Hey guy's this may be dumb Question but here goes what is the difference between front wrangler springs and rear. I have fronts
now on the rear and am about to put fronts on the front but can get all 4 fr and rr from a guy in the club are the rears usefull or no

Seems like the fronts have 4 leaves, and the rears have 5? Same length all the way around.
Not sure, tho. Probably more critical if they came off of a 4 cyl. vs. I-6.

Oilburner is right on about leaves in the pack; Fronts have 4 and rears have 5.

I think that there is no difference between the 4 cyl and 6 cyl springs though.

:)

Originally posted by ralstonm

I think that there is no difference between the 4 cyl and 6 cyl springs though.

:)

Then why is it I can lift a fully-equipped 4 cylinder engine, but I can't pick up a 6 cylinder?;)

Both the front and rear springs are the same width and length. The only difference is that the rear are 4 leaf, the fronts are either 5 leaf (6cyl) or 4 leaf (4cyl).

I found they were too soft and am running 5 leaf fronts and 6 leaf rears.

because the specific gravity of a 4 cyl is much less. But it depends if it's a left thread 4 cyl.

Hey Burner, I'm heading to Memphis tomorrow for Christmas, my parents moved there. Yeah Graceland.

Matt

yeah, and it don't look the same as the 4yl. eather.....:flipoff2: .......

3 people post at almost the exactly same time......:eek:

Originally posted by ralstonm

Hey Burner, I'm heading to Memphis tomorrow for Christmas, my parents moved there. Yeah Graceland.

Matt


That SUCKS Matt:(

I am sorry that you have to leave COLORADO to come to MEMFRICA for Christmas. When I finally move out there, I will not be back!:D

Originally posted by ralstonm
heading to Memphis tomorrow for Christmas, my parents moved there.

Moved from Colorado TO Memphis!!!!:eek: The land of mud, misquitos, and humidity! What were they thinking!

I have bad allergies, I read one time that west TN is the Worst place for allergy sufferers to live. That's one more reason I need to move to AZ or CO. ;)

Thanx Guys I'l pickup all 4 extrass and alllllllll:D :smokin:

Thanx Guys I'l pickup all 4 extra Parts Goooooodddd :smokin: :D :smokin:

The 4-cyl YJ's came with 4-pack springs front and rear, while 6-cyl YJ's came with 5-pack springs up front and 4-packs in back.

I had 5-packs front and rear on my Samurai....the 5-packs are great up front, but too soft in back with my heavy hardtop/roofrack/bumper/tire carrier/33" spare/jerry can/hi-lift all in back, especially on hillclimbs. I also found them to be prone to spring wrap, even with just a 4.89 t-case and stock gears (and then once I broke my 4.89, I used 4.57 r&p's and a 4.16 t-case). I totally munched my set of rear 5-pack's on the Rubicon, and now that I have a Sumo t-case with 4.57's with no traction bar, I definitely needed to do something to beef up the stock rear springs.

So now I have assembled a pair of 6-packs for the rear, by using all 4 leaves from a 4-pack, and 2 intermediate-sized leaves from a 5-pack. Thus, what I have now are 6-pack rear springs that have 1 main leaf, 2 long leafs, 1 medium leaf, and 2 short leafs. The additional long leaf helps increase the spring rate (although it's still soft!) and the additional short leaf helps counter spring wrap. It also raised the rear of my Samurai up so it doesn't look like it's dragging its ass anymore, and my headlights are no longer in the eyes of oncoming drivers.

The great thing about stock YJ springs is that you can get mountains of them for free, if you know where to look. Check the junk piles out back of 4x4 shops, they usually have more stock YJ springs than they know what to do with, so they'll usually give them to you in exchange for a little :beer: money.

One trick the Jeep guys do it take a YJ main, cut the ends off and stick it under the main leaf in either a 4 or 5 pack. This provides some extra support for the main leaf. I noticed right where the main leaf hits the next leaf is where the spring starts to bend. Also if yor mixing and matching trying to get some more height out of a sagging spring pack, remember all of the 4 pack leafs are stiffer than the 5 pack leafs, so you can toss a whole 4 pack (cept the main) under a 5 pack main and get another .5-1" of lift. I'd reccomend picking up a spare set if you can get them cheap. With no bumpstops I ruined the main on a 5 pack after two runs. replaced them, added bumpstops and they lasted another 6 months before sagging pretty badly in the rear (I do four wheel nearly every weekend). I am trying out a set of 1.5" lifted YJ's now, they seem to flex just as good and fixed the sagging problem I had. Now we just have to see how many trails they can take.

