Hydraulic tube Bender Question

[guinea13]

Is that pink or red?:confused: Looks pink with the flash.

[broncorob]

Originally posted by guinea13
Is that pink or red?:confused: Looks pink with the flash.

It's red. I wanted :rainbow: but couldn't find it in a spray can:(

Made the first bend the other day. Will do about 100 degrees in one shot in about 10 seconds. I really don't want it any faster. Already fawked it up one time. Does anyone else have this problem? When retracting and the tube comes loose, the follower falls out of place and slides down its pin. Well when the ram was closing the bender I didn't notice the follower out of place and it closed on it and tried to pull the damn mounting bolts out of the frame. I had to weld them up and drill new holes. When bending manually I used to just always pull the follower out and remove the tube. I guess it's been awhile since I've bent tube. I just need to be more carefull.

[guinea13]

I was going to put a piece of plate under the follower so that wouldn't happen but then I realized that the foller was not machined to be able to pull the tube back through it. It could gouge the tube on the way back. I figure just retract a little so that the pressure is off the tube and either pull the follower out or just unpin the tube from the die and pull through.

[NOT76]

Does anybody question the ram mounting on most of the units pictured here? Seems like the geometry is wrong, like it would cause undue force on the bender? Scott@Rockstomper's unit has the ram mounted to the arms pushing them apart without puting any side load on the pins and arms. It seems Scott's would be the better design? Opinions?

[Hickeyjones]

Originally posted by NOT76
Does anybody question the ram mounting on most of the units pictured here? Seems like the geometry is wrong, like it would cause undue force on the bender? Scott@Rockstomper's unit has the ram mounted to the arms pushing them apart without puting any side load on the pins and arms. It seems Scott's would be the better design? Opinions? I agree. I have seen a few that use an "L" shaped plate. the top of the L bolts to the one end of the bender, and the ram bolts to the leg of the L, so the force is all transferred equally throughout the scissor motion of the bender.

[guinea13]

The amount of load placed on the pins is not really that much if you place the cylinder at an angle to the bender arms. I haven't heard of anyone that has broken a pin or bent an arm with this mounting techneque. By putting a an brace at the front of the ram and piviting it so that the cylinder pushes in perpindicular with the bender arm will put alot of stress on the bolt holding the bender in place. Each has some sort of stress on a pin but it is not all that much.

[gde]

The only time you're going to overstress the pins is if you use a cylinder that is much longer than 24" stroke. In addition, if the geometry of the bender's bending plane and the cylinder are not in alignment, then you will also create stress on the pins.
Re: the following bar during retraction of the cylinder, I have the same problem. I reverse the cylinder at the end of a bend just enough to take the pressure off the tube, then pull the pin out of the die and finally tap the following die lightly with a hammer so that I can remove it totally to avoid pinching it between the bending arm and frame. Seems that is the only "fix".

[guinea13]

I GOT IT!!!!!

I got my die set this afternoon. I took my lunch and picked it up and installed it. Made a 20 degree test bend. I will try to take pics or make a video of a 90 and max one shot bend tonight.

When I was bending the tube the bender didn't bog at all. This thing kicks ass. The only thing I saw was when I started to bend the tube the frame kicked up a hair. I will need to put a brace connecting the legs together (I really don't need this because it doesn't move that much, but will because I don't want it to move at all).

[chumly2071]

guinea13,
when you mounted your degree wheel, did you weld it to the lower leg of the bender frame, or how does it attach? I drew up my version of your wheel in cad, and got it engraved on a Hermes machine in black over white plastic. It turned out great, I am just trying to figure out the best way to get it mounted. I see how the pro/tools unit mounts, but am not for sure on how the jd2 style mounts....

thanks

[guinea13]

It is held on by magnet right now. I am going to put a mounting tab on the bottom of the table (under the bottom arm) so I can bolt it in and then remove it if I want.

[guinea13]

IT'S ALIVE.

I had a video but somehow it got destroyed. I will try to do another one next week since I am going out of town the rest of the week.

[guinea13]

A shot of the tube (1 3/4 120 wall DOM).

[Blitzed]

Did you make the die? what was your ID of the die? We did some measuring on our old jd2 die and found them to be about .030 smaller than actual tube size I.E. 1.250 4.5CLR die was 1.220. we are drawing up a 1.5 5CLR die and have been disscusing if it should be 1.5 or 1.470. It seems that have the tube press into the die would decrease defromation and hold a better OD. Any thought people? Or measurments?

[geargrinder]

Damn looks good. You owe me a :beer:




:)

[geargrinder]

Damn looks good. You owe me a :beer:




:)

[guinea13]

I bought the die from JD2. I did 2 bends with and it started to gaul the tube a bit. I did use lubricant. I noticed that on the die there is a some rough spots on the bottom edge. I am going to smooth them out and try some more bends this weekend. I also need to get the degree wheel pointer positioned correctly.

Now I have to get to work making a list of all the parts and costs for all those people that have asked.

GearGrinder, Yes I do owe you a :beer:. Next time you are in Greenville, SC or if I am in Dayton, NV will go out and have alot of :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: .

[RedFJ]

How far did one shot bend? Past 90 degrees?
Thanks

[RedFJ]

How far did one shot bend? Past 90 degrees?
Thanks

[crazycolo1]

guinea13

Was the gauling on the tube caused by the die or by the backing/follower block?

[guinea13]

One shot bend is between 120 and 130 degrees. Did a half ass job of measuring. Will be doing more test bending next week and will get a better measurement. Only one repining to do over 180 (only went to 180 or I wouldn't be able to get tube out).

The gauling was from the die. I think the die has some minor imperfections on the bottom ring. Which when the tube went across it is scratched (gauled) the tube. But it wasn't that bad. I am going to use an emery cloth and clean the edge up and try it again. I am also going to use white lithium grease instead of wd40.

[rsitzejr]

I just ordered myself a new follower dye from JD2, because of gauling, there was a thread about this earlier but JD2 recommended case hardening, so ordered some kasonite(sp?) I'll give it a try when it get's here.

[RedFJ]

Thanks, most informative thread yet. STarting mine now.

[cebby]

guinea13 - how's that parts list coming? ;)

[guinea13]

Almost done, Been traveling this weekend for business. Will have it done either tomorrow or at the latest Thursday.

[KrebsATM02]

I've been working on mine. I'm having some problems though. I mounted my bender stright off the end of a piece of 4" channel. The way it is now if I attatched the ram to the side of the channel I think it would push the swing arm straight. With a piece of tube in it there is no angle on the ram at all. Any one else have this problem? The only way to solve it is to mount the ram in the channel.

Also, I think I used to thick of hydraulic oil. Never dealt with hydrualics other than our tractor so I just used that crap. Now that I read that it is tractor transmission/hydraulic oil. So I think it's too thick. Would this cause the ram not to function? Sorry for the dumb question on that one.

I looked up and it said to use Mobil DTE 24? Where do you get this stuff?

[guinea13]

You should be able to use 10W hydraulic oil (check to verify with your pump vender). That Hyraulic oil you are using now is way to thick. It is probably the cause of your issues. Also, You will want to put some angle between the ram and the bender arm. Otherwise there will be too much stress on the bender to ram bolt and also the main pin holding the die. You could infact bust the fixed bender arms with a setup like you described (I have seen pics on one that broke on this site somewhere). Post some pics so that we can see exactly what you have done so far.

[KrebsATM02]

I'll post some pic's when I get my camera out of my truck at lunch. I'm just mocking up where the ram goes so the only thing permanent so far are the 3/4 holes where the bender mounts. I don't want to redrill those again, but I will if I have too.

I guess I'll just take the lines apart and empty all that heavy oil out. Think it's bad if a little of that oil and the new oil mix? Or is there some way I should purge all that old oil out.

[broncorob]

my pump from Northern said to use ATF

[guinea13]

Usually it says use ATF or light weight Hydraulic oil (10 W).

[KrebsATM02]

Ok, here is my mock up. Right now, red arrow obviously won't work. You think the green arrow would be fine if I can mount the ram inside the channel? The problem is I think the ram is bigger than the inside of the channel.

http://www.offroadrepublic.com/gallery/albums/albun73/aai.jpg

Lengthwise

http://www.offroadrepublic.com/gallery/albums/albun73/aaj.jpg

[guinea13]

That would work alot better. If you can fab a plate I would put it just a bit more over (see blue line in pic). Mine is mounted just behind the two mounting bolts about where the I placed plate on your drawing.

[KrebsATM02]

How much pressure do you think is put on the ram? What I am thinking about doing is cutting the center out of the C channel and bending the 2 sides at an angle and then bending it straight again. If I then braced a few times on the side do think it would hold? Like the top kindergarten cad drawing?

Or do you think the second drawing would be better? Now that I'm thinking about it, the second one seems much better to me. Why don't other people do it like this? I guess I wanted it in double shear.

http://www.offroadrepublic.com/gallery/albums/albun73/aam.sized.jpg

[geargrinder]

You might try cutting the end off of your c-channel right behind your two mounting bolts. Flip it around and weld it to the c-channel so they are oriented back to back. That will move the the bender over a couple inches. Also, if the pro-tools bender acts like my JD2, you won't actually start bending with the arms completely closed like in your pictures. They will start the bending after the arms have opened giving the cylinder some more angle to work with. Hope you find an easy solution.



:)

[guinea13]

I like geargrinders idea.

[guinea13]

PARTS LIST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Here is the long anticipated parts list.

If I missed anything let me know and I will correct the file.

I wrote it in WordPad because my Microsoft Word broke (it is a .doc file). If you any problems opening it let me know and I will reformat it at work tomorrow.


Click on the "BenderParts.doc"

Here is the link.


