ok, these are pics off a site I found.....which is worse here?


<img src=http://home.earthlink.net/~riverbeast/steering_files/image020.jpg>

or

<img src=http://home.earthlink.net/~riverbeast/steering_files/image004.jpg>

or

<img src=http://home.earthlink.net/~riverbeast/steering_files/image006.jpg>

once again, sorry about the size, I didn't feel like saving them, resizing them, and then reposting.

The last one was on here before, but what i want to know is:

What is the fascination with highlighting mechanical f**k-ups in bright yellow? :confused:

I would say that #1 is the least scariest.

#2 is just stock steering stretched way beyond what its supposed too. Got bump steer?

#3 was just a temporary setup, so it has been told. It is absolutely the scariest of them all.

top one is worse, second and third ones are the SAME as far as the forces placed on the joints.... I would say that probably the third one is "best" because the odd design at least puts the joints in better working angles.

what is almost as dangerous is that this man is highly reguarded for his suspension/steering over on ifsja.org

you should take a look at his 7 inch rear shackle flip kit.

On second thought, for that third one to be best, it actually needs MORE gussets, since the way it is now the failure point is just outside of the square.... it will want to bend there.

So pic #2 is best IMHO.

The top one is an aftermarket 3" spacer that is designed to go under a stock Chevy U shaped arm...I don't know if it is safe in that set up though....

Originally posted by Welby1220
The last one was on here before, but what i want to know is:

What is the fascination with highlighting mechanical f**k-ups in bright yellow? :confused:

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: LMFAO! :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

YELLOW = PERFORMANCE

STICKERS = PERFORMANCE

Haven't you ever been to beaterz.com?
:D

Jake

he seriously need to lower that steering box. Or get lower lift springs. What do you really need with 12in lift springs??

i thought the chrome diff cover was scariest followed by the yellow paint... someone please give him one of those billet steering arms before he kills someone... the mods themselves dont scare me that much til u put them on a heavy wagoneer with 40's...

you gotta give him some credit for trying and standing behind his work...

the real question here is how would you tell him to fix it? someone give him some guidance so he can make it right...

I'll #1

Steve
84 Xtracab
<font color=black>--</font><font color=red>________</font>
d<font color=red>/________\</font>b
<font color=black>|</font><font color=red>[</font><font color=yellow>O</font>=====<font color=yellow>O</font><font color=red>]</font>
<font color=black>||</font><font color=yellow>||</font> __/ <font color=yellow>||</font>
<font color=darkgray>[::]</font>-<font color=red>O</font>---<font color=darkgray>[::]</font>

Originally posted by toymaniac
he seriously need to lower that steering box. Or get lower lift springs. What do you really need with 12in lift springs??

As far as engineering goes. I think we all know this is wrong. But look at it. This thing will never see any wheeling, except mabey on a parking block at the mall. So the real scary part is, whichever option 1,2,or3 is going to be out on public streets where it can cause real problems.

Short of lowering the steering box (hard to say what is feasable as far as lowering the box/longer pitman arm without more pics), I'd say:

1) Setup similar to the first pic, but with a shorter block or a taller arm, maybe an angled arm, and just live with a little bump steer.

or

2) Keep the first setup and add hydro assist. This would keep the good geometry (as far as bumpsteer is concerned, not stress), and take most of the stress off the mechanical linkage.

It also looks to me (hard to tell, though) that the wheels in use have minimal backspacing, compounding any steering strength issues. Also, trim the extra 6" off the u-bolts while you're under there (unless of course you plan to later add front blocks :D). Also, for the love of God, paint the whole undercarriage black. Please.

This guy is on the board, and recieved one hell of a flame job about the Z-bar linkage. I don't recall the whole thread, but it was a temporary job, and the guy did at least seem like he wanted to make it safe and was open to suggestions.

Pete

Suggest you don't do any and go look at the big turf trucks that use a hinge sway point and alot of dampners to control the feedback...or lower the steering box but that has its limits to...or go hydraulic and don't worry about it at all.....

I say the first is more dangerous because it was made to be the final solution.

