My brother Mike Ismail of I.H. Only will soon be offering aluminum intake manifolds under the RPT brandname for both the 266/304 and 345/392 engines. They will have provisions for an EGR valve. If all goes to plan they should be available for initial testing early spring of next year and than sold to the general public shortly thereafter. So my poll questions to you are:

1. Would you buy one?

2. If so, how much would you expect to pay?

Your input will be very helpful in procurring the initial order. If enough interest is generated, it will make for a larger order with a lower manufacturing cost, hence lower overall sale price.

Thanks, Jeff
________
Glass bong (http://glassbongs.org/)

1. Would you buy one?

A. yes if I had the $$$, it would be nice to shave off a few pounds.

2. If so, how much would you expect to pay?


A. about the same as one for a SBC but I dought thats posible :rolleyes:

Cast or sheet metal?

Spreadbore or square?

I don't care to have a exhaust crossover/egr is it a delete option?

Can you make it a 1980 style with a normal t-stat housing/by-pass?

Originally posted by Old Scout
Cast or sheet metal?

Spreadbore or square?

I don't care to have a exhaust crossover/egr is it a delete option?

Can you make it a 1980 style with a normal t-stat housing/by-pass?
Actually, the 1980 style intake is no different than other intakes. On the '80 style, they just omitted the bypass block under the waterneck and used a straight style waterneck instead of the funky "silly neck". Instead of routing the bypass hose from the pump to the bypass block, it is instead routed from the water pump to a Tee fitting on the intake that the temp sending unit is also mounted to. Anyway... the intakes are the same.

Originally posted by TORC

Actually, the 1980 style intake is no different than other intakes. On the '80 style, they just omitted the bypass block under the waterneck and used a straight style waterneck instead of the funky "silly neck". Instead of routing the bypass hose from the pump to the bypass block, it is instead routed from the water pump to a Tee fitting on the intake that the temp sending unit is also mounted to. Anyway... the intakes are the same.

Thanks, I only owned a 1980 for a few weeks and was kinda unclear on what exactly was different. It's a a MUCH better design IMO.

OS... sent you a PM to keep from further highjacking this thread.

Jeff, while we're voicing our wishlists here, how about making one that accepts the 2bbl Rochester TBI unit that GM used. That would make the conversion to EFI a little simpler/cleaner while gaining the benefits of the aluminum intake.

how about an Aluminum block!:idea:


That'd probably save 9 or 10,000 pounds:laughing:














Stir, stir...don't mind me, I'm just passing through!...:D

I'll play devils advocate. But why?

To save a few pounds on an already heavy engine? I could see the desire for a 4 barrel manifold for the 304 motors, but why the 345/392?

Is there some great advantage to be had with an alm manifold that I am missing?

Originally posted by jdjanda

Is there some great advantage to be had with an alm manifold that I am missing?

not rilly the runners could be opend up a little bit but that about it

Jeff Id be interested only for the reason of no 4bbls mans available/made for v266/304 heads/engine.
I dont like aluminum because of different metals mixed causing more electrolysis[steel heads]. and different expansion/contraction rates potentially causing leaks at mating surfaces.
but take what we can get.

Originally posted by John Tabor
Jeff Id be interested only for the reason of no 4bbls mans available/made for v266/304 heads/engine.
I dont like aluminum because of different metals mixed causing more electrolysis[steel heads]. and different expansion/contraction rates potentially causing leaks at mating surfaces.
but take what we can get.

Oh yea the millions of manifolds the Edelbrock,Holley,Weiand,Offenhauser make all are known to dissolve from corrosion and leak like a sieve!

Take your BULLSHIT elsewere!

BTW the heads are cast Iron not Steel! :rolleyes:

Originally posted by TORC
OS... sent you a PM to keep from further highjacking this thread.

Jeff, while we're voicing our wishlists here, how about making one that accepts the 2bbl Rochester TBI unit that GM used. That would make the conversion to EFI a little simpler/cleaner while gaining the benefits of the aluminum intake.

Injector bosses!!!!

Originally posted by John Tabor

I dont like aluminum because of different metals mixed causing more electrolysis[steel heads]. and different expansion/contraction rates potentially causing leaks at mating surfaces.



Dude, are you on crack?:confused: :smokin:

I'm in. I'm sure they will flow better, and if it reduces the chance of a hernia to boot, great.

