I started plumbing my brake system tonight. I'm plumbing it all with AN fittings, stainless steel braided lines, and installing cutting brake solenoids on the rear brakes. This will be a several week project, and I'll update it with more pics and part numbers as I complete things.

I got all my fittings and line from Summit.

Here's what I got so far:

More fittings:

Proportioning valve for the rear brakes. I have discs on my 14B.

Starting at the rear calipers, you need to determine what the thread size is for the calipers. Mine are 7/16 x 20 thread. I used these adapters that convert it to the AN fitting size I needed.

You'll need to install these fittings with a copper washer under them to seal them off. I got the copper washers with the disc brakes.

All the fittings I used are steel and plated to resist corrosion. I used steel because it is more durable than aluminum, especially in the thread area.

Here's the adapter installed in the caliper.

Make sure to use actual line wrenches and AN wrenches. Otherwise you might round off the corners on the fittings.

Here are the rear flex lines installed: They are Earl's - part #63010110 - 10 inch braided stainless lines.

So far costs are:

Caliper to AN thread fittings: 13.39 for the pair
Stainless steel 10" lines: 9.95 each = 19.90

More updates to follow.

Ryan

have you checked to make sure your system will have 2psi residual pressure to keep the pads "dragging" the rotors? in mud/water conditions it may be hard to stop with stuff between the pad/rotor. just a thought i had.:D

Originally posted by FULLSIZE
have you checked to make sure your system will have 2psi residual pressure to keep the pads "dragging" the rotors? in mud/water conditions it may be hard to stop with stuff between the pad/rotor. just a thought i had.:D

There ain't much mud around Moab. :flipoff2:

Originally posted by tv_larsen


There ain't much mud around Moab. :flipoff2:


:flipoff2:

hopefully i'll find out for myself in late march/april....................:beer:

Made some more progress today. Got the bulkhead fittings mounted and the flex lines attached.

Thought about where to mount the fittings for a while and decided to run them through the spring perches. It makes them rock-proof, and I can remove the axle really easily and not have to worry about moving the lines around to get the springs out etc.

Here is one of the bulkhead fittings and a bulkhead nut.

P/N EAR-963203 for the fittings. They're Earl's and 5.69 each.
P/N EAR-561803 for the nuts. They come in pairs @ 5.99/pair.

Installed. If you decide to run lines through the pads make sure you have enough room to get a line wrench on all the fittings. It's really close on mine, but just clears.

From the back side. I put the bulkhead nut on the inside and the fitting through the outside of the perch.

This turned out super clean. I'd say it was worth the extra time.

If a rock hits this it will be a freak occurrence.

In the pics I have the tube sleeve and tube nut installed that will mount the 3/16" line. I'm waiting on my 37* flare tool.

More to follow...

Ryan

how are you going to plumb the cutting brakes?
linelock solenoids?

Yep. Linelock solenoids.

Basically one line into a "T" fitting and swivel adapters from the T fitting to the solenoids. Then the rear flex lines to the diff, hardlines, then flex lines at the calipers.

I've actually finished plumbing it. Just need to get some more pics up I guess.

Ryan

Brakes are finished. Idon't have time to post all the part #s right now so if anyone has any questions feel free to ask me.

Here's what the line lock solenoids look like:

2

Axle:

And one brake line goes under the shock and the other has a U-bend in it because I'll be welding on a truss shortly. Yes, I plan to abuse 14 bolt. :) Flip, roll, whatever.

Ryan

no comments on the brake setup other than it looks real good.

i do have one concern though. the shock mounts, although probably plenty strong for a stock truck, look like they could fail under stress. i would add some sort of hoop from framerail to framerail that ties into the top of the shock mounts. just a suggestion

wes

Those shocks are the 15" travel ford ones, right? I'll have to try those, sure beats $100+ per bilstein.
Your build-up is a total inspiration for my power wagon project, I just can't wait to get it started.

Originally posted by Murdoc79RC
Those shocks are the 15" travel ford ones, right? I'll have to try those, sure beats $100+ per bilstein.
Your build-up is a total inspiration for my power wagon project, I just can't wait to get it started.

They're Rancho 5036's. 15" of travel and about 36.99 each from Summit. The Bilsteins are good too, but for slow speed stuff the Rancho's will work fine. And you can't beat the price.

Ryan

Quick question, who makes those line lock solenoids, and where did you buy them from?

I think they're Biondo brand.

I got them from Summit. This was about a year ago now, so what's available now could be different.

Ryan

I see you have two solenoids, one for each side. How are you going to effectively use them with a Detroit in the 14bolt? You can't have one wheel driving with the other stationary. If your 14b is open it'll work great. If not, it's a waste of money beacuse you"ll be locking both wheels with either solenoid.

Originally posted by AlaskaXJ
I see you have two solenoids, one for each side. How are you going to effectively use them with a Detroit in the 14bolt? You can't have one wheel driving with the other stationary. If your 14b is open it'll work great. If not, it's a waste of money beacuse you"ll be locking both wheels with either solenoid.

I have a modified shift rail on my 205 allowing front wheel only. When in front wheel only you can lock one side, even with a Detroit, and the detroit will let them turn independently.

Ryan

Why go through all that trouble and expense to lock one side of a non-driving axle? How funny. Dragging a tire along. If you can run in front wheel drive only, it is of no advantage to lock one rear wheel in a turn. The rear would just float and follow along with no resistance to the turn if left un-line locked. Now in a selectable locker there are all kinds of advantages. Sand rails have been doing that for years.

Tell you what. We've tested this out several times. You get in a gravel parking lot and measure your turning radius with your line lock on and with it off. Then report back here with the results. I laugh everytime I see this.

Originally posted by AlaskaXJ
Why go through all that trouble and expense to lock one side of a non-driving axle? How funny. Dragging a tire along. If you can run in front wheel drive only, it is of no advantage to lock one rear wheel in a turn. The rear would just float and follow along with no resistance to the turn if left un-line locked. Now in a selectable locker there are all kinds of advantages. Sand rails have been doing that for years.

Tell you what. We've tested this out several times. You get in a gravel parking lot and measure your turning radius with your line lock on and with it off. Then report back here with the results. I laugh everytime I see this.

Noob. :rolleyes:

Gravel and red rock are two very different surfaces.

LOL. Laws of Physics apply to all. Friction and motion.

That is one badass brake setup thanks for the ideas just about to put a 14b under my R/C. What disk brake kit your running?:D

so, how does it work with the detroit? Good/bad, any improvments you could make, or is it good?
Thanks

Got the 14B Disk brake kit from Boyce back when they were more reasonably priced. Not sure if they made it in house or outsourced it. I know it's different from the TSM disk brake kit that a lot of people run.

As far as the line locks, I wiped out two brake lines over EJS, and took off the line locks and went to one rear line. I scavenged parts off them (fittings) to get it wheelable the rest of the week. I haven't put them back on, and have ordered a CNC dual handle cutting brake that should be here in a week. From people I've talked to they like that set up better than the electrick line locks.

Ryan

okay thanks.