As for the second Engineering disaster It is safer only because it was temporary and is now gone:D

The guy who did this is a professional welder and have done the same to other trucks. No failures so far... :rolleyes:
http://www.ite.mh.se/~patost/ih/ihpics2/FrontPinion.JPG
http://www.ite.mh.se/~patost/ih/ihpics2/FrontLeftKnuckle.JPG

in #1 he could easily have those blocks machined in 1/2 and still have enuff clearance and his steering setup would be fine. it is prolly fine the way it is in #!, but it just doesnt look right. i ran a similar setup on a d44 before i went to a d60 and it worked fine, but i didnt have that much block.

patric: I'm glad you and your scout live FAR from me.:flipoff2: :eek:

Originally posted by Patrik
The guy who did this is a professional welder and have done the same to other trucks. No failures so far... :rolleyes:
http://www.ite.mh.se/~patost/ih/ihpics2/FrontPinion.JPG
http://www.ite.mh.se/~patost/ih/ihpics2/FrontLeftKnuckle.JPG

Not to sound to harsh but it seems like he may have took the pro out of professional. LOL just kidding it does show that just because you can build it good does not mean that it is designed good.

#1 looks like a waste of a good flatop knuckle.
#2 has bumpsteer and broken pitman arms written all over it.
#3 has all the right angles and looks somewhat stout, but I hope that person has a serious power steering pump and dosn't take that setup into rocks, or logs.

#1 Looks like a Parts Mike spacer block doesn't it? And I think that set-up belongs to a FSJ guy on the board. Least scariest IMHO, but go with a shorter block.

#2 Makes for horrible bumpsteer. Could probably be helped with a little more drop pitman, and the draglink going to a high-steer arm with maybe a 1" block.

#3 Someone said it was only temporary, but that sure looks like a lot of fabbing to be only temporary. :rolleyes: If it's only temporary, why not do like #2? The guy probably decided it was only temporary after a bunch of people gave him crap about it.

It's all crap.

I wouldn't build anything my family was gonna ride in like that.

Originally posted by Sixgun
#1 looks like a waste of a good flatop knuckle.
#2 has bumpsteer and broken pitman arms written all over it.
#3 has all the right angles and looks somewhat stout, but I hope that person has a serious power steering pump and dosn't take that setup into rocks, or logs.

The ONLY angle in #3 that is better than #2 is the TRE at the pitman arm. In fact it could be argued that the angle on the TRE between the drag link and the tie rod is worse, since you are now putting a side load on it. Also, as mentioned above (by DRM), it's missing gussets.

Pete

I personally like #1 for the shocking yellow paint and the bending ubolt flip plates.

Patrik The guy who did this is a professional welder and have done the same to other trucks. No failures so far...

http://www.ite.mh.se/~patost/ih/ihpics2/FrontPinion.JPG http://www.ite.mh.se/~patost/ih/ihpics2/FrontLeftKnuckle.JPG

Ok, this looks like he had a good idea behind it. But some of the things that scare me is that the shackles are welded together, and the brake lines are taught at full lock, let alone lets just think about how they break when the suspension flexes. Also, someone bent the ends of the leaf springs. The center of those arms, are not putting the stress in the center of the knuckle, but near the end of the steering knuckle. also it is too tall. It also looks like there is a block under the pass side spring, and also it looks like to me that the tie rod end is welded to the arm. I dont want to look at that any more. I am getting way too scared. I think it would be MUCH better to have just left it all stock, and cut about 3/4 of the pitman arm through with a sawzall, and do 115 on the highway. Ok, engough $0.02 for today.

you think that stuff is scary, look at this:
http://128.83.80.200/taco/scary2.jpg
aparently he wanted a 15" lift with stock springs. and the draglink is beyond me. worst part is not only did he put 3' shackles on it and drop the spring mount the same, he didn't even make em well, he just chopped the old ones and welded in new center sections.

Dallas

I like 1 the best the stresses on the steering studs are similar to what they would be in the intended application for that block. I think that is less scary than a chevy with stock type steering using that same block and the same tires. I certainly think 1 is the best option of the three presented. But hey all three will work fine for backing on and off the trailer.

Well, Patrick, you asked for it.

You sir, are a foolish person (I was going to say idiot, but didn't want to be rude).

The person who calls themself a profesional welder who made this disaster is a dangerous foolish person.

Just because you are a welder, doesn't mean you understand jack about physics and forces, and dynamics...and you supplied the proof.

How is that drag link connected to that horrible bracket thingy anyway?

BTW - nice beefy looking front driveshaft you got there - what is that, a toothpick?:flipoff2:

Don't post this horrific shit here any more.

1) was the final product.....

