I have the opportunity to get a LP Dana 60 out of a Dodge and am looking at putting it under my TJ. I know I can set up the angles and all the suspensions properly, but what is involved with steering? What's the easiest way to get it up and working good?
Thanks!

You do realize that it's a pass. drop fullwidth 60 right?

I drive a CJ, so I could be smoking crack here, but I thought CJ's and TJ's had the diff on the right side, while YJ's had it on the WRONG side.... Sorry, had to poke that in there!

I was thinking only YJ's were driver side drop, are there TJ's like this now too???

Originally posted by vitaminR
I drive a CJ, so I could be smoking crack here, but I thought CJ's and TJ's had the diff on the right side, while YJ's had it on the WRONG side.... Sorry, had to poke that in there!

I was thinking only YJ's were driver side drop, are there TJ's like this now too???

There is no right or wrong side...

YJ and TJ = Driver side drop

Cj is passenger

JS- Newer dodge 60s are driver side drop.

It's a 95, driver side drop.

No one has ever put a 60 in a TJ. It can't be done...

:rolleyes:

scott

So how did they set up the steering smart ass? Searching only turns up my two posts that no one has answered, and info that has nothing to do with steering.
Maybe you should be less of a dick and more of a help. :rolleyes:

This topic has been covered aud infinitum, aud nauseum. A quick search for "Dana 60 and TJ" yeilded 5 pages worth of threads where you can find info on it. Click here for the search function impared. (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/search.php?s=&action=showresults&searchid=1042972&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending)

Originally posted by Jason R
JS- Newer dodge 60s are driver side drop.

This I mistakenly overlooked. Guess I shouldn't have assumed it was an early model 60.

Lubes, steering is up to you holms, plenty of options out there depending on what you want. Just research steering options for a front 60.

Stay away from late model Dodge 60s. They use an axle disconnect and are not as strong as the ealy model units.

I would look for high pinion Ford front 60.

Is there a way to remove or bypass the axle disconnect?

And which parts specifically are not as strong?

It's out of a '95 Dodge duallie diesel, byt the way.

You can retube that side. Here' s a link (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=144901) to a thread with some pics.

what exactly is the vacuum disconnect and how much would it cost to make it work with the TJ?

Typically, it isnt the best idea to cross-post (posting the same question in multiple sections of the board).

As for the axle, I would also look for a Ford HP D60. For TJ's, I think the 78/79 is the best year because the pumpkin is nearer the center of the axle, giving more room to fab up spring mounts.

yeah, I posted in Newbie first and got no responses so I posted here. Then started getting advice in both. THanks for everything, looks best to turn down the offer. I was wanting to shy away from the HP due to the limit on gear ratios. Thanks for bringin up the disconnect thing before I bought it!

Limit of gear ratios?? What does HP got to do with that?:confused:

Originally posted by LUVMYTJ
Limit of gear ratios?? What does HP got to do with that?:confused:

.....has alot to do with it....HP Fords you can get gear ratios to 5.38, I think. There's not enough demand for gears lower than that, so that is all that is available.
.......by the way, if you're interested, I have 2 dozen
D60's, all HP Fords. All are 3.73 geared, except one that is 4.30.
You can PM me interested.

I have a 60 out of a 89' F350 in my TJ. I can round up some pics if you want. Let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks Trango for the PM!

Thanks for the rest of you for pointing out something major I didn't know about (the disconnect and weakness of the axle).

Yes, a HP 60 can only be geared to 5.38, while a standard 60 and 70 can be geared as low as 7.17. I hear this means the R&P are weak, but what are the odds of breaking those if I have a motor small enough to need gears that deep.

So I guess I'll look for a HP 60 and just go with as low of gears as possible, match the rear, and runa slightly smaller tire.
Someone mentioned that 78-79 were best as far as getting spring plates on there, but besides that...
What are the best years for the Ford 60s and why?

Thanks again for all the help!

