Chief yelling alot
11-03-2003, 08:03 PM
finily got the pics developed
I have ~50.00 cn into my entire high steer setup
top
http://pics.montypics.com/vhf/2003-11-03/1067914832_arm1.jpg
yeah I know i'm not supost to use cap screws but I had a box of em so what the hell, I'm sure its stout enough, I ve seen lots of people run them with no probs
front
http://pics.montypics.com/vhf/2003-11-03/1067914922_arm2.jpg
side
http://pics.montypics.com/vhf/2003-11-03/1067915015_arm3.jpg
JoshC
11-03-2003, 08:06 PM
looks good. Yer gonna get a reamer in there and use studs and cone washers right?
Chief yelling alot
11-03-2003, 08:10 PM
Originally posted by JoshC
looks good. Yer gonna get a reamer in there and use studs and cone washers right?
I'm using the cone washers withe the cap screws they are grade 8 (its hard to see)
RustoleumWhite
11-04-2003, 08:27 AM
IMO, the cone washer's are the key, the studs are just the iceing on the cake.
I would prefer studs, but have been running grade 8 bolts since I did my high-steer, and has been fine (even with only 2 bolts on one side, man I'm lasy).
When I build the new axle (when??), I'll go studs and "proper" parts... but for now, I just check them.
Looks good Cheif... not "polished" or perfectly finished or trimed, but works.
$50 is about right... with re-used componantes (such as that used GL)... its the "all new" componates that add the expence to jut about everything ($25 US each atleast for the TRE/DLE's..)
you doing full high-steer, or just the DL?
JoshC
11-04-2003, 09:20 AM
Originally posted by RustoleumWhite
IMO, the cone washer's are the key, the studs are just the iceing on the cake.
Hmmm? For whatevery reason the same doesn't seem to be true for D60 arms. There are a bunch of manuufacturers and very few with tapered holes for conical washers. I plan on using studs for sure so I can use the metal lock nuts... like the ones I use on my heims for my 4-link.
scrout
11-04-2003, 10:04 AM
Chief,
Are those welded/stacked 1/4 plates??
Can you provide your secrets without
having to kill us afterwards?
Chief yelling alot
11-04-2003, 04:05 PM
Originally posted by scrout
Chief,
Are those welded/stacked 1/4 plates??
Can you provide your secrets without
having to kill us afterwards?
nope just 1 1/2" plate and a cutting torch
Chief yelling alot
11-04-2003, 04:08 PM
Originally posted by RustoleumWhite
you doing full high-steer, or just the DL?
just the drag link for now
Snoopy
11-05-2003, 08:48 AM
Originally posted by JoshC
looks good. Yer gonna get a reamer in there and use studs and cone washers right?
I use Grade8 bolts too ~ But I drilled and tapped to 5/8" - 18 tpi and then had my machinist bore out the spacers & conical washers to 5/8 as well ~ I also used thread locker and lock-nuts.
The biggest arguements against using bolts in a HySteer setup is that the *could* loosen up. I haven't run into this yet, but I do keep an eye out for it. Its actually part of my list of things to check when I swap out the fluids or after a tough trail.
D
troutbum
11-05-2003, 09:47 AM
man chief I didn't expect that from you...I thought you were the IH booty fab rep... ;)
Looks clean
Chief yelling alot
11-05-2003, 03:13 PM
Originally posted by troutbum
I thought you were the IH booty fab rep... ;)
Looks clean
I still am;)
Reck Tom
11-07-2003, 08:18 AM
Piece of cheep hot roll steel - $10 cdn
3) 9/16-18 grade 8 bolts - $10 cdn
Refill acetylene tanks - $30 cdn
Chapped ASS from all the ASS kissers in the chat room ! "PRICELESS":flipoff2:
Chief yelling alot
11-07-2003, 01:01 PM
Originally posted by Reck Tom
Piece of cheep hot roll steel - $10 cdn
3) 9/16-18 grade 8 bolts - $10 cdn
Refill acetylene tanks - $30 cdn
Chapped ASS from all the ASS kissers in the chat room ! "PRICELESS":flipoff2:
:confused: