To continue the discussion about fans and their ability and or durability, I have ripped some video of a deep hole.

This footage is from Memorial Day weekend of this year.
Now this is the deepest, dirtiest, water that I have ever, and will ever "plan" on going through. In the deepest section of the drop off the water came up to the top of my bucket seat boxes. Just by luck if I had not twisted my air cleaner horn back torwards the firewall a week prior....my carb would have been gargling forest listerine! If I recall correctly the water dirt line came up to the top of the intake as well. This is of course on 33's...36's and I guess I could go in deeper :grinpimp:

video....Friends Bronco w/FlexCRAP fan listen to the carnage (http://home.comcast.net/~youngfamily2468/flexlitefan.wmv)

video....results of the carnage (http://home.comcast.net/~youngfamily2468/flexlitefan2.wmv)

video....jeep too fast into hole (http://home.comcast.net/~youngfamily2468/jeffjeepflood.wmv)

video....Harvester of Sorrow stock direct drive fan (http://home.comcast.net/~youngfamily2468/stockfan.wmv)

When I first got my rig back in 92' I wanted to get rid of the stock fan and put a push pull set up on it. I wanted to do that for a couple of years. But the funny thing is that I have never....ever....had a problem with engine spray down or vane cavitation. This is also with a fan that was out of balance and blade alignment from being impacted by an obsticle (since replaced).

NOW if there was nooooo physical way a stock fan would fit in there...then of course electric pusher or puller.

Though due to this last trip, I think that electric fans have been forever erased from my :grinpimp: bling:grinpimp: list of thingies to do.

I never did understand why people make such a big deal out of aftermaket fans machanical or eletcric :confused:

its one step back


BTW the jeep link is the bronco link :flipoff2:

My rig......well when it is running is a DD. Without the top and doors off it is much quieter without the mechanical fan. I also felt the engine was more responsive and peppier without the mechanical.

Nice Vids HOS

Well since that's my Bronco I'll have to say that the flex fan sucked!! I actually bent in a hole earlier in the day, but still ended up looking the same. Since replaced with a heavy duty stock type fan.

Well, you know my opinion. As long as that electric fan motor will run (and they rarely fail) you can get it running, even if it means hard-wiring it to the battery if your relay fails or whatever, and no matter how likely it is to happen, you know you won't cut a hole in your radiator. And, if you care about such things, you have the slight HP+mileage increase on lots of vehicles (maybe not IHs though).

Just my $.02.

Darel

Harvester of Sorrow:
What exhaust are you running? That sure is a sweet sounding Scout!
Darel

Originally posted by Darel
Harvester of Sorrow:
What exhaust are you running? That sure is a sweet sounding Scout!
Darel

I am running a Flowmaster 70 series BigBlock 2 to 1. Dual 2-1/4? inlets and a single 3" outlet. I am very happy with it...the thing does sound cool.

It also improved the "balance" of the motor compared to the previous non-crossover tubed dual glass packs that exited right by the door:D

maybe that is why I wear hearing aids?:( Should have done something like the rear outlet exhaust long ago...live and learn pass it on too kids I guess.

http://home.comcast.net/~youngfamily2468/flow1.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~youngfamily2468/flowin2.jpg

Originally posted by Harvester of Sorrow
http://home.comcast.net/~youngfamily2468/flowin2.jpg
Is that a Mickey Thompson drag slick? :flipoff2:

Originally posted by TORC

Is that a Mickey Thompson drag slick? :flipoff2:

Long story on that tire TORC:rolleyes:

That used to be on the front drivers side and was result from a bent axle housing on the long tube side...So bent that I could not pass the joint-ears through the knuckle. I jumped it reeeeaaallly high in the air and came down on that side like in 93. I would eat wheel bearings like candy

New front end in it now...and going to get 36's in spring. I ran those 33's during my DEATH WOBBLE campaign...

Sittin on dubs now...thanks RUSTY:D

Just bustin' your chops a little......

HS whats your power plant? 345?

Chefie....

It is a 304 out of a 72' Scout II. I had never changed the plugs since I put that thing in my 76' back in late 92'. The motor just ran so nice.

It has a Holley 2300 500cfm with the 50cc "big shot" accelerator pump.

Only thing that motor needs (and I want) is fuel injection.

I want to put on the GM 4.3L type...


Anybody got any?

Originally posted by Harvester of Sorrow


I want to put on the GM 4.3L type...




why not a 305?

Why you got some 305 2bbl injection stuff?

because the 4.3 stuff will only run 3/4 of your cylinders. :flipoff2:

He He He He He....goood one Benny Boy:flipoff2:

You know of anybody in Yakima that has a late 80's/ early 90's Chevy/GMC van or mini-van laying around?

I know Yakima has lots of them:rolleyes:....COOOOME ON BEN.

Only with EFI would I even think to be able to keep up with you EXTREME fellows:flipoff2:

nope I bought my EFI parts off ebay.

Seriously, you want to get the parts off a v8. The 4.3 injectors are going to be too small for the 304.

Have you been to the IH Fuel Injection (http://www.justinternationals.org/Binder-Bench/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=21) forum?

Originally posted by Ben W
nope I bought my EFI parts off ebay.

Seriously, you want to get the parts off a v8 though. The 4.3 injectors are going to be too small for the 304.

Have you been to the IH Fuel Injection (http://www.justinternationals.org/Binder-Bench/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=21) forum?

I have been lurking there...hmmm imagine that lurking before leaping into the frey....

YOU HEAR THAT YOU FUCKING NEWBIES....HUH?

sorry about that, anyway, my "plan" was to get the 4.3L shit and put on the 53ish? g/hr injectors off of the truck. I have heard that the 4.3L is mapped differently.:confused:

Then again I have also read during my lurkings that the 350 crap "can" also be a basically bolt and bash operation.




