I'm having a hell of a time.:mad:

please tell me about your plumbing - as much detail as possible.

pump, reservoir, fittings, hose and line sizes, lengths, routing, etc.

YES, definately much needed info:mad:

Problem description?

wow, it might be easier to shoot a bunch of pics and post them.

What specifically are you looking for?

;)

I would most like to know what fittings and brand/type/size of hose you are using, and what your plumbing (route) is like.

Here, I'll go first:

Starting at the pump:

P-style can-o-ham pump with rex sealed up and pipe fitting where original cap was.

pressure out uses that funky flared/o-ring fitting (not a double flare, and not an ORB either - the style used in fuel injection systems too. I thought this was universal (I've never seen a ps pump out that wasn't) but apparently not.

Anyway, that fitting is on 3/8 tube. I then have a compression fitting on the 3/8 tube changing to a non-skive field attachable in 5/16 hose. Then 5/16 hose to the booster HP in - fitting at booster in is the original fitting re-used on 3/8 tube (hydro store unable to replicate at all) another compression fitting to on the 3/8 tube changing to a non-skive field attachable on the 5/16 hose

Booster LP retutn is parker push-lok hose in 3/8 from the booster LP nipple to the stock pump rez return.

Booster HP out to the valve is a crimped-on air conditioning type the hydro stoore matched. Crimped on to 5/16 hose then has field-attachable fitting ending in -6 JIC. then there's a -6 JIC to 3/4-16 ORB 90* fitting in the valve.

L and R out of the valve are the same 3/4-16 ORB to -6 JIC 90*, and then field attachable -6 JIC fittings on 3/8 1 wire non-skive hose to the cylinder.

valve LP return is 3/4-16 ORB to -6 JIC 90*, then 3/8 pushlok hose (250 psi, 28 " Hg rating) to the Station filter.reservoir/cooler combo.

Finally the filter/reservoir/cooler combo dumps out a -10JIV through 5/8" pushlok hose back into theat pipe fitting on top of the original pump reservoir.

At one point I also had a tranny cooler plumbed between the valve LP return and the Station reservoir.

My problems are numerous:

- pump whine / howl (prob cavitation) despite repeated bleeding
- oddly, power assist runs out of steam after about 3/4 of the stroke
- brake pedal causes horrible resonanse / pulsing of the booster LP return line
- the fluid returning to the Station reservoir combo seems far too turbulent - and fluid is being forced out from under the cap (and of course, directly onto the exhaust manifold!)


pump HP out

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/misc/Station/pump%20hp%20out%201.JPG

Booster HP in

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/misc/Station/booster%20hp%20in%201.JPG

Booster HP out

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/misc/Station/booster%20hp%20out%201.JPG

OK, let's make this a little easier....
Who on here actually uses this set-up (full hydro steer with hydrobooster brakes) successfully without any problems? IF you do please post up how you did it, I've been after Bill now for months for a write-up over this but he's having problems too, I'm planning this same swap and all the researching I've done only comes up with the same response as BillaVista's....this set-up is a bitch to get right! so hydro masters, what's up with this shit? Station????? anybody:confused:

I'm only running hydroboost brakes. My steering is standard Saginaw.

Think I'll sit this one out guys.

Originally posted by Jayrockn7
OK, let's make this a little easier....
Who on here actually uses this set-up (full hydro steer with hydrobooster brakes) successfully without any problems? IF you do please post up how you did it, I've been after Bill now for months for a write-up over this but he's having problems too, I'm planning this same swap and all the researching I've done only comes up with the same response as BillaVista's....this set-up is a bitch to get right! so hydro masters, what's up with this shit? Station????? anybody:confused:

Bill and I are still trying to figure out the cause of his problems.....He ran into a couple of weird issues that I have not seen before.

It should be resolved soon.

Sean

One of the best things I did when building my steering system was to use aeroquip teflon lined braided hose and the correct jic style fittings. The best place I found for the fittings was from Lefthander Chassis and the hose from Jegs or a local place.

