Anyone got some pics of this running a full width Waggy front end? I am thining aout doing this, but need to see how wide I would be.

Dimitri

Whatcha doing dimitri?? :confused: :D

I'm building, but not sure if I want to go full width or go with a waggy front. Dammit!!!!! Choices, but I need some pics of it.

Dimitri

Originally posted by Flatty
I'm building, but not sure if I want to go full width or go with a waggy front. Dammit!!!!! Choices, but I need some pics of it.

Dimitri

I don't know about a waggy front but d44 are real easy to shorten, and you will hit alot of cones with full width if you know what i mean.

Ian-

You can always pull out the ends off a Cruiser housing and weld on D44 inners, then bolt on GM outers and be done with it, that way you get an axle roughly 60" wide, disc brakes, and a drop out third member. There are a few folks around here doin this, me included.......with a lotta help from my friends (Tankota) he did the welding, Wheelinjp provided some parts, and I'm doin the painting and assembly.

Originally posted by Sixgun
You can always pull out the ends off a Cruiser housing and weld on D44 inners, then bolt on GM outers and be done with it, that way you get an axle roughly 60" wide, disc brakes, and a drop out third member. There are a few folks around here doin this, me included.......with a lotta help from my friends (Tankota) he did the welding, Wheelinjp provided some parts, and I'm doin the painting and assembly.

What are you guys doing about the custom inner shafts and sealing the gear oil in the diff.

sound good though.

Ian-

Tankota is working the seal issue, but basically we are going to run a cruiser inner axle seal on the outside and sleeve the shaft so that we can run two seals where the stock D44 seals rest just on the outside of the third member. In theory the inside seals will act as a baffle to slow the diff fluid down so when it reaches the cruiser seal it dosn't blow it out.....the Cruiser seal will keep mud and water out or the axle housings. D44's, 60's etc allow water and dirt to travel inside the housing up to about 3" from the diffs, I don't like that so we are going to use cruiser and special app. seals to keep the 90w in and the dirt and water out......We'll see how long the seals last.

I think it would just be easier to narrow one side of a dana 44, and then swap that in. The body on a cruiser is 64" wide, and the axle can be narrowed 4" off one side. I just gotta find a fdull width axle that is @65" wide, and find a 9" to match the front. Damn, this is gonna be harder than I thought...

Dimitri

Keep in mind thos 63 inch wide 14 bolts. they are not that hard to find.

Krusty, what are you talking about? Where can I get a 64" wide 14 bolt? I would love to do that

Dimtiri

D60S FF OUT OF CAMPER SPECIALS ARE 65".....JUST FYI.....

I CUT MINE DOWN ANY CONVERTED TO SF....9" ENDS AND FORD EXPLORER DISCS.........NOW ITS 61"...

OH YEAH CHECK OT THE FOR SALE SECTION AND LOOK FOR MY HEADLIGHT HOOP PIC........WILL GET A GOOD IDEA OF THE WIDTH.......IN THAT PIC THE REAR IS 61" AND THE STOCKER FRONT 55".........

Keep in mind that a waggie (at least the '76 one that I had) frontend is 61" WTW with 32" between the centers of the perches. To keep it centered in the vehicle you would have to outboard your cruiser spring mounts cause cruisers only have 27.5" between the centers of the perches (or was it 27"?).

14 bolts (full floaters) that came out of cab and chassis rigs had different hubs that make the WTW distance 63".

One out of a regular bed pickup will be 67".

The only difference in the cab and chassis housing and a regular truck housing is the backing plate flange is welded on a couple of inches further towards the pumpkin.