What do you have and what are your feelings about it?

I bought a complete setup off a 5.7 and I still need a 454 TBI to run my 472.

I would stick with the 5.0/5.7 parts, that way you don't need to swap around injectors, ecm, etc. I don't see a reason to start with 4.3 stuff, its not any cheaper. :confused:

Originally posted by Harvester of Sorrow
Why you got some 305 2bbl injection stuff?

no I just figured the 305 would be a closer match to the 304 then a 6 banger, eaven the computer maping is probibly prety close to the needs of a 304

HoS,
One last question - are you running headers?

Originally posted by Darel
HoS,
One last question - are you running headers?

Nope....

Stinky old stock manifolds....headers are too much cash cash moneyfor me.





exhaust sounds good doesnt it....:D

I got most of my stuff from 4.3L Chevy Astros because they are very plentiful in my local yard. I chose to use the popular 1227747 ECM which is found on '88 to '91 or '92 Chevy trucks and Astros/Safaris. There are two removable chips inside the ECM, one is the EPROM which carries the fuel and spark maps and the other one is the Cal-pak (or NETRES) that contains the "limp home mode" info. The Cal-pak for the V6 is different than the V8, but I was able to source a new V8 Cal-pak from the dealer for about $14. I wasn't worried about the V6 eprom since I new I'd have to reprogram it anyway. I started by reprogramming it to a stock Chevy 5.7L calibration which run the engine, but not to it's optimum. I cross-referenced parts and found out that the knock sensor, ESC (knock sensor control module), Coolant temp sensor,MAP sensor, throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, EGR solenoid, EST(ignition module) and O2 sensor were all the same for the V6 and the V8, so I was able to harvest all that equipment from the Astro. The throttle body is the same also except for the injector size. I replaced the 4.3L injectors with 5.7L 55 lb/hr injectors. I even took the Astro's ECM harness and shortened or lengthend the vairious wires as necessary. I did end up buying a new O2 sensor since it was cheap. You do have to modify the stock IH distributor to trigger the EST, but that's pretty easily done. I also opted to use the oil pressure switch that kills the fuel pump when oil pressure is lost. Basically, I took everything off '88 and '89 Astros and just swapped the injectors for 5.7L injectors.

The reprogramming, or "tuning" requires a piece of hardware you hook up to your PC to burn new chips an a device that erases the chips. It is essentially just electronic tuning.... instead of turning screws and such on the carb, you tweak values in a look-up table. Instead of turning the dist. to change timing, you tweak values in tables. You leave all the physical hardware alone and tweak things electronically. You make some changes, burn a chip, try it out, make more changes, etc. etc. You hook up a laptop to the diagnostic port and log data as you drive around and then use that data to decide where to make the next round of adjustments.

http://www.mo-4xtoys.com/torc/Engine/P0001855sm.jpg

Faaaawk Torc sounds like you have been doing your homework. How's the tuning coming?


All I did was fab up my frame brace for the steering box. I had 2 cracks in the frame when I pulled off the box

Originally posted by ChiScouter
Faaaawk Torc sounds like you have been doing your homework. How's the tuning coming?
...
Kinda slow right now.... I haven't been able to drive it much since I have it in the garage trying to finish up the rest of it. I'll have it out on the road soon and can get down to the nitty gritty. I only burned a couple chips and grew tired of the UV eraser process. Did a little more homework and found some flash chips to use instead. The new flash chips are 8 times bigger (memory wise) so I fabbed up an adapter to fit the bigger the chip in the ECM. While I was at it, I made the adapter capable of switching between 8 different calibrations loaded on the chip. The flash chip is soooooo much nicer to work with... it'll electronically erase in a second or two where the UV erasable eproms take about 4 minutes or so to erase.

http://www.mo-4xtoys.com/torc/EFI/adapter/P0001987a.jpg
http://www.mo-4xtoys.com/torc/EFI/adapter/P0002000.JPG

what did you do to printed circut board?

I found if you make up your desing on computer using paint, then you print it out a pice of paper using a LAZER printer then you get your pice of paper with your desing and get it wet and place it on the PCB toner down (so its on the coper) now get some HD paper towel and get it wet genersly and place it on the paper. Then get a hot iron and place it on the wet paper towel and hold with presure for 60 seconds and then let it sit on it for another 60. Let it cool and soack it in water then carflully pull off the paper. On the PCB you will find that the toner is now stuck to the copper. Make any tuch-ups if nessary and then dip yur PCB in to that nasty solution and you know the rest

oh and you will need to scuf off the toner with steel wole when the acid is done its thing

make sence?

an example I did a few years back not very compact :rolleyes:



http://pics.montypics.com/vhf/2003-11-19/1069227657_pcb.jpg

Originally posted by Chief yelling alot
what did you do to printed circut board?

Chiefy, I have a copius amount (that means "a lot") of toner transfer paper. It's made just for what you describe... it has a special coating on the paper that doesn't let the toner bond to the paper. You then use a hot iron to transfer the toner to the PCB. Then soak it in water and the paper falls off leaving your traces stuck to the PCB. The key word in all of this is TONER. I did that board over the weekend and all I have at home is an ink jet. I didn't want to wait till Monday to print it off on a laSer printer, so I just laid out the pin spacing on the PCB and used a Sharpie to hand draw the traces. A couple of the traces looked marginally thin so I tinned all of the traces just to garauntee circuit integrity. That board was just a 30 minute, I'm bored, weekend project.

Oh, forgot to add... acetone on a rag will wipe the toner right off the traces without have to scuff with steel wool and risk damaging the traces.