The WAY to do it!

CJ

CJ - you have a source for Hydroboost booster to JIC fittings???

If so - where?

If not - welcome to my problem (one of them). As i mentioned, all my new hydro stuff from Station is ORB which I have converted to JIC, and I agree, JIC are nice to use fittings.

But what to do about the damn hydroboost fittings???

Pyro...you out there?

That looks like the same type of fitting found on sagniaw pumps. I know when I bought my saginaw to JIC adapter at local to me www.stockcarproducts they had a few different sizes to chose from. Find a good selection and you should be set.

CJ

BillaVista,

The fitting that you are having a problem with is a GM *ONLY* item.

The guy that did my setup had to get one from a buddy of his that is a GM tech. There was no other way to get one except to buy a full rebuild kit and it was expen$ive.

Is this the fitting your'e talking about? I just remember that one little obstacle kept everything else from being completed.

Like I said...I can take pics, but that's about it.

CJ - SCP is local to you? You ucky SOB...cool supply.

But yea, it "looks" just like air conditioning, fuel line, commercial truck air, and power steering fittings - but it isn;t. Like serious one said - it's some concotion of size/thread pitch that exists nowhere else.

I may just hit up my GM tech friend, then find someone cleverer 'an me to take the new GM fittings and braze the end of a JIC on??

What a PITA, and doesn;t solve all my problems.

As for the pump end - I'm 95% sure now that I will just order a nice KRC pump with the 3.7 GPM valve and nice -An (JIC) fittings.

still would like to hear about plumbing routes and whether nayone has any other issues or if it all works perfectly

bill,

i have the system you refer to

hydro brakes and the full hydro steering, bought the system from sean, i got it to work really well. send me your questions via my email, i will send you photo's and how i did it. you can clean it up and post on the site. anything i can do to help i will.
allen

Originally posted by BillaVista
CJ - SCP is local to you? You ucky SOB...cool supply.


Yeah SCP is about 15-20 minutes from where I live. Here is a link:

http://www.stockcarproducts.com/steer8.htm

One of those adapters I put into a stock P style saginaw pump and converted the pressure out to #6 JIC. I believe that is the same style fitting on the hydroboost stuff. SCP once told me they get those couple fittings they have from a guy in NY who makes a whole bunch of them. Perhaps they can give you some info on where to get those fittings? AFAIK, they are custom made.

Your first step might be to find out what threads are on those lines so you know what your looking for. Accel makes those style adapters for TPI fuel systems, maybe one of those would work?

CJ

I think the solution is simple Bill - get pinion brakes... Then you won't need that crappy hydro-boost junk...:flipoff2:

All - I must emphasize, because in my frustration I may have been misleading...that my issues are entirely with MY hydroboost and MY choice of plumbing...NOT with Station's hydro steering gear at all, whoch, BTW, totally KICKS ASS !

CJ - good tips - thanks for the leads.

Smitrock - Thanks, standby for incoming e-mail

Elfy - good one ! ;)

I am going to print out that pic and take it to my hydraulics supply house and see what Dave says about an adapter, this guy can make anything work

these what ya need?

http://www.jegs.com/photos/799648050.gif


get them here LINKY (http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=35513&prmenbr=361)

Anyone know for sure what the hydroboost fittings are and if these types linked (thanks guys) will fit?

After the nightmare it is to bleed my system (lost count after 300 locks to lock - and still something's not right) I'm not about to remove the fittings just to measure them so that I have to start bleeding again.

Somebody has to know?

Cheers

Originally posted by usmcdoc14
these what ya need?

http://www.jegs.com/photos/799648050.gif

get them here LINKY (http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=35513&prmenbr=361)

These are the new kit hoses that Vanco Power Brake sent me this fall.
They came with the adapter style on the left side posted above.
http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/HydroBoostSystem2.jpg

you can make up adapters pretty easy using the ends from the old hoses.
Some hoses have a long tube, just cut the tube where you want to make the connection.

