trying to link up the front... going for a reverse 4link with the uppers being straight the lowers in a vee. the uppers are at 42" apart I'll be running 44" tsl's on hummer rims.... I want to run as much backspacing as I can but don't want to hit upper links! can anybody tell me how far their links are apart and/or what is the max I can go

thre's what I have so far........

another

i don't know right off hand how far apart mine are but i am going to the shop in a little while and i will post when i get back.

its all about the go fast holes:D

ttt:D

mine are 35" apart on the axle they are further apart about 40" on the frame. The reason for the difference in the seperation is so the tires wouldn't hit the links while turning. this is with the hubs flipped and about 3 1/2 inches of backspacing.


hope this helps,
Jeremy

bobo, are your hubs flipped out or in? Also, are you talking about your front or rear axle?

The hubs are in. I have the same aet-up front and rear. was originally going to run a reverse four link sort of like this |\/| with the lowers triangulated with about 40 inches of horazontial (sp) seperation but thisdid not allow enough room to turn with 44's so i just angled them in until there was enough room.

Note: this had never been run i don't know how it will work. it is sort of a double triangulated 4 link......but then again not really.


Jeremy

welded links on the front today
uppers are 42" apart 9" up from axle

Does it feel solid when pushed sid to side?

Originally posted by Pook
Does it feel solid when pushed sid to side?

LOL that's the best redneck tip I've heard so far :flipoff2:

-"Ummm, no it feels kinda loose..."

-"Well better triangulate some more...how bout now?"

Originally posted by Starslope


LOL that's the best redneck tip I've heard so far :flipoff2:

-"Ummm, no it feels kinda loose..."

-"Well better triangulate some more...how bout now?"

Not sure if you were being sarcastic but I think this is a decent way to test the suspension. You can push the side of a Jeep with leaf springs and watch the axle move side to side under the body. None of the link suspensions I've built have done that.

CJ

clutter1

1. Was cleaning the housing not the funnest thing you have ever done??
2. Where was your avator pic taken?

Keed up the clean work.

Dan

P.S. Not that you care, but I grew up in Ocean Springs MS. and we used to drive to Slidel LA to buy beer.:D

Looking good Chris!

Are the upper frame mounts in single shear? Are you leaving them like that?

I like the mounts on the axles though:flipoff2:

Dan the pic in his avitar is at bald river falls on the Tenn. side of tellico.

Also my mother in law is from Ocean springs last name of toche.

Chris you do good work!:flipoff2:

yes they are in single sheer but blt2rok has informed me that this is unacceptable and must be remedied:rolleyes: did some work on the crossmember any thoughts?
hey kirshbom where are the pics of this rumored killer bronco????
those axle mounts are a la blt2rok :cool:

:flipoff2:

EB is still in stealth mode, but getting close. Maybe done this week or next. Where are your coils going to mount up on the axles/ Inboard or outboard of the upper link mounts? What about shocks?

coils on the inside of upper links and shocks behind spring and near the stock upper mount

We have no side movement with this setup. steve

Originally posted by clutter1
did some work on the crossmember

Izzat a Toyota crossmember? I bent a couple of those... :(

yes it's a toy crossmember I have gusseted it a little but I'm a little concerned about its strength. any suggestions other than ditching it?

steve.... the rear of mine looks very simular....... trying to stay low so I didn't want to build off the front diff:grinpimp:

Originally posted by clutter1
yes it's a toy crossmember I have gusseted it a little but I'm a little concerned about its strength. any suggestions other than ditching it?

Brace it front-to-back... I've seen a few of 'em mashed vertically, too. Not so many of those, but twisting it on the frame pads (front-to-back) isn't uncommon at all. Doesn't even take a big hit. Basically, run bars off it forward and backward onto the frame... but it's only 1/8" thick steel (if that) throughout, which makes it tough to brace much--brace it good, and you'll tear the mounting bracketry out of it. I'd run braces from your mounting pad, to the framerails.

Truth is, though, you'll probably want to change it soon enough anyway... I'd do it now, while it's apart anyway.

I'm in not position to bash anybody, but I wouldn't trust that stock looking crossmember (t-case) to support the forces that the link suspension will see - not to mention the fact that it's Rockwells.

