Can it be done? Where?

I'm considering a major engine buildup project, and I have a couple of Craftsman wrenches, both of which have seen a lot of use. I'm just wondering if I should still trust them, and if there's a way to get them checked and calibrated. :confused:

If they are deflecting beam type you can calibrate it yourself. These torque wrenches are not acurate though.
If you have the break away you have to take them to a competent calibration shop, good luck finding one, to get it recalibrated. Not to mention the cost, it would be cheaper to buy a new one.....If you have ever dropped your torque wrench it will be out of wack. If you have never dropped the torque wrench, I doubt seriously that it out of calibration. It may be a Ft Lb or a couple of In Lbs off, but your not building a space shuttle so its not that critical. Most torque values have +or- 5 lbs either way to allow for variations.:skull:

Dont worry bout it. Snap on sells stuff to calibrate torque wrenches if you must.

Thanks. These are both the click-style wrenches. I don't recall ever dropping either wrench, but I often carry my larger one on trail rides. I try to remember to crank them back to their lowest setting, but...

I'm asking because I've actually snapped a couple of bolts with them now, way before they should have. One was a flywheel bolt! And I also stripped one of the cam bearing mounts in my 22R head, even though I was being very careful. Had to have it Heli-coiled.

Can't you just take them back to Sears and get a free replacement? That's what I do with my worn out Craftsman tools.
Boss

Originally posted by Boss
Can't you just take them back to Sears and get a free replacement? That's what I do with my worn out Craftsman tools.
Boss

Craftsman torque wrenches are only guaranteed for 90 days. The salesman made sure I knew this when I bought it years ago, but it's not common knowledge. He said they had to do this because people were using them like breaker bars, knocking them out of calibration. Then they'd get pissed when they were snapping and stripping stuff. :mad3:

Thanks for letting me know. I didn't realize that. But I don't think the sales people at the Sears I go to knows either. Bunch of young HS dudes/chics just working the counter:D .
Boss

If it's the click type, leaving it cranked up, rather than the lowest setting, will put it out quite a bit - prob why you've broken stuff in the past.

Having it calibrated comercially can be $$ though. It may well be cheaper to buy a new craftsman or Husky.

The way they calibrate them at work (aircraft mechs) - they have a huge dial indicator (who calibrates it I have no idea :-). You just set the wrench, attach it, and torque on it, reading the actual value from the indicator. Has to be done for sever different settings in the range. Depending how far off it is, either attache a label stating the variance, or adjust the spring mechanism till it's accurate.

Could you not check it out yourself?

Put a bolt in your vise, put the torque wrench on it sticking out horizontally, then hang a bucket off the handle and add water until it clicks. Then weigh the bucket of water, measure the distance from the bolt to where you had the bucket hanging, and then calculate the ft/lbs? You'd be off by the weight of the handle, but that's probably fairly insignificant (a couple of ft/lbs at best).

And then try it at a few different settings as Bill mentioned.

I've never done it, but seems like it would be fairly accurate...?

Actually, you don't need a bolt. I just put the square drive part in the vise.

Pete

well, craftsman sells a electronic torque bar that plugs into a multi meter, what you could do is get that kit ($650 its worth it) set the torque wrench to say 50 ft-lbs and put the other end of the torque bar in a vise and crank on it until it clicks or the multi meter reads 50 lbs. expensive yes, but think about all the money you can make on the side doing stuff liek that for otehr people.
BTW craftsman part number is 9-OT3550

Originally posted by ErikB
Put a bolt in your vise, put the torque wrench on it sticking out horizontally, then hang a bucket off the handle and add water until it clicks. Then weigh the bucket of water, measure the distance from the bolt to where you had the bucket hanging, and then calculate the ft/lbs? You'd be off by the weight of the handle, but that's probably fairly insignificant (a couple of ft/lbs at best).

Yeah, this is probably what I will do, just for an interesting project. I actually thought about this before, but was wondering if there was an "official" way to get them calibrated. Hmm... checked the phone book... nothing there under "Torque Wrench Calibrators"... :D

I've also put the click-type wrench in a vise (wrapped in a rag), then used a 1/2" square-drive socket to connect an older beam-style wrench to it. Pushed on the older wrench till the other clicked, they should be the same, right? It actually worked, but wasn't sure I should trust it.

The other thing that makes me wonder is when I was recently swappng my axles. S'posed to put 90 ft-lbs on the U-bolts. Man, I was bustin a nut pushing on that damned wrench trying to get it to click. But I also put 90 ft-lbs on my lug nuts, it always clicks really easily. Doesn't make sense to me, force on the wrench handle should be the same, right? :confused:

Industry standard for torque wrench accuarcy is ±4.0% and they should be calibrated at least once a year. Should cost around $20 - 40$ at any competent lab. Do a web search for "CALIBRATION LABORATORY"

If you can't find a lab in your neighborhood email me and I'll try to find one for you. I calibrate them here in NV but shipping costs may be a little steep.

For what it's worth, because an item is new doesn't always mean it's within tolerance. This especially applies to torque wrenches and pressure gauges. New failure rates are in the area of 20%

The other thing that makes me wonder is when I was recently swappng my axles. S'posed to put 90 ft-lbs on the U-bolts. Man, I was bustin a nut pushing on that damned wrench trying to get it to click. But I also put 90 ft-lbs on my lug nuts, it always clicks really easily. Doesn't make sense to me, force on the wrench handle should be the same, right? :confused: [/B][/QUOTE]

Dont forget to factor in the :beer: factor in a situation like this.:D

Like Erik said...do it yourself. Gravity is pretty constant.....

spoolnaround....were you reusing u-bolts? If so, that would explain your torque problems.
Jay

Originally posted by ROKTOY
spoolnaround....were you reusing u-bolts? If so, that would explain your torque problems.
Jay

That was me, yes I was reusing them, but they are in very good condition, the rears are OMEs that I bought new 2 years ago. But I still don't see how that would make a difference. Torque is torque. What am I missing?:confused:

Your right....torque is torque. I mis-spoke.

I was thinking about reusing u-bolts and hitting torque before they clamp well. Sorry.
Jay

Put the head of the torque wrench in the end of a vise. Mark one foot out from the center of the head. Hang 20 lbs of a known weight on that mark. That is 20 ft lbs of torque. It doesn't matter on the weight thought, just as long as your wrench will read it.

Originally posted by KLF


The other thing that makes me wonder is when I was recently swappng my axles. S'posed to put 90 ft-lbs on the U-bolts. Man, I was bustin a nut pushing on that damned wrench trying to get it to click. But I also put 90 ft-lbs on my lug nuts, it always clicks really easily. Doesn't make sense to me, force on the wrench handle should be the same, right? :confused:

Torquing u-bolts, you are pulling horizontally and are in a more cramped/confined situation. Torquing nug luts, you are pushing down toward the ground and have lots of room to work with.

Pete