should I use locktite on bead locks or anti seaze? I don't want to lose a bolt. and I want to make sure the bead is torqed correctly...

Probably neither.

You have to ask the manufacturer whether their torque spec is for clean dry thread - and it most likely is.

If so, anything else on there can dramatically change the stretch of the bolt for a given torque - resulting usually in way overstressed, if not broken, bolts.

see my post in "wheel fell off" thread for more info

Defnitely no locktite. This will cause you problems. The torque specs on every beadlock I have seen are for dry. Just torque them on correctly and you won't have any probs:)

if you have Alum champions use antisieze !! so the thread's won't Gall because 2 different metals this is recomended by Mylan the owner of champion wheel.

and if you have Steel beadlocks use nothing at all!!!!!!!!!!!!!

just tighten to Spec's

Adam,

We use antiseize on the Champion wheels on the Class 8 truck. We torque by hand because we've broken to many bolts when useing the supplied specs and a torque wrench.

Jason :)

Originally posted by Brutpwr
We use antiseize on the Champion wheels on the Class 8 truck. We torque by hand because we've broken to many bolts when useing the supplied specs and a torque wrench.

Jason :)

where are you guys racing your 8 truck? we will be running mdr next year and so will desertoy.

Champions installation instructions say to use Anti-Seize on the bolts and torque them (3/8") to 15 ft/lbs.

Originally posted by Rubicrawler
Champions installation instructions say to use Anti-Seize on the bolts and torque them (3/8") to 15 ft/lbs.

I Anii-Seize my Champions as well, but I torque less than the the specs. I only use 144 in/lbs (12 ft/lbs). I check them frequently, before and after every trip. My philosophy is: As long as they hold air and the bolts don't fly off, they are tight enough.

Originally posted by Brutpwr
We use antiseize on the Champion wheels on the Class 8 truck. We torque by hand because we've broken to many bolts when useing the supplied specs and a torque wrench.

Jason :)

So... you just do it by feel???

If you were breaking 3/8" Grade 8 bolts, you must have been torquing the hell out of those bolts. Specs are only 15 ft/lbs.

If you think you HAVE to use something the blue locktite is designed to be applied after the bolts are torqued. You would have to clean the holes and the bolts if you had to remove them. I would stay away from it if possible. :)

Originally posted by MattS
If you think you HAVE to use something the blue locktite is designed to be applied after the bolts are torqued. You would have to clean the holes and the bolts if you had to remove them. I would stay away from it if possible. :)

This is what I was gonna say, it has a "creep" agent in it that alows it to get in between the threads of an assembled peice. Its handy to have around for no other reason then if you forgot to put some red on before you put it together!

It's not quite as simple as red before assembly, blue after.

There are many different products and strengths, and only so many colours.

They have a great tech site though, and a ton of good pdfs to download so you can get the right product for the job.

i just downloaded about 40 !

http://www.loctite.com

Originally posted by Adam Ant
if you have Alum champions use antisieze !! so the thread's won't Gall because 2 different metals this is recomended by Mylan the owner of champion wheel.

and if you have Steel beadlocks use nothing at all!!!!!!!!!!!!!

just tighten to Spec's

Adam,

Maybe you should start with torquing your bedlocks first :flipoff2:

If you were breaking 3/8" Grade 8 bolts, you must have been torquing the hell out of those bolts. Specs are only 15 ft/lbs.

No kidding! here's the specs (max) if ya need 'em
The clamp values are in in-lbs, the dry and lub are in ft-lbs.

Grade 5 Grade 8
clamp dry lub clamp dry lub
3/8-16 4950 30 23 7000 45 35
3/8-24 5600 35 25 7900 50 35