Just wondering if this much movement should make me nervous, or if it's just part of 'the deal'.

http://www.tawayama.com/hub-flange-with-movement.jpg

Are the bolt's torqued to spec? I FOREVER had problems with my studs backing out when I was running GBR flanges (not that I think it's the flange per se').

And the answer is no. You shouldn't have any movement in the flange...But is it something to worry about? Personally I think it get's down to how anal you are about such things. I ususally wouldn't check until I had leakage around the flange...Then I would find two or three flange bolts finger tight.

--D

The studs are lock-tited in and the stud nuts are torqued down to 35 lbs. on 4 out of the 5. This is the hub that I had problems with the bolts stripping out on, so the 5th one is only probably torqued to 20 lbs?

The other hub is torqued down to 35 lbs on all 5 and it shows similar movement.

I haven't checked them to see if they loosened up, but from the appearance of the mud not being disturbed I doubt it. The mud having that hair line crack in it was the thing that tipped me off.

Oh, and FINGER TIGHT?????:eek:

Remind me to just watch when you're driving and not hop in! :flipoff2:

Originally posted by Serious One
having that hair line crack in it was the thing that tipped me off.

Oh, and FINGER TIGHT?????:eek:

Remind me to just watch when you're driving and not hop in! :flipoff2:

I have the same issue on my knuckle bolts on the housing up front. I once drove to Moab, noticed a leak of gear oil, and 5 bolts finger tight....

I have to retorque every few weeks.

j

Guys,
You might want to consider using safety wire on those nuts and bolts that regularly work loose. I've used it on aircraft and a race car for many years.
It won't hold the fastener at the torque level but it will prevent it from loosening more than a tiny amount.
Buy yourself a Nut Saf-T-Blok(http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/nutsaftblok.php), some 1/32 (I think) drill bits, and a roll of .032 safety wire and you're ready to drill and safety wire the existing fasteners on your truck.
Installing the safety wire itself is pretty easy by hand, you don't need the special pliers. Feed the wire through the holes and pull in a tightening direction. Then twist it with eight to ten twists per inch. Tie it off to another fastener (in a tightening direction) or fixed structure and you're finished. I could probably find or write a tutorial if anyone is interested.
Oh yeah, it looks pretty cool too.
Later,
Mike Pado

I think you need nylock nuts and increase the torque up to 45-50. But wait until you get your replacement hub first. I hate to admit it but I just run up with the rattle gun. Probably over 100 torque. I am probably the guy that ruined the threads in your hub sometime in the past.
Your wheel bearings are not loose are they. If so the extra movement will loosen things up too.

How do you find the lug nuts work with the short studs and thick wheels? I've been wondering if I should get the longer studs.

Loctite and an air tool Seems to work well... Some claim that replaceing the bolts/studs each time helps (must be former VW owners..) I just got in the habit of Blue Loctite and excessive torque... Or more Bolts/ studs... Ten will fit the hub nicely...

Originally posted by western110
How do you find the lug nuts work with the short studs and thick wheels? I've been wondering if I should get the longer studs.

I wondered the same thing. Funny but the front studs are plenty long enough, the rear studs are from a hub off of an '83 RRC, so you may not notice the shorter studs on your hubs.

I thought about getting longer studs, but think I'm going to do steel wheel spacers with longer studs instead.

You can see from the dry mud that the lug nuts don't budge at all.

The thought I have now is that maybe after repeated removal of the flange bolts with all that dried loctite in there that it's gumming up the works.

In the future I won't remove them/install them without first chasing the threads with the proper tap.

Mine did the same!
use spring washers under the nuts/bolts stops it.
Some thing to do with the differing hardness of the drive member material and bolts