Bender Parts list (http://www.exm.netfirms.com/Bender/bender.htm)

[ROKTOY]

I also used ATF in mine.....
Jay

[KrebsATM02]

Thanks for the advice but it was too late! Here is what I ended up doing.

http://www.offroadrepublic.com/gallery/albums/albun73/aao.sized.jpg
Just test fitting everything before I weld. I'll finish it this weekend.

http://www.offroadrepublic.com/gallery/albums/albun73/aap.sized.jpg

http://www.offroadrepublic.com/gallery/albums/albun73/aaq.sized.jpg

I think this angle should be fine. Opinion before I weld it?

[KrebsATM02]

Damn these are heavy when you add the ram and a piece of tube! Do any of you have problems with your cart's being tippy?? Just on the piece of I beam I have it mocked up on I had to add some weight, I can't imagine what happens when you add a full piece of tube. I guess I'll try to pu my pump and motor on the other end.

[guinea13]

Looks good to me! But you may want to resupport that area because you may break it with the pressure that the ram will put out.


Mine is not tippy because I if you look at the table I made the legs are spead apart nicely (ha ha ha)

[WOLF359]

Here's a pic of mine if it helps:

http://www.gohumvee.com/images/tech/hydraulicbender/bender.jpg



And a few small clips:

Bender extending (11 seconds unloaded) (http://www.gohumvee.com/images/tech/hydraulicbender/out.avi)

bender contracting (11 seconds unloaded) (http://www.gohumvee.com/images/tech/hydraulicbender/in.avi)

A pan of the bender and stand (http://www.gohumvee.com/images/tech/hydraulicbender/pan.avi)

A shot of the power supply (50 ton press with quick disconnects) (http://www.gohumvee.com/images/tech/hydraulicbender/power.avi)

[DanB]

yayy i got my stuff for my project.. but bad news the guy who machined the stuff for me got 3 plates instead of 4 plates.. so im going to ask him to machine one more plate.. and he even machined the pins too for me !!!

since im his good friend.. costed me only :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:
thats all :flipoff2:

looking forward to start building the whole thing..

and for the hydro stuff im not going that route.. going to use air over hydro jack.. 18 inch if my memory serves me right.. wont be doing full 180 degree bend much.. and i have patience.. so it should be all perfect.. next thing is buy the die..

[DanB]

forgot to post the images :D

www.oversizedbastards.com/bender.html

wanted to thanks guinea 13 for the digarams of the bender

[guinea13]

Good luck, It will take you a while to make a single bend but if that is the way you want to go, go for it.

Thanks also has to go to GearGrinder for the drawings. And I still owe him a :beer:.

When is someone going to owe me a :beer: for all this info.

[broncorob]

Ok just want to give an update. You can go back to page 5 and see pics.
I was gonna use this motormotor (http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=4006970&storeId=6970&productId=344260&langId=-1) , but I just happened to have this one (http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&langId=-1&catalogId=4006970&PHOTOS=on&TEST=Y&productId=461&categoryId=6230) sitting in my garage off of a dead compressor my buddy gave me. Thanks Nick :D
I used this pump (http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=4006970&storeId=6970&productId=23502&langId=-1)
This valve (http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=4006970&storeId=6970&productId=37216&langId=-1)
This cylinder (http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=4006970&storeId=6970&productId=200042674&langId=-1)
The 2 gallon resevoir and inlet screen cost about $60. Not sure how much the hoses cost because I threw it in on the companies hydraulics bill(don't worry, its my company).
You'll also need the corresponding LoveJoy couplings to go between the pump and motor for about $10.

Now, on to the update.
It is very nice not having to pull that freakin lever arm:D . With the valve above I can make it go as slow as I want. Mine does about 90 degrees and that's all I care about. On my tube chassis I've yet to make a bend over 90. IT may not be the fastest setup, but it's plenty fast for anything I ever plan on.

One problem, I can't make 2 fawking bends in the same plane:mad: . Like for a U shaped hoop. When the bender was manual it was easy to fit the tube and then extend the swing arm out till it had some tension on it, then recheck how level everything is. With this, the only way to extend it is to use the valve and I can't do that and hold onto the tube at the same time. As a result it's always a little bit out of plane. Granted someone else to help out would be nice, but I don't have that luxury. So, I just deal with it being a little bit out of plane.

So, there you go fawkers. Get building and don't be scared, it's not rocket science.:flipoff2:

[guinea13]

Sorry that you are having problems with doing same plain bends. In my design I have a 3/4 bolt that mounts the ram to the moveable bender arms. This gives me a 1/4 inch play, since the ram holes are 1 inch. That way I can extend the ram till it almost touches the tube and then set the plain the way I want it then just manually move the moveable arm a hair to hold it in place. Then I just hit the ram again to hold the tension on the tube and recheck the plain.

If you can try this approach. It may help you out.

[guinea13]

Here is the parts list if anyone is having probems getting it from my website.


Qty: 1
Part: SAE-33024
Desc: Prince 3000PSI 3x24 Cylinder
Bought from: Prince Hydraulics

Qty: 1
Part: No part No.
Desc: 3200PSI 3.5 GPM (no load) Fenner
12V pump (power unit) w/remote
Bought from: EBAY(Search Fenner)

Qty: 2
Part: I/E 848-FS-08x04
Desc: Male Conn
Bought from: Barker Air Hydraulics

Qty: 1
Part: I/E 879-FS-08
Desc: Swivel Elbow
Bought from: Barker Air Hydraulics

Qty: 2
Part: Manuli 22512-08-08
Desc: Female JIC
Bought from: Barker Air Hydraulics

Qty: 2
Part: MANULI 22592-08-08
Desc: FJIC 90
Bought from: Barker Air Hydraulics

Qty: 2
Part: I/E 848-FSO-08x12
Desc: Male Conn
Bought from: Barker Air Hydraulics

Qty: 1
Part: Manuli LyteFlex-08
Desc: 24 inch 2 wire 3490 PSI hydraulic hose
Bought from: Barker Air Hydraulics

Qty: 1
Part: Manuli LyteFlex-08
Desc: 18 inch 2 wire 3490 PSI hydraulic hose
Bought from: Barker Air Hydraulics

Qty: 2
Part: No part No.
Desc: 3/4 inch 2.5 x 17 Steel plates
(moveable arms)
Bought from: Had Laying around

Qty: 1
Part: No part No.
Desc: 3/4 inch 3.5 x 16.5 Steel plate
(fixed arms)
Bought from: Had Laying around

Qty: 1
Part: No part No.
Desc: 3/8 inch 35 x 16.5 Steel plate (welded
to table)
Bought from: Had Laying around

Qty: 1
Part: No part No.
Desc: 1/4 steel C-Channel table w/ 3" angle
iron legs
Bought from: Steel yard

Qty: 4
Part: No part No.
Desc: Heavy duty casters
Bought from: Steel yard

Qty: 1
Part: Don't know
Desc: Full Pin set (Model 3 Bender)
from www.Jd2.com
Bought from: Jd2

Qty: 3
Part: Don't know
Desc: Sleeves for fixed arms(Model 3 Bender)
(used one for 3/4 bolt in moveable arm
(cut it down to size))
Bought from: Jd2

Qty: 2
Part: No part No.
Desc: 3/4 x 8 grade 8 bolt/washers/locknut/nut
Bought from: Loews

Qty: 2
Part: No part No.
Desc: 3/4 x 6 (I think) grade 8 bolt/washers...
Bought from: Loews

Qty: 1
Part: No part No.
Desc: 3 x 4 x 15/16 plate steel (to mount
rear of cylinder)
Bought from: Had Laying around

Qty: 1
Part: No part No.
Desc: 3/8 steel plates to resupport cylinder
rear mount
Bought from: Had Laying around

Qty: 1
Part: No part No.
Desc: 12 Volt battery 750 AMP
Bought from: Walmart

Qty: 1
Part: No part No.
Desc: 12 inch 8 guage (I think) positive
battery cable
Bought from: Advanced Auto

Qty: 1
Part: No part No.
Desc: 18 inch 8 guage (I think) negative
battery cable
Bought from: Advanced Auto

Qty: 1
Part: No part No.
Desc: 3/8 steel plate for mounting battery
Bought from: Had Laying around


Hydraulic connector parts list by Barker Air may
not be found else where so here are the generic
listing parts that can be found at almost any
hydraulic parts store. Remember these hydro
components are specific to my pump and cylinder.
Your will be different if your pump and cylinder are
different.

Quantity Description
-------------------------------------------------
2 -8 37 degree JIC male end to a 1/4
NPT male connector

2 -8 37 degree JIC female swivel to
-8 37 degree JIC male 90 degree adaptor

4 Hose ends that are 37 degree -8 female
swivel

2 3/4-16 SAE port (connects to cylinder)
to 37 degree -8 male swivel (connects
to hose end (37 degree -8 female swivel))


If there is anything I forgot let me know and I will update the list.

You can PM me with any questions.

[KrebsATM02]

Good thing you didn't buy the pump I bought Guinea!!! It's worn out thats why it won't work! The rebuild isn't too bad though, 60 bucks and it should be fine.

[guinea13]

KrebsATM02,
Sorry to hear that. Hope the rebuild goes well. What fried? the motor? That is why I didn't want to buy a used one on ebay. It is really hard to tell what is going to be shitty and what will be good.

[KrebsATM02]

Motor is fine, the pump is a little worn out. The plate the gears ride on is scored a little and leaking pressure. Monarch Hydraulics, the manufacturer has been really helpful. One of there guys saw it on ebay and indentified it. He has helped me numerous times with it. Told me what to check, I sent him pictures, etc... One of the best companies I have dealt with. I'd reccomend them to anyone.

