If you don't drive it on the road at all please don't reply. I want to get rid of the vibes that I keep having with the front Toyota driveshaft in the rear of my Samurai. I'm running a rear Toyota PU axle in the back of my rig. I've tried three different Toyota driveshafts back there with no luck. So who is running a CV driveshaft in the rear with a Toyota center input axle with NO vibrations on & off road? Which CV driveshaft did you buy ie. High Angle Drivelines, AAPA, RRO, Woody's, etc. How much was your driveshaft?
Thanks.

I'm running a Tom Wood's rear drive shaft in a GEO Tracker with a dual Toyota t-case and tranny, and SOS RingR, behind a 1.6L engine................

Not a problem.......................

i am runing a Front toyota "84 or 85" cv driveshaft in the rear of my zuk. I bought the adapters from Rockrat, they are really nice peices...like i thought that i would over tighten the bolts and it would strip but i torqued the fuck outta em and they didnt even begin to strip. I have no vibes at all with it. and my axle is moved back like 3.5 inches.

Originally posted by tippyzuk
i am runing a Front toyota "84 or 85" cv driveshaft in the rear of my zuk. I bought the adapters from Rockrat, they are really nice peices...like i thought that i would over tighten the bolts and it would strip but i torqued the fuck outta em and they didnt even begin to strip. I have no vibes at all with it. and my axle is moved back like 3.5 inches.
So you have NO vibrations BUT,..BUTTTT!!! you moved your axle back 3.5" huh? hmmm.....

I know 78mphgpr is running on the street with no vibes also, But,,,, But he just like the other guy are running yota CV shafts, not non yota cv like you asked.

Anybody know what years/tranny had the shorter CV driveshaft that will bolt right in on a Samurai with stock W.B. & t-case?

Anybody know what years/tranny had the shorter CV driveshaft that will bolt right in on a Samurai with stock W.B. & t-case?

Rockrat is right. 70+ mph without a vibe, a little scary, but no vibe.

79-83 4 cyl 4x4 is the shorterone. On 84-85 is a little longer and may or may not fit depending on lift. 86 and up are out of the question, they are even longer by 4"

Originally posted by 78mphgpr
Rockrat is right. 70+ mph without a vibe, a little scary, but no vibe.
Oh REALLLY....That's with a CENTERED input rear axle, with some lift like a SPOA, close to a stock SAmurai wheelbase, & a Samurai off-set output t-case?
There may be hope for me :)

heres his rig Bill
http://tellico.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/1204402-cage%20015.jpg

I just finished mine and i used a 85 front shaft i had to have it shortened but I have no vibes

Originally posted by Wyld Bill
If you don't drive it on the road at all please don't reply. I want to get rid of the vibes that I keep having with the front Toyota driveshaft in the rear of my Samurai. I'm running a rear Toyota PU axle in the back of my rig. I've tried three different Toyota driveshafts back there with no luck. So who is running a CV driveshaft in the rear with a Toyota center input axle with NO vibrations on & off road? Which CV driveshaft did you buy ie. High Angle Drivelines, AAPA, RRO, Woody's, etc. How much was your driveshaft?
Thanks.

Beating a dead horse into the ground, but..

Did you point the rear axle up at the CV joint when you welded on the spring pads? If you did not, then you will have vibrations.

-Wayne

p.s. Just to brag, I run Toy CVs front and rear. The rear has no vibrations all the way up to 90 mph. I don't think I have been faster than that. (Yet)

Ok, OK I get it. No need in throwing away money on a aftermarket d-shaft if the Toyota ones are working for a lot of you guys.
Here's the plan> I have tomorrow off so I'm gonna go to a local guys house. He has like 25 Toyota 4x4s behind his house. I'm gonna find one or two of the short front driveshafts that seem tight & buy them. I'm gonna put one in my Zook. If it STILL vibrates I'm gonna buy a ROckRat adapter & toss out the one I had made up locally. If I put in the adapter with the driveshaft & IT STILL VIBRATES I'm gonna shoot myself!!!...................................