As far as price, I know it's new but I doubt I'd pay more than something like an FE Ford manifold, somewhere in the 275-350 range. They're large and complicated (due to the head cut-outs), at least before we get into injector bosses and stuff, and I know IHs aren't that bad.

Darel

Would I buy one...

If the price was right YES I would. BUT it would also have to have some of the options listed above.

I am going to be going EFI soon (maybe later?) and it would be great to have the boss (2 barrel) be ready so that I do not have to ask the machine shop to do it downstairs.


JDJANDA...I agree the weight is kind of a moot thing...fucking motor weighs 800 or what ever pounds already.

THough the big benefit to me would be heat reduction. You can cook a fucking pizza on the intake on my rig and have the thing still be warm the next day. Not good for carb parts and or EFI parts over the long haul.


JOHN TABOR...what the fuck do you smoke :smokin: man...even I don't blow as much shit out of my ass:nuke:

bobbie boy mann- you are the only one spreading bull shit and you seem to spread yours around wherever you go.
typical of a closed minded repressed inbred bastard.
Aluminum corrodes, and when mated to a dis-similar metal such as a STEEL head, creates a battery, with any coolant passing in between them. science 101, perhaps you missed that course in school? and aluminum alloys are not a noble metal, there will be corrosion. seems you havent removed very many al. parts from an engine, especially an engine not maintained very well.

Originally posted by John Tabor
bobbie boy mann- you are the only one spreading bull shit and you seem to spread yours around wherever you go.
typical of a closed minded repressed inbred bastard.
Aluminum corrodes, and when mated to a dis-similar metal such as a STEEL head, creates a battery, with any coolant passing in between them. science 101, perhaps you missed that course in school? and aluminum alloys are not a noble metal, there will be corrosion. seems you havent removed very many al. parts from an engine, especially an engine not maintained very well.

Dude the Heads are not made of steel , but cast Iron. Any fawking moron knows that. But your not just any normal moron.

You seem to take a simple commonly know problem and blow it way out of proportion, because you have no first hand knowledge on the subject! It is not a problem.

I have aluminum manifold for intake and exhaust on a raw water cooled motor in my boat,

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/uploads/Mopar-marine440.JPG

See John it's called first hand experence and you on the other hand are just posting dribble.

Cut-n-paste from my BB responce... didn't feal like re-typing (hell, I'm lasy :flipoff2: )

My OPINION is: unless there was a [significant] improvement over stock, I'm not sure what the point would be.

The stock manifold weights ~75lbs (or was it 60?), an aluminum unit would weight probably about 30#... as savings of ~30 or so lbs... on a 650lbs motor combo, that's not a big deal.

My OPINION is that the real savings would be in aluminum HEADS. Not only are you saving twice the weight (on V-8's), but there are MANY more drastic improvements you could make in the heads over stock, that would significantly improve the SV motors... plus, if you designed them right, you could make them accept ANOTHER MAKE of manifold (say Dodge) and take advantage of an already existing huge and established aftermarket (and one less IH specific part to design and have built).

If you build an Aluminum, Stock IH manifold, I would not buy it (would use it if given to me, or if I needed a 4-bbl manifold and could not find an iron one cheap/easy). If it had improved characteristics over a stock unit for pumped-up motors, I would consider it, especially for a race or comp. motor.

Now if it was a multi-port manifold.... :D

just my $.02 Jeff (and Mike)... I applaud the effort and desire, just wondering if it truly is in the right direction.... (for the biggest bang for the buck).

That all said, if you build them, you WILL sell them, that I think is already clear, just hard to say how many (and I'm pretty sure they will have a $300+ price tag, unless you guys can find some killer casting and machining deals!)

Originally posted by John Tabor
bobbie boy mann- you are the only one spreading bull shit and you seem to spread yours around wherever you go.
typical of a closed minded repressed inbred bastard.
Aluminum corrodes, and when mated to a dis-similar metal such as a STEEL head, creates a battery, with any coolant passing in between them. science 101, perhaps you missed that course in school? and aluminum alloys are not a noble metal, there will be corrosion. seems you havent removed very many al. parts from an engine, especially an engine not maintained very well.

I guess I better unbolt my 727 when I leave it parked overnight :rolleyes:

Originally posted by jdjanda


I guess I better unbolt my 727 when I leave it parked overnight :rolleyes:

Good one!