Basically they are going to send me a whole new pump without the housing. It's costing me $60 plus shipping.

I have to bend a cage by hand this weekend now!! I've never bent, so I'm doing a buddies cage to get experience. Oh well I guess I'll make some temporary receiver hitch into my blazer for the weekend.

[U_SAY_GO]

I have been using my JD2 for several years and I thought I would share a couple comments on gauling.

1. Clean the area of the tube that is going to be bent. My experience is that if you can prevent it from starting then its pretty easy to avoid, but once the die(s) get a bad spot it's like a snowball rolling downhill.

2. NEVER bend a tube that has ANY rust on it. This is almost guarnteed to screw up the die and as I said above once it starts it progresses very quickly.

3. Use a light weight oil (i.e. WD40) because it won't catch and hold dust like grease will.

4. Wipe the oil off and relubricate frequently especially if the bender is close to where you are cutting and grinding.

5. Dies can be repaired if caught early. I have never baught a replacement shoe, but I have welded and reground them multiple times.

6. The pin that goes through the center of the die will also gaul up if you don't keep it clean and lubricate it on occasion.

Happy Bending!

[guinea13]

Good tips :bounce2:

Thanks alot

[DanB]

i was planning on putting a bearing inside (looks like a brass or something and it has oil in there.. self lubricating.. my friend who is engineer is going to research it for me.. so will see what he finds out..

slow meaning about 1 min or something it should be fine for me till i ahve the $$$ to pay for fanicer system.. or i i get lucky with some deals

[NOT76]

Anybody watch wolf 359's videos. looks like it has trouble at the closed position in both the extending and contracting videos. I assume that all the rams mounted like that do the same. That's evidence enough for me that mounting set up isn't cool. My parts should be here soon, I'm gonna have to go with Scott@Rockstomper and MillerMan's setups. I just don't see the benefit of the other style.

[RokHeep]

^^^That's BS. I solved that problem by offsetting the rear of my ram by ~2" and it has absolutely no bind whatsoever.

It's all about the design...

[Manning]

Hey, does anyone have equations handy to calculate theoretical psi and gpm of the pump; psi and hp of the motor; psi and load of the hydraulic cylinder? thanks.

[guinea13]

Originally posted by Shrock
Something for the tech section maybe?

http://www.indianafluidpower.com/formulas01.htm

Here you go. It was on the 3rd page 19th post down. If you need any other calculations let me know.

[Manning]

sweet, thanks for the link.

here's my buildup (http://www.bol.ucla.edu/~gearhead) so far

[guinea13]

Manning,
Now that is a class project I wish I could have done.

[Manning]

Originally posted by guinea13
Manning,
Now that is a class project I wish I could have done.

;) I hear ya man... it's about time we build some shiet. We've got a full-on machine shop (EDM, CNC, autoclave, etc) and more stellar resources.

Anyhow, does anyone living between LA and Fontana have a hydro bender i could check out this weekend? just for reference? thanks.

[KrebsATM02]

Here is a picture ya'll can laugh at ...

http://www.offroadrepublic.com/gallery/albums/albun84/aab.sized.jpg

I had to improvise on a mount since my pump is worn out and I had already commited the weekend to building a cage for the guy on the right. Yanking the handle wasn't bad, but picking up the box blade by hand was another story. Also, it's pretty slow even when bending a 90, I'll be glad when the pump comes in on friday!

[guinea13]

Nice, Now I am really glad that I built a Hydro bender. Ya gotta love that stand. I'll bet it doesn't move much when you are bending.

[Manning]

Here are pictures of my hydro components. I'm still CADing them for the project.

http://www.manningbilt.com/etc/P1230006 (Small).JPG

http://www.manningbilt.com/etc/P1230007 (Small).JPG

[rocksolidrigs]

I just bought the jd2 bender and have been reading up on all of this.......i am looking to go the cheapest route while still getting a full 90 degree bend at once.....so can anyone tell me the cheapest route to go? what is wrong with this from harbor freight?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=46169

[Manning]

guinea13- you said in an earlier post that if i am to fab the arms myself, to keep medium tolerances on the holes. I'm converting some 2-d CAD files of the arms for the water jet cutter tomorrow, so you think 1/64" over diameter will do?

oh, and the dimensions of the arms you have posted on your site have been verified to be correct? i'm going with 1/2" uppers and 3/8" lowers

[guinea13]

Manning,
The arms located on my site are correct. Because thats the way mine were made.

1/64 should be ok. Just remember a 1 inch pin will not slide in a 1 inch hole.


Rocksolidrigs,

As for the pump, There aren't really much specs on this pump. For some reason I don't trust it. HF does make the best quality stuff. Plus the reservior is to small. Is should be about 2 gallons.

[rocksolidrigs]

alright...so is it easy to make those arms? because if somebody makes me up a set i will pay for them rather then buying the bender from jd2....also what about using a pneumatic ram...ive seen other people doing this but they say its slow...is it possible to have a 24" air ram? what are prices on them? i havent been able to really find any to the specs i need.

[Manning]

i will see about getting a second set of arms cut tomorrow. i know that the 3/8" plate is already clamped down, so maybe i'll get 2 pairs of each arm made. and then go in for the 1/2" later.

how much are protools or jd kits?

[rocksolidrigs]

i believe the jd2 ones are 260 and that comes w/the degree ring then all the pins and stuff.....but i already ordered it but they said two weeks till they have some so im sure i could cancel it cus they wouldnt charge till they sent them out.....so if you want to give me a price on making them then thatd be great if its not too expensive....so just let me know...thanks!

[guinea13]

The arms aren't hard to make. You will have to have a vertical milling machine or heavy duty drill press to make the holes. the hardest part is lining up the position of where the holes are going to be made.

[xj4rocks]

so what's the difference between the protools dies and the jd2 dies? the position of the holes?

anyone have drawings for the protools dies?

Thanks

[Moab Austin]

Originally posted by Manning
Here are pictures of my hydro components. I'm still CADing them for the project.

http://www.manningbilt.com/etc/P1230006 (Small).JPG

http://www.manningbilt.com/etc/P1230007 (Small).JPG


IS that and electric seliniod valve???

I need one that is normally closed and then can produce pressure and return both ways for a double ported ram

[Manning]

the control valve is a Cross SBA2, P#BA11AG3EAO 131135. It's a 3 position, 4 way valve with a built in loadcheck, 2500 psi, 30 GPM, and adjustable relief valve. The brick is good for one double acting cylinder or bi-directional motor.

[Manning]

I just got back from the machine shop and 'milled' all 4 arms. I learned to program the abrasive water jet and started on the bender arms. 3/8" stainless was already loaded so i cut the lower arms which will be welded to the cart.

http://www.manningbilt.com/etc/waterjet.jpg

Here's the water jet in action. The plate is submerged along with the nozzle, which is fed sand from the hopper. Each arm took about 9 lbs of sand and about 20 minutes of cutting, and 10 minutes of setup. I picked up some 1/2" mild steel for the upper arms, and it took an additional 10 minutes per arm.

http://www.manningbilt.com/etc/cutplate.jpg

All in all, i was in the shop for only 2 hours and produced some sick arms. I will see about producing more of these.


http://www.manningbilt.com/etc/benderarms.jpg

[rocksolidrigs]

looks good...if you want to shoot me a price for a set then let me know soon otherwise they will place my order....so its up to you..im not sure if its worth your time

[rocksolidrigs]

Also, I am considering going with an air over hydraulic ram instead just because i think it will be cheaper although i know it will be slower.....does anyone know any good sites that sell them?? Would i need to get anything else to make more pressure or could i just go straight from my air compressor?
Also how long do you think it would take for a full 90 degree bend? I heard around 45-60 seconds....

[Manning]

Originally posted by rocksolidrigs
looks good...if you want to shoot me a price for a set then let me know soon otherwise they will place my order....so its up to you..im not sure if its worth your time

RockSolid- I would actually be more comfortable putting the bender together before i make any promises. In about 2-3 weeks i'll have a more definite answer after i mock up the parts, so if you are willing to wait i will keep you updated.

[rocksolidrigs]

alright sorry i cant wait that long because mine from jd2 should be here by then....but if it works out for you im sure you could make some money doing that....good luck

does anyone have any info on a good air powered jack for the tube bender? i wand to find one with a 24" stroke so that i can bend 90 degrees in one shot....i know its slower but it seems to be more affordable...so any info would be appreciated

[guinea13]

I have seen a couple of air powered jacks on ebay that may fit your need.


Manning,

That is a sick machine. I wish I had one.

[rocraven]

Originally posted by Manning
sweet, thanks for the link.

here's my buildup (http://www.bol.ucla.edu/~gearhead) so far

Have you tried your plan yet?
I have a similar pump and tried it with a 2" ram. NO GO.
So I now have a 4" ram and it works great.

[Moab Austin]

Originally posted by Manning
the control valve is a Cross SBA2, P#BA11AG3EAO 131135. It's a 3 position, 4 way valve with a built in loadcheck, 2500 psi, 30 GPM, and adjustable relief valve. The brick is good for one double acting cylinder or bi-directional motor.

so its not electric?

[Manning]

Nay.

Originally posted by Moab Austin


so its not electric?

[WillisXJ]

Excellent tech everyone! I do have a couple questions:

1) Does anyone have cad or other drawings of the dies/followers with measurements? Preferably 1.75". My machining is cheap or free and I figured I'd see if they could make my dies and followers at the same time.