2) was what he started out with and had massive bumpsteer

3) was designed to be a fix...then he got flamed so it became a temp. fix


I was NEVER planning on doing any of these myself.....don't worry about that...just wanted to see ya'alls opinions about this.

Originally posted by PW
Ok, this looks like he had a good idea behind it. But some of the things that scare me is that the shackles are welded together, and the brake lines are taught at full lock, let alone lets just think about how they break when the suspension flexes. Also, someone bent the ends of the leaf springs. The center of those arms, are not putting the stress in the center of the knuckle, but near the end of the steering knuckle. also it is too tall. It also looks like there is a block under the pass side spring, and also it looks like to me that the tie rod end is welded to the arm. I dont want to look at that any more. I am getting way too scared. I think it would be MUCH better to have just left it all stock, and cut about 3/4 of the pitman arm through with a sawzall, and do 115 on the highway. Ok, engough $0.02 for today. The shackles are not welded together, they are bolted together with the stock IH Scout swaybar. :flipoff2:
The brake lines are long enought, although they look short at this angle.
As for the rest, you might be right.
If you rather cut 3/4 of the pitman arm and do 115, thats up to you. This works for me. :)

#1 is the safest because it is on jackstands.

Originally posted by Hayraker
#1 is the safest because it is on jackstands.


Perfect and thats where it should stay.

I dont see a problem with cutting the #1 block down and running it but the turf truck steering idea is the best Ive heard. The spring pad that is welded(I hope) to the cast is too narrow, and the u bolt plate is bowing. The #1 is the best of all 3. The springs are never going to flex enough to lay that steering right across the top so Id shorten the block as much as possible.

Originally posted by pcorssmit


The ONLY angle in #3 that is better than #2 is the TRE at the pitman arm. In fact it could be argued that the angle on the TRE between the drag link and the tie rod is worse, since you are now putting a side load on it. Also, as mentioned above (by DRM), it's missing gussets.

Pete

Are you looking at the same pics?!?!?!
(ref my crappy illustration)
1. looks pretty good....
2. looks pretty good, no bumpsteer there....
3 and 4. look pretty damn good too.....

At least #3 isn't going to shear the pitman arm off or bend the main and drag links when pressure is exerted.

ok, these are pics off a site I found.....which is worse here?

I think stinkbug's takes the cake. :rasta:

OK, CHECK IT OUT!
THE BUMPER ON #2 AND#3 ARE THE SAME = SAME VEHICLE!
AND THE FRONT " U" BOLTS IN #1 AND #3 LOOK THE SAME AS DOES THE REAR SHOCK IN #1 AND THE FRONT SHOCK IN #3 AND NOT TO MENTION THE :rainbow: PAINT JOB. MY CONCLITION IS THE ONE WHO POSTED THESE IS ETHER THE OWNER/BUILDER/OR A FRIEND OF PRE-MENTIONED
JUST MY $0.02

Yes they are all the same rig. It is a fsj wagoneer an like 40s. I ahve seen the pics on a post where we all flamed the #3 pic when he asked how it looked. Rick you hopped up on the dope or what? The #3 is the worst of the 3 because of the heat of the welds and the lack of gussets. Sorry bud JMO they all are sick.

Originally posted by Sixgun


Are you looking at the same pics?!?!?!
(ref my crappy illustration)
1. looks pretty good....
2. looks pretty good, no bumpsteer there....
3 and 4. look pretty damn good too.....

At least #3 isn't going to shear the pitman arm off or bend the main and drag links when pressure is exerted.

Er, hate to break it to ya but, the angle at the ball joints has nothing to do with bump steer. Yes, the angle at the joints is good (as Pete said). That is important for them to work right and avoid binding. However, the bump steer is no better in number 3 than in number 2 because the angle of the LINE CONNECTING THE JOINTS is what determines the extent of your bump steer. Typically the least bump steer will be found when the line connecting the two drag link joints is horizontal.

Originally posted by StinkBug
you think that stuff is scary, look at this:
http://128.83.80.200/taco/scary2.jpg
aparently he wanted a 15" lift with stock springs. and the draglink is beyond me. worst part is not only did he put 3' shackles on it and drop the spring mount the same, he didn't even make em well, he just chopped the old ones and welded in new center sections.