Cut one end off of a male/male #6 jic adapter.
Drill a shallow hole in the hex for the tube and braze it up.
Now you have a custom adapter

Same thing for the other end, and all you need is a simple #6 hydraulic hose.

Being plumbed with jic makes it easy to tee in a pressure gauge too.

hth

K.

Your problem wouldnt happen to be that when you lock the brakes you lose steering power would it? If so then it is the same problem ford has been having with its super duty diesels and mustangs with hydroboost. Wish I had a solution, but ford doesnt have one either.

Just curious as to the problems encountered.

Originally posted by Jaffer


These are the new kit hoses that Vanco Power Brake sent me this fall.
They came with the adapter style on the left side posted above.
http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/HydroBoostSystem2.jpg

this is the exact setup I use to run with Hydro Assist
use Steel AeroQuip fittings-6 and-8 little more durable than the Alum styles-6 and -8 . Use Aeroquip Blue power steering Hose good For 2250 PSI I have used all other's the( they Leak) and this stuff wont! its great .

it seemed like my pump would fall out and caviate like you are speaking of Recomend Good Fluid and big ass cooler no cheap stuff or trans fluid
I Now have full Howe System and No problems
without Hydroboost Because they Recomend Lower PSI pump
for Hydroboost the 1300 PSI,, I am told is too much I was gonna mount 2 pumps for Each System but decided against it because of space and Ditched the hydroboost for Willwood Complete pedal assembly it will stop on a dime and more compact

Adam,

Jaffer how is your system working with the HOWE pump???

I Now have full HI Now have full Howe System and No problems without Hydroboost Because they Recomend Lower PSI pump for Hydroboost the 1300 PSI,

The Technical Manual (-20) for the HMMWV lists max steering pump pressure at 1450 psi. And yes, every HMMWV has hydroboost assisted brakes. :D

Jaffer,

Are the 2 high pressure ports in your brake booster the same size (i.e. do they both take the same adapter to adapt them to JIC?

Also, are you running full hydro? If so, can you please explain/trace.draw the circuit (order) I can't make it out in the pic.

If not, am I to understand that so far nobody has made full hydro steering and hydro-boost brakes work well satisfcatorly????

I Now have full Howe System and No problems
without Hydroboost Because they Recomend Lower PSI pump
for Hydroboost the 1300 PSI,, I am told is too much I was gonna mount 2 pumps for Each System but decided against it

Adam dude, slow down and say that again, please - I didn't quite understand it.

Your problem wouldnt happen to be that when you lock the brakes you lose steering power would it?

Yes, that is one of my problems.

Basically, i have the following problems:

Lack of power in the steering - this I attribute to a worn old pump (likely)
almost complete lack of power when brakes pressed hard - ????
When I steer, and then release steering pressure (release wheel) or worse, when I get on the brakes and then let off the brakes, it pukes fluid out the vent hose, even when it's 2 feet higher than the reservoir.

I posted the pic just to illustrate the fittings as that was one of the questions asked.
I'm running no assist ... just straight steering and brakes.
Yes, both of the high pressure hydrobooster port adapter fittings are the same. They will take either the a O ring style fitting or the tapered adapter.
My system was sorely lacking in pump pressure with an AGR pump when things heated up and I had a hard time turning my tires at idle when they were at low pressure and in any tight bind ... and the hoses started weeping at that.
I never lost braking but the power steering would go to hell ... especially when hot.
That Sag style Howe pump in addition to the new high pressure hoses and cooler REALLY helped with the steering problem but it did create much larger return pressures that repeatedly blew out ordinary return hose but after replacing those with the high pressure blue stuff I've been really happy with the system.
It' no fun loosing both steering and brakes in one failure ... belt, hose, etc. ...
My only take on all this is that the better pump made all the difference! The Sag style Howe pump does cavatate and whine some, especially a start up and is a known problem they said they are working on.
I started using a hydroboost due to the notoriously low manifold vacuum present in an I-6 with a bigger cam. My next rig will use a GM dual diaphram booster, and Howe pump/gearbox and detachable (for rules compliance) ram assist.
Asking any pump to run both the gear box, brakes and then the addition of a ram is asking a LOT, IMHO, but maybe you can get away with brakes and full hydro steering ...
I too will be interested in seeing if anyone else replies who's done it and can give thier experiences ...