I better remove the steel roof of my daily driver, because it will cause problems with the aluminum body! :rolleyes:

Originally posted by Old Scout


Good one!

I better remove the steel roof of my daily driver, because it will cause problems with the aluminum body! :rolleyes:

Better take the wheels off also, you wouldn't want the alloy wheels welding themselves to the rotors

Also, don't forget stock 4-bbl manifolds top $200 all the time. Buy the AL manifold for $250-$300, sell your stocker (price will drop eventually, but not too soon) for $200, and maybe when you think you've only got $50 or $100 into the manifold buying one becomes a little more palatable.

Like I said, if it's a small shop, a low-volume run will not cause the price of stock 4-bbl manifolds to drop very much, at least not for a few years. That way they can get a market established, have an initial production run under their belts, and we've got a negligibly lighter and somewhat better-flowing manifold. Hey, every little bit helps.

And once a market is established for the manifolds...maybe the heads are soon to follow...

Darel

Originally posted by Darel
Also, don't forget stock 4-bbl manifolds top $200 all the time.

Darel

Only a D.A.N. would pay $200 for a OEM 4bbl intake!

I'm not saying anyone should pay it but they do.
Darel

Originally posted by Darel
Also, don't forget stock 4-bbl manifolds top $200 all the time. Buy the AL manifold for $250-$300, sell your stocker (price will drop eventually, but not too soon) for $200, and maybe when you think you've only got $50 or $100 into the manifold buying one becomes a little more palatable.

Like I said, if it's a small shop, a low-volume run will not cause the price of stock 4-bbl manifolds to drop very much, at least not for a few years. That way they can get a market established, have an initial production run under their belts, and we've got a negligibly lighter and somewhat better-flowing manifold. Hey, every little bit helps.

I dissagree.

If AL 4-barrels were avaliable for $250 or so, no way in hell your going to get $150-$200 for an iron one (heck, $100-$125 is the going rate now).

If AL manifolds come avalibale close to the price of an Iron one... the market for "old, heavy" iron units is going to drop almost instantly... except for people that haven't heard of the AL ones avaliable (which would not include anyone from any of the major IH boards....

Port injection would really be a good reason to upgrade,
2nd that request.

Originally posted by Old Scout


Injector bosses!!!!

Originally posted by John Tabor
bobbie boy mann- you are the only one spreading bull shit and you seem to spread yours around wherever you go.
typical of a closed minded repressed inbred bastard.
Aluminum corrodes, and when mated to a dis-similar metal such as a STEEL head, creates a battery, with any coolant passing in between them. science 101, perhaps you missed that course in school? and aluminum alloys are not a noble metal, there will be corrosion. seems you havent removed very many al. parts from an engine, especially an engine not maintained very well.

You, Sir, are obviously WAY to smart for all of us. :shaking: You might as well stop wasting your time here and go some place else.

Seems like someone has been reading too many tech books and doesn't have any real world experience. :rolleyes: Seems like a really good canidate to join the "band".:D You know there has been a rash of rotted aluminum intakes that just have recently been sucked past the intakes valves causing some engines to run rough at times. The fix is a oil change, but it has to be synthetic! :flipoff2: Or was it a paper air filter elelment?

Actually, How I took care of my severe aluminum corrosision issue is that I STOLE the anodes off my neighbor's outboard motor and ground them up and put it in my aluminum radiator. I picked up 150 HP too as it made all the water molecules turn to a north pole direction therefore they didn't tumble going thru the water passages causing parasitic drag. ;)

My Son would like a 304, 4 intake

Originally posted by Shadow man
Seems like someone has been reading too many tech books and doesn't have any real world experience. :rolleyes: Seems like a really good canidate to join the "band".:D You know there has been a rash of rotted aluminum intakes that just have recently been sucked past the intakes valves causing some engines to run rough at times. The fix is a oil change, but it has to be synthetic! :flipoff2: Or was it a paper air filter elelment?