Dallas

I don't think it's possible to get any scarier than that :eek:

How would he go around a bend without the whole front end folding under the rig :eek:

Please tell what state to stay out of :D

you think that stuff is scary, look at this:


StinkBug, where did you find that, I would like to see some more, talk about a budget lift.....hehe.

you think that stuff is scary, look at this:
Please tell me that that vehicle isnt on the roads

Originally posted by BadDog


Er, hate to break it to ya but, the angle at the ball joints has nothing to do with bump steer. Yes, the angle at the joints is good (as Pete said). That is important for them to work right and avoid binding. However, the bump steer is no better in number 3 than in number 2 because the angle of the LINE CONNECTING THE JOINTS is what determines the extent of your bump steer. Typically the least bump steer will be found when the line connecting the two drag link joints is horizontal.

1. no $hit, look at my post again, I'm sayin #2 is not causing bumpsteer...(BECAUSE THE LINE CONNECTING THE JOINTS) is fawking horizontal NOT at an angle..one more time #2 NOT 3 and 4. the box thing is great for bumpsteer but sucks because of what Wheelinjp and DRM said Too many welds not enough gusseting.

Anymore Cyber professionals (and newbies) wanna state the obvious???

Originally posted by StinkBug
you think that stuff is scary, look at this:
http://128.83.80.200/taco/scary2.jpg
aparently he wanted a 15" lift with stock springs. and the draglink is beyond me. worst part is not only did he put 3' shackles on it and drop the spring mount the same, he didn't even make em well, he just chopped the old ones and welded in new center sections.

Dallas
Holy rolling death trap...that is probably the single scariest set-up I have ever seen...come one someone call the cops..

Originally posted by Sixgun


1. no $hit, look at my post again, I'm sayin #2 is not causing bumpsteer...(BECAUSE THE LINE CONNECTING THE JOINTS) is fawking horizontal NOT at an angle..one more time #2 NOT 3 and 4. the box thing is great for bumpsteer but sucks because of what Wheelinjp and DRM said Too many welds not enough gusseting.

Anymore Cyber professionals (and newbies) wanna state the obvious???

And I'm saying there is no difference in the bump steer from (original) pics #2 and #3. The "box thing" is mostly useless for anything other than correcting operating angles of the joints. It is no different than a cobbled together version of a bent drag link in that respect. I don't care if the thing is honey-combed and gusseted from one end to the other with the finest high strength titanium alloy, it does nothing for bump steer. I don't care if you twist it up to look like a pretzel, if it leaves the two end points (pivots) in the same relative positions, you have not done ANYTHING to fix bump steer.

Frankly, unless I misunderstand what your saying, your circles marked #3 and #4 have nothing to do with the point or my previous post.

Now, see if you can follow this "newbie". Come on, I'll hold your hand. I promise it will be ok...

Now, the angle of the little rods you point out in pic #3 (indicated by your circles #1 and #2) means pretty much nothing except to the range of motion for the joints. The ONLY thing that matters for bump steer (at least as far as the drag link in this discussion) is the (imaginary) line from one joint to the other. Because the monstrosity in pic #3 is rigid, AND the end points are at the same location relative to each other, it moves EXACTLY like the solid, straight drag link in pic #2. That is if we ignore potential flex and deflection in each approach. Bump steer is caused (in large part) by the movement of one end of that (imaginary) line in an arc around the other. The radius of that arc is the distance between the two PIVOT points. When the axle moves up relative to the frame, the axle end of the drag link is moving (tracing an arc around the pitman end) toward the passenger side relative to a stationary pitman arm forcing the tie rod toward the passenger side resulting in something known as "BUMP STEER"!

Originally posted by StinkBug
you think that stuff is scary, look at this:
http://128.83.80.200/taco/scary2.jpg
aparently he wanted a 15" lift with stock springs. and the draglink is beyond me. worst part is not only did he put 3' shackles on it and drop the spring mount the same, he didn't even make em well, he just chopped the old ones and welded in new center sections.

Dallas

WTF is going on on the back side of those springs. if the front is a 3' shackle.... why does the rear look like it has the same? or is it just tube going straight down and at a slight angle with no gussets.

now that things scares me the most, almost enough to make me go environazi to protect the youngin out in this world. :flipoff2:

Dallas,

Just got through browsing your website. You are one twixted individual (and I say that in a good way). Keep up the good work or Mr. Potato Head is comin' for ya when he gets out!

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

hey rockcrln........no, that is not my truck. no that is not a friend of mine.