Also, to go with a HP 60 and the lowest gears (5.38), I'd want a beefy axle in rear, but 70s don't have 5.38 ratios, and Corp. 14 bolts only go as low as 5.13, which the HP 60 doesn't come in, so I could only go as low as 4.88 with the HP60/14 bolt combo. Damn I hate this shit, how hard is it to find a Dana 80 and make that work under a Jeep, matching the width of a fulwidth Ford 60 front?

Other than the 80, looks like my only options for the 5.38s would be a standard or HP 60 for rear, or build a 9" as strong as I can. They can gear to 5.38 right?

Just exactly how low of a gear are you after and what size tires are you planning to run? You won't be satisfied with a gear in the 5s?

42s-44s powered by the 4.0L and an auto. I want it to be able to drive on the streets, at least 65. I have a 4:1 Tcase so crawling will be OK, but I want it to be able to make it around town and to close trails.
I was originally planning to run Rocks, but decided having to fit the massive diff under my frame and oil pan was about my capabiliy.

Originally posted by Lubes
42s-44s powered by the 4.0L and an auto. I want it to be able to drive on the streets, at least 65. I have a 4:1 Tcase so crawling will be OK, but I want it to be able to make it around town and to close trails.
I was originally planning to run Rocks, but decided having to fit the massive diff under my frame and oil pan was about my capabiliy.

If you've already got 4:1 case gears, then I doubt you'll need that deep of a ring gear, maybe something like 5.13s would suit you better? I really can't comment on that, but it seems AWFUL low combined with a 4:1. I hope you plan to extend your wheel base some.:eek: And I doubt your 231 will like those 42s or 44s for very long. Just my thoughts...

The D60 youre talkin bout is a passanger side drop I believe. You would have to have the axles retubed OR you could run a tcase that has a passenger side drop as well - though you might have some exhaust stuff that you'll need to figure out. However if it IS a driver side drop then you'll have no problems installing it.

Wow 42-44"s thats crazy! I hope you're extendign the wheelbase on your rig. Youre gonna be goin endo just accelerating onto the highway.

Oh and if you decide to stick and make it a driver side drop make sure that your tcase is not a 231 with a 4:1 kit installed. Shoot 231's with 4:1 already breay easily enough with just 33"s let alone 44"s

When you bolt it up and if its out of a newer dodge with the driver side drop you can ditch the CAD by installing a full length axle shaft and installing a plate on the opening for the CAD - or you can install one of those 4x4posi lok thingies. Eitherway dont touch the vacuum actuated CAD with a 10foot pole.

JeepCrawler98, you didn't read this whole thread did ya?;)

Crawler, I decided to ditch the Dodge 60 in favor of a Ford HP 60 and am now wondering what's the best axle to mix it in with for the rear. Basically for a 5 something ratio my option is either another 60 or an 80. 60 seems kinda weak for 42's and ^, and and 80 seems kinda hard and $$$ to find. Oh well, that would be cool being able to run duallies if I ever wanted.
I do plan to stretch the wheelbase, I've been looking for an excuse to cut my rears straight back and definently need a longer WB.
My 4:1 231 has held up fine with my pedal to the mtal driving, 35s, and very large rocks, but I would replace it with an Atlas 2 4.3:1 or Atlas 5.
I know my crawl ratio is pretty good now, but I want it a little lower, and with much bigger tires, but the biggest part of the deep R&P is to be able to street this monster.
I don't believe in having something as sick as I want my Jeep, and not showing it off to the world now and then.

*JS-Economos- as I mentioned, using the HP 60 front limits me to a 5.38, or only a 4.88. Seeing as I have 4.56s and 35s now, I doubt 4.88 and 42s will be enough so I have to step it up to a 5.38. If I have to run a 44 or even 45"IROK to even it out, the so be it. The bigger the better, as long as the axles will hold it and gears will even it out.
Thanks for all the help!

I am not sure where in the fawk youre gettin youre damn info on gears but you may want to look at other sources.. I just through puttin a HP 60 in the front of my damn TJ WITH 5:13 GEARS..