Or order one of those R.G. offset axles:rolleyes:

Originally posted by Wyld Bill
Ok, OK I get it. No need in throwing away money on a aftermarket d-shaft if the Toyota ones are working for a lot of you guys.
Here's the plan> I have tomorrow off so I'm gonna go to a local guys house. He has like 25 Toyota 4x4s behind his house. I'm gonna find one or two of the short front driveshafts that seem tight & buy them. I'm gonna put one in my Zook. If it STILL vibrates I'm gonna buy a ROckRat adapter & toss out the one I had made up locally. If I put in the adapter with the driveshaft & IT STILL VIBRATES I'm gonna shoot myself!!!...................................

Or order one of those R.G. offset axles:rolleyes:

I do not think that your driveshaft is the problem. check your angles.

Angles of what dood??:mad: YES the damn pinion is pointing at the stupid flange on the t-case! I am running a Spidertrax type traction bar with 1-1/2 lifted YJs. I know the that I am running a compound angle but other are without vibes.:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :flipoff2:
















Thanks for tying to help though Wayne just getting sick of being asked about my pinion angle;)

heres a new question for you.... are any of your t case mounts broken or stretched? also see if your t case arm is bent. I used to blow up stock sammy driveshafts all day long with a spoa with adda a leafs in the rear with rears up front..... ask Aftermarket 4x4 i went to his house twice in about a weeks time and before i left my d shaft i noticed was toasted...neither could be repaired or u joints replaced. all becasue of some stupid mounts. But i would go with the rat adapters straight out just so u dotn have to worry about your shaft falling out of ur truck.

Well excuse me.. I have been skim reading, so maybe I missed your reply.

Vibrations can be hard to track down. But it sounds like you just keep throwing more driveshafts at it hoping that will cure it. That is not a solution.

Good luck with it.

-Wayne

p.s. you might try posting up some pictures of your driveline. we might get lucky and spot something.

Originally posted by tippyzuk
heres a new question for you.... are any of your t case mounts broken or stretched? also see if your t case arm is bent. I used to blow up stock sammy driveshafts all day long with a spoa with adda a leafs in the rear with rears up front..... ask Aftermarket 4x4 i went to his house twice in about a weeks time and before i left my d shaft i noticed was toasted...neither could be repaired or u joints replaced. all becasue of some stupid mounts. But i would go with the rat adapters straight out just so u dotn have to worry about your shaft falling out of ur truck.
Yeah just snapped a little bit nothing personal. Here's blurry picture of me setting the pinion angle. You really can't see my t-case in the picture though
http://www.fototime.com/38D96BA32AE8540/standard.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/5AF7689DB3CC1E0/standard.jpg

Damn, makes my rear shaft look long.

http://rz-products.com/WAYNE/UPDATES/030624/waynes1%20054.jpg

I was hoping to see the 2 shaft halfs out of alignment, or something silly. Looks good to me though.

When I was setting my driveline up (all Toyota) the first pass was going to be a rather short drive shaft, and a big angle down to the pumkin. Since I had the luxury of moving the t-case forward, and down a bit, I did. This made all angles for the shaft much better. You do not have these options of course, but I'm wondering if you simply have more spring lift then others.

2 options you might think about are less spring lift (yeah I know, not what you want to hear) or move the axale as far back as possible (so it almost rubs the fuel tank.)

Or like you said, move the chunk to the side. Again, with lots of lift you may still have an issue.

Oh, one more thing, for shits and grins... How much slip yoke is exposed when the vehicle is parked on level ground? (how much up travel does it have?)