I had grabbed a pic or two of his truck a LONG time ago when I was a Jeepin newbie and thought it was really cool.

well, after two years of making my rounds....a year at Jeepin.com, a few months at NAXJA, six months at JU, and now six months to a year here......I am scared by it.

I was doing a search on IFSJA.org looking for info on shackle flip kits and EVERY thread I looked at had people sending the person asking Q's to this guy. I went to look at his site to see how you can net 7 inches of lift out of a shackle flip kit and ran into his steering article.

like I said.....I don't know what's scarier...that this setup is on the highways or that everyone on ifsja reguards his fabrication work as high quality, dead on, and stuff to be patterned.

Originally posted by BadDog
Now, see if you can follow this "newbie". Come on, I'll hold your hand. I promise it will be ok.... [/B]

Okay man time to dust off your physics book and stop tryin to hold my hand.

The angle dosen't exist that you keep refering to do to that boxy lookin pretzel thing, the force exerted on the main is at the same relative plane as the force that the pitman is exerting. The box does it's force transferance thing and "fools" the main and force exerted on the main from the tires and "bumps" into attempting to transfer the bumpsteer along a horizontal axis. it can't come up at an angle like pic #2 because the boxy thing puts the forces on the same plane or angle. I give a rats @ss if the balljoints are happy, it's the meduim and angle that transfers the forces bro.

Originally posted by StinkBug
you think that stuff is scary, look at this:
http://128.83.80.200/taco/scary2.jpg
aparently he wanted a 15" lift with stock springs. and the draglink is beyond me. worst part is not only did he put 3' shackles on it and drop the spring mount the same, he didn't even make em well, he just chopped the old ones and welded in new center sections.

Dallas

i can't seem to find the problem with this picture. is it the street tires or what??? can some one help me understand what is wrong??? :flipoff2:

Sixgun, you writing your own physics book?

That's the biggest load of crap I've ever read.
You need to listen to BadDog. He's got it nailed. Draw a straight line from the pitman arm to the knuckle. That's the effective drag link. All the shit in the middle would work if it were chromed, but it aint.

:barf:

hey six gun,
can you build me a magic bumpsteer remover box too :flipoff2:

you dont have a clue what bumpsteer means
so before you write another word on the subject go look it up.

fawk i am quoting that so he cant delete it

Okay man time to dust off your physics book and stop tryin to hold my hand.

The angle dosen't exist that you keep refering to do to that boxy lookin pretzel thing, the force exerted on the main is at the same relative plane as the force that the pitman is exerting. The box does it's force transferance thing and "fools" the main and force exerted on the main from the tires and "bumps" into attempting to transfer the bumpsteer along a horizontal axis. it can't come up at an angle like pic #2 because the boxy thing puts the forces on the same plane or angle. I give a rats @ss if the balljoints are happy, it's the meduim and angle that transfers the forces bro.

Originally posted by taloya
Sixgun, you writing your own physics book?

That's the biggest load of crap I've ever read.
You need to listen to BadDog. He's got it nailed. Draw a straight line from the pitman arm to the knuckle. That's the effective drag link. All the shit in the middle would work if it were chromed, but it aint. I'm withe taloya and BadDog on this one.
But hell, we're just three newbies...:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

I gots to agree with Badog...........well put

Welcome "newbie" ;)

they all scare me, please no more.

First I don't know squat on the correct stearing setup but i have a fsj and want to do a SOA and i'm sure i'll run in to this problem. What is the correct/safe way to compensate for the lift?

the best is the steering arm on the knuckle
in the yellow pics it looks like he went to lengths to get the drag link dead parrallel,
nothing wrong with it but no need to do that, just makes the bumpsteer the same direction on both rebound and compression
the length of the draglink will help reduce bumpsteer and a slight angle will not hurt too bad.
there is no way you can eliminate bumpsteer with leafsprings,
just get it to the diminishing returns area.

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/bbs/3529.jpg

Originally posted by Bean
First I don't know squat on the correct stearing setup but i have a fsj and want to do a SOA and i'm sure i'll run in to this problem. What is the correct/safe way to compensate for the lift?

