Hello, this is my first post.
I have asked this question at several other forums with no avail.
I have been told to come here for help so hopefully i can get an answer.
Here goes:

I have a rear 8.8 axle which we all know is pretty weak.
I would like to swap the axle out to something a little more beefier like a 9", however I have the speedo sensor, vss, and garbage in my rear axle.
So most boards have told me my only option is to swap it to a 10.25 FF because it has the same rear computer crap as the 8.8.
Well, I do not want to have to buy rims and tires and such all over again, and have to swap my 5 lug fronts on my straight D44HD to 8 lug.
It is just to spendy to do a 10.25 swap because of all the other costs involved.

I would really like a 9" then i can reinforce the housing, and get nicer shafts. I understand it will not be as strong as a 10.25 but I really just need something as strong as my front axle, and that will support 37" mud tires.

I have also heard that you can find an adapter to put the vss and other stuff in the transfer case and that will eliminate the stuff in the rear axle all together, but when I search everywhere I cant find anything to support this.

If you can give me data that i can use to swap a 9" or comparable 5 lug axle in the rear of my Ford and still be able to have the auto tranni shift correctly, and the speedo work i will be forever in your debt.
Thank you in advance.

I would stick with the 8.8, theres not much difference strength wise between it and a 9". Theres a lot more aftermarket for the 9" but you can buy hardened shafts, etc. for the 8.8 as well. The main thing about the 9" is it has a dropout 3rd member, makes it easier for swapping gears since you can set the whole thing right in front of you. Thats the main reason it is such a popular race car rear. But honestly if you bust a shaft on a 9" it can be a bitch to get it out. The VSS is what you really need to worry about, the speed sensor is just for the abs which is useless anyway. The 8.8 is definitely stronger than your straight d44 front.

Ford carnage nailed it. stock for stock, there is really no strength difference between the 8.8 and the 9. The shafts are the same size. On my 89' I only had the abs sensor on the rearend, which never works on trucks up here anyways, so I didn't mind loosing it when I went to a 9"

Other than the VSS B.S. a 9" from a 70's F-150 is a bolt in swap.
I paid $100 for the 9" $28 for a mini spool, and $15 for the cross pin, and bolted it in on one afternoon.

Originally posted by FordCarnage
The VSS is what you really need to worry about, the speed sensor is just for the abs which is useless anyway.

The VSS and ABS speed sensor are the same unit starting in 92. The rear end sends the signal to the ABS computer and the PSOM (Speedo) and from there on to the ECM to control the transmission shifts.

But yeah, what everybody else said. There are two significant weak points on the 8.8 that you might want to address -- spinning the tubes in the housing, and collapsing the tubes under the spring perches. Both can be fixed with a little welding, but neither fix is absolutely necessary.... just a good preventative.

So would a good truss be a good fix, or just a band aid?

I thought about having a truss welded to the axle tube but was afraid warping the tube since it is thin.
Maybe something on both top and bottom????
I wouldnt mind losing a little ground clearance doing this.

Also I dont know what to do around the spring mounts.
I would like a truss going from end to end if I was going to do one.
Since I am a noob on this forum does anyone know if anyone here built a truss for their 8.8?

(Besides the FF conversion that some Jeep guy did).

I personally know someone that used to be in the MN Redliners club, he has a 1975 F-250 camper special converted to 4x4.
He has the HP 44 with eight lug outers from a Chevy, and 10.25 rearend.

also the weak link internaly is the case/cross pin. Putting a spool or detroit in it will make a huge difference in strength.

Originally posted by MikeW
I personally know someone that used to be in the MN Redliners club, he has a 1975 F-250 camper special converted to 4x4.
He has the HP 44 with eight lug outers from a Chevy, and 10.25 rearend.

That's really fawking useful information. Next time somebody asks about converting a 75 F250 to 4x4, remember that little tidbit and post it up. :rolleyes:

Trussing the top of the housing isn't a bad idea, either. All you really need is a piece of 2" tube bent across the top of the pumpkin and welded to the housing on both ends. You can probably get it as far out as the spring perches with no problem.

I've seen dez guys truss 8.8s from end to end, but they were running link rears... no worries about being able to attach leaves to it.

Any welder should be able to truss it... it's just a question of keeping the heat down and being careful. A piece of 1/8" or thicker plate bent to shape under the spring perches would strengthen up that weak point and could be done at the same time. Also consider rotating your perches then to eliminate the factory pinion shims.

Beyond that, just weld the axle tubes to the pig (there's a thread in Gen4x4 about welding mild to cast right now, basically pre and post-heat to prevent cracking), and put a Detroit, spool, ARB, whatever in it. And if you're tearing into it to replace gears, get rid of the crush washer and use a solid spacer.

At a certain point, you're just polishing a turd... but if it's just a part-time wheeler on a budget, an 8.8 should hold up just fine.

I can't believe I haven't seen this yet... What size tires?? That will dictate what axles you should be lookin for..

And yea.. I agree.. The 8.8 is plenty axle.. Up to around 36-37's...

