I have a 71 f100 4x4 pretty much stock few aftermarket goodies.It is just a trail rig. I want to build a mud bogger/all around 4x4 . I found several places that have organized mud boggs in california most are pits that are 4ft deep with 2.5" to 4" deep mud. I want to compete in these events but also want to be able to drive some of my favorite trails. I was told to buy a Ford F350 4x4. I would like to know what upgrades or options to build into this truck.I am searching for a F350 4x4. I know the 460/c-6/np205 is good and the D60/D70U difs, but what about the engine / tranny stuff like carbs,cams and torque converter stall speed? Tire size and how much lift ?How its been done and what works? Torque or HP? I have questions that probably arent listed here but ill start with these. Thanks to all that have sent me advice in the past like Proeliator and Tellico Racing you guys rock.

lockers and 38x11 boggers

build the 460 with a stealth intake, 4x4 extreme cam, and a 850 holley carb. Put a 3500rpm stall in the c-6, and a manual valve body, if your hell bent on a auto. I prefer a stick in my mud trucks, but thats just me.

38 Boggers!? 38s are for little girls :flipoff2: This man wants to be a competitive mud bogger. For that you need 44" Boggers. Of course, you'll need at least one ton running gear. I like the Dana 70u's in the rear for ground clearance. You can still snap front 60s with 44" Boggers (sad member of THAT club), but CTMS and superior shafts will fix that problem. Weld up custom ladder bars to limit axlewrap. Don't go with super stiff springs or shocks because they will beat you to death or even bounce you out of your bog lane. Rear mount radiator to keep it clean and working. Auxilary cooler for your C-6. This is the tranny you'll want to run, and go with at least a 2500rpm stall. Stick a spool in the rear and a locker in the front. Don't even try to competitive bog with open diffs....I've seen it and it isn't pretty.

Now, the engine. You'll need HUGE horsepower to make those Boggers work in deep mud. Okay, first off, I'd stick with cast iron heads. Why? Because you don't care about saving weight, they cost half the money, and I know a guy who can get Dove heads to WAY outperform any aluminum head out of the box. Also, you need to run higher compression with aluminum heads to get the same horsepower figures due to the thermal factors of aluminum, and you sound like you want to keep your compression down. Anyways, contact Scott Johnston at: http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/ He is a world class head porter and sells Dove heads ported and decked to your specifications. I run them myself. Top with roller rockers. He can also get you a custom cam ground for your engine. You are going to want a 10:5.1 compression motor. It will run off pump gas (premium), but will be a great performer. My formula is to stroke it (always the secret to huge numbers), keep it to a 514 for what you want...just make sure the pistons (say .30 over) give you 10:5.1 compression with the heads. Then theres the little stuff like throwing on a pre '72 dual roller timing set. All the later ones were 8 degrees retarded. Intakes? I prefer the bigger Stealth. Believe it or not that thing flows like crazy. A dominator would work good on this set up, or a demon. That should get you started, but talk to Scott cuz he can take care of pretty much most of your stuff.

Wait a minute......this is starting to sound like my truck!


:flipoff2:

he said a pit with 2.5" to 4" of mud, 44's will do nothing. Ive been doing mud bogs and drags for along time. In the 35" and under class the only two tires that will place is a 34x9 swamper, or a 33" buckshot.

For the bigger class, if your not running 38x11's your not even trying. Nothing else will touch them, 44's and 39.5's just plow to much mud, sure the make the pit, but a few seconds after everyone else.

hell, I beat a F-150 on 44's with a 460 two summers ago, driving a stock fj-40 on 34x9.50's.

Of course when you start talking about a pit that no one makes, all bets are off. But for anything only few feet deep, a 38x11 will be a few second faster than a 44.

mud drags = tall , narrow tires
38x11.50 boggers will work good (i've seen cj's with 350's in them and 38 boggers fly through the pits)

if you have big power then i'd run 39.5 swampers in front and 39.5 x 18 boggers in back or 44 and 44 whatever

also, as stupid as it may seem, ttb front ends are VERY effective in mud drags, because if you lift them without drop brackets, you can get great ground clearance under the front end. That and half ton junk will usualy hold up to a 38 in mud drags(its amazing what they take in a straight line)

fwiw, the best/fastest mud truck I've ever seen in a street class was a 92 ranger, with the stock dana 35 up front, and a 9" out back. Running 38x11's and a 700hp 435SCJ under the hood. Do the axles hold up for mud drags? yes. Would they hold up under trail conditions, hell no.

Most sucessfull mud truck i've seen?

Chevy S-10 on blazer frame, 454 huge horsepower 44" boggers, or a Yota with 39" tsl's w/ a built 350.

The way to be light, have huge horsepower and the right tires. Boggers are the best.

The rest(axles etc) just make sure nothign breaks.

Listenin to proeliator or talk to Jhama78 he runs in the mudbogs around here. Did very well with a little suzuki samurai with 35's.

What class do you wanna run in?

sorry for mistake.....the mud is deep I asked and they are running very deep...i just guessed on depth before i did not know it affected the build up. so deep pits and deep goo.

Mud- The bigges tires you can fit and not continually snap axles, the most power you can afford to build, and hold on tight...

The rest of it is just what can you put up with driving it:flipoff2:

Yea, I figured he meant four feet, which is plenty serious and why I gave the prescription I did. The other guys are right about the difference in build though when you're dragging in very little mud...