YOU MAKE ME FAWKIN TIRED!:rolleyes:

Got my info from Randy's Ring and Pinion... www.ring-pinion.com I'f you're right, it maybe very well help ease my pain in life. Thanks, and I apologize for complicating yours. :D

I'm putting a HP D60 and 14b with 5.13s in my TJ. I'm chopping the frame at the hump and straightening it out to run right under the tub. The plan is to run 38.5s or 39.5s.

There is plenty of info on here to do the swap. Search...

Originally posted by LUVMYTJ
I am not sure where in the fawk youre gettin youre damn info on gears but you may want to look at other sources.. I just through puttin a HP 60 in the front of my damn TJ WITH 5:13 GEARS..


I concurr. Lubes, just cause Randy doesn't have the gearset listed on his site doesn't mean they're not made. You should definitely check more than one gear source when you get ready to buy.

HP60 Gears (http://www.reiderracing.com/dana60r.htm)
D60 "Pro Gears" (http://www.reiderracing.com/dana60pg.htm)
Standard cut D60 Gears (http://www.reiderracing.com/dana60.htm)

YOU MAKE ME FAWKIN TIRED!:rolleyes:

:laughing: :flipoff2:

it's interesting that he's posting about 5 something gears, and I know Ken blume was running 7.17s in his CJ...

jesus.

I mentioned 7.17s earlier.

My bad about the gears, seemed like he had every gearset available so I just assumed. You'd think I'd have learned my lesson about assuming things in the fourwheeling world by now.

Thanks again everyone!

yea they make 5.13s in a hp 60, ur also forgettin about the ford 10.25 they make a 5.38 for that too. if i wanted what u were doin, since they make the 5.38s for a standard 60, id run a back 60, converted to the 35 spline axles. that should hold up to your abuse. i know a normal back 60 under a jeep with a built chevy v8 465 and 205 that has no problems, and thats with 4.56 and 44 boggers.

Originally posted by Po' riggity
No one has ever put a 60 in a TJ. It can't be done...

:rolleyes:

scott


Oh really, it can't be done?



Well I have front HP 60 out of a 79 F350 in the front, and a 60 in the back.

He was being sarcastic.
And he's just jealous he's only runnin a Ford 8.8! :flipoff2:

Just thought I'll add, rear 60 will cost you around $300. Also, a f HP 60 will cost you anywhere between $1100 to $1500 stock.

If you find front 60 cheaper, get alot of beer and pizza, and have a party. Then tell us about it.

Originally posted by JeepinAmerica.com



Oh really, it can't be done?



Well I have front HP 60 out of a 79 F350 in the front, and a 60 in the back.





Guess we'll have to start putting warnings on posts for the Huntsville crowd...


"Caution, contains sarcasm"








:flipoff2:

Alright cool, I'll def have a party if I can find one cheaper!

About steering.

I had over-under steering. Draglink goes from pitman arm to plate mounted to top of steering knuckle. Tierod went from steering knuckle to steering knuckle. You can go to AutoZone and get 1 ton johnyjoints for around $30 each. Lifetime warrenty. Work much better than heim joints. Also, I put the tierod ontop of the steering knucle, which gave me about three more inches of "high steer".

It worked ok, but huge dead spot and wheels didnt turn far at all. For on the trails it was not acceptable. I went to full hydrolic steering and it is 100 times better offroad. I was able to turn the max each direction. However, when on-road it acts like you are driving drunk, because steering is not self- centering like with a steering box.

You will have to go to full hydro or hydro assist with all that meat. On this site, they have a write up on how to tap in your steering box for a inexpinsive hydro-assist setup.

Hopefully that helped

Originally posted by Lubes
42s-44s powered by the 4.0L and an auto. I want it to be able to drive on the streets, at least 65.


um, have you done the RPM math on this yet? You may want to before you decide on 5.5 gears or something. Especially with an auto. (don't need as much gearing offroad.)

5.13 and the 42's have a rpm at 65 of 1900. I'm not sure you can go 65 with that 4L and that much weight. :rolleyes:

very much, thanks a lot!

That's why I was wanting a 5.83 or so... maybe 5.38 at the highest. That was why I wanted to stray away from the limitations of the HP 60 front.