I was thinking about welded diff's and had a question...

It seems that there would be a benefit to drilling into the case and spider gears to be able to drop some steel rod through both and welding that in place to help keep it locked and reduce the chances of the welds failing. Does that sound reasonable?

Sounds reasonable but drilling thru the spider gears sounds like a PITA.

Originally posted by DRM
I was thinking about welded diff's and had a question...

It seems that there would be a benefit to drilling into the case and spider gears to be able to drop some steel rod through both and welding that in place to help keep it locked and reduce the chances of the welds failing. Does that sound reasonable?

No, mostly becuase of the time you will spend drilling through the gears......

it would work until you were to shear those metal rods aka pins.

I saw somewhere where they welded in little chunks of steel between the spider gears. Basically the steel took the abuse and the weld just held them there. I think it was in a mag, but fogot which one. It would be a hell of alot easier then drilling through the thing though.
joe

When you find the drill bits that will last for that job please let everyone that wants to drill a new spring hole know the brand!!!

That article was in Peterson's. Just little blocks of steel dropped in alongisde the verticle spiders and welded down. Thought that looked pretty slick myself.

I actually think thats a pretty good idea!

it would be much easier if you removed the gears drilled them first, then reinstalled and used them as guides to drill the case, but then swiss cheese the case might be counter productive since it seems to be the weak link.

I tihk ive got some junkers hanging around Ill see how hard they are to drill, I doubt too hard, oil and slow.

Oil and slow, use a solid carbide spade drill or two. You can get these from MSC or any good machine supply house. A buddy's M-1 Garand receiver was drilled and tapped for a D-type scope rail this way. Those receivers are RC-58.

I got that pedersons mag. My front is locked up like that article.

If you wanna see that article u can go to peterson web site and look up the article or PM me and i'll scan it 4 u

I reckon that halfway through drilling those holes, you'll be cursing and thinking, "why in the hell didn't I just buy a spool"

Originally posted by BillaVista
I reckon that halfway through drilling those holes, you'll be cursing and thinking, "why in the hell didn't I just buy a spool"

Show me a 30 spline Dana 60 spool, and my money is spent ;)

if you can use a Tig and use high tinsil rod. i wouldnt bother drilling the gears.

I must have missed something or this is an extension of another post but why are you worried about just welding a d60 30 spline carrier? You will most likely break an axle before the welds if done right. I filled the gaps between the spiders and side gears with weld until they were unrecognizable. Or the metal chunk idea is good. It isnt like the value of the carrier should deter anyone from welding it up. They are 50bucks new from dana. I think I saw a 35 spline spool somewhere for like 160bucks and then get 1.5in 35 spliners for those 42s you will need it.I have a 40 spline spool Ill sell ya for 250, its the good one from strange.

everyone i've seen welded(were poor up here in the hills so thats a lot) we just weld the side gears to the carrier and then fill between the spiders and side gears where they mesh. helps to heat(helps to get the gear oil out) then sand blast then clean really good before welding.:beer:

Originally posted by FULLSIZE
everyone i've seen welded(were poor up here in the hills so thats a lot) we just weld the side gears to the carrier and then fill between the spiders and side gears where they mesh. helps to heat(helps to get the gear oil out) then sand blast then clean really good before welding.:beer:

Exactly thats what I did, and what a coincidense I am poor as well.

hey DRM do you want us to build this thing!!!!!

because at the rate you are going you are never gonna wheel

like the Nike slogan "Just Do it"!!!!

you will know if you used the Wrong method when it break's!!!



Adam

Originally posted by Adam Ant
hey DRM do you want us to build this thing!!!!!

because at the rate you are going you are never gonna wheel

Adam

lol - MOney is tight, I jst build a $13k shop, and I still have to get electricity out there before I can start :(

I have been riding for 8 years, and I have plenty of years left to enjoy this sport, I am in no hurry :D:D:D

ok just checking!!!

No axles, no bed... and just checking how the 42's will look :D:D:D

http://www.tennessee4x4.com/toyota/images/1tontoy/truckpile-01.jpg

I wouldn't bother drilling holes either. Just lay a lot of rod. I've got 9 years on mine with absolutely no problems. I remember that petersons article, it looked real cute and all, but I think it was a bit light duty. If you weld the hell out of em, they won't break.

http://home.earthlink.net/~mattsara/bb/w14a.jpg

That kind of rod burning makes me get HAWWWWWTT :D:D:D:D

I had an old timer in the area do it. He's been welding diffs longer than I've been alive. It took all day, he did all the preheating etc. He used to ARC em, but switched to a 220 mig a few years earlier. It ain't pretty, but it's proven.

use high tinsil rod

Is that like a special Christmas rod for the season?:D :D :smokin:

just weld the spiders to the case and also to each other. start as far in as ya can then work your way out. it'll work fine. no need for high tensil or heating it up. use a mig so you can get further in to start. and weld everywhere they make contact. ive hammered mine hard and still no cracks.

I broke a few teeth off the ring and pinion of my welded Toy diff and the welds held fine. Just the spiders were welded together with a 220 MIG, 8 welds total, 2 or 3 layers each.

clean the area good then after welding sandblast to remove any lose splatter that might eat your ring gear down the line. Other than that weld the hell out of it don't worry about drilling w/rods

What is the best way to git rid of all the oil before welding them:question:

take the ring gear off clean the carrier with brake parts cleaner or something similar. let it dry then lay down some type of welding prep spray to minimize splatter be sure to weld it HOT:mad3: but not to the point it distorts the splines on the inside

like tankoma said, whats the best way to get rid of all the oil? and for you guys that weld 'em up with the arc welder, whats a good way to get all the spatter out? i got anti-spatter goo so i was gonna use as much of it as i could, but any help is appriciated.
thanks
Brent

I think the best way to do it is to just weld the spider gears together it doesn't matter if the welds crack the spider gears won't spin, this way you don't weaken the carier which is the part that breaks. The carrier is cast steel and you will weaken it by welding on it unless you do a stress relief after. As far as spatter goes I think 7018 leaves a lot less spatter than mig, so with what I have in my garage I would use that. If I had easy access to a Tig and didn't pay for the argon I would use that. It is a bad idea to weld it in the vehicle but it is a much worse idea to weld it in the vehicle with the ground clamp attached to the housing so that the current has to be conducted through the bearings. clamp it to a ring gear bolt or something. And like most everyone has mentioned cleanliness is next to godliness when it comes to welding.

good advice on the bearings that goes for any welding on the housing however if the welds on the spider gears crack it will eat a ring gear