What for trans are you running? Engine?
8.8 is more than sufficent for most any auto trans as long as you don't run a shift kit and bark those big ole tires on every shift.

on a fullsize i definatly recomend you truss it.

but for sure get a load bolt cover at the minimum if you will be running 36 or bigger tires and plan on romping on it pretty hard. and if this will be the case for use then the arb or anything with spiders should be ruled out. i have smoked a few 8.8's now and the spiders usually cause the carrier to bust through the caps when they let loose under med to heavy throttle.:rolleyes:


damn those bastard spiders!:mad: this wont be the case with a detroit, or a spool. or welded..

FWIW, The weak areas that others have addressed in reference to the 8.8, IMO are consistent with failures I've experienced with it. The suggestions about a locker which changes out the carrier/spiders seem like a good improvement to it as well as the latest suggestion about a diff cover which has bearing preloads/supports.
I've got a 8.8 which has both of these and the only "failure" I've experienced now has been wearing out the splines on the shafts themselves, which I replaced.
Presently, I'm getting rid of it in favor of a 10.25, so if a 8.8 with 4.56's, a detroit, and LPW diff cover interests you, drop me a line. If not, I'd suggest a detroit or ARB and a supporting diff cover for the 8.8 you have, and gusseting if it's something that can be done by yourself or somebody else for little money.
Otherwise, like somebody already said, it'd be like polishing a turd to put more effort into a 8.8 that will be under a big bronco and running 37" tires.
HTH

-m

How about one of those funny Dana 60 semi-floats from a late 60's F100 (5-lug)? I bet if you stare at an E250/E350 Dana 60 w/VSS long enough you'd have some ideas on how to make that shite work on the older D60 housing.

My 2 cents.

example of weak tubes (http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=89497&toggle=fullsize&filename=DSC00525.JPG)

you can get a 9in ring gear machined to accept the tone ring for the vss...there was a guy on here that did it...

Brian...

As far as a locker in the rear, Would a Detroit True-Trac be sufficient? I know its not a locker, but it would be enough for my needs.
Would that replace the spider gears, and add any "integrity" to the whole mix?

And as far as a diff cover with load/bearing supports do these two links have those mentioned?
Which would be the better preferrence?

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS%2D8510100&view=2047

or

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SME%2D8510100&view=2047

The only difference I see is one says that it has support studs, the other doesnt, and one is summit, the other trick flow.

Thank you.

Oh and I plan on having superior make me some stronger axle shafts.

I also found this one from Granatelli motor sports.

http://www.granatellimotorsports.com/ford88girdlesystems.htm

Looks to be the nicer of the three?
http://www.granatellimotorsports.com/images/artlr/GMGS7998small.jpg

I have spun/bent a tube in one 8.8 and seen 2 other failures, shafts and cross pin explosion all in Broncos close to stock. I was on 33's so I dont think there is any way an 8.8 will work w/ 37-38's. Maybe in a Zuk but no way in a full size Bronc. Get a 10.25 or 14 bolt, trade your wheels for 8 lug and convert you 5x5.5 44 to 8 lug.

You'd have to contact them but this product may get the VSS signal you need or they may know of someone who sells another product that would.

http://www.ronmorrisperformance.com/Merchant4/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rmp&Product_Code=2106&Category_Code=Sensors


FYI, my 8.8 has lived with 37" MTR's (easy right foot). Although I would go no larger unless the rear was swapped with any of the 1-tons previously mentioned. I have it setup more for snow and trails than wheeling hard terrain. I have a True-trac and have not had problems to date.

OK, I will try and call them today and see what they say.
The only problems I have seen on other peoples 8.8 is the housing give way (Can be fixed by trussing it), and the spider gears grenade (Can be fixed with TruTrac, or full locker, or lunchbox locker), and the splines slipping (This one is not to common, but can be fixed by buying machined shafts).
I have also seen the tubes get bent a little by u-bolts but that to can be fixed by welding some angle iron in 6 inch strips long way on the tube and then have the u bolts bent around them. The angle iron will prevent the u-bolts from caving in the tube.

I know most of you will think this is a lot of work for a crap axle, but when your option are highly limited like mine, you try to think of what you can do to better what you already have.

The stuff I mentioned is a lot cheaper than buying a 14 bolt or 10.25, and the vss parts wiring, custom work, the new 8 lug rims, and the 8 lug conversion for the front, new brakes, rotors, etc.

Angle iron is cheap and works, a truss is cheap and easy to build, and a true trac or lunch box locker are both cheap to replace the spider gears, the only expensive part would be the custom shafts which are about $300.00 from Superior.
If you do the math it is STILL cheaper than other options.

Makes me wish i had an 89 Bronco..

Where are you located?
If you're close to Florida, and were interested in my 8.8 (or the detroit, cover, and/or gears) maybe we could work out a deal or something?
Just an offer, not trying to 'jack your thread.

Its all good, i appreciate the offer.
I am actually located in Wyoming, so that would be a helluva drive :-)

jafo, would you be interested in shipping the locker? if so what do you what for it?