Is it easy to replace the vacuum switch on an NP-231? I lost 4wd a couple weeks ago and found that a nut that holds the switch tight had sheared in half (probably due to the extreme cold). I don't know if I can get a new nut or just have to replace the whole switch.

Was wondering how much it cost, and if it was tricky to install. I finally will have a chance to get under there this weekend, and my Hanes manual doesn't tell me sh!t. I figure this board is the best source of knowledge available to me.

thx.

I'm having trouble picturing the "nut" you are talking about. If I remember right the switch on the 231 is either on the top or kind of on the back of it and it is a one piece unit with six flat sides, like the whole thing is a nut.

??:confused:

Yup, the ones on my 231 don't have a nut. The whole switch is kinda hex shaped so you can put a crescent wrench on it or vise grips. The best thing to do is to rig upa rock lock type cable actuated disconnect or you will constantly be replacing that switch. I replaced it abour four times before I gave up.

hey ghetto, did you do the disconnect your self? From your name I am guessing yes. I want one, but don't want to pay 200 bux for the damn thing. Any advice on how to go about doing it?

Nut ?
You pull off the "3" line vac connector,unscrew with a wrench.Screw in the new one and push on the vac plug.
No abla nut ?

Check the "2 low" article at my site for one idea

Originally posted by Phikap
hey ghetto, did you do the disconnect your self? From your name I am guessing yes. I want one, but don't want to pay 200 bux for the damn thing. Any advice on how to go about doing it?

Yup, I did it myself and it has worked great for the last two years, but now there is a nice new Ford 60 going under it.:D
Here's what I did: Take the whole vacuum shifter assembly off the axle and clean it up real good with mechanic's soap. Drill a hole (5/16s or so) through both sides of the housing and through the shift fork. You will run a bolt through these holes so that the shift fork glides along this bolt when you shift. On the bolt you will put a spring that pushes the shift fork toward the two wheel drive position. Now drill a very small hole (just big enough for the shift cable) through the housing and through the shift fork, Run the cable from the cab to the front axle, through the hole in the housing, and then attatch it through the hole in the shift fork. I just used a bike shifter from the local bike shop. When you pull the lever it pulls the cable and that pulls the shift fork against the spring into the four wheel drive position. When I push the lever the other way the spring returns it to the two wheel drive position.
Did that make sense?

nice, that sounds simple! One question though, where do I get the cable? I got old clutch and brake cables, for dirtbikes and quads, that I could probably rig up, but I would prefer a nice new one that I don't have to N rig. What did you use? can you get a replacement cable from that 200 dollar kit for cheap?

I used a shifter from a bike shop, nothing else would be ghetto enough! Just make sure it is the indexed kind that clicks into place, otherwise the spring will just push it back into 2WD.

nice solution. I'm having same problem

For a temporary fix until you can a cable system hooked up, try this. Pull the motor off the axle and slide the fork into place engaging the collar. Pull the vacuum lines off the diaphragm and cap the vavle with rubber vacuum line caps. The fork WILL NOT move and the collar will stay engaged. I've catually been running this wat for the past few month with out a problem, too lazy to install the Posi Lok.

5 min fix
my vacuum switch on my YJ has been dead for awhile now. I'm so lazy. what I do is just pop the hood and swap a few vacuum lines around and it works.

take the red vacuum line directly off the motor that noramly goes down to the TC switch and connect it to the yellow line that goes directly to the Vacuum motor. actually it is more envolved then that, but it's simple.

the vacuum motor has three vacuum fittings. one to connect, one to disconnect and one for feed back to turn on the green 4wd light. also when the vacuum motor is engaged you will not be able to rotate it easily.

the fitting closest to the diff is the feedback(1), the next one is for 4WD(2) and the next one over\on the side is for 2WD(3).

I ran a vacuum hose from (1) directly to the blue vacuum sensor next to the batt, used to turn on the 4wd light. and 2 hoses connected dirrectly to the each of the other two fittings. I just connect one of the two hoses directly to vacuum to engage or disable the front axle. vacuum to (2), then the disco connects. vacuum to (3) and you are disconnected.