2) Does anyone have answers to the following quote?
Originally posted by Blitzed
Did you make the die? what was your ID of the die? We did some measuring on our old jd2 die and found them to be about .030 smaller than actual tube size I.E. 1.250 4.5CLR die was 1.220. we are drawing up a 1.5 5CLR die and have been discussing if it should be 1.5 or 1.470. It seems that have the tube press into the die would decrease deformation and hold a better OD. Any thought people? Or measurements?
So can anyone measure across their die to determine if the diameter of the die is smaller than the diameter of the tube? Also the follower, since I'd assume is not so tight since the tube must slide on it.

3) Are JD2 and Pro-Tools dies just mild steel? Machined from 2.5" plate possibly?

4) Also, would there be an issue leaving the die complete, 360*? I know I wouldn't need it, but I figure the only reason JD2 and PT cut the dies down is so they can get 2 dies from a 360* die (180/180 and 240/90), making each 360* die worth about $400. For the tube holder, I'd either weld on a loop, or make it bolt on.

My bender will most likely end up air over hydro for cost reasons. I'm trying to build a $700 bender on a Harbor Freight pipe bender budget.

[cebby]

The questions keep coming...

I'm looking at these hydro units (http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/LLCategoryDisplayView?storeId=6970&langId=-1&catalogId=4006970&PHOTOS=on&TEST=Y&productId=481883&categoryId=1502) from Northern Tool. Some folks on the board here are using the manual version of this pump. What does the solenoid version of this pump offer? Can I just hook up a winch control, hoist control box, or foot pedal to this and call it a day? (Meaning no manual valve, but "push button" operation). Based on what others are doing, I'll be using a 3x24 cylinder with this setup.

Thanks!

[JCRover]

I'm looking at a 2.5" x 26" stroke ram (good price) is there any problems with using a 2.5" bore ram vs. the usual 3" bore. I noticed most use a 24" stroke, is there a problem or benifit from using a 26" stroke?
The ram is rated at 2500PSI, I haven't decided on the pump yet, but it seems that most pump power pack units have some type of pressure relief setting anyway.

[guinea13]

2 things you will want to keep in mind when using a 2.5" x 26 stroke ram.

1) The column load is going to be low. You may want to make sure that what you bending will not cause the ram to deform (it has happened, mainly with 2" bores).

What is the rod size?

2) Your rams tonnage rating is 6.63. That is not that much. Most setups using rams are 8 and up. I am running 15 (I love overengineering).

[79brcustom]

on the manual style bender what is the ratchet looking bar that the handle goes on and what does it do for the bender?

[guinea13]

That is what moves the moveable arm so that the bender will bend the tube.

Go to this link and click on the appropriate video mode that you have and you will see a video of them bending a tube using the rachet arm.

Model 3 bender video (http://mtechsales.com/cgi-bin/videoprompt.pl?bg=F0F0FF&basename=../../videos/BenderModel3&caption=Model%203%20Bender%20Video)

This is not used if you are making a hydraulic bender.

[79brcustom]

video link not working.
could i run my handle right on the movable arm or would that not work

[guinea13]

No, you can not generate the leverage needed to move the arm.

[guinea13]

Here is a pic.

[79brcustom]

do you have a pic of the rachet arm or a diagram on how it works i need one for my bender, might want to make one if i know how it works, thanks

[guinea13]

Go to http://www.mtechsales.com/

click on the upper left corner where is says
Tubing Benders

Click on the link that says
Manual, Hydraulic and Gear-driven Tube Benders, Pipe Benders & Tubing Benders

The first bender is a JD2 Model 3 Manual / Hydraulic Bender

You will see a link there to see a video of it in action, CLick it.

It will open another window and then you will choose which of the 6 media files you would like to see, If have cable, choose the cable one. If not choose the dial up one. If you have media player then choose that one else choose the real player one. If you don't have any of the players, you can download them there.

That is the best way for you to see what is going on.

[Manning]

here's the final cad model, sans dies. shiet it is 4:30am and my 3 dude team just finished assembling and mating the parts in solidworks. fawk i'm pooped. too bad this pretty picture cant bend tubes yet.

http://www.manningbilt.com/etc/04bender.jpg

http://www.manningbilt.com/etc/castors.jpg

http://www.manningbilt.com/etc/pump.jpg

http://www.manningbilt.com/etc/cv.jpg

[guinea13]

Nice, Make sure to add extra support to the bender mounting arms. Also at the rear where the cylinder mounts.

Those casters are kind of overboard. But very nice.

[DanB]

Originally posted by guinea13
Good luck, It will take you a while to make a single bend but if that is the way you want to go, go for it.

Thanks also has to go to GearGrinder for the drawings. And I still owe him a :beer:.

When is someone going to owe me a :beer: for all this info.

well when i go to sc or if you come up to bc canada will give u the :beer: :beer: :beer:

btw my buddy said he will machine one more plate for me whew.. havent talked to him for a while.. heres extra picture i just added (at www.oversizedbastards.com/bender.html )

and so far looks like im going to buy the die instead of making my own.. but will see what my machine shop buddy says..

looks like they are made from cast iron (that is what he said..) and he doesnt have the melting process... but from lookin at few pics looks like its not cast..

[guinea13]

Originally posted by DanB


well when i go to sc or if you come up to bc canada will give u the :beer: :beer: :beer:


Damn, I wish I knew. I was in BC last month on business.

[DanB]

if u do come here again let me know :)

take care

will post more pics of the project soon as i can

[Moab Austin]

ok math guru's I am used to a jd2 modle 4, I want to add a degree ring to hausfeld bender.

how do I determine how far apart to make each degree notch on a given circle?

for instance in a 10 inch circle how far apart do each line go for degrees?

[Shane]

Originally posted by Moab Austin
how do I determine how far apart to make each degree notch on a given circle?Calculate the circumference of the circle and divide by 360.

[cebby]

Shane - did you get your bender in yet?

[Shane]

Originally posted by cebby
Shane - did you get your bender in yet? Yep, bent up my shock hoops today. :D Gotta add the tabs and weld them in tomorrow.

[RokHeep]

Originally posted by Manning
here's the final cad model, sans dies. shiet it is 4:30am and my 3 dude team just finished assembling and mating the parts in solidworks. fawk i'm pooped. too bad this pretty picture cant bend tubes yet.

http://www.manningbilt.com/etc/04bender.jpg

Damn! That looks EXACTLY like mine. I like it! :smokin: :beer: Nice Job!

[brimy311]

i bought a used pump at a local shop(kinda local 70 miles away)...anyways...anyone have any problems getting there pump to prime???? mine is not pumping anything....:confused:

[Toddy]

Anybody have any trouble with the bender shifting when you bend? I set mine up just like most other peoples and my whole bender wants to twist before it starts to bend the tube. I added a plate to the back side of the bender to keep it from moving but i am gonna have to redo it cause it is inconsisent in the bends.


Toddy

[guinea13]

Do you have enough of an angle at the point where the ram meets the moveable arm?

Can you post a pic of your bender?

[cebby]

Originally posted by Shane*
Yep, bent up my shock hoops today. :D Gotta add the tabs and weld them in tomorrow.

Where's the webcam? :p

[Shane]

Originally posted by cebby
Where's the webcam? :p It's been retired....:flipoff2:

[Toddy]

I think I have it more of an angle then most.


Toddy

[Toddy]

Here is the only pic I have. It is prob. like 10" behind the pin on the bender that the front of the ram is hooked to.


Toddy

[guinea13]

Do you have a top plate connecting the two rear mounting bolts on the Fixed arms?

Something like this:

[Toddy]

Nope dont have that plate. What does it do? I am gonna redo the whole thing prob. after we get done with this cage.


Toddy

[guinea13]

Originally posted by 71RCKCRZR RYAN
nice:cool:

you should definatly brace the top of the bolts where it is mounted.....betwwen the weight on the ram hanging on the bender when its opened and the force it takes to bend tubing it will move around a tad...

;)

This is why I braced it. This may be the reason that yours moves.

[Manning]

here's or progress so far. the car is about done and the power unit and ram are on the way.

http://www.manningbilt.com/etc/P2200014 (Small).JPG

[guinea13]

Look'in good.

[Manning]

Here's a picture of our bender mocked up. Since JD2 dies are backordered past our deadline, we will be fabbing dies using the waterjet, CNC, and lathe.

Anyone have dimensions for a 6" radius die to bend 1 1/4" tubing? Or nearby Los Angeles i can borrow dies to dimension over the weekend, of course for a case of brew?

http://www.manningbilt.com/bender/P3040002 (Small).JPG

[guinea13]

I have been meaning to get you some more pics but damn people keep bothering me.

[DanB]

im interested in getting measurment for the dies since my buddy who works at machine shop might can make them for me.. crossing my fingers.. before he could do that he would need the measurment for everything..

hope someone can pass that along..

so i can save $$$ more money spent on the project

for 1.75 die preferable..

[Manning]

Hey Dan-
I will take a screen shot of the AutoCAD drawing i am following to machine the (2 piece) radius die. The process of machining will be 1. roughing circular profile and drilling out pivot main pin hole. 2. drilling and counterboring holes to bolt 3/4" plates together. 3. EDM circular profile (6.5"-1/16") 4. CNC elliptical profile of tubing 5. remove 120* of the die

The follower die, however, will be made of 2" thick steel, and will be similar to the ProTools 2 piece unit, instead of a continuous block. As long as there is plenty of unbent tubing protruding from the bender it will work.

[DanB]

perfect and i was thinking of making 240 degree die.. since that one can bend up to 180 degree (due to springback)

i know i dont need that much but why not have it ready.. incase someone wants to make a rack or something and can look nice with 180 degree or something..

[Wazzobie]

It probably says in this thread some where, but I didn’t remember seeing it IM looking for the amount of tons of PSI the ram needs to be comparable of in order to bend .120 wall 1.75 tube. Would a 20 ton system be plenty enough using an MTECH #5 bender or not?:confused:

thanks
Dan

[broncman]

20 ton is good...