Dropped pitman arms or "over the top steering"
All of these pics on this post are poor if not dangerous examples of compensating for lift The trick is to get the drag link in line with the main tie rod and not at too much of an angle. :D

I wanna see six guns steering

Originally posted by mj
hey six gun,
can you build me a magic bumpsteer remover box too :flipoff2:

you dont have a clue what bumpsteer means
so before you write another word on the subject go look it up.

fawk i am quoting that so he cant delete it




Hey mj.........kiss my @ss. :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

hey I saved the pic to my hard drive too, that is some funny shitte

Okay I did my homework, and found out that pcorssmit and Baddog are right, and I am wrong. S link or Z link drags do nothing to correct for bumpsteer. My appologies for messing up some good pictures of crappy setups with crappie illustrations.
mj here is a pic of my steering setup before I welded a 1/4" plate to "cover" the ears on my shackle reversal horns.

well, since you posted that six gun
and I am fighting the same thing as is in this thread
I will show you the first mock up on my mess

http://wsphotofews.excite.com/039/5d/dj/FH/ma19187.jpg

headlight hieght has grown to about 3" over legal and I will be pulling leaves to soften the ride.
gotta love that ps tie rod end

Well if you can clear the passenger side leaf spring, a dropped pitman arm should fix your problem bro. If you can't clear the top of the leafs then you might have to try a different spring that has less leafs on the pack, or take some out of your existing packs.

that is at least a 4" drop pitman, dont think a larger one is made.
the angle of the draglink doesnt stress me at all
just the tie rod end being at a bad working angle
have to decide now whether to heat n twist the steering arm or scrap it and start over
leaves are definitely coming out of that pack

I'm fixen to put in a Toy LC / D44 hybrid with over the top steering so the 3 1/2" dropped pitman arm I'm currently using will be available if ya want it. I bought it from TPI and they corrected the drop by taking about an inch off the arm, so it is a little short 5 1/2" but it's safe and stout. It's tapped for Toy but you can drill it out for GM. Let me know if your interested.

Originally posted by Curtis
Dallas,

Just got through browsing your website. You are one twixted individual (and I say that in a good way). Keep up the good work or Mr. Potato Head is comin' for ya when he gets out!

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

Sorry, not my website, tho i wouldn't mind showin it off if it was. that guy is hilarious. and he has some seriously scary steering pics in there.

Dallas

Looks to me like what both mj and the guy with the FSJ need is a raised steering arm. Like a dropped pitman arm, only opposite and on the knuckle. It would accomplish the same thing as putting a spacer under a flat steering arm, but without excess torque on the mount. (Which is the only thing I see wrong with yellow paint guy's setup) How would you go about making one correctly? Would it have to be forged?

Thanks for the info mj and sixgun!!!

Would anyone have any pics of a fsj soa with the correct setup? I want to be able to fit 35's on it and do a soa but i have seen so much scary work that when i have someone do my soa i want to make sure that i know that they are doing it the best way not some hillbilly rig up.

Originally posted by Sixgun
Okay I did my homework, and found out that pcorssmit and Baddog are right, and I am wrong. S link or Z link drags do nothing to correct for bumpsteer. My appologies for messing up some good pictures of crappy setups with crappie illustrations.


:eek: :eek: :eek:

:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

At least you're man enough to admit it.:D


mj, Avalanche sells an angled arm that accepts TREs, price isn't to bad (sorry, don't recall what it is, though). However this doesn't help the pitman arm end. If you do decide to bend something, my suggestion is to use a shorter TRE (length-wise), and bend the drag link right at the ends (leave just enough straight for the threads before the bend), and make sure you're not experiencing deflection in the bend--you could gusset it depending on how it works out.


Pete

that is at least a 4" drop pitman, dont think a larger one is made

MJ, I believe it is SkyJacker, that makes a longer pitman arm. I can't recall what it cost, but it is quite large. I think they call it a cow-tongue or something like that???


Sorry, not my website, tho i wouldn't mind showin it off if it was. that guy is hilarious. and he has some seriously scary steering pics in there.

Where is a link to the site? I want to see that shiat.....

And Chris Geiger, where did you get those pics?

I am planning a budget lift like this soon and need some more info.....
thanks.







hell yeah I am kidding, but I would like to see some more pics like those. :D

I am not a pro welder by no means but the first picture is just down right scary. hey sixgun cool pic is that your bodyguard.

Originally posted by Dingo

Where is a link to the site? I want to see that shiat.....
:D

There are several here (http://128.83.80.200/taco/scarysteering.html).

It is a sub page of this (http://128.83.80.200/taco/) site which has other pages with similar stuff.