A friend of mine had the right rear wheel fall off her 60 the other day. All of the wheel studs were sheared off. Four looked as though they had been about half broken for awhile, the remaining two were actually streched, then broken. She had slid off the road earlier in the day {heavy snow lately}. Then about 30 miles later, thunk, and the rear wheel fell off. This brings me to the mystery part.....? I went to order some new studs from SOR along with the other various brake parts that were damaged. Can anyone tell me why 60 series wheel studs are $5 apiece while 40 series are $2? I took the four spares I keep on my FJ40's spare tire carrier and installed them they worked good enough to get the 60 home, but I got those at NAPA for like $.60. The splined shoulder is the same but the threaded part is about a 1/4" shorter. Anyone see a problem with these or know why SOR would specify a differant stud for the 60 than the 40?

Why don't you just buy them form the dealer?

Jeff

Is she running aluminum rims?? I've seen it happen several times with alloy rims, happened to me once, about 50 kms out of San Salvador de Paul (Amazonas, Venezuela) in the middle of nowhere. Luckily I found some at a small general store...

Happened to me just BEFORE I got on the Rubicon. Lost a wheel on Loon Lake Dam. How embarrasing, particularly when Mark Watley (Toyota Trails Tech Editor) and Morgan came up and said "Whacha doin'?"

Seems this a lot more common occurance than I thought. My answer? If you broke one, you'll break another. Replace 'em all.

mine did sorta the same thing
but i think it was due to the 1 3/4 back space wheels
i have started to fix the prob with 9/16 studs
the toy studs always seam to strip out

Quite common problem, also happens with FJ 45's.... mine you the last lot I got from the auto parts store were $20.00 AUS ea

I pulled a good stud out of the other axle and sent it into NAPA for a match-up. Much to my surprise I got a perfect match @ $2.10 each. I was going to replace all of them but as with most things they only had 10 studs at this time. I will post the PN# if anyone is interested?

Toyota tends to make their studs softer to handle more cycles of use - each of which stretches and relaxes a stud. If they're harder you get more durable threads, but the cycles will crack the more brittle metal sooner in its life.

For some reason, this strategy never seems to work out in real life. I replaced all my FZJ80 studs a year ago since I had stuff apart, and a couple were slightly cross threaded from a tire store incident we won't talk about. The best advice I can give is to use anti-sieze and a torque wrench each and every time they're used.

Also, most Toyota rims are what's called hub-centric. This means the center hole is precision fit with the axle and some of the weight of the truck is born by contact with the axle/wheel center hole instead of solely by the studs themselves. If you put aftermarket wheels on they are rarely hubcentric and you end up stressing the studs more than they were designed for.