[Manning]

our bender is done...
the aluminum radius die isnt fully functional yet, but we were able to bend 1" tubing (thanks FaultLine Fab) beautifully.

http://www.manningbilt.com/bender/26902721.IMG_4224Large (Small).jpg

Thanks to pirate tech.. and especially Vince, Wolf, and FaultLine Fab.

[guinea13]

Looks great man. I am glad that pump worked for ya. Sorry I could be much help. Haven't been on the board in a while. Bin very busy.

[Wazzobie]

I want to convert a 6hp 22Ton log splitter to push my MTECH #5 is there somthing IM over looking?

[CJBoxer]

I was thinking about doing the same thing, seems you would need an electric motor (unless you wanted the noise and smell of a gas motor) :D and maybe a different cylinder like everyone else is using 3 x 24.


Originally posted by Wazzobie
I want to convert a 6hp 22Ton log splitter to push my MTECH #5 is there somthing IM over looking?

[CJBoxer]

Manning, how is that DC motor and pump working for you, how long to fully extend under load.

[Manning]

CJBoxer-
The Fenner powerpack is working great. There are adjustable relief valves for up/down (extension/retraction) and we have it set at about 30 seconds/stroke for the 3x24" ram. The remote control valve is sweet.

[guinea13]

Originally posted by Manning
CJBoxer-
The Fenner powerpack is working great. There are adjustable relief valves for up/down (extension/retraction) and we have it set at about 30 seconds/stroke for the 3x24" ram. The remote control valve is sweet.

I told you that thing rocks.

[cebby]

I finally got together with my buddy that has a hydro cutter tonight. I told him I wanted to go at least 3/4" for the arms. He mentioned he could run them with a job where he's cutting 1" plate. Is this too beefy? I figured I'd just make some longer pins. I thought this would be OK, I'd never exceed the capacity of the thing that way. If he does the 1" they'll likely be free. If 3/4", I've gotta buy the plate. Will the 1" be OK?

[guinea13]

Yes, that will be fine. But damn that is over kill by alot. All pins, sleeves, bolts will have to be longer and you may have problems sliding the pins through the holes because of slight offsets in the holes when drilling.

[Mr Wuffles]

This is an excellent thread:)

But does anyone have the measurements of the die and follower? It cost more than the actual dies to get them shipped here:(

I was looking at using an Enerpac High Pressure Hydraulic Power Pack with an Inbuilt High Pressure Pump & Reservoir

40,000 PSI

2,800 Bar Max

Enerpac RD-166

Cyl 16T D/A Prodn

Do you think this would work?

Thanks Nick :)

[Mr Wuffles]

One more question

guinea13,

What are the dimensions of the top of your bender that everything mounts to?

[rokcrln]

Well here is the start of my conversion. I am using one of my Knack box's to house my pump on one side and the four drawer's on the other hold all my dies and misc. parts. I plan on mounting my control under the top of the box and just have the handle come through. Should have it done in a few weeks, hard to work on it when I'm doing 80hrs plus a week.:(

[cebby]

What pump are you using?

[rokcrln]

It is a 1hp 2500psi northern ac hydro power unit (item #105871 $389.00)

[Manning]

hey guys, here's are the dimensions of the die i had machined. it is for 1 1/4" tubing, 5.5" radius die.

Give me a few days.. after finals i will modify them for 1 3/4" tubing.

http://www.manningbilt.com/bender/dies.jpg

[DanB]

fawkin sweet stuff.. going to pass along this to my friend and see what he thinks
hopefully he can make me dies instead of buying expensive ones

thanks bunch for the drawings

[Mr Wuffles]

Cheers manning thats excellent would you be able to do one for 2"? :rolleyes: :) How did you go about making the die follower?

[guinea13]

Originally posted by Mr Wuffles
One more question

guinea13,

What are the dimensions of the top of your bender that everything mounts to?

If I am right they are 5'L x 6"W - 1/4 C-channel steel.
I made it so that the hydraulic cylinder and the fixed arms could be mounted directly to the table to add stability.

[Flat50]

Hi Guys, great thread.

Manning: your design looks great. A thought occurs to me. You have your stationary arms mounted to two plates. If the parts are laser or waterjet cut, it would be easy to just make the stationary arms much longer so they actually become the bench/ram mount instead of bolting the standard arms to separate plates. What do you think?

Does anyone have a set of cad drawings they can share with me of the arms, and/or degree wheel? I want to come up with a definitive design and get the parts laser cut. The laser can actually etch the degree markings on the wheel before it cuts them out. I will be able to run parts for others if the design works out well.

How thick should the arms be? I'm thinking 1/2" would be plenty beefy.

I notice that some of the stationary arms are parallel to the bench and some are at a slight angle. What is the best angle to mount them?

Thanks for any help.

[geargrinder]

Originally posted by Flat50

Does anyone have a set of cad drawings they can share with me of the arms, and/or degree wheel? I want to come up with a definitive design and get the parts laser cut. The laser can actually etch the degree markings on the wheel before it cuts them out. I will be able to run parts for others if the design works out well.


I made the original cad drawings that guinnea13 used to cut his arms. I have them in .dgn (sorry I only have Microstation) or can export them to a .dxf or .dwg. Let me know what format you want and I can email it to you.

[Flat50]

Thanks for the offer. I too am a long time Microstation user. Not too many of us around, but thats what I learned on, and now I cant pick up Autocad to save my life. Anyway, any files you have would be appreciated.

I am getting closer. I found a 2hp 220V powerpack yesterday for $230 slightly used. Now I am searching for bending software.

I dont know if you saw the thread I started when I was looking for other dxf files, but it turned out pretty good. I found 14B and D60 diff cover rings, 14B disk brake conversion brackets and spacers, D60 high steer arm, and 203 to 205 doubler adapter plates (which I drew). I have the files zipped and available for download. The link is about 1/2 way down the first page here:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=199247

[rockmup]

I to could use the Deg. wheel if any one has it. Thanks

[guinea13]

I have some pics on the my website of the degree wheel. You could print them out and use as a template. Also, The drawings are also on the web. I think I still have the cad files and will post those also on the web site.

Here is the link:

www.exm.netfirms.com


Click on the tube bender (tech) link. and then follow the pics from there.

[Flat50]

Got the files, thanks. I am going to cut the parts out of 5/8" plate this week.

Would something like this work?

http://www.axxustech.com/jeep/bender1.jpg

[Flat50]

Since I have free use of our CNC lasers, I thought I might try to make a laminated die. It may mark up the tube a bit, but then again, once it has lost its sharp edges, it may be ok. Will make it out of mild steel. Here is one 5.5" CLR for 1.75" tube. Top, mid, and bottom are 1/4 plate, and the rest are 1/8 plate. Not having used or even seen a bender like this, I dont really know what will or wont work. I just know I like the price.

edit: Another method would be to oversize the OD of the plates just slightly and bring them to final size on a lathe for a smooth finish.

http://www.axxustech.com/jeep/laminated_die.jpg

[guinea13]

Originally posted by Flat50
Got the files, thanks. I am going to cut the parts out of 5/8" plate this week.

Would something like this work?

http://www.axxustech.com/jeep/bender1.jpg

I don't see why not. There are many similar designs like that. They aren't 5/8 thick all the way across. But yours will be alot stoughter.

[Brian1]

Okay I have a question about my Barnes AC powerpack. When I first set it up and turned it on it was working. Then the ram quit moving (mid stroke) and the motor made a buzzing sound. I turned it off and worked the valve in and out to relieve built up pressure. Turned it on again and it worked but then started doing the same thing-buzzing of the motor and no movement. Now all it does is buzz when turned on like the motor has too much of a load on it to start.

What could be wrong? Would adjusting the relief valves fix the problem? As viewed from the tank end there are three ports on the left side, the top two ports appear to be relief valves. On the right side of the pump body are two ports, the top appearing to be a relief valve and the bottom port plugged with a recessed allen head fitting. How do you adjust them and which ones? I dont have any manuals with it. Thanks for any help.

[Manning]

It sounds like you just arent getting enough current to the motor. What is the source rating and how are you powering it?

[Brian1]

Originally posted by Manning
It sounds like you just arent getting enough current to the motor. What is the source rating and how are you powering it?

Source rating, I dont really know but it should be good enough for the motor. It is running on 120v and no matter what plug I use in the garage it does what I described above. It has a cord, dont remember what guage but it is a 3 wire cord with braided copper. That goes to a switch mounted on my bender stand. This I think may be the problem. It is a switch I had laying around the shop, it is rated for 120v and 15 amps. Is the 15 amps enough for startup and when the motor is loaded up? From the switch junction box I ran Nomex line to the motor junction. It is wired to the motor the way it should be as verified by an electric motor place and from Barnes Haldex.

[guinea13]

Not to be mean but do you know for sure that everthing is connected correctly (hose lines, valve, etc...). I think someone had posted a similar question and he had a hose connected incorrectly on the valve.

[Brian1]

Originally posted by guinea13
Not to be mean but do you know for sure that everthing is connected correctly (hose lines, valve, etc. )

Well I had a hydro shop do the plumbing for me since my dad knows the owner and got me a good deal. They may have put the pressure line on the wrong port on the pump. I was looking at a pump diagram tonight and it looks like I need to move the line over 1 port. I will try it tomorrow and hopefully it will work.

[Wazzobie]

So you guys have probably been playing with these 12V setups for a little while now, how fast will the battery go dead using this type of pump set up? This One (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2575592161&category=41484&rd=1)
Say I would be using a single Interstate MTP65 battery. Bending 1.75 .120 mild steel about how many bends before the batt's dead?