Actually, How I took care of my severe aluminum corrosision issue is that I STOLE the anodes off my neighbor's outboard motor and ground them up and put it in my aluminum radiator. I picked up 150 HP too as it made all the water molecules turn to a north pole direction therefore they didn't tumble going thru the water passages causing parasitic drag. ;)

My Son would like a 304, 4 intake


:laughing::laughing:

Bratwurst and Cherry Coke all over....


ahahahahahahaahahahahaha

I took the liberty of writing replys to Tabors next posts:


1. I can see your point, but I still think you're full of shit.
2. I don't know what your problem is, but I'll bet it's hard to pronounce
3. I see you've set aside this special time to humiliate yourself in public.
4. I'll try being nicer if you'll try being smarter.
5. It loooks like English, but I can't understand a word you're saying.
6 Ahhh...I see the screw-up fairy has visited us again...
7. I like you. You remind me of myself when I was young and stupid.
8. Thank you. We're all refreshed and challenged by your unique point
of view.
9. The fact that no one understands you doesn't mean you're an artist.
10Any connection between your reality and mine is purely coincidental.
11 I'm not being rude. You're just insignificant.
12. Do I look like a people person?
13. Errors have been made. Others will be blamed.
14. Sarcasm is just one more service we offer.
16. If I throw a stick, will you leave
17. Oh I get it... like humor... but different.


:flipoff2:

Ask me a year ago and I would have bought one but the IH mill is going away for something lighter.
I think the weight savings is woth it. Though it's not all that much savings it's on the highest point on the drivetrain. I think it would have a significant impact on the C.O.G.
For you guys that are buying one but not for this reason I think your probably wasting your money.:)

Originally posted by Old Scout
I took the liberty of writing replys to Tabors next posts:


1. I can see your point, but I still think you're full of shit.
2. I don't know what your problem is, but I'll bet it's hard to pronounce
3. I see you've set aside this special time to humiliate yourself in public.
4. I'll try being nicer if you'll try being smarter.
5. It loooks like English, but I can't understand a word you're saying.
6 Ahhh...I see the screw-up fairy has visited us again...
7. I like you. You remind me of myself when I was young and stupid.
8. Thank you. We're all refreshed and challenged by your unique point
of view.
9. The fact that no one understands you doesn't mean you're an artist.
10Any connection between your reality and mine is purely coincidental.
11 I'm not being rude. You're just insignificant.
12. Do I look like a people person?
13. Errors have been made. Others will be blamed.
14. Sarcasm is just one more service we offer.
16. If I throw a stick, will you leave
17. Oh I get it... like humor... but different.


:flipoff2:

Now that's some funny crap :p

I would grab one up if it was set up for EFI. And like was said about the weight, 30#'s will not make that much of a difference on a 700# + engine. Of course you might gain an extra one mpg :flipoff2:

$250 -300 would be a fair asking price.

Of course you might gain an extra one mpg

That's a 30% gain in mileage for most IHs! I'm in!

Appreciate the responses that have to do with this post. As for the bashing of other binder owners, hijack someone elses thread and then take it over there.:rolleyes:

As I just posted on BB, I am merely a messenger in this deal. I really don't know all the details but have told you all I know. Mike is just trying to get an overall view of the market. He doesn't have millions of dollars for R&D to make it some gnarly performance manifold. He's just trying to make aluminum manifolds that resemble the stock manifolds. As for the reason why to make one ? Because Mike wants to.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Old Scout


Injector bosses!!!!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I like that idea too. Definetely will be mentioning it to him.

Jeff
________
Live Sex Webshows (http://livesexwebshows.com/)

You know there are quite a few engineers on the board, there may be somebody around who could offer some help... I'm just a lowely 2nd year mech e student, so I can't help much, but somebody might. If you asked. As for buying one, I'm a lowely 2nd year mech e student...

ihojeff, if your buddy takes the efi options to heart, I'd be in.

ihojeff,

I might be interested in one for the 304. You talked to the folks that do the
Extrude-hone perchance? They can do wonders with aluminum as far as optimising air-fuel flows through the runners. Might add they are $$$ so...


Old Scout, jdjanda;

You tossed a few bad misconceptions in with your remarks. We'll let the gyration about corrosion slide fer now and address the heat misconceptions.

As far as the expansion issue look in any engineering text or reference.
(these came from Marks Handbook for Mech Engineers)

Al=.094 in/in/C x10-6 (linear exp.)
cast Fe= .059 in/in/C x10-6 "


With the rates being close to 2x, the alum will move almost 2x more than the heads for a given equlilibrium temperature.
The saving grace is that a typical aluminum manifold has a decent emissivity compliments of the bead blasted surface which helps reduce the problem.

