This may be a bit rambling, but see if you follow.

Original
Stock Toyota axle: 55.5" wide
Spacers - 3/4" per side
10" wheels w/ 3.5" backspacing
16" wide boggers.
My math gets me an overall width of 76" from sidewall to sidewall.

Option A.
Stock Dodge front Dana 60: 67" wide
8.5" wide wheels (beadlocked stock 7" wide wheels) w/ 3.5" backspacing
15" wide TSL's.
My math gets me an overall width of 83.5" sidewall to sidewall

Option B.
Stock Dodge front Dana 60: 67" wide
10" wide wheels w/ 3" backspacing
15" wide TSL's.
My math gets me an overall width of 86" sidewall to sidewall

Option C.
Narrowed Dodge front Dana 60: 64" wide
8.5" wide wheels (beadlocked stock 7" wide wheels) w/ 3/5" backspacing
15" wide TSL's.
My math gets me an overall width of 80.5" sidewall to sidewall

Option D.
Narrowed Dodge front Dana 60: 64" wide
10" wide wheels w/ 3" backspacing
15" wide TSL's.
My math gets me an overall width of 83" sidewall to sidewall




Ok, with all of that laid out, here is the deal. The top one is what my Toyota was running before I sold the axles. As of now, I am deciding between Options A. and C.

Is it really worth the cost (roughly $150) for me to narrow the Dana 60 by 3" considering the wheel/tire setup I am planning to run?

How wide is too wide?

Just for comparison, how wide is your rig? (I can share how I calculated my numbers so we can compare apples to apples).

Option "C" is what I always run and I love the stability of it. I have 3 rigs now and they all have (option C). Quit debating and get hacking on it......Summer is right around the corner.....:D :p :beer:

my rig has been "C" for 7 years, I like it.

Option A is only 3" wider on each side, that is not a very big change. I say run it, if you fon't like it save up for some hummer wheels.

FWIW, stock Chevy 60, 15x10s w/4 1/8 backspacing (and MRT beadlocks added on), 15 wide TSLs, actual measurement is 88' - 89" wide.

One other thought, the widest car-hauler type trailers have 83 - 83 1/2" between the fenders. You can get/make removable fenders, or if you have the HD ones you can drive over them (like I do).

Pete

Originally posted by NE-RokToy
Option A is only 3" wider on each side, that is not a very big change. I say run it, if you fon't like it save up for some hummer wheels.

This I agree with. My Cruiser is 80" wide and 80" tall.

That is something you should look at too. Too wide in my opinion would be wider than you are tall, but too narrow is being much more narrow than you are tall!

Save your $$ and run full width, you can always get Hummer Beadlocks.

Originally posted by pcorssmit
One other thought, the widest car-hauler type trailers have 83 - 83 1/2" between the fenders. You can get/make removable fenders, or if you have the HD ones you can drive over them (like I do).Pete


My trailer is 83" between the fenders.... and the fenders are 1/4" diamond plate and were built to be driven over :)

I'm assuming that option "A" is your first choice, since you started with it...

I agree, it's 3 3/4" wider per side, which isn't much, but if you run narrow trails, might make a difference...

So, I guess the question is, what are your trails like?

EDIT:

Also (and pardon my making up terms :D), that's "soft width"... What's the outer-rim-edge to outer-rim-edge width? Cuz your tires can squish past shit that your rims'll get stuck on...

Just a thought.

I plans are current'y for Option C - narrow the axle and run the narrow rims.

I was just wondering if 3" or so in overall width really matters...

IMO The cost of narrowing the axles seems wasted to me, to only lose 1.75" on either side.

How often do you squeze through obstacles where 3.5", or 1.75" on each side will make a difference ? Only you can answer that question.

And dont forget the added cost/trouble of having to carry a custom spare with you. And the cost of replacement when you do break custom length axle shafts. And when your friends axle breaks, you are just going to have to say; Sorry, My axle is custom length, cant help you.

Is 3.5" really worth all the trouble? Once again, Only you know what you need.