Dan

[guinea13]

I have done a couple dozen bends without the battery going dead at all. Although I put the biggest battery I could find in it. I think it has like 980 CCA. I did put it on the charger after all those bends and it wasn't dead.

I haven't found a max of number of bends verse battery life. If you make about a dozen or so bends stick the battery on a charger and keep going. I think I am going to start leaving the charger on when I bend depending on how many I think I will be making.

[Wazzobie]

Coolhttp://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/icons/icon14.gif thats exactly what I wanted to know:beer:

[DanB]

hey flat50 let me know when u are making the degree wheel :) im the same guy who emailed u a while ago.. when i couldnt post for some reason..

also why dont you get a 2 inch solid steel then use lathe instead of the way you were showing wtih lots of 1/4 plates.. i dont think it would be that strong.. lots of stress will might make it bent..

im no engineer so dont ask me..


also btt for this thread.. it should be sticky first place :)

[Brian1]

Well I fixed my problem for now, I put a 30amp switch on it. I backed the relief valves out yesterday to lower the pressure and it turned on and was working for a few seconds then pop and smoke started coming from the switch box. The 15amp switch couldnt handle it I guess. With the 30amp switch it is working good and I screwed the relief valves back in.

Here a few pics of my bender:

http://home.comcast.net/~42gpw/Bender/benderprofile.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~42gpw/Bender/benderfront.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~42gpw/Bender/benderprofile2.jpg

[cebby]

I like that setup! Whose dies are you using?

[Brian1]

Originally posted by cebby
I like that setup! Whose dies are you using?

Thanks.

Pro-tools dies, the bender is a 105HD as well

[guinea13]

Glad to hear you got it working.

[cebby]

I'm looking at 1.75" 180 deg dies. They (JD2) have 5.5, 6.5, and 7.5 radius. What is everyone using? I would think the tighter, the better? What's the consensus?

[rokcrln]

My 1" is 3.5"R
1.5" is 4.5"R
1.75 is 5.5"R
and 2" is 6.5"R All JD2 as well.

[guinea13]

Mine is a 1 3/4 5.5 . I have done a lot of reseach and this is the one I have sen alot of people using.

[geargrinder]

Hey all, I have sent that CAD drawing to several people. I am moving and have my computer packed up. Can someone send the drawing to a member called Kurtastrophe? Thanks.

GG

:)

[DanB]

im interested in that one.. what does it inculde?? just the bender arms? if so i have one.. (not from that one.. but the one from guiena i have it in my living room (the bender) looks awesome.. except i have to make the table and use air over hydro jack and get the die.. $$$$

[geargrinder]

That is the one. I did the the drawing for Guinea13.



:)

[guinea13]

I have put the CAD drawings on my web page:
Link is:
http://www.exm.netfirms.com/Bender/Diagrams.htm

Download the zip file and extract.

Warning: I have not verified the measurements on the CAD files. The pictures on that same link have all the right measurements. It is up to you to verify the CAD file to those drawing.

[geargrinder]

Thanks guinea13.

The measurements are the same, but when I was placing the text in the CAD file I called out all the holes with a R=XX, they should all be D=XX. You fixed the jpeg that you posted. Just change the R's to D's. Happy bending.

[guinea13]

That is why I told people to check the drawings before using them. I don't have an editor but will try to find one and correct the CAD file.

[cebby]

I'll forward the corrected one back to you G.

[guinea13]

Thanks got the email, Now the right CAD drawings are on my site.

http://www.exm.netfirms.com/Bender/Diagrams.htm

[Kurtastrophe]

I just downloaded and verified the CAD files.... They look good.

Time to fire up the waterjet and make a set :D

[NOT76]

Another hydro bender: It's been a while since I put it together but just finally got a digital camera so I thought I'd share. This thread was a great help. I played with the ram a while and ended up with more angle at the bender that most I saw here. I haven't decided how I want the die storage so it still needs a middle shelf. Anyways here's a link to the pics. Thanks to all for the info.
http://www.binderbulletin.org/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2901
and
http://www.binderbulletin.org/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2900

[THURENfab.]

Here's mine......... Small, strong, and compact...... :)

[HI C]

TTT

I am interested in doing a similar setup using hossfeld # 2 style bender. I am wondering if someone with a #2 can run some numbers for me, or if willing just the take them and send them to me that would work also. Please contact me by email or PM, if you can help.

[Flat50]

Got the files, thanks. I am going to cut the parts out of 5/8" plate this week.

Would something like this work?

http://www.axxustech.com/jeep/bender1.jpg


Got the bendomatic done. Have a look here:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=266131

[guinea13]

Nice job man!

[Manning]

http://off-roadweb.com/tech/0402or_bashguard08_z.jpg

Here's another one, M-Tech Supply electric tube bender, 110V source.

http://off-roadweb.com/tech/0402or_bashguard09_z.jpg

[MCgiver4x4]

this its a great tread :D

my tube bender its in fabrication
for now i get the arms flame cutted (5/8) and took to te machine shop to make the holes (the water jet its so spensive for me here in mexico the charge for each sq plg its 2.5 dlls not included the cost for the metal
sooo isnt cost effective for this project)

do this I choose cut the arms and then machining to be between tolerances
(also the machinist its a friend of mine so he will doit for a beer and pizza )
do this im not worry about the cost of machining and because im in on a short budget not going hydro for now

i know some of you that have convert to hidraulic still have it the drive bar and not ill use any more

ill want to get a drive bar from one of you or also could be a cad , draw , template or any thing that could guide me to fabricate the drive bar

also if you have a worn die (i think its how you called) the one that scratch the tube when do the bend ill interested in buy some of these im not worry about scratches in my bended tubes

please help this C-H-B-G (Cheap Bastard Guy)

Thanks

PS. Ill check the tread for offers or coments or could emailme at harleybooy@hotmail.com

[cebby]

My JD2 Model 3 showed up today. (My waterjet cutting connection has been less than reliable - I got frustrated and said screw it and just ordered from JD2) Partial ship bender and 2" die only arrived. More stuff coming.

I'm going hydro off the bat, so I'll have a drive bar available.

BTW - I came across some PDF instructions on the net. Anyone interested - PM me with your EM addy.

[cebby]

I'm following Jay K's homebrew hydro setup for the most part. I've got all the Northern stuff ordered, but I'm having a tough time locating the Caterpillar parts and the Haldex plug. Anyone have a cross reference for these parts by another manufacturer?

[Vermin]

I used Jay's site as a reference as well. I ended running down to a local hydraulics store with my hoses and stuff and showed them what I needed to fit together and they hooked me up. You wont find the Cat parts..

[DanB]

hey guys, here's are the dimensions of the die i had machined. it is for 1 1/4" tubing, 5.5" radius die.

Give me a few days.. after finals i will modify them for 1 3/4" tubing.

http://www.manningbilt.com/bender/dies.jpg

anyone has simlar cad files as this die..

a guy i know is going to start making bunch of them i beleive and will get prices for you guys..

so hope someone can share those info..

[James_Fendley]

Pulling up this thread again. :flipoff2:

Sorry I needed it.

[hotcowboy76]

OK well since its back up does any one have any info on air cylinders instead of hydro? I just read the whole thread and a few people run them but say they are slower. Would you use the same dimensions for the ram?

[cebby]

Glad this came back up. :flipoff2:

I have all the parts collecting dust in my garage. Time to get off my ass and build this Mo Fo!

[scottiebobbie]

my .02 cents.....copied jay k parts list except for the cylinder (got it from surplus center) and had a local shop make the lines. works damn good
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid157/pc54ca09321c82cd7760307084716e1f1/f52840fa.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid157/p34d6f0a47b0b077b0315324367d36ab8/f5283e33.jpg

[1RUSTYRIG]

Scottiebobbie- Do you have a side view of that?

[ElPasoEric2005]

hotcowboy, air cylinders will not make enough pressure, I think you mean air over hydraulic pumps.

[cebby]

Can you take a close up of where the cylinder attaches to the A-frame? Thanks!

[scottiebobbie]

i'll try yo get some pics before the weekend

[cebby]

Any pics yet. I've got a hankering to burn some steel this weekend...

[scottiebobbie]

sorry it took so long
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid158/p8584446061b1fa5a9d5a68606222619b/f50bdbf5.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid158/p811fc06b49420dd68b55d409324f5b09/f50bdbce.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid158/p811fc06b49420dd68b55d409324f5b09/f50bdbce.jpg

[1RUSTYRIG]

I see red x's

[cebby]

I see red x's

I don't even see that...

[cebby]

OK, I finally got off my ass and got this thing underway.

The main support is 6" ship channel, legs cut out of 1 1/2 x 2 rectangular tube, planning an expanded steel deck for "stuff" and posts to mount all the dies on.

I mounted up the stationary arms on the channel and am now trying to figure out where the static end of the ram should be mounted. Should it be angled a little so there's no bind? Or will the movement of the ram overcome any bind (mount it parallel to the channel)? Obviously the goal is getting the maximum radius I can get in one shot...

I plan to plate around the JD2 arm mount and will have a nice beefy mount for the end of the ram.

http://assets.corequipment.com/shop%20tools/tube%20bender/Bender%20Buildup%20008%20(Medium).jpg

http://assets.corequipment.com/shop%20tools/tube%20bender/Bender%20Buildup%20009%20(Medium).jpg

And yes, i know my garage is a freakin' mess, so zip it... :flipoff2:

[Rock Ape]

Move the ram(stationary end)so it will get a little more angle on the moveable end.If you dont they tend to bind and try to rip the bender off of its mount.Do you have a top plate that is going on that???If not you might want to add one, the pressure of the ram may flex those 6-7inch long bolts that mount your bender to the lower plate.Giving you a harder time making consistent bends.Just my .02 cents

[cebby]

Move the ram(stationary end)so it will get a little more angle on the moveable end.If you dont they tend to bind and try to rip the bender off of its mount.Do you have a top plate that is going on that???If not you might want to add one, the pressure of the ram may flex those 6-7inch long bolts that mount your bender to the lower plate.Giving you a harder time making consistent bends.Just my .02 cents

I have the die pin up against the stationary arm. In reality, will it start the bend out a little from where it is shown?