Jaffer,

many thanks for your time and experiences.

Is there an application for your hydro booster or is it a "Vanco special"?

Station and I are trying to work through this.

You know the expression - "don't drive angry" or whatever - well, i invented another one - don't shop online frustrated!!

About the only way I think we can lick my problems is to start component isolation, which is bloody difficult with my mish-mash of hose and fittings.

So, despite the fact that I dropped $330 (Cdn) on high quality (even if not neon colour :flipoff2: ) lines and fittings I just went beserk and ordered 2 of those fittings (hopefully they both fit in my booster), a 1400 psi, 3.7 gpm KRC pump with JIC fittings and an aluminum v-belt pulley with Chevy head mounting bracket kit.

And I'll bet dollars to donuts - after all that i will find that my problem is the old brake booster is fawked!

Bill, you may know that my rig was one of the early test beds for the Vanco/PartsMike hydroboost kit for Jeeps.
The biggest obsticles facing them was getting the booster mount depth and pushrod length just right and coming up with a set of hoses to adapt into a Jeep.
In 1999 during the R & D period Van put together a non-reserve booster and had what I later found out to be a late 70's style Ford 1/2 ton pickup's MC, then PM sent over a crude set of hoses with the stock type 'O' ring connections.
After two years hard use I blew out a seal in the MC at a comp in Cedar City ... probably from standing on the petal in fear of my life ... and one of the hoses began to weep.
This spring, Van sent me a new version kit that featured a newer style booster with what he said had an internal reserve mated to a Corvette MC. That's all the 'application' info I have for you.
As you know, you are not supposed to over tighten those 'O' ring connections and they get a lot of jiggling around from off-roading and constant engine mantianence. On replacment I was surprised to see that that first set of hose's 'O' rings were worn very thin with little rubber left to hold their seal.
The biggest kit improvment is the new set of high pressure side hoses shown in the pic I posted that feature a very high quality set of hoses and AN ends plus the adapters to fit both the booster and the gear box.
The adapters are all the same size and their tapered ends seat into the booster and gear box ports eliminating the need for 'O' rings which are prone to wear and failure.
This new hose end setup is a vast improvment over the fragile OEM 'O' ring style.

i run hydro-boost and full hydro-steering with no problems. my motor is a 99 vortec from a dually. the truck i got my motor from was equipped with hydroboost brakes so my pump res already had an extra port in it. i8 used the stock lines from the chevy and modified the pressure line that runs from the booster to the orbital valve. the line was a hard line from the booster so i cut the line off about 6-8" from the fitting and added a compression fitting to the line and then added a #6 or #8 (i can't remember off hand) hose that had the matching fitting. i then attached the hose to the modified line and ran it to the pressure port on the orbital valve. my setup is actaully the same configuration as a stock hydro-boost but instead of running a steering gear like a standard setup, the orbital valve is in it's place. the only additional thing i have in the system is a cooler.

hmmm, that makes it seem way to simple, guess having a matched system helped you out. pics???

Originally posted by Jayrockn7
hmmm, that makes it seem way to simple, guess having a matched system helped you out. pics???

no pic's. even if i took the time to take them you wouldn't be able to tell much. it is just an orbital, pump, cooler, and booster with a bunch of hoses in between.

Bill,
I am running a powersteering pump and hydro-boost from a 1984 GMC 6.2 diesel pickup. The steering box is off an '80 scout.
The hydroboost came on all 6.2 and 6.5 diesels, including the HMWWV.
The fittings on the HB are NOT dealer only parts.
The fittings on the HB are not identical, all three are different diameters.
I plumbed my system using earls and aeroquip hose and fittings.
I used AN-6 hose and hose ends. I then used AN adapters at the pump, HB and box.

The pressure fittings on the pump and the HB are metric and use orings. The HB has two pressure fittings, one is M18x1.5, the other is M16x1.5. I don't remember if the pump was 18 or 16.
The adapters from Summit Racing are part numbers AER-FCM2608 and 2609:
http://store.summitracing.com/product.asp?d=9&s=139&p=4785&searchtype=ecat

There is a specific order that things had to be set up Pump-HB-Box.
And the Pump-HB line had to go into the correct port on the HB. I f-ed up and had the Pump and Box lines swapped at the HB and ended up blowing out the HB.

The HB and Box both have return lines, so my pump has two inlets. These all had barbed fittings so I just did hose clamps. Didnt bother doing AN adapters.

I was also told to run the cooler and filter in one of the return lines, not in a pressure line. So I had mine in the return line from the Box.

At work and dont have any photos, if you need them let me know.
Pete

Originally posted by BillaVista
Basically, i have the following problems:

Lack of power in the steering - this I attribute to a worn old pump (likely)
almost complete lack of power when brakes pressed hard - ????
When I steer, and then release steering pressure (release wheel) or worse, when I get on the brakes and then let off the brakes, it pukes fluid out the vent hose, even when it's 2 feet higher than the reservoir.

Bill,
this is the exact problems I had when I had the two pressure lines at the HB switched.
I have worked on a couple different HB systems and everyone I have seen so far had 2 different sized fittings at the HB (as mentioned in previous). I installed Metric-AN adapters into the Rover and then got my lines flipped. Basically the pressure was going through the HB in the wrong direction. Ended up blowing out a seal.

As to bleeding I got something from a GM manual that seems real anal, but it has always worked for me.
Lift the front end.
Engine off, turn steering back and forth while pumping brake a dozen times.
Check fluid level.
Turn engine on and repeat.
Turn engine off, pump brake pedal a couple times.
Check level.
Lower front end back to ground
Start engine and repeat.
Check fluid.

Thanks, now we're getting somewhere....you guys are awesome (and you guys PMing me too - thanks so much)

That's very interesting - that the 2 different possible _o-ring (bot no O-ring Boss) fittings possible at the PS pump (M18 and M16) are also the 2 different sizes as the HB fittings - that's excellent - I ordered one of each from Randy's Race Mart (super- nice guy)

Interestingly, there are also 2 possible tapered (NPT) thread fittings for PS boxes, AND also 2 possible tapered fittings for the earlier HB boosters. I'm betting they're the same too. (interchangeable)

It seems earlier were tapered, and later were that o-ring style (whcih, incidentaly is also common on fuel injection hoses - at least the M16 size is) - and that's true of both PS pump fittings and HB boosters - and all can be adapted to -6 JIC thanks to the adapters you guys have posted.

Incidentaly, at least as far as Chevy HB boosters - there were at least 8 different models offered between '77 and '99 - I'm collecting data.

Still havent; solved my problems yet - but haven't been outside much for 3 days - raining solid for 3 days.

Pete - you have me sooo excited at the prospect that i screwed up the hoses into the HB. If I didn;t, I'm betting my HB booster is faulty.

Poll - you guys with HB boosters - is your HP pressure in (the line from the pump) on the SAME side as the LP retutn nipple, or the OTHER side (on its own)

Originally posted by BillaVista
Poll - you guys with HB boosters - is your HP pressure in (the line from the pump) on the SAME side as the LP retutn nipple, or the OTHER side (on its own)

The line from the pump is on it's own. The line to the box exits near the return line.

This is on the 6.2/6.5 ones.

Pete

The HP "in" is the the one by itself, the HP "out" is next to the LP return.

Edit: did you have time to see if the accumulater is holding pressure?

Pyro.....I would have, except I fried an alternator and burned up a coil last weekend....and I haven't changed them yet coz it's STILL pouring with rain.

I read that article - very interesting...but 20 pumps...WOW that seems a lot - I wonder if that's true of the GM systems or just the European?

I'm almost positive, without checking, that I couldn't get 20 assisted pumps with the engine off.

And mine (HB) is plumbed correctly, the same way all yours are, with the HP in on it's own, the HP out and LP return on the other side.

Originally posted by BillaVista
<snip>
Incidentaly, at least as far as Chevy HB boosters - there were at least 8 different models offered between '77 and '99 - I'm collecting data.
I'll bet you'll be kicking out a great article on this! Can't wait :D

(I'll be using a 83 or 84 Caddy HB with 80's Suburban fluid reserve)

Originally posted by BillaVista
Pyro.....I would have, except I fried an alternator and burned up a coil last weekend....and I haven't changed them yet coz it's STILL pouring with rain.

I read that article - very interesting...but 20 pumps...WOW that seems a lot - I wonder if that's true of the GM systems or just the European?

I'm almost positive, without checking, that I couldn't get 20 assisted pumps with the engine off.

And mine (HB) is plumbed correctly, the same way all yours are, with the HP in on it's own, the HP out and LP return on the other side.


When brand new, and everything working correctly, you should get 3 very good stops(thats pushing the peddle once for each stop), and maybe 2 more with bit less "power". I don't know how they get 20,,,,,I've never got more then 5. Wonder how their's differs?

How old is the booster?

My bet is on the accumulater valving is not holding the pressure going in or out of the accumulater. The pressure would be erratic as the diaphragm in front of the nitrogen(in the accumulater) would move freely as resistance was put on the system. When the resistance pushs hard enough on the diaphragm, the system pressure drops and the ram stops at 3/4 travel.

Also when you would release peddle, the accumulator would leak down the pressure it's suppost to store and pukes fuild out the vent.

Originally posted by PYRO

When brand new, and everything working correctly, you should get 3 very good stops(thats pushing the peddle once for each stop), and maybe 2 more with bit less "power". I don't know how they get 20,,,,,I've never got more then 5. Wonder how their's differs?


I was going to say...20 pumps? HTF did they get 20? Their accumulater must be the size of a paint can ;)
Pete

Get any further ahead yet?

Originally posted by PYRO



The pressure would be erratic as the diaphragm in front of the nitrogen(in the accumulater)


If its a gas charged accumulator how do they charge it????taking a WAG I would say its a spring accumulator

and if it was a spring acumulator (and the spring was broken)it would only affect the "brakes without the enging runing"


did you ever think that your pumping to much flow through the HB?? How much is it good for?? maybe when the HB steels flow/pressure from the pump it can not return the "added presure"(maybe from a modded pump??????) to the tank??????(I guess what Im saying is does the HB LP return have to much back pressure) (maybe try and run the LP return into a can or different tank)

just my thoughts??????

I thought I had it licked - I cut the HB completely out of the system.. Everything seemed fine for a while...then all of a sudden - it pukes fluid out of the cap vent again..in a nice stream all over the manifold...great :rolleyes:

I should have a brand new pump by the end of the week, but I just can't see how that's going to fix anything. About the only thing I can possibly think might still be causing it is that for some freakish reason the supply from the reservoir to the pump is collapsing internally.

I guess I'll fawkin replace that too...why not - I've already wasted a couple hunred bucks trying to get the bloody thing to work AND I'm back to manual brakes.

I guess in the end I just hope we learn something.

I must admit - I'm a little frustrated

Originally posted by BillaVista
About the only thing I can possibly think might still be causing it is that for some freakish reason the supply from the reservoir to the pump is collapsing internally.

i cant tell you how often i get calls on this and the cure was the suction hose from the res to the pump..
most presure hoses arnt rated for suction, and the hose colapes internaly under the braid, so the outside still looks fine.

Yea, I knew about not using pressure hose. I used suction rated hose - but I used 5/8" parker push-lok, and the curious thing is, in sizes 5/8" and up, it is only rated at 14" HG, but in sizes 1/2" and smaller it is rated at 28" HG. I noted from KRC's website that they insist you use a suction hose rated at 28" HG.

