, it is the model 3 bender. I have only made about 12 bends so far but it seems to do fine.If you buy one, make sure to get the degree ring with it. Also, when you make the handle for it, use at least 6' of tubing. The 2''can be a little tough to bend.

first let me say i have never rolled anything. i am a newbie. but if you roll hard and put the pig on its top you can have the best rollcage money can buy but if it's improperly anchored you could be in serious trouble. with a bad ass cage like that i would have put the rear members over the frame not bolted the the fender. my fenders have been torn apart due to the roll bar flexing over the last 30 years. <IMG SRC="smilies/fj.gif" border="0">

I have an Up and Bend Over cage in my truck now. It works but is a little "Pretty" for my tastes. I also have all of the pre-bent tubing for an Alston Racing cage waiting for me to notch and weld it this winter.
The Up and Bend Over cage was a gift from a friend after he had Alston build him a cage.
The Alston cage is way stronger and is about $350-550 depending on how much tubing you want. This is ready to ship. You need to notch and weld. Alston is well known in the racing community and builds 180 MPH + walk away and say "damn that sucks and where is my chiroprachter" cages.

I scraped ALL of the paint off mt Up-N-Over cage with a putty knife and it came off in sheets! This is paint they told my buddy would stand up to any abuse! The elec. tape he had holding his CB wires to the cage removed great sheets of paint when we removed it :=(

YMHO Cory

that cage is <IMG SRC="smilies/rainbow.gif" border="0">
I wouldn't run it, if you gave it to me for free. One endo, and it would be FLAT. It might be pretty for a pavement pounder, but if you like to GET IT, don't go there.
My Land Cruiser has been in two National Rock Crawling competitions in the past 4 weeks. It has been rolled 6 times in the past 4 weeks, and none were simple flops on the side. They were head jarring, full rolls. Hell in one of the rolls I got knocked out (my head hit the ground as I rolled <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> ). My cage is still straight. Don't fawk around with posuer cages. And for
God's sake if you're building your own cage (which I sure wouldn't do) make SURE you get some second opinons on your design from professionals. Design is everything to surviving a HARD roll.

oh yeah, NI733HM, if you want a REAL cage, check out http://www.roggyenterprises.com

How do you really feel Lance? <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">

I agree - that front section is just plain baaaaddd <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by DRM:
<STRONG>How do you really feel Lance? <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">

I agree - that front section is just plain baaaaddd <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

[ 10-14-2001: Message edited by: Lance ]

Thanks for the input and the link.

Doug

Actually, the font section will hold up to a strong roll.
The Alston boys (experts) say the section it is tied into is strong enough if not rusted.
They were concerned about protection for your feet and lower legs. Crawlers may not see the need but these boys design for mult rolls at triple digit speeds.

On another note...
If your tub is FIRMLY attached to the frame... You shouldn't need to attach the cage to the frame for slow speed rolls even with mucho impact. However, I'd probably tie the cage in in sime way cuz I like to OVER build.


Cory

I know exactly what would happen if I tied a cage into my rusted ass tub. I'd get hit in the head with steel tube instead of a muddy hill. I couldn't imagine blowing that wad on a cage and not tieing it in to a major structural member like the frame.

someone has been digging!!!

noob found the search button :flipoff2:

decided this topic wasn't dead yet. I'm looking for a cage 'kit' I guess you could say, and I don't really know of many sources. Basically I'm looking for a prebent, prenotched deal that I could just weld in.

Contact Helocat for a great cage kit. Metaltechcage (http://www.metaltechcage.com)

Thanks. That is exactly what I'm looking for, but I'm actually cheating a bit. This is the only relevant thread that I dug up and I actually have a cj7. I was hoping that whatever sources you guys suggested would also have cj7 cages since the 40's and the 7's are so similar.

Originally posted by Lance


<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

[ 10-14-2001: Message edited by: Lance ]

Is it just me or what? I can't see photos, smilies, etc. on this thread only. I can see on all other threads I have looked at. I have tried this thread several times with same result.

I can't see them either. I don't think that the syntax is correct. yep, it's in html, and html is not enabled. Those pic addresses aren't valid anyway. Don't work when placed in the addresss bar by themselves.

You also might want to talk to Rusty B.
He made Nolen's cage.
And we all know that it has held up very well in the past couple of years ;)

How do you get in touch with Rusty B.

Originally posted by gipper
How do you get in touch with Rusty B.
Email bigrusfj40@aol.com

Or you could PM him. rustyb


He does excellent work..