-Wayne

Originally posted by rotozuk
Damn, makes my rear shaft look long.

http://rz-products.com/WAYNE/UPDATES/030624/waynes1%20054.jpg


Yours IS long compared to mine.. My rear shaft is the top one, the middle one is from a pile I had..

http://www.explorerforum.com/tdavis/zuk/driveshaft.jpg

It's a total of 20 inches long..

whoa!:eek: Did you inboard your rear springs (OT I know)??? I was thinking of doing that & then putting in a rear steer axle (Toyota front reversed) this would take care of my compound angle problem:D

[i] IT STILL VIBRATES I'm gonna shoot myself!!!...................................[/B]

Sounds like a plan!


lol

http://www.fototime.com/38D96BA32AE8540/standard.jpg

Here's one for ya...Did you set the pinion angle with the springs unloaded?
It does look as if the axle stands are under the frame but I notice the jack under the diff....it is lifting the diff to compress the springs full load?

Originally posted by Wyld Bill
whoa!:eek: Did you inboard your rear springs (OT I know)??? I was thinking of doing that & then putting in a rear steer axle (Toyota front reversed) this would take care of my compound angle problem:D

Yes, springs are inboard. I also made up a custom tank that would clear the springs better, and hold more fuel. I have seen it done with a custom tank, but the guy had to stay on top of his springs fanning out a bit. they tended to hit the tank.

While on the subject of inset springs. I am using a hybrid mix of leafs, but it is based on Toyota rears. I have been trying to find the right combination of leafs back there. Side to side is great on my vehicle, but the spring rate for the high speed trail stuff has been a little tough to work out. Too soft and she bottoms out, too stiff and feel every bump. She is currently on the stiff side. Also throws off some of the flex. Probably go back to a bit soft and add some bump stops for the occasional bottoming out.

I can not and would not recommend a steering axle in the back unless it is a Dana 60 or so in strength. I also can not recommend the high pinion Toy for the rear. I know Tdavis runs this with fair luck, but I'm not a fan of that setup.

-Wayne

this thread has been very helpfull to me since i have been debating whether or not to go with offset or centered diff.

my rig is a daily driver and now i know that i can run a center diff with no probs. ill lean more towards that now.

if you were to do it again and had the choice what would it be?
regardless of it being a d44 or a toy. offset or centered?

yes i do know its about a cv shaft question but would you need it if it was offset.

thanks from another newbie

:D

Well, just so you know I'm STILL fighting my driveline vibrations issues. I've been talking to a driveline expert in person on a DAILY basis. As far as I can tell those that are running a single C/V driveshaft without ANY vibrations are either BSing us OR they haven't driven thier rig enough on the road yet for the driveshaft to start self destructing & vibrating.
Just for the Heel of it the guy I've been talking to is gonna make me up a brand new CV driveshaft with all Spicer parts with a new flange to go on my t-case to correctly adapt to the Spicer CV joint flange. I'll let you all know wether it vibrates when I first put it in and how long it takes before it starts the vibrate.;)

Mine is a double CV shaft out of the front of an 85 Yota 4 runner. It only cost me $30 to have it cut down and $50 for a Rockrat adapter.

I am running the 85 toyota front cv shaft and my rear pinion has been rotated about 2-3 degrees, no vibes really...but maybe when i run the 2 in lifted yjs spoa and my 35x12.5x15 MT/Rs i may have vibes for more of an angle. Now the stock sammy driveshaft will allow more travel as far as degrees than a toyota shaft just otlet u know, i found this out from brent at trailtough last night. When u use a stock rear shaft you are NOT supposed to rotate the pinion becasue the u joints will travel at different speeds and self destruct. BUT when u run a constant velocity (CV) shaft you ARE supposed to rotate the pinion! Just a little heads up cuz i feel many people arent realizing this:)

Well, just so you know I'm STILL fighting my driveline vibrations issues. I've been talking to a driveline expert in person on a DAILY basis. As far as I can tell those that are running a single C/V driveshaft without ANY vibrations are either BSing us OR they haven't driven thier rig enough on the road yet for the driveshaft to start self destructing & vibrating.

Good call we are all bullshitting you

Originally posted by DannyL


Here's one for ya...Did you set the pinion angle with the springs unloaded? ........

You haven't replied to this question, this could be the key your are looking for. If the springs were unloaded your pinion angle is wrong.