I am currently gathering parts and info for my project.

76’ CJ 7
Currently has a Ford carbureted 302 mated to a Ford T-18 coupled to a Jeep D-20 via Novak adapter.

The plan is to install a 5.0 HO NP435 203/205 doubler.
Rear D60
Front HP D44, with high steer
38.5 or 39.5 boggers on 15” rims
Waggy front 7 leaf springs

My questions are these:
1. I have 2 D60 rears, one is 74’ Ford FF, the other is a 79’ Ford FF, both 30 spline, should I change these to 35 spline?
2. Is there anything that I should do to the Ford front HP D44 other than high steer, locker and gears?
3. I was planning on running 4.88’s, but with the doubler I could get by with 4.10’s or 4.56’s, any thoughts on this?
4. Also what other tires would you recommend?
5. Anything I’m missing?

Thanks in advance.

35 spline the rear, trade the 44 for a 60, trim the fenders to fit 39's with stock Waggy's, search...

CTM's alloy shafts and 38's, not 39 boggers, to wide and heavy for a front Dana 44, you will break all day.

I would love to have a HP D60, but I have not found one resonable yet. The D44 will be the last thing built and installed in hopes of finding the D60 front.

throw away your worthless 76 frame and get a frame from a yj to begin with. any project is only as good as its foundation.. the 76 frame is weak weak weak.. its not boxed all the way and the inside frame rails where it is boxed is paper thin..cj frames suck as a general rule, but the pre-77 frames especially suck.

also watch out for the for 44's.. the ones off the late 70's f-250 (8 lug) will have a dual piston caliper that you wont be able to grind enough to fit 15" rims inside.

I know the frames are weak, near the front spring rear mount, that will be plated from behind the rear spring mount to the front bumper with 3/16 plate.
The brakes are 2 piston 8 lug, but i have read that these are easier to clearance than the chevy's, i've also read that they won't work with 15" rims?

Couple more questions:
4.10's, 4.56's or 4.88's, I do drive to the trails, so it needs to be somewhat roadable.
Where is a good place to get the CTM's and 35 spline alloy shafts

I didn't think there was any difference in the '76 or '77 frame? I'm looking at getting a 76, I would like to know if there's any difference?

Nice post, welcome to POR idiot. :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Are we talkin sand, mud, rocks? Lots of vertical? You punch it when the going gets tough or do you back down and try a different approach?

I'm guessing, rocks, no mud.

1. Yes. Unless you are lucky the hubs will need to be bored to accept a 1.5" shaft.

2. Trade for 60 or Warn, CTM. Having gone the Warn CTM route, the cost seems pretty close, stupid brain.

3. 4.88's sounds like a good choice. I'm running them with dinky little 36's and can drive to trail no problem with a 258. 5.0 has less stroke, so piston speed will be much better.

4. I hear Krawlers or MTR's are good in rocks. All purpose, maybe IROK. I'm looking at 38" Boggers, but we run muddy trails.

5. Thoughts about your wheelbase, COG, and desired crawl ratio? Why bother with 15" wheels? Your T-18 is better than the NP 435.

Originally posted by elusiv
throw away your worthless 76 frame and get a frame from a yj to begin with. any project is only as good as its foundation.. the 76 frame is weak weak weak.. its not boxed all the way and the inside frame rails where it is boxed is paper thin..cj frames suck as a general rule, but the pre-77 frames especially suck.

also watch out for the for 44's.. the ones off the late 70's f-250 (8 lug) will have a dual piston caliper that you wont be able to grind enough to fit 15" rims inside.

76 was first year of boxed frames, 77 is same as 76. The frame may be weak but not weak weak weak. Just one weak.

Originally posted by bobdog
76 was first year of boxed frames, 77 is same as 76. The frame may be weak but not weak weak weak. Just one weak.

Plus he's from New Mexico. Odds are its a nice clean rust free (weak) frame.

25 years of Mid-West winters would make it a weak, weak, weak frame. :D

I have thought about the wheel base,I have room to move the engine forward 2 inches and I'm hoping to gain 2 inches at each axle with the waggie springs. The double will be 10 inches longer than what I have now, If that is not enough I can move the rear axle perches as far as needed.
I'm not to worried about the COG, I'll be running tube fenders in the front and sawzall the rear untill everything clears.
I now have 58 to 1 crawl ratio, which works well on the local trails, but Las Cruces is only an hour and a half away. That's why I have opted for the doubler T case.
Seems to be more tire options with the 15" wheels.
Why do you say the T-18 is better?

The fender trimming will help you clear the tires, but will do very little for your Center Of Gravity (COG), which will be pretty high with 38's and Waggy SOA. The problem is tall Jeeps tip over.

I recommend moving the front axle forward a couple inches and the rear back till you are in the 104-108" wheelbase range. This, combined with full width axles, will make you more stable.

BTW, perches are on the axle, you will be moving the rear spring and shackle hangers.

Don't move the engine forward unless you want to move the front axle even more.

As for crawl ratio and highway driveability, you'll be fine with any of ratios you mention. The 4:10 puts you about where you are now until you engage the doubler and is going to have a stronger pinion than the 4.88's.

The main disadvantage of the NP-435 (compared to T-18) is it will burn up if the fluid leaks out or if its flat towed incorrectly.