i know that a prorock 60 measures about 5.3" from the middle of the tube to the lowest point on the pig,
can you guys that have shaved your D60 tell me what you measeure.... pics would be great too!

thanks, just wanted to know how close i could get to the prorock.
:beer:

I took a bit more than 1" off of mine and in pic#2 where the red triangles are in this pic I cut some 3/16" plate to that shape and welded it there. The bottom is totally smooth now to where it won't catch on the lip.

- jack

http://users.rcn.com/beezil/public/60shaved2.JPG

sorry, no dimensions for you, put heres a pic of the housing, maybe you can tell. around 7/8 MORE clearance than my dana 44 IIRC.....

you probably want to know how much of the ring gear to grind?

my buddy did this one for me, he owns a REAL machining grinding business......Fourward Momentum....

check it.

pic #2

Beezil, ya the ring gear info would be great too, this obviously need to be machined so to keep it balanced right....

morpheus, any pics once it was totally complete?

Somebody hook me up with an e-mail. I shaved mine like a prorock and have pics but need someone to post them.

Originally posted by SuperRanger
Somebody hook me up with an e-mail. I shaved mine like a prorock and have pics but need someone to post them.

Ary01xj@vt.edu

SuperRanger did you manage to send those?

Originally posted by Sharp
SuperRanger did you manage to send those?

Haven't received anything yet....

Sent the pictures, thanks Arya.

I used 1/2" plate bent in a press. I think the clearance is the same as a prorock except on the extreme left side of the ring gear. I did not shave down the ring gear and left ample clearance (1/8" +).

I welded it with standard mig wire and an argon gas mix. We heated it to about 250 degrees with two garage heaters and post heated the weld with a propane torch. We then wrapped it in insulation and let it cool overnight.

I did not check the gear pattern before but it looks ok now. Before the carrier came out by hand, now it needs to be lightly pryed out with a pry bar.

Doing a second one in a week or two. Both will be used in competition.

Well crap, they're too big, and I don't have any software to resize, so gimme a few mins and I'll throw 'em up on my webspace.

Ary

Here ya go, sorry 'bout the size :flipoff2:

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/arebrahi/Bee%20Rock%2060%20Housing.jpg

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/arebrahi/Bee%20Rock%2060.jpg

Got any pics of the inside of this thing??

are you guys also decreasing the od of the ring gear?

I can't see the point of doing this unless you get some REAL clearance out of this.....

some of these still look like they could be running an unmodded ring gear....

dare to shave your 60 so you get more room than a 44!

sharp, i'm still trying to find more info on the ring gear......

Sorry, no pictures inside. I made little blocks, welded them the to the 1/2" plate, and tapped them for the cover bolts.

Originally posted by ryankopecki
I shaved this one about 5/8". Somehow morpheus shaved to the same point and got 1" off of his, maybe he shaved down the bump a little more. Just down to the flat part of the bump and then I took some out of the webbing and smoothed the webbing. I think at the bottom it is only about 3/8" thick, so I'd say this is as far as you can go without cutting the bottom out and welding in a plate. 1" shaving would almost put a hole in it.

Did you just grind on yours ? I cut out the lower portion and welded in a piece that had a slight relief cut on the back side for the tip of the ring gear. If you look close at the first pic I took you can see the HAZ from the piece I welded in.

I got my just over 1" measurement from the amount of diff cover that I had to cut off. And the diff cover did not hang down past the lip of the diff when I started. I think the thickness of the lip casting might vary from diff to diff.

I'll try and get a bottom of diff to axle centerline measurment tonight. That's a much better comparison method than saying I cut x.x" off ...

- jack

thanks Morpheus, do you have the final product pics?

SuperRanger, do you have pics of the bottom too, and how much did you take off the ring gear?
so the 1/2" plate has 2 bends in it to make a somewhat "s" shape? also did you just take enough off the ring gear to make it clear the 1/2" plate or did you notch the plate on the inside to clear the gear too?

thats a really slick setup, would you mind measuring from the bottom of diff to axle centerline, one last thing, how many of the cover bolts were affected andneeded to have new ones tapped?
thanks

Originally posted by Sharp
thanks Morpheus, do you have the final product pics?


yeah, I'll try and get some tonight along with that measurement.

awesome! thanks :beer:

Originally posted by Sharp
thanks Morpheus, do you have the final product pics?

SuperRanger, do you have pics of the bottom too, and how much did you take off the ring gear?
so the 1/2" plate has 2 bends in it to make a somewhat "s" shape? also did you just take enough off the ring gear to make it clear the 1/2" plate or did you notch the plate on the inside to clear the gear too?

thats a really slick setup, would you mind measuring from the bottom of diff to axle centerline, one last thing, how many of the cover bolts were affected andneeded to have new ones tapped?
thanks



I didn't shave the ring gear at all. The 1/2" plate has 2 bends in it. I did not notch the plate to clear the ring gear. There is 1/2" plate below the whole ring gear.

Three of the cover bolts go into the plate. I made a 1/4" lip for the plate and continued it up the pig for a total of 5 bolts. I did this for added rigidity across the housing.

I think I got about 3/4 - 1" added clearance below the ring gear. The piece I cut off the housing looked a lot like the change here:

http://dynatrac.com/html/pro_rock_60_center_sections.html

The lowest point on the shaved housing is about 3/8" below the top of the stock housing flange. Make sense? I don't have any other pictures and the housing is across town getting gears.

morpheus, did you get a chance yet?

