: Holy Sh#t I'm Committed


DJForrestA
11-12-2003, 09:18 PM
Well fellas I put my scout up on blocks today. I didn't want to quit driving it. I'm loving the SB Chevy and the turbo 400. Actually if I just had a Front Driveshaft built I'd be good to go. But since I can't seem to drive it for more than a month between major projects here goes. I've got the FS chevy axles with 4.56 poised and ready to roll. I've got most of the parts I need for the swap. I need recomendations on arms. With this skyjacker springover I know I'll need spacers and at least 38 inch tires. I'm leaning toward some shakerbuilt arms at 115 for the pair. I also wondered if I'll be using my drop pitman arm or my stock pitman arm. Do I need to reverse it or leave it in its stock position? And last but not least you grumpy bastards can I use the stock drag link and Tie rod off my 73 scout or off the 1978 chevy 3=4 ton. Let me say you're all a bunch of hosers up front before I get accused of not searching ( I have Been) and get ripped for doing a springover on 4 inch lift springs. Thanks

PS I've got some cool elk hunting mostly scenery I'll be posting as soon as I crack open the vault and cough up the twenty bucks.

Word to your collective mothers.

Mechanos
11-12-2003, 09:49 PM
If you're gonna use "conventional" length arms instead of rediculously long Scout II length steering arms, you'll want to ditch the SII pitman arm for somelike a Waggy pitman or you'll ass up your steering ratio. I like the Parts Mike Super Arms and if need be, he has .5" or 1" spacers. With the 1" spacers, you'd need longer studs, but Part Mike has those too.....

DJForrestA
11-12-2003, 10:58 PM
I'm using the longer scout length arms. Is that good?

slipscomb
11-12-2003, 11:03 PM
Originally posted by DJForrestA
I've got the FS chevy axles with 4.56 poised and ready to roll. can I use the stock drag link and Tie rod off my 73 scout or off the 1978 chevy 3=4 ton.

First off, if you are using Full Size chevy axles your Scout drag link and tie rod will be too short.

Second, the 3/4 ton drag link and tie rod will be MUCH stronger than the stock Scout stuff.

DJForrestA
11-12-2003, 11:39 PM
Okay I've been pouring over my search pages and their is alot of info already written. My remaining questions are: If I use Shakerbuilt arms which are standard length am I gonna want to use my drop pitman arm, my stock pitman arm, or a wagoneer pitman arm? Or Vice Versa, If I find a scout lenght Hi Steer arm what pitman arm do I use? I guess I'm mostly looking for advice on what parts are the best and safest to use. I've only got enough money to do this once so I'm gonna be grateful for your previous experience Dads. Also I promise to be home by curfew this time. LOL

Mechanos
11-13-2003, 07:17 AM
What ever arms you use... you need to match your pitman arm to it. If you use SII length arms, then you'll want to use a long pitman like the SII. If you use normal length arms, you'll want to use a shorter pitman arm... like a Waggy, a Ford or Dodge, etc. IF you don't match your pitman arm length to your steering arm length, you throw your steering ratio all out of wack. IMO, SII length arms are just a PITA and compound clearance issues... I see no need to run such a long arm.

jdjanda
11-13-2003, 07:40 AM
In a nut shell dump the long arse Scout II arm in favor of a shorter arm. There are two problems with the stock Waggy arm. 1. The frame clearance is very tight, and you will have to shave the top of the TRE bolt.

2. The arm is not reamed for Drag Link Ends, only Tie Rod Ends. TRE's do not allow enough deflection angle and you will bind a TRE and bend the pitman arm (ask Josh C) or tear up the box.

The way around the two problems is to purchase a Parts Mike arm with extra drop (don't know if it's reamed for a DRE), or section the frame above the arm, and ream the hole deeper for a DRE.

Mechanos
11-13-2003, 07:50 AM
Joe, I'm using the Waggy arm. I did have to ream the hole to accept the 1 ton DRE's instead of whatever wimpy shit it used stock. All I had to do was trim the top of the DRE's stud flush with top of the castle nut and it clears the frame just fine.

http://www.mo-4xtoys.com/torc/TR-DL/P0001829.jpg

RustoleumWhite
11-13-2003, 08:30 AM
Originally posted by TORC
[B]Joe, I'm using the Waggy arm. I did have to ream the hole to accept the 1 ton DRE's instead of whatever wimpy shit it used stock. All I had to do was trim the top of the DRE's stud flush with top of the castle nut and it clears the frame just fine.


I just bent mine down :D :D


just a little, no harm done.



DJForrestA,

good boy, you searched and actually FOUND most of your answers... but surprised you didn't find the steering... its only been gone over MANY times...

I'll 2nd what TORC said, you will need to match your pitman to your high-steer arms. Long = Long, short = short. Your dropped pitman arm may be just the ticket for the short HS arms.


Try this: oder and instaul your High-steer arms, then play with your available parts and see what works and looks safe. If things wont work, then look at alternatives.

Just about any arm you use will need to be reamed for the "large" GM DL ends... the good ones.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~marka/PhotoAlbums/Steering/scout_newDL2.sized.jpg

DJForrestA
11-13-2003, 05:13 PM
Good advice Rusto. Since the pitman is the easiest to change out I'll keep my drop on and try it. If it sucks I'll try my stock arm and if it sucks I'll go wagoneer shopping. Anyone know of a pitman arm that will fit the scout box and use the chevy HD draglink end. Sucks having access to a CnC mill and not having the tooling to use it for anything automotive. You guys rule. Ya'll probably hate the music I DJ, can't dance, like farm animals, and think the French are an enlightened race but other than that your cool.
Peace out

Oh I've been reading about brakes with my 14 bolt swap. Is my line gonna fit the 14 bolt connection? Are my emergency brakes gonna hook up to the 14 bolt drums and still work with a springover and 4 inch lift? Is five ho ho's enough or is six too many?

RustoleumWhite
11-14-2003, 08:30 AM
if you wanted to mail your pitman arm[s] to me, I'd ream them for you... and of course charge you to mail them back :D

or you could search and buy your own reamer...



if you got axsess to a CnC, then BUY YOUR OWN TOOLING and make your own sh*t... I would in a heat beat....

used to do that at the old place I worked... just manual machines... but it was nice..... now I need to save $$$ to get my own tools :( :(