I was planning to weld some 1/4" plate around the mount for the stationary arms (a la Jay K's writeup). Would I be better off doing a plate that connects the rear point of the ram and the mounting? I want this mo fo to be bulletproof.

Here's a pic from Jay K's writeup:

http://www.mindspring.com/~jayk5/bender/jbender10.jpg

I'll fit the follower and make sure the plate fits before I weld it on... :D

[jeepn4life]

is that ram air powered, where did you get it...

[cebby]

is that ram air powered, where did you get it...

Not air over hydro, just a regular hydro ram from Northern Tool.

P/N 909224 - Cylinder, 3 x 24 Double Acting

[jeepn4life]

Here is a pic of mine. It now has a handle and two wheels like fleckster's. When it is level the tubing notcher is also plumb. The cylinder cost me $70 at harbor freight and it does 50 something degree's in one shot. My 2hp 30 gallon compressor can keep up with it just fine. (its and air/oil cylinder)


do you have a part number for that cylinder

[MC]

http://e-pipebenders.com/images/Huth/HB-10.jpg
http://e-pipebenders.com/images/Benpearson/MC59.jpg
http://e-pipebenders.com/images/Bendpak/Blue-Bullet.jpg


..............Wouldnt it be nice

[Rock Ape]

http://e-pipebenders.com/images/Huth/HB-10.jpg
http://e-pipebenders.com/images/Benpearson/MC59.jpg
http://e-pipebenders.com/images/Bendpak/Blue-Bullet.jpg


..............Wouldnt it be nice
I hate to tell you this those arent tube benders those are crimp style benders used for exhaust ,not cages.They have lots of distortion in the bend.I know of a blazer built locally with a cage built like that.Can you say ROCK STAR!!!

[cebby]

I was planning to weld some 1/4" plate around the mount for the stationary arms (a la Jay K's writeup). Would I be better off doing a plate that connects the rear point of the ram and the arm mounting? I want this mo fo to be bulletproof.

Any thoughts on this? I've seen it both ways (bracing around the mounts and a full length plate)

What's the popular opinion on this?

[Rock Ape]

I know I read some where in this thread about a bender mounted like yours and the problems they were having,I built mine with two plates just because thats how most of the other ones I have seen are.I have not had any problems bending 2 inch .120down to 1 inch .120 wall.Just my.02

[jeepn4life]

how did you make the plates? did you just drill them out or did you have a mill or a cnc...

[Rock Ape]

I clamped them together made an 1/8inch pilot hole then took them apart and drilled out to 3/4inch.I reused the original (2)bender mounting bolts and bought a third grade 8 7inchx3/4inch bolt to mount the stationary end of the ram.

[FastScan]

Im building up my bender now for hydro power. I picked up an AC motor and pump off ebay. I cant find any info on the pump though. I was told it is a two stage pump and it looks like there are two outputs which I assume one is a high flow low pressure and the other might be a low flow high pressure?

Anyone know about this config and the best way to plumb it up?

http://www.abernard.net/misc/pump01.jpg
http://www.abernard.net/misc/pump03.jpg
http://www.abernard.net/misc/pump02.jpg

[ToddRH]

Just spent 2 hours reading this thread, felt it was difinatly worthy of a bump, especially since the UPS guy is bringing me a JD2 and some dies tomorrow. :D

[jstarnes]

Im building up my bender now for hydro power. I picked up an AC motor and pump off ebay. I cant find any info on the pump though. I was told it is a two stage pump and it looks like there are two outputs which I assume one is a high flow low pressure and the other might be a low flow high pressure?

Anyone know about this config and the best way to plumb it up?


some times those pumps pump out of 1 "out" untill a specific pressure then both kick in


most of them will pump high flow then high pressure

I will look at the way a few are plumbed today and report back

[cebby]

Here's my update:

A step in the right direction:

http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/Hydro%20Frame%20005%20(Medium).jpg

http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/Hydro%20Frame%20004%20(Medium).jpg

http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/Hydro%20Frame%20003%20(Medium).jpg

The hardest part of this process (besides finding the time lately :rolleyes: ) was drilling some of the holes. I have a drill press and sharp bits, but damn that steel is thick (and heavy!).

Here's the short of it so far:

- Bottom is 6" Ship Channel cut to 42" long.

- Top plate is 3/8" plate also cut to 42", notched to clear the bolt on the end of the ram.

- Stationary end of the ram has two pieces of ship channel welded together in an "H" and welded to the top of the ship channel. This is the same height as the assembled stationary part of the bender arms. (around 5 1/4" IIRC)

- Top plate will be welded to the "H" and plated/welded around the stationary end of the bender arms.

- Ram is attached with 1" Bolts. Bolt is sleeved at stationary end (sleeves welded to channel and plate)

The stand is next - it will have die storage, of course the pump, and a shelf for other stuff.

[maddog]

OK, I skipped through most part of the thread and I read in one reply that you have invested $500+ electrical? But how many HOURS did it take you to where you are now?

[scottiebobbie]

tried posting these a while back and they did not show??????? but i'll try again
http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.php?u=10000FyFV5&i=57457
http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.php?u=10000FyFV5&i=57458

[guinea13]

OK, I skipped through most part of the thread and I read in one reply that you have invested $500+ electrical? But how many HOURS did it take you to where you are now?


Are you asking me?

I had about 20 - 30 hours in it. The arms where machined at my work via a cnc. Most of the time was filing, fitting and welding supports on it.

[maddog]

Are you asking me?

I had about 20 - 30 hours in it. The arms where machined at my work via a cnc. Most of the time was filing, fitting and welding supports on it.

Timewise that's not bad at all. It sure gives a certain satisfication of building something yourself. Great work.

[Hanr3]

I just spent the past 2 days reading this thread. I forgot half the shiet I read yesterday and need to read it again. Brain overload. :D

Anyways,
Since some of you have been using this for a while now. What, if anything, would you change?

[guinea13]

I just spent the past 2 days reading this thread. I forgot half the shiet I read yesterday and need to read it again. Brain overload. :D

Anyways,
Since some of you have been using this for a while now. What, if anything, would you change?


I would move the front legs back some behind the die the more. They get in the way when I go to make 2nd or 3rd bends. Actually I am going to move them.

Other than that it works great. And I use the piss out it.

[cebby]

I would move the front legs back some behind the die the more. They get in the way when I go to make 2nd or 3rd bends. Actually I am going to move them.

Other than that it works great. And I use the piss out it.

How far back will you move them? I haven't attached the legs to mine yet but will be doing it soon.

[throttleboy]

rockape and i built this one in about 3.5 hours,cost right at $600 minus bender and tube.will bend 105 degree with out repining and will bend a 90 in 2".120 wall in about 20 seconds!!

[guinea13]

How far back will you move them? I haven't attached the legs to mine yet but will be doing it soon.

About a foot or so behind the center die pin.

[Sapper]

Okay just curious if anyone controls thier motor via a microswitch for the degree ring? You would have to have the switch controling a relay for the motor but it should work well for precise bends or repeat bends.

Also after reading the thread I have seen a few pressure and GPM numbers what is the min for PSI and GPM? I am going to be looking at pumps tommorrow and will probally end up buying on if the price is right.

I notice that most people seem to be using 3X24X1.5 rams or close to it anyone useing something different? I have a Pro-tools 105HD and I think that may be perfect for me?

[guinea13]

Was going to do the microswitch idea but didn't have time and wanted to start bending. But is still on the table.

As for GPM and pressure I would say at around 1 GPM and pressure 2200 PSI. But this really doesn't mean much because you need to figure out what ram you are going to use (bore size, stroke, pressure it can handle). From there it will tell you how much Tonage it will push. If I am right I calculated that 8 tons of force would the minimum I would use. I went overboard. My setup can push up to 15 ton. The pump pushes 3.5 GPM unloaded and loaded it is 1.25 GPM (at full load) at 3200 PSI (which can be turned down). Cylinder is a Prince 3" bore 24 stroke 3000 PSI (the high PSI rate is what got me the 15 tons of force).

Hope this helps.

[Wazzobie]

a few pics of how I did mine, I still need to reroute the hoses since I moved the bender 90* from my originaly plan that didnt have enough clearance for multi bend pieces.
It works good but I havent made the time to use it since the build :laughing:

http://www.molalla.net/~danauto/shop/bender1.jpg
http://www.molalla.net/~danauto/shop/bender2.jpg

[cebby]

She's got legs...

http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/Legs001%20(Medium).jpg

http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/Legs003%20(Medium).jpg

http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/Legs007%20(Medium).jpg

I was going to make a shelf underneath the pump shelf, but I like the idea of being able to stand in close to this thing if need be. I've decided to make the die storage kind of hang down from the shelf where I'll have pins welded to it to slip in the dies and followers. This will also keep the weight nice and low to balance when I have a heavy stick I'm bending.

[cebby]

Here's progress from last night:

http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/Progress519%20001%20(Medium).jpg

http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/Progress519%20003%20(Medium).jpg

http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/Progress519%20005%20(Medium).jpg

http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/Progress519%20009%20(Medium).jpg

http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/Progress519%20010%20(Medium).jpg

[cebby]

Got a few questions:

For the hydro fittings, (newbie Q) am I to use pipe dope or thread tape on the threads? I tried searching, but I don't think I was using the right terminology...

