Hey guys,

All this talk about Billster's sway bar has prompted me to tell you about the failure of the Disco 1 sway bar I put on the rear axle of the CrewCab.

I could not find the rear Salisbury sway bar, so I got a Disco 1 rear sway bar instead. It bolted in fine, looked pretty good, did exactly what I wanted it to, but eventually wore out the bushings to the point of complete failure.

I think that the shape of the bar and where it mounts to the axle might be different from Disco to Salisbury.

Does anyone have a factory Salisbury sway bar that they would like to part with?

I'll take a pic of the car-nage later this morning and post it.

Michael does your case have the brackets on it for a sway?

Both the front and rear Sals I got from the shorland have the brackets. So there is definately a HD bar out there.

I looked at a 90 and it looks like the bracket is in the same location. I am going to go look at a 110 this morning and was going to measure to see if the stock brackets are the same as the Sals. If so I was thinking about contacting Scorpion Racing.

I have also thought about trying the curry anti-rock bar.

The anti-rock bar is the shiat, but I am resorting to CB-ness on the sway bar thing. I know there are several 110 owners who have pulled them off, I'm actually contemplating calling Greg-O at SG to see if he has one he'd send me.

My rear Salisbury does have the correct brackets, and it did come with a sway bar but it got left back in Portland when I moved. I couldn't find it (it got ferreted away with a bunch of other parts), so I figured I'd deal with it later.

Now is later.

The NAS 110's came with rear swaybars IIRC...

Here's what's goin' on.

Any ideas?

http://www.tawayama.com/sway-bar-on-Salisbury.jpg

I've got one off of my 110 that I would be more than happy to send you but I threw it in with a couple of others from D1s and now I can't tell which one is which...are you sure there's a difference? I can check my parts book tonight.

Mike

to much travel of the rear axle to have sway bar the link ends in that pic are up on the axle they are supposed to be hanging down away from the axle. when the axle has to much drop it will flip those ends and mess things up.
atleast that is what i have run in to

That's the thing, I'm not sure if I remember what the original one looked like.

I kind of figured that the travel of the axle was alllowing the brackets to flip up where they're not supposed to and then cause binding on the bushings. I have a second set of bushings I can loosen everything up and replace them with, but then I am still confronted with the original problem of too much travel.

How do they do it on the 110's? I have longer travel Rancho's for the shocks, I'm wondering if that's how the factory sway bar stays in place is because the rear axle has no place to go with the shorter shocks.

Hmmm....

i think you are right factory shocks don't allow the axle to drop and let the links flip

Got it in a nutshell, Michael.
When there is no load in the back of a 130 CC, the OEM shocks run basically topped out. It stops the links flipping around.
I also installed longer Rancho's, and had exactly that experience with the drop links flipping around.
I haven't overcome the problem yet as standard shocks went back on as I wasn't happy with the Rancho's. (TLC 100 series inverted)

Ok, here's what I have planned.

I'm going to take the stubby cast-iron links, the ones with the tie-rod ends on them, and cut them in half. I'm going to weld a 2 inch section of 1-1 1/2 inch tubing to lengthen them then reattatch everything as before.

If 2 inches isn't long enough I'll go to 3. If 3 inches isn't long enough I'll figure something else out.

Originally posted by Serious One
Ok, here's what I have planned.

I'm going to take the stubby cast-iron links, the ones with the tie-rod ends on them, and cut them in half. I'm going to weld a 2 inch section of 1-1 1/2 inch tubing to lengthen them then reattatch everything as before.

If 2 inches isn't long enough I'll go to 3. If 3 inches isn't long enough I'll figure something else out.

I heard weld...

:flipoff2:

Yeah, I shouldn't misrepresent myself like that.

When I said "I'd be welding...", what I should have said was, "JasonM will be welding...".

:flipoff2:

Lucky for me you owe me a favor! :D

Originally posted by Serious One
The anti-rock bar is the shiat, but I am resorting to CB-ness on the sway bar thing. I know there are several 110 owners who have pulled them off, I'm actually contemplating calling Greg-O at SG to see if he has one he'd send me.

My rear Salisbury does have the correct brackets, and it did come with a sway bar but it got left back in Portland when I moved. I couldn't find it (it got ferreted away with a bunch of other parts), so I figured I'd deal with it later.

Now is later.

The NAS 110's came with rear swaybars IIRC...

CB-ness???

As others mentioned the NAS 110s have the links hanging down.
Just looking at it, seems like this is a bad idea. Looks like it would catch on everything on the trail.
Also dont like how there is only one tab on each side of the axle to mount to.

I can't tell from your photo, did your frame bushing/mount get damaged?
Did you use a stretched Rover frame or a homemade one?

Pete

CB-ness = Cheap Bastard-ness

For right now the factory setup will be fine for me I think. If the links get too long and start to dangle where I don't want them I'll reconsider what's going on.

I have looked at my frame and I could potentially squeeze an Anti-Rock bar in there somewhere, I just don't know if the work will be worth the result. Right now I'm looking for something 'bolt-in' (as D-Web as that sounds).

I s'pose customizing the sway bar links isn't quite bolt-in, but it's close enough.

You asked if I used a stretched Rover frame or a home-made one. The answer is 'yes'.

The sway bar brackets are stock and are undamaged.

I'd still like to see a photo of a stock NAS 110 rear sway bar setup.

Originally posted by Serious One
I'd still like to see a photo of a stock NAS 110 rear sway bar setup.

I will bring the digital with me next time I go over to Seattle...next week.
I have a 110 rolling chassis here, but no sways :(

I guess I'm not getting this but...if the axle is traveling down further wouldn't you want to use spacers on the frame brackets to move the whole bar down instead of changing the links?

Technically speaking you could do either.

If the axle is moving so far downward that it allows the brackets to move past the center point and flip up (causing binding and bushing failure), then any way to keep the brackets from flipping up would work.

Pushing the whole sway bar down towards the ground is more work, and will cause more headaches in the future than extending the links.

I think that's why the anti-rock bar is so sweet, everything is tucked up out of the way and you can place it in the location that best suits your application.

Maybe I should be thinking about an anti-rock bar...

:confused:

The thing is that when you droop it all the way down, Even with the extended links the sway bar will push back on the low hanging frame mounts and tear them off. I made extended links for the wifes Disco ignoring what I knew was true. Like LRover says to make this arrangment work correctly the frame mounts would need to be lowered. It only only took one trip, Karen the kids and a mellow trail (WHILE I WAS AT WORK!!!!) to rip the right frame mount off. She has too much fun!!!!
I think a better solution would be to use something like a Disco ll uses with the long rod end style ends Plus it is bigger for that beast and goes outside the frame providing more leverage. Plus it would be much easier to disconnect.
I have a few here I've been toying with for just this reason and I'd be happy to share dimensions, pics (held up to a 110 chassis if you like) and even one of the many (had to buy in bulk)

Just thoughts.
Keith