My Land Rover Salisbury axle is essentially a D60

We shaved it the other weekend, didn't touch the ring gear at all.

Have a look at
http://www.red-ibex.com/Salisbury_rear.htm

I've just measure mine 5.25" centre -> bottom
I've only got 1/16" clearance for the ring gear, so your not going to get to 5" without machining that I reckon.

Originally posted by Sharp
morpheus, did you get a chance yet?

Crap ... I forgot ... :( Tonight for sure.

- jack

btt for morpheus

okay...

the od of my ring gear was ground 5/16".....Easy XJ on this board, who does this work at his shop says this might be a bit much, we're experimenting on my axle, but has been grinding 1/4" of the ring gear as his "standard".....

I will measure my housing clearance gain from centerline to bottom tonight......

sorry! yes, it was 5/16 "worth of grinding" meaning the diamter was reduced by 5/8 total....

Has anyone tried shaving a 10.25? I'd like to go 60, but having a mid 90s Ford I am limited on choices.

well i kinda had a hard time getting a decent shot in the dark. maybe these will help. it's a piece of 3/8" in the bottom that I bent a bit in my press and then beveled both edges of the piece and the diff itself and put a full penetration weld on it. It drew up just a bit on me which is why I had to grind on it just a bit with a die grinder to stop the ring gear from rubbing. I'm lazy and didn't really see the gain from cutting the whole thing up like a proRock 60 when the lowest point is still the lowest point regardless of the shape of it. sorry they took me so long:

closeup:

sweet!
thanks guys!! :beer:

Originally posted by morpheus
I took a bit more than 1" off of mine and in pic#2 where the red triangles are in this pic I cut some 3/16" plate to that shape and welded it there. The bottom is totally smooth now to where it won't catch on the lip.

- jack I didn't realise how much you can shave. Looks like I'll be shaving my axles soon :D

I shaved about 6 inches off my 60errrr actually I swapped to unimogs:flipoff2:

Are you guys pre and post heating the housing before you weld? Can I just weld the plates on with my mig and not worry about heating it?

i think all precautions should be taken as far as pre and post heating, but i'm not sure how well it works without, have any of you guys done this ...if not any probs?

Originally posted by J Bruce
Are you guys pre and post heating the housing before you weld? Can I just weld the plates on with my mig and not worry about heating it?

I'm also curious how it's holding up. I know someone out there said fawk it and zinged on a plate.

I haven't got the rest of my truck finished to use mine yet but I did not pre or post heat but did find that I had to peen the welds on the bottom plate I added in when using the Ni rods.

On the 3/16" plates I added to the exterior of the housing I ended up welding those on with my mig using a "buttering" pass technique. I think the same thing could be done with pre-heat and a good slow cool.

I experimented around a bit when welding the smoothing plates to the outside as this was the first big cast thing I've ever welded. I found when using my mig that before the housing got hot my welds would crack almost immediately once it started to cool. After a few puzzled attempts of this, even with peening, and the same cracking the housing got hot just from welding on it and grinding it back off. Once the housing was good and hot it welded just fine with my mig ... of course your results may vary.

- jack

you cant get good, solid strucural welds on ast iron without preheat and insulating the cooldown so it lasts a long time.

for welding on pigs the best luck ive had is to get a "rosebud" torch, preheat til its nice and hot, and after the weld is finished i wrap in mineral fiber insulation and duct tape it on. it keeps it warm all night, nice and slow cooling.

ive never MIGd a diff, so I cant talk about that.

BTT.. :flipoff2:

How is everyones stuff holding up now? This is the first thread I came across with pics! WoohoO! LOL

Here ya go, sorry 'bout the size :flipoff2:

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/arebrahi/Bee%20Rock%2060%20Housing.jpg

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/arebrahi/Bee%20Rock%2060.jpg

Got any pics of the inside of this thing??
Hey any pics of the bottom or insides of this yet?

You guys that are turning down the ring gear, how are you chucking them up in the lathe?

Mine's a D70, but same concept.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=129403&stc=1

More pics:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=247065&page=5&highlight=taxi+build

Ed

You guys that are turning down the ring gear, how are you chucking them up in the lathe?

I am using a junk carrier with one bearing removed. Then mount the carrier into the chuck. Then use my big azzed grinder to cut down the ring gear.
Of course, this is an old worn out lathe, and my friend that owns it is not concerned about the carbide wearing out the tracks on the lathe.

I will be doing a 14 bolt in the next week or so. I will try and post some pics as I will be putting the ring in the water jet, then trueing it up in the lathe. I will plate it with 1/2" steel with a 1/8" relief machined in to it for the ring gear. I will be posting pics as this progresses.

How much clearance are you guys gaining on the 60s without machining the ring gear? How much clearance are you guys gaining on the 60s with machining the ring gear?

Ken

No idea what the measurement is, but it required the ring gear to be shaved flat. Has more clearance than the Dana 41 it replaced. http://www.oldjeep.com/images/winter0304projects/D60%20004.jpg

when welding on the pig you can use a stick welder with a nickel rod that has a iron dust flux and you don't have to do all the pre heating or postheating, although you do need to use a pinging tool to release the stress from the weld in between welds and when finished. The last pig we welded on, we didn't have a pinging tool there and it's held up fine.