I'm using the Haldex Barnes power unit like in Jay K's writeup and need a little info on the unit (lost directions :shaking: )

Which is the outlet port and which is the return? Here's a pic of the pump ports:

http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/Progress521%20009%20(Medium).jpg

I want to wire it for 110v, but the schematic on the motor is cryptic at best. Anyone sort this wiring out? Here's a pic of the schematic:

http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/pumpwiring%20002.jpg

And before some joker says Black is hot, White is the neutral and Green is ground... :flipoff2:

http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/Progress521%20003%20(Medium).jpg

[Devil Dog]

it looks as tho you have 4 wires coming off of that... so looking at the diagram p1 would be ground... T8 would be black... or your single phase in... and T5 would be your nuetral.... and by switching T5 and T8 all you are doing is switching the phase.. to change the rotation of the pump... from cw to ccw... if you hook this up to 230V you would run your second phase into P2.... that is what i am getting from that...

[cebby]

The only part I figured was that P1 was the ground. Devildog, what you posted makes alot of sense.

I'm confused on some of the coding on the motor. For my own knowledge, can someone decipher some of this? When it says "TAPE" on the schematic, what does this mean? Also, what does "LINE" mean? Are these codes on the schematic for some other type of use?

Oh, and *BUMP* for the hydro plumbing question I posted above. :D

[guinea13]

it looks as tho you have 4 wires coming off of that... so looking at the diagram p1 would be ground... T8 would be black... or your single phase in... and T5 would be your nuetral.... and by switching T5 and T8 all you are doing is switching the phase.. to change the rotation of the pump... from cw to ccw... if you hook this up to 230V you would run your second phase into P2.... that is what i am getting from that...


First of all I wouldn't run it CCW because of the pump. You don't know if the pump will like be run in CCW direction.

As for the connections.

I agree with Devil dog except for 230V. I think the two phase lines for the 230V are T5 and T4. I am assuming that T5 and T4 are different windings on the motor. In the pic for 115V T4 T5 and T2 are connected together. I am guessing that T2 is the capacitor to start the second winding? But am not sure. That pic is kind of stupid. It doesn't show specifically 2 lines for 230V. You may have to check there site for a diagram or something.

[cebby]

I plan to run it on 110v, unless there is some compelling reason to run it on 220. I like the idea of 110v so I can roll it outside and have some more room (via extension cord)

[cebby]

Anyone who is running the power unit that's the same as Jay K's writeup - a couple of questions.

Jay has some Caterpillar fittings listed, but no specs on what they are. These are the fittings that connect to the pump itself. I know there are a few different thread standards other than NPT used in hydro, but don't know enough about them to figure out what is what.

Anyone have an idea?

http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/hydrofittings-005%20(Medium).jpg

[desertCJ]

That's an O-ring fitting...

[guinea13]

Bring it to a hydro line shop and ask them. They probably will be better able to help you out. Can't really tell you much from a pic besides it is an O-Ring type fitting.

[Sapper]

Bring the plug to the hydro shop but it looks like a 3/8 NF ORB fitting.

[cebby]

I want to wire it for 110v, but the schematic on the motor is cryptic at best. Anyone sort this wiring out? Here's a pic of the schematic:

http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/pumpwiring%20002.jpg

http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/Progress521%20003%20(Medium).jpg

BTT - Got all the fittings and hoses worked out, but the electrical isn't working as suggested here.

P1 as Ground
T5 as Neutral
T8 as Hot

T2, T3, T4, and P2 are all taped off.

This combo doesn't work. All it does is buzz at me. (I grounded to the case - should this be just to the Grnd wire coming in and not the case maybe?)

I have it all full of fluid, ready to go. Should I leave the cap off the reservoir until the air is out of the system?

[cebby]

Here's some pics of it pretty much finalized:

Valve mounted up top. I drilled and tapped the top plate 5/16-18 and used socket head bolts. I slipped a rubber washed under each mounting point also. Did a similar mount for the pump.

http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/Hoses-Valve%20done%20002%20(Medium).jpg

http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/Hoses-Valve%20done%20003%20(Medium).jpg

I had to "customize" a wrench to tighten the fittings on the pump.

http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/Hoses-Valve%20done%20006%20(Medium).jpg

Here's the valve with all the hoses hooked up:

http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/Hoses-Valve%20done%20007%20(Medium).jpg

Here's a couple overall shots:

http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/Hoses-Valve%20done%20008%20(Medium).jpg

http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/Hoses-Valve%20done%20010%20(Medium).jpg

[cebby]

Well - for anyone having a problem wiring up the Haldex Barnes pump, here's a thread with the answer. Jackalope over on OFN ("gde" here) directed me to it here. THANK YOU!!!!

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=204382

P2, T3, T5 wire nutted together and left alone.

P1 connects to white wire from power supply (neutral)

T2, T4, T8 connects to hot leg (black wire) from power supply.

[cebby]

After a slight delay due to some wiring confusion (cryptic schematic on pump), it is up and running.

Here's a .wmv movie of it cycling (no tube to bend currently)

Right click and "save as"

320 x 240 (3mb) (http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/Cebby's%20Hydro%20Bender%20320x240.wmv)

640 x 480 (17mb) (http://rigs.corequipment.com/Cebby/Shoptools/Bender/Cebby's%20Hydro%20Bender%20640x480.wmv)

[Rokcrler]

Cebby that is one of the cleanest setups ive seen.... :beer:
You got a parts list for your setup?

[cebby]

Cebby that is one of the cleanest setups ive seen.... :beer:
You got a parts list for your setup?

Thanks for the compliment. I'm putting together a comprehensive writeup that I'll be posting up on my website. I'll post the addy when I have something up.

[Manning]

Hey Flat50- Your prediction was right. I was bending some 1.5" OD .25" wall DOM yesterday and my lower 1/2" bender arms pulled apart. It necked down at the die pin hole, then completely seperated. The upper stainless arms are now just warped to all heck. The way i have the arms, they arent really supported in double sheer, only reinforced by the upper plate that ties to the ram's rear clevis. So, NO, 1/2" arms are NOT strong enough with the JD2 design!

Now that this thread has resurfaced, does anyone still need CAD files for arms or dies?


Hi Guys, great thread.

Manning: your design looks great. A thought occurs to me. You have your stationary arms mounted to two plates. If the parts are laser or waterjet cut, it would be easy to just make the stationary arms much longer so they actually become the bench/ram mount instead of bolting the standard arms to separate plates. What do you think?

Does anyone have a set of cad drawings they can share with me of the arms, and/or degree wheel? I want to come up with a definitive design and get the parts laser cut. The laser can actually etch the degree markings on the wheel before it cuts them out. I will be able to run parts for others if the design works out well.

How thick should the arms be? I'm thinking 1/2" would be plenty beefy.

I notice that some of the stationary arms are parallel to the bench and some are at a slight angle. What is the best angle to mount them?

Thanks for any help.

[cebby]

Now that this thread has resurfaced, does anyone still need CAD files for arms or dies?

I'll host them if you want.

[guinea13]

Now that this thread has resurfaced, does anyone still need CAD files for arms or dies?


Yep, I still do.


http://www.exm.netfirms.com/Bender/Diagrams.htm

[guinea13]

Hey Flat50- Your prediction was right. I was bending some 1.5" OD .25" wall DOM yesterday and my lower 1/2" bender arms pulled apart. It necked down at the die pin hole, then completely seperated. The upper stainless arms are now just warped to all heck. The way i have the arms, they arent really supported in double sheer, only reinforced by the upper plate that ties to the ram's rear clevis. So, NO, 1/2" arms are NOT strong enough with the JD2 design!




Make them 3/4 like I did and never worry again (at least I hope I will not have to worry).

Sometimes overkill is good (not always but sometimes).

http://www.twistedfab.com/modules/coppermine/albums/userpics/10002/normal_Bender6.jpg

[teuflhundn]

Yep, I still do.


http://www.exm.netfirms.com/Bender/Diagrams.htm

x2

[Sapper]

Make them 3/4 like I did and never worry again (at least I hope I will not have to worry).

Sometimes overkill is good (not always but sometimes).

http://www.twistedfab.com/modules/coppermine/albums/userpics/10002/normal_Bender6.jpg


Will your CAD files except the pro-tool dies?

[guinea13]

Will your CAD files except the pro-tool dies?


No, They are modeled after the JD2 bender and if I am right the pro-tools don't dies won't fit. Now if I am wrong someone speak up.

[Manning]

The drawings i have are JD2 and M-tech compatible - but if someone can measure and dimensions the protools bender i'd be happy to modify them.

[Sapper]

What measurements to you need? I can take the measurements from My pro-tools 105HD.

[tdavis]

I got this unit:

Cheap pump (http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2005080100434183&item=9-6410&catname=hydraulic)

and a the prince ram just like Jay's Hydro Bender (http://www.mindspring.com/~jayk5/bender/) along with hose and control valve.

For those looking - Northern Tool changed a few of the fittings part numbers.

They are now:

51ARC008 - 90 deg 1/2" NPT elbow
51CSC128 - reducer bushing 3/4" M-NPTF to 1/2" F-NPTF

I got my o-ring and NPT swivel fittings from the Carquest in Vallejo.

The pump uses a o-ring on the output, and appears to use a NPT return.

No, I haven't done anything more with it at this time.

My current cart plans is different from what everyone else has posted - my driveway is level in one direction only, so I'm planning on going vertical with the bender and ram. I also need the ability to unbolt and lay it all flat for storage. I almost have more tools than garage space now.

I also believe this will make certain bends easier, for I will be able to simply level the tube with a bubble level straight up and down and bend away.