Bottom line, theres a reason why the bolt holes in aluminum intake manifolds tend to be a touch larger than cast iron (or steel) equivalents and theres a reason why alum manifolds are typically bead blasted and NOT polished.

D.

[edit]
Yes I did edit out how fast this will occur. The linear expansion issue is enough for now... ;)

SMACK!









Oh yeah, Tabor smokes crack

Originally posted by DVanVorous
ihojeff,

I might be interested in one for the 304. You talked to the folks that do the
Extrude-hone perchance? They can do wonders with aluminum as far as optimising air-fuel flows through the runners. Might add they are $$$ so...


Old Scout, jdjanda;

You tossed a few bad misconceptions in with your remarks. We'll let the gyration about corrosion slide fer now and address the heat misconceptions.

As far as the expansion issue look in any engineering text or reference.
(these came from Marks Handbook for Mech Engineers)

Al=.094 in/in/C x10-6 (linear exp.)
cast Fe= .059 in/in/C x10-6 "


With the rates being close to 2x, the alum moving almost 2x more than the heads for a given equlilibrium temperature.
The saving grace is that a typical aluminum manifold has a decent emissivity compliments of the bead blasted surface which helps reduce the problem.

Bottom line, theres a reason why the bolt holes in aluminum intake manifolds tend to be a touch larger than cast iron (or steel) equivalents and theres a reason why alum manifolds are typically bead blasted and NOT polished.

D.


Bla bla bla, No misconceptions , but 25 years of first hand use!

Hmmmm TPI on an IH mill, what a way to make a slug run like a top :eek:

Bla bla bla, No misconceptions , but 25 years of first hand use!

Sorry but Ive got 5+ yrs on you plus being very familiar with the engineering why as well.

Which is why I can state your plainly wrong and need to do a little meandering through places like hotrod swap meets where alum manifolds with corrosion and the like are commonplace because they've reached their service life and see exacty why youre wrong iffen you need visuals.

A boat motor that sees intermittent use is nowhere near equivalent to a DD or other more used vehicle. With 25 yrs you ought to know that...

D.

well now your speaking of service life as a property of the different metals used for manifolds.

This here seems to be a weight saving, heat transfer, adapt different things, and parts reacting with each other discussion.

I don't think too many people purchace a manifold and think of the life expectancy of the piece. They usually shop for performance. and in a Scout owners case a little weight savings.

I'm no engineer I'm no scout owner but I have seen first hand two disimilar metals reacting with one another and what happens when a high dollar exotic or non exotic metal reaches the end of it's life.

I raced Mountain bikes road bikes and I worked in a bike shop for many years.

Oh and I want to see a Scout Manifold with 6 strombergs on it:flipoff2:

Originally posted by DVanVorous


Sorry but Ive got 5+ yrs on you plus being very familiar with the engineering why as well.

Which is why I can state your plainly wrong and need to do a little meandering through places like hotrod swap meets where alum manifolds with corrosion and the like are commonplace because they've reached their service life and see exacty why youre wrong iffen you need visuals.

A boat motor that sees intermittent use is nowhere near equivalent to a DD or other more used vehicle. With 25 yrs you ought to know that...

D.

So lets look at it more in a life life install. The aluminum has contact with the bolts holding it to the head and the gaskets. So a simple 304-316 SS washer will eliminate the contact with the bolt and a SS bolt would even be better, so were exactly does the Fe part come in to play in your obscure theory?

BTW my DD engine is all aluminum with Steel bolts holding it together! :eek: :eek: :eek:

Bob That would be Aluminium. :flipoff2:

Old Scout,

So lets look at it more in a life life install. The aluminum has contact with the bolts holding it to the head and the gaskets. So a simple 304-316 SS washer will eliminate the contact with the bolt and a SS bolt would even be better, so were exactly does the Fe part come in to play in your obscure theory?

What type of gaskets? Alum gaskets will expand at the same rate as an alum manifold. Non metal gaskets will simply conform-extrude as the alum expands differentially relative to the head(s). Becomes a non problem under that circumstance. Steel will do a number on an alum seal surface with the loads.
You cant get away from the thermal problems. Its inherent in the device...

