I installed Holley's 300cfm Pro-Jection kit for CJ-7's with the 258ci cyl. It is part #501-12 from Jeg's. It was $720, but i'm into it for around $1000 because of all the extra's. It idles incredibly smoothly, better than i ever had it with the carb. It makes great midrage power, but backfires when i floor it. I need to keep tuning on it. It took about 12 hrs. to install by myself, including removal of the carb, and smog euip. and old fuel system. I did have to modify the adapter for the intake manifold, also, as Jeeps had different bolt patterns. Overall, I am very happy with the easiness, simplicity, performance, and tunability of the kit. It's nice to reach into the glovebox, turn a knob, and change your fuel/air ratio...

If anybody has questions, fire away...

HEEELLLOOOOO.....

When are you going to take pictures of those Rockwells??

Damn :p

i got pics back today, i need to find a scanner
everyone left Waco for X-mas, and the comp labs at school are closed. Kinko's is just too far of a drive, hahaha

I know, always some excuse-

Honestly, i want to put 44's on it before i show itt off. the 35's just look cheasy

I've been considering this swap as I'm tired of dealing with carb. problems everytime I go upwards. I had a rochestor and that was horrible, and my Jim C. OEM carb. just can't seem to cut it, although it gets great mileage. Have a friend who's pricing out the kit for me who gave me the heads up on this thread.

What extra parts did you have to get? Additional 02 sensor?
Holley e-mailed me stating the 501-12 was rated at 300 cfm for the Jeep, while the Land Cruiser required 320 cfm. Is the max tunable flow for the 501-12 300 cfm, or can it be tuned up a little? Heck, does it matter with a 2F? I had my 2F bored .020 over when I rebuilt, and have a non-usa distributer and a header - stock cam, etc. Not a real horsepower producer.

You say you modified the Jeep adaptor - did you modify the actual adaptor