I wonder myself why the 50% increase in rating over a single size step - seems odd, but perhaps the sizes are actually constructed differently.

It seem my only option is to re-plumb with 1/2" hose rated for 28" Hg and the associated fittings.

I'm sure building a heckuva collection of surplus fittings and such :mad:

Originally posted by BillaVista
I'm sure building a heckuva collection of surplus fittings and such :mad:
Yes, but the upside is that when you get done, the rest of us get an accurate list of part numbers... ;)

exactly, Billa you are truly the man, only you would go thru this for us, Mr. Tech Guru Rock God of the Canadian North- here's to you and make it a bud light!:beer: True America......True POR HERO!!!

Originally posted by BillaVista

It seem my only option is to re-plumb with 1/2" hose rated for 28" Hg and the associated fittings.




You must have the "831"pushlock???

FYI 821 and 821FR push lock is good to 28" up to 3/4" the 831 does the jump when you go -8 to -10(like you have said already)

This is the stuff I have: (although this pic is of of the 3/8 return lines, the 5/8 is the same stuff)

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/misc/DCP_7750.JPG

You're saying I can get a 5/8" ID hose that will pull 28" and fit on my existing 5/8" barb to -10 fittings? If so - you have saved me 2 fittings, and I thank you enormously.

I shall enquire after this magical 821 of which you speak :D

Did I say 821?? NONONO 821 will not work













































just kidding :flipoff2:
the 821FR is fire resistant:D

Ha ha!

Too late - I already downloaded the entire Parker hose catalogue.......


















....I dont need ya no more :flipoff2:

Bill, any news?

Morgan

Never did get it all to work together.

I suspect the Hydroboost booster was faulty - but I don't know this for certain.

In the end, I ended up deleting the hydroboost and plan to one day go to dual manual 7/8" master cylinders for the brakes.

I was still suffering some slight problems (noisy pump and still puking some fluid out of the reservoir vent) which I believe are likely most probably related to too small a reservoir when I parked it for the winter.

If we get a warm spell I may muck around with it a bit - but at the moment I'm just a warm, happy web-wheelin' fool!

Bill,

Just an idea, and there has to be a better solution, but have you considered making two seperate hydraulic circuits, with 2 pumps? If all else fails I will do this when I build my 800

NQS

Join the club, I have screwed around for years to get my hydroboost setup working on my hotrod, and have never gotten it to work satisfactorily. I have intermittent leaks and occasionally, it actuates itself randomly. And I have it plumbed exactly like the car I took the system off. I ordered the adapter fittings for the pump just like as shown in the previous pictures, and still have leaks at that fitting. Presently, the car sits until I can figure it all out. My opinion, is that hydroboost is too finicky of a system for the average joe to use.

Never did get it all to work together.

I suspect the Hydroboost booster was faulty - but I don't know this for certain.

In the end, I ended up deleting the hydroboost and plan to one day go to dual manual 7/8" master cylinders for the brakes.

I was still suffering some slight problems (noisy pump and still puking some fluid out of the reservoir vent) which I believe are likely most probably related to too small a reservoir when I parked it for the winter.

If we get a warm spell I may muck around with it a bit - but at the moment I'm just a warm, happy web-wheelin' fool!


Just wondering if you ended up curing the noisey pump and puking fluid problem? I just got my buggy running and am having the same problems. But here is the interesting bit. I am using the same basic set up as I had on the last build up, but now it is unhappy. I have changed from a Scout II steering box to a Chevy (both Saginaws) and added a larger resivor I found on a hydro boost Astro Van. My box is about 1 foot further away then the last build, but that is about it. I do not use a hydro boost, but my P style pump is a Hydroboost Chevy truck stock unit. It makes noise like it needs more fluid, then pukes out fluid when I shut down the engine. I did have a thought last night about the box not being able to travel it full rate and maybe not allowing for full bleed, so I'll pull the pitman arm off tonight and give that a try. I'll see if my hose from the resivor is getting sucked in... Any other ideas?

Thanks,

-Wayne