Now iffen you want to get into the corrosion issue, 2 metals in an electrolyte create a wet cell which has a charge based on the difference between electronegativity of the 2 metals. The electrolyte (water or antifreeze mix) acts as the carrier for the votage difference. It doesnt matter how far away the cast iron/steel is relative to the other dissimilar metal as the water carries the charge (milivolts) that acts on the lower eloctronegativity material. End result is the material that has a lower electronegativity will take it in the shorts. You add a flow to the stream and it helps by removing any oxides leaving fresh material to corrode. The engineering term for this is galvanic corrosion. The question isnt an IF it will corrode rather a how long before failure under standard operating conditions.

BTW my DD engine is all aluminum with Steel bolts holding it together
One thing about alum is that it has a fatigue issue and a low yield in comparison to steel or cast. Its primary advantage is its strength to weight in comparison. But the lower yield and fatigue strength over time results in bolts loosening over time, more risk of warpage, etc. that you dont see with steel.
Bolts are immaterial unless they contact water from a corrosion perspective. I might add though that it can be fun taking bolts out that have managed to get water in the threads on alum blocks-heads.

The folks at Edelbrock Weiland, et Al. take all this into account with the alloy and design to give John Q. something that'll last more than a few years in continuous service.

Bottom line?
Yes things grow with heat, yes things corrode. The question is more one of how long will it last and is that an acceptable time. Leastwise thats my cut on it anyway... :D

D.

So with all this information why don't you try to stop the whole Automotive industry from using aluminum head and intakes on iron blocks with steel fasteners.

Oh and why you are at it you shoudl talk them out of using water in the coolant becasue it is really corrosive:flipoff2:

I am not going to take this new and serious development sitting down. I hope Mr Tabor will assist me in a email and letter writing campaign to the public and automotive industry warning them of the imminent danger posed by using aluminum parts mixed with cast iron and steel. I say to hell with that crappy aluminum. My first step will be to yank off the aluminum intake off my Caddy and smash it to bits.

Anyone know where I can find a steel cased alternator??...........or transmission?





I learned a ton of practical knowlege on dissimilar metal corrosion from my days in the aircraft industry. No one in their right mind would argue the benefits of using it for intakes.
























Maybe Tabor is insane, or just a mouthy asshat







Tabor, take your BS somewhere else









And stay there









.

galvanic corrosion, schmalvanic scmorosion.
SERVICE LIFE being the key factor, who gives a turd if there is corrosion if it takes 25 years to become a problem. I'll buy a second (insert your hi-po part here) when the thing crumbles in my greasy hands.

As for jeffs Al intake, gimmie a reason to buy it beyond a $7.50/lb diet and I'd be all over it.

and Tabor; stick around, you can tell ME your silly ideas cuz I think there kinda funny:p

I'd pay $300 for an AL manifold but only if GM TBI would bolt on. Not much of a weight savings. Injector bungs would be nice too so's I can upgrade later when I get rich.:D

I wonder how long my sons Camaro LS1 with it's AL block, heads, intake (aftermarket) and radiator will last before it melts down from corrosion?:flipoff2:

I have over 20 years in the aircraft maintenance business where galvanic corrosion is a serious problem. Except for service life and some fastening concerns, aluminum parts on a motor are a non-issue

John Tabor, Take your drivel somewhere else. I got tired of reading it on the BB, we don't need it here.

Jeff,

I'd probably have to fork over +/- $300 for ONE, maybe TWO intakes.

Specifically, one to throw a 4bbl on my 304 (w/o an adapter) just to re-confirm that the heads are my limit.

The other, for a 345/392, for the next race engine..

I doubt I'd buy any for my tow rig or trail rig.

As others have said, I'd rather spend $700 on fuel injection than upgrade to a bling-bling intake and a new carb.

Of course, if the intake were set up for TBI, that might be different..

But for the racer, I need to stick with a carb to say in my class, and a few pounds of weight savings might be worth it.

I've been happy with every other product I have from Mike.. so I'd give an intake a whirl.

Originally posted by tsm1mt
Of course, if the intake were set up for TBI, that might be different..


You HAVE an intake set of for TBI.... if you'd stop fooling around with other things (racing, weddings, Honeymoon, crap like that), you'd see that it works quite well :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :D

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite



You HAVE an intake set of for TBI.... if you'd stop fooling around with other things (racing, weddings, Honeymoon, crap like that), you'd see that it works quite well :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :D

:D Yeah, but I only have ONE TBI intake.. and eventually, I might have everything injected.. but the $$$ thing keeps getting in the way. :D

I'm sure the intake works great, it's the ProJection that pissed me off..