Otherwise, it's looking like a clean setup.

if you look closely you can tell the crossmember is fliped around (pass. side on driver side) and moved back on the frame... I plan on triangulating off of these unused bolt holes to the front of the crossmember and off the rear back to the frame.......sort of skidplate/stiffner/ramp thing.

and then flogg it and see what happens

:eek:

:)

got the front springs mounted...checking tie rod clearance....everything's tight I thought I'd have more room for the ram!!

another

350 Samuri need some info maybe some pics what's this guy running .......ram size? how's it mounted? to the tie rod? I want to mount my ram parallel to tie tod between housing....... looks like yall had a great ride this weekend.....I'll get my pile running one day.......post up:D

Originally posted by clutter1
350 Samuri need some info maybe some pics what's this guy running .......ram size? how's it mounted? to the tie rod? I want to mount my ram parallel to tie tod between housing....... looks like yall had a great ride this weekend.....I'll get my pile running one day.......post up:D

Hey chris thats kenneth his cylinder on the back is mounted to the tierod, ill get tim to take some pics of it , his front was mounted to a high steer arm that broke all the bolts.

You should have come than you could have seen for yourself.:flipoff2:

shock mount and driveshaft fit-up

Originally posted by clutter1
350 Samuri need some info maybe some pics what's this guy running .......ram size? how's it mounted? to the tie rod? I want to mount my ram parallel to tie tod between housing....... looks like yall had a great ride this weekend.....I'll get my pile running one day.......post up:D

You've owned, what...about 10 Samurais, and you still can't spell it? :flipoff2:

Just weld you a tab on the back side of the housing and run a 10" cylinder to another tab on the tie rod. Be sure and have Matt make you a real tie rod, because the stock duece tie rod is junk.

The reason Kens steering arm broke the bolts out of it was because he had made his own arm and had it mounted on with plain bolts. They never stayed tight and ended up cracking the knuckle where the holes are. He didn't notice until after he put the factory arm back on with the cone washers and they broke. It was a good thing he had rear steering, since he had plenty of spare steeing parts, otherwise we would have been in the woods for a long time.

Did Matt tell you he was "that guy" this weekend? His list of broken parts is L-O-N-G. :flipoff2:

man I need spell checker....I want to put the ram between the tie rod and the housing there is only 20" when turned left from tie rod end to chunk if I try to put ram on top of tie rod the tabs welded near tie rod might hit lower link! any ideas?

Originally posted by clutter1
man I need spell checker....I want to put the ram between the tie rod and the housing there is only 20" when turned left from tie rod end to chunk if I try to put ram on top of tie rod the tabs welded near tie rod might hit lower link! any ideas?

Measure carefully. :flipoff2:

Get Matt to come over there. He has seen all of ours and is full of good ideas. If you have 20", that should be plenty, since the ram is shorter than that.

Clutter.....

I like your adjustable upper spring mounts.....

Originally posted by steve gerstner
We have no side movement with this setup. steve
ROFL!@! (cause you gots no steering hooked up)

Clutter1 are you going to make a new cross member. A idea build one out of 2/3 tubing .250 wall. Its like 7 pounds a foot not to bad and stout to.Then build some base plate out of 3/8's plate and gusett it with some more 3/8's plate. With that set up it want move for shit. The base plates set agaist the frame the longer the better.A piece up the frame rail want hurt.:D Just my 2 cents

I was laying under the truck today measuring for the ram ......I'll think of some redesign on the crossmember

Originally posted by Ramrock
Clutter1 are you going to make a new cross member. A idea build one out of 2/3 tubing .250 wall. Its like 7 pounds a foot not to bad and stout to.Then build some base plate out of 3/8's plate and gusett it with some more 3/8's plate. With that set up it want move for shit. The base plates set agaist the frame the longer the better.A piece up the frame rail want hurt.:D Just my 2 cents

...and then just weld a trailer ball on it. :rolleyes:

(don't forget the safety chains) :flipoff2:

could you give some more info on the axle side coil mounts you used? looks about like what i've been hunting for... also, the adjustable upper mounts... is where the spring mounts just flat stock cut round and welded to 2x2, or is that a complete piece you sourced from somewhere?

the upper and lower spring mounts are just big washers....on the top washer I welded a 3" square 3/16" thick .....drilled 3/8" hole welded a 3/8 bolt and then welded 2"x2"x1/4"square tubing drilled with 1/2" holes every 1 1/2" then 2 1/2"x1/4" wall 4"long on the frame..... to capture the spring I used factory areostar (just flat plate with a notch to keep the spring from spinning)bolted up through the washer


the bottom is a washer with a piece of 4" pipe about 3/4" tall welded to it....... then I drilled and tapped the housing for 3/8" fine thread bolt 1 1/2"x5" flat plate with 1 1/2"x1 1/2"x 1" square tube welded (for a stop) when bolting down bottom of spring.:)

not that anybody cares ...butI got it on it's wheels today :) ...what ya think? it's got adjustable (receiver tubing welded vertically above spring) springs and they are all the way down to get it out of the garage :grinpimp:

onr more

I love it your coil spring mounts look just like mine.... I guess my idea was not so original... he he ..... here is some pics of my set up.... I used coil springs off of a late model YUKON....

front 3 link

lower links and uppe "wishbone" made from 2x2 by .250 with a 5000lb bulldog hitch...(STOUT) no heims to break,,, ever... he he I know its a little on the Redneck side but what Can I say.....