Originally posted by zukiman
I had 5-packs front and rear on my Samurai....the 5-packs are great up front, but too soft in back with my heavy hardtop/roofrack/bumper/tire carrier/33" spare/jerry can/hi-lift all in back, especially on hillclimbs. I also found them to be prone to spring wrap, even with just a 4.89 t-case and stock gears (and then once I broke my 4.89, I used 4.57 r&p's and a 4.16 t-case). I totally munched my set of rear 5-pack's on the Rubicon, and now that I have a Sumo t-case with 4.57's with no traction bar, I definitely needed to do something to beef up the stock rear springs.



2 Words:

TRACTION BAR :flipoff2:

If you are concerned about the stock wrangler leaves sagging out I've seen folks buying some 6 leaf packs for a wrangler from JC whitney. Not as cheap as free, but not too expensive.

Also, I saw Spidertrax has a new traction bar for not too much money. Might help the springs fight off the wrap up issue.

As for me "moving" to Memmmmphis... Hell no. Just visiting, then I drive back out to Colorado. :)

Originally posted by ralstonm

Also, I saw Spidertrax has a new traction bar for not too much money. Might help the springs fight off the wrap up issue.




NOW yer TALKIN' http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/53-628154-thumb.gif

Originally posted by 0ILBURNER



NOW yer TALKIN' http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/53-628154-thumb.gif

Anyone looked/bought one of these. It looks kinda weak. Not much surface area holding that shock mount bracket to your diff. We tried something like this at work on a guys YJ, welded it on and then lowered the back end with the forklift, the weld on the diff snapped almost immediately.

Originally posted by Azrckcrawler
Anyone looked/bought one of these. It looks kinda weak. Not much surface area holding that shock mount bracket to your diff.

I was thinking the same thing. I had a traction bar bracket welded to my axle that was spread out over a much larger area, and it ripped a hole in the housing after two trail rides. I'm working on something new for the new axle that I put under there..... involves a spring perch/plate and u-bolts.;)

I have seen those type of traction bars work. Both of my neighbors run them on their toy trucks and they go wheeling ALL of the time and they have had no problems. I think you need to get the length right, otherwise it will want to move in a differnt arch than the axle, which would shred or work harden even the beefiest mounts.

Breeze trac bar now and Ive unloaded the cluth on dry pavement
with 4:16 and didnt bother spring one bit nor did it cause damage to the trac bar it self not that I cundone it I was just fawkin round I really like the breeze setup just my o2 By the way
I have bracket template for the axle for a track bar anybody wants to make there own let me know:D :smokin: :D

Fact is a single traction bar puts a ton of stress on your springs, just think about it, you have axle wrap, you put a single bar on your diff to the frame with no shackle, what gives now, the springs, simple as that, its been proven 1000 times by many people, and almost all mechanical engineers will agree a 2 point axle mount system is the only actual cure for axle wrap. We tried many single bar set ups, and they did nothing to limit axle wrap, and we tried them on everything, Toyota, Suzuki, Chevy, Ford the list goes on...

Now, one thing to remember is if your springs are stiffer than a stack of add a leafs, you may limit your axle wrap, but only because the springs are not bending, where as if you have soft springs, you'll get to watch them twist like crazy.....as your single bar does its job, of not flexing....

Next, our traction bar kit uses 2 plates that weld to the axle, in a 2 5/8ths half moon, 1/4 plate, one welds to the tube, one to the center section housing. Why so much, we tried a single, tore it out of the axle on the first trip, and it was tig welded, profesionally, we looked at other methods, thinking stronger not bulkier, but at last, we came down to using 2 mounts.

Were currently working on a new design, that will get our price down slightly, and be way cooler than anything I've seen so far.

sounds like your bracket is much like the breeze 2 half moons welded to the center section not to get into who's is better situation Im just stating that I dont Have axle wrap
with my setup its seems my scissor shackle opens
instead of the spring twisting which also put's more pressure
to the ground as the rear of the truck stands up just my
o2