Do to some incredibly good luck(somone ran over my roof rack) i got 500 dollars. So now that i have some money i am doing SOA and disc brakes front and rear. Now my only question is do i really need a proportioning valve if i have disc front and rear? I have heard you only need to use one if you have drum front disc rear. Any info would be apreciated.
ben

The saerch button can be your friend. I have seen several threads pertaining to this exact topic.

Welcome Newbie

thanks for that reply, in all of my newbieness i never thought to look for such a thing. read over the posts and am getting the idea that i do need a prop valve. can somone explain why? i mean why change the balance of braking from 4wheel drum to 4wheel disc? isnt the balance going to be the same either way? thanks
ben

Yes you do. There is a stock proportioning valve in the system already. What happens is that without the valve your rear tires will lock up much sooner than the front tires. :eek:
Do it a couple of times and you will see the difference :flipoff2:

Hey Newbie,

I have done 2 DB conversions and one needed the valve and the other didn't.

I suggest doing the conversion and testing it out and seeing before you spend the $$$.

Originally posted by wngrog
Hey Newbie,

I have done 2 DB conversions and one needed the valve and the other didn't.

I suggest doing the conversion and testing it out and seeing before you spend the $$$.

Cruisers are odd creatures aren't they.
Ive heard this same thing.

Both my RDB convos needed the valve. Even if you don't NEED it, it's nice to have so you can fine tune.

I would use a valve. When you step on the brakes in a panic stop, the front end usually dips and the rear end rises. If you have equal brake pressure, the rear brakes may lock up and you could be spinning in circles. You usually want more stopping power on the front axle. The fronts should lock up first.

I would also add that the best way to test whether you need one or not, is on the trail. Gouging the pedal on pavement is very misleading, I can't find a higher traction surface than the road in front of my house.

So my advice is to find a slick suface preferably (pointing downhill) a damp or marble covered downhill, with a good clearing for safety, and ease down on the pedal and see which end locks up first. If it is the front, you are likely good with whatever you have done, assuming you CAN lock the back as well.

If the rear locks first, then add an adjustable valve. You can always find the appropriate settings for each condition this way. As much as I appreciate and respect the many opinions on this site, some users make some statements and recomendations that just don't apply across the board, but the posts read as gospel.

And further more, most of you probably aren't interested in what I've heard, or read in some national publication. You want the scoop on first hand experiences. I know I do! My buddy may not care if his brakes work right, but you don't want me to tell you his set up is ok, because he hasn't crashed and burned yet?

This prop valve, brake pressure and surface area, stuff almost burns my ass as much as the best carb ever made for the Cruiser, the Weber! I can find find ten random owners with Webers and 9 will back up the claim that weaseled the money from their clenches. Prop valves, same thing, guys sliding sideways down a steep, slick embankment, rear ends locked proud of the $40 they saved.

Sorry for the rant, and no offense is intended to anyone.

Mike "SpaceGhost" Smythe