i was wondering if i could remove the timing cover, with the head on, with out f'ing the head gasket. because im getting a rebuilt motor, but i have metal backed timing guides from doa that i want to put in.:confused: thanks

yes but you have to pull the distributor and drive gear and get the bolt that is down in the distributor drive gear oil sump.

I helped a friend do this last weekend. We pulled the timing cover without pulling the head. Would I want to do it that way again?? Nope. I found it much easier to just lift the head, replace the head gasket, do the timing, all at the same time. My personal opinion. And it is not worth much...:flipoff2:

oh man, I did just that, removed all the shite to get to the timing cover, replaced the timing stuff, a whole bunch of other stuff put it back together, forgot to rtv between the head and the cover, pulled the cover, second set of gaskets back on, broke the bolt that drops down from the head into the cover, removed the cover again, backed the broken bolt out, third set of gaskets went to put back on the cover, head gasket got pissed at being fawked with three times got all bound up, so I ended up doing the head gasket. It was great fun.

If I was to do it again, I would just plan to do it all at once, it sucks to have the RTV between your timing cover and head gasket anyways, might as well just do it all. Once everything is apart its not much to pull the head. If it was just rebuilt I would say dont screw with it at all wait till you've got some miles then do the chain when it needs it, or if you really want to do it, at least you know nothing is frozen, it'll be easy to do it all.

It is easier to get the cover back on without disturbing the head gasket if you pull the pan...that way you can also make sure you have a good leak free seal where the bottom of the cover meets the pan. It is also a good time to replace the front seal, fel-pro timing cover kit is pretty cheap and includes the gaskets for the cover.

it wont have a pan or distributor, its gonna be a long block engine. im just wondering if i can put the metal backed guides on with out fing the headgasket, i dont wanna pull the head. if it cant be done, ill just deal with the plastic guides. i mean the guides arnt really a problem untill the chain stretches, and starts slapping the guide right? i guess the engine would last atleast 150000mi.

If it is just a long block you definitely won't have to pull the head. Metal guides are a good idea but if you run genuine Toyota oil filters with the anti-drainback valve you can get over 150K with an OEM chain/guides. An aftermarket japanese made chain (OSK) will rival OEM quality for a fraction of the price. Peace of mind is also worth something...I would put the metal guides with a good chain, use toyota filters and never worry about it again.

so i still definately have to put rtv between the cover and the head gasket?:confused:

Originally posted by tanman2003
so i still definately have to put rtv between the cover and the head gasket?:confused:

It would be a good idea, better safe than sorry:D

The write up i read said to do it, it would suck after all that work to have shite leaking just cause you didnt put a little RTV

Originally posted by blacktoy


It would be a good idea, better safe than sorry:D

True Dat!