Sean

I would go with option c. I try to keep my rig around 78" in width. Mainly becuase that is the rear door on my trailer. When I narrowed my 60 I am now at like 80" not a big deal in my opinion. Except now I have to take the big tires off to fit it in the trailer. But on the trail it feels stable. I don't think I would go any wider or you would have to drive over everything instead of being able to fit between some obstacles.

stay fullwidth, gives you the ability to get cheap spares, gives ya better stability and just looks way cool. my yj is fuulwidth chevy and i would never think about being narrow again. and the d60 is def better than the toy axle no brainer there

as stated it really depends on where you wheel. out there in your neck of the woods alot of guys are running full width 60's so my question is does it casue them problems? there are alot of places that i wheel that are kinda tight yet i like some width to help with stability so i am kinda in between. i run a 62" wide front 60, 15" rims with 3.5 bs, and 38.5x14.5sx's and my over all width is 79.5" i like it. it is definatly wide for a cj but it is not full width either. if the 67" axle will fit in the areas you wheel then stick with it.


:D

I am with high 5, only you can make the decision dave, only you know how you drive and how you fit.. I am in the same situation, as the tubes hopefully will be pressed into the new front diff in the next couple of days and then its full bore with the width I have decided on, which I still havent made anything in stone on that yet. But running with other rigs that are wider than me has definatly veered my opinion (64-63")

Originally posted by DRM



My trailer is 83" between the fenders.... and the fenders are 1/4" diamond plate and were built to be driven over :)

Try that with muddy tires when your trailer isn't sitting QUITE level & you'll be wishing you could just squeeze between the fenders :D

I was gonna vote for option D, but since you like A & C, "C" it is :)

TEX

I plan on running my RC60 full-width with hummer rims
stock RC60: ~69 wide
hummer rims: 10" wide with 7.5" backspacing
15" wide TSLs
My math results in overall width of 79" sidewall to sidewall.

Reasons I plan on running this setup.
-No cost for axle narrowing, just need to modify steering to clear the rims, and possibly some brake grinding (not certian yet that I'll need too)
-stock axles easier to find and replace. I already bought spare inners and stub for $75.
-Hummer rims realtively cheap compaired with other beadlocks. I got the rims for $40 each, and magnisium beadlocks/runflats for $20 each wheel. Some say runflat may limit airing down of tire, but I plan on 42" tire which will have a ways to go before hitttting runflats.

Just my opinion, you have to decide, but I think this is the best option for narrowing an axle relative to cost.

For a trail rig, I don't think the width of a full size axle is going to hurt you much. On *some* tight trails such as down at the hammers, maybe, but on your muddy hills in TN you should be fine. :p:p:p Now, if you were building a competition rock crawler, I would tell you that full size is a flag plow. My rig is currently 82" width with my 39.5 x 18 Boggers, and 79" wide with 37 x 12.5 MTR's (62" wide axles).

i might have been blind but another reason to narrow the front axle is so that he doesnt have to out board his springs. BTW why did you put up option B&D??? i but fo me i say option C

A is the best option. If you don't like it you can always cut it down later. Also its cheaper. And it will make life easiest on the steering system.

Originally posted by TrailRunner
i might have been blind but another reason to narrow the front axle is so that he doesnt have to out board his springs. BTW why did you put up option B&D??? i but fo me i say option C

Yes, the main reason for narrowing it is that it will be a direct bolt-in under my current spring hangers.

Find some rigs with setups like your thinking about and go run your fav. trails. Then you'll know.

Originally posted by DRM


Yes, the main reason for narrowing it is that it will be a direct bolt-in under my current spring hangers.

yes but you need to ask yourself is it easier to move the spring hangers or narrow and axle.:D

i agree with lance if your buildin a comp rig dont go ful width if your just buildin it to play around on the trail go full width:) i mean what can it hurt. unless you wanna go street leagal.:(

Originally posted by high5


yes but you need to ask yourself is it easier to move the spring hangers or narrow and axle.:D

$75 to narrow the long side, plus the cost of a shortened/resplined inner shaft.

Outboarding my spring hangers mean cutting the complete drop hanger off the frame, building a new wider one, cutting the shackle hangers off the frame then having to outboard them as well while having to account for the curver in the frame where they would need to be.


To me, narrowing the axle is a lot easier :p