So with all this information why don't you try to stop the whole Automotive industry from using aluminum head and intakes on iron blocks with steel fasteners.

Iffen ye look at all my posts I never said I was opposed to alum, just that it has its drawbacks.
Its a classic case of service life-planned obsolescence; speaking from a mfg perspective making a block thats rated for a 15-20 yr life with a more expensive matl is actually cheaper than one out of the heavier matls IH used that lasts over 30 yrs.
Combine increased sales due to a decreased life span between rebuilds and the need to "lighten things up" to meet current smog regs, I'm sympathetic with the auto makers and their decision to go this route. Its John Q. that gets to pay not them...

Oh and why you are at it you shoudl talk them out of using water in the coolant becasue it is really corrosive

The fact theres more alum in the circuits a good thing. Fewer metal disimilarities reduces corrosion... :flipoff2:
As far as water or glycol substitutes, hit the SAE web site up. They've been playing with this idea for more than few years now.

Would I run a 2P manifold 4 bbl on my rig? You bet and I said that too. I realise the issues and am willing to take the risk.
But to say that there are NO risks is blatantly wrong which is specifically the issue I addressed...

D.

Originally posted by DVanVorous


Iffen ye look at all my posts I never said I was opposed to alum, just that it has its drawbacks.
Its a classic case of service life-planned obsolescence; speaking from a mfg perspective making a block thats rated for a 15-20 yr life with a more expensive matl is actually cheaper than one out of the heavier matls IH used that lasts over 30 yrs.
Combine increased sales due to a decreased life span between rebuilds and the need to "lighten things up" to meet current smog regs, I'm sympathetic with the auto makers and their decision to go this route. Its John Q. that gets to pay not them...



The fact theres more alum in the circuits a good thing. Fewer metal disimilarities reduces corrosion... :flipoff2:
As far as water or glycol substitutes, hit the SAE web site up. They've been playing with this idea for more than few years now.

Would I run a 2P manifold 4 bbl on my rig? You bet and I said that too. I realise the issues and am willing to take the risk.
But to say that there are NO risks is blatantly wrong which is specifically the issue I addressed...

D.
I got the impression you were defending the "Idiots" post.
I'm running an aluminum intake on my 258 in my IH, and it's water (coolant) cooled, or heated which ever way you want to look at it. The rig I pulled it off of was 20 years old and this is the original intake that came on that rig, so the longevity issue is asinine. And use spell check Mr. Highfalutin.

The rig I pulled it off of was 20 years old and this is the original intake that came on that rig, so the longevity issue is asinine

Fact is, the only way you can prove Im wrong is to measure section thickness of a 20 yr old manifold and compare that to new. You really want to section a working piece of hardware to prove your point?
Coourse there is an engineering alternative iffen one just looks up the reqisite formulae and does a few calculations. It'll tell you how much has gone away within ~10%... ;)

And use spell check Mr. Highfalutin.

Naw, takes too much time. I prefer rousing of rabble "freestyle"... :D

D.

Originally posted by DVanVorous


Fact is, the only way you can prove Im wrong is to measure section thickness of a 20 yr old manifold and compare that to new. You really want to section a working piece of hardware to prove your point?
Coourse there is an engineering alternative iffen one just looks up the reqisite formulae and does a few calculations. It'll tell you how much has gone away within ~10%... ;)



Naw, takes too much time. I prefer rousing of rabble "freestyle"... :D

D.

Dave can't you tell the horse is dead, stop kicking the fawkin thing

Originally posted by ChiScouter


Dave can't you tell the horse is dead, stop kicking the fawkin thing



YEAH...DUDE you are the only one posting so STFU:rolleyes:

You are soooooo smart:rolleyes:

A simple yes/no answer and a number next to a dollar sign would have sufficed for an answer to this simple poll.

Not a different insult to every different reply posted.

Didn't realize binder owners put together are more vicious than a pack of wolves:mad3: .

Thanks for the replies. I'll relay the usable info over to Mike.

Jeff
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Problems with prilosec (http://www.classactionsettlements.org/lawsuit/prilosec/)