Driver's side came apart sweet - even the cone washers popped right out. Ready to pull the end caps off the passenger side, but I can't get the tie rod end to budge! Screwed the nut back on and wailed on it, to no avail. Used a pickle fork half-heartedly, don't want to tear up the joint as it's almost new. :mad3:

Anybody know any tricks on how to get em off without tearing up the boot, or hurting the joint???

Gonna go out and pull the chunk out until I figure something out....:D

You don't need to remove the relay rod from the steering arms - they can stay attached and the TRE doesn't need to come out.

I mean, if you want to replace TREs then I guess you have to pull them. But if you're doing a knuckle job leave both steering arms attached to the relay rod.

Here's my knuckle rebuild write-up (http://www.birfield.com/~morgan/tech/axle/index.html).

Good luck! Get a TRE puller - pickle fork will destroy the TRE for sure.

Morgan

Yes, Morgan is right: You don't have to separate the tie rod ends to replace the knuckle bearing. OTOH, if you need to separate the tie rod end, go ahead and beat on it with the BFH and the pickle fork. No need to be half hearted about it. I have done it many times just to change the rubber boots. If you want to preserve your rubber boot, first detach it from the top of the TRE, and squish it down between the teeth of the pickle fork before you whack it. It comes right out.

Ok cool - No need to pull the tie rod end. How do you check preload with everything still connected?

1. Do one side and measure the preload with the other side free. Make sure it is within specifications.
2. Do the other side and measure the preload of the two knuckles: the preload of the one side plus the preload of the other side equals two times the specified preload for one side.