This is a "flex" shot.... notice how high off the ground the frame rails are and the other side of the axle is on the ground....

Last picture I promise.... I dont mean to hyjack....... YOU will totally wish you shaved the diffs for clearance.... I made mine by hand but If I had to do it again I would have bought some pre-made diff covers and just welded them on.. I have 20 inches of clearance under the diff with my 48's measure 49 inches actually...


slick rick

man I dig the diff shave......I have 13.5" from the drain plug.........frame is 35" off ground ......it's 88"wide and 115 wheel base

Ya I am soo glad I did it... I have see tonz of guys draging the diffs over rocks and it is like an anchor.... my truck is 92 inches wide,126 wheelbase(not bad for a 4 door) and frame I am not sure of I would approximate 38-42 inches.... I may go higher depending on flex.... that is one reason I wanted to be so wide.... also my wheels were $25 each and it was either 82 inches with the wheels flipped in or 92 with the centers cut and rewelded (flipped)... I obviously went with the wider, your Toy looks like it should be very capeable(spl) what engine is it? I tried to talk my buddy into rockwells but he "had" to go with Unimogs 404 and he is having a tough time building... those diffs are a lot of work. but I am sure they will be very much worth the work....

Rick

It's got a 4.3 chevy built 700r4 (shift kit, lighter springs in gov,and 2000 stall conv.) toy transfer case ....I like the diff from usa6x6 and wandered if it was worth the money?

looks good chris now get back to work!

What coil springs are yall using?

DC i stated earlier on this thread.... I am using stock gmc Yukon springs off a 2003 4x4...... work perfect.... and cheap... just call any 4x4 shop and see if they will sell you some cheap..... they cant do anything with them....

RIck

man I dig the diff shave......I have 13.5" from the drain plug.........frame is 35" off ground ......it's 88"wide and 115 wheel base



Whatis your axle settup??

Hubs in correct.?
Stock width?
Rim backspacing?

looking at those pics you cant not shave it !

Whatis your axle settup??

Hubs in correct.?
Stock width?
Rim backspacing?

looking at those pics you cant not shave it !


they are stock rockwells......hubs in....8 bolt hummer rims 3.5" backspaceing that seems for me to be the best off set allowing for hummer bead lock stud removal and tie rod clearance

If anyone has some bandwidth, I have some sweet photos of how much clearance you can get if you shave your rocks with the mohawk style. If someone with a good photo hoster lights me up with an email, I'll send these over so you can post these. With a mohawk style shave, you basicaly turn your rock into a bar with a little, well, "pudendum" or (more PC) "epiglottis" hanging down in the middle. I hate to anthropomorphize it as such but it's an accurate depiction - man does it flatten this axle out.

Bob

Well, I don't have a server, but would you mind sending me the pictures anyway, just so I can see them? my e-mail is the one on the link in this post.

could u send me the pics as well?

dehaywardmx@hotmail.com

thx alot

Did you miss the picture of my shaved diff? Mohawk style??

Ok here is another one for yall...

tried out the new bender for the first time :eek: .....I can see why everybody converts to hydro :shaking: "bending tube 101" sure helped ...more that the manual :flipoff2:

simple bends I know but fun for the first time

another

last one .....painted.....

They might be simple bends but they look good...

Full hydro is the only way to go!


I really dig that rear likn arm mount in double sheer.

Did you miss the picture of my shaved diff? Mohawk style??

Ok here is another one for yall...


What about the oil? That wouldn't be a good idea for highway usage right? Its gotta get too hot. I here street users don't fill up their pan all the way anyways because it sloshes out the axle tubes?! But it is oh so sweet. Here is another example: http://www.usa6x6.com/PAN%20AND%20PLUG.jpg
and http://www.usa6x6.com/Ryan%20done%207.psd.jpg

In the 5ton thread were talking about the newer ones being shaved from the factory and how much more(relatively) you can shave the 5tons. Chime in if you have any thoughts

yea I always liked usa6x6's pan ......now that it has a drain plug I think I'll get one when the project gets farther along

I got the hydro ram mounted today.......and reinforced the toyota crossmember.......just waiting on station to send steering column

x member

I may find some in Spain???
Forget the D60 Rockwell all the way !!

Eduardo :confused:

lowered the toy upper shock mounts

rears

Nice work. Will your springs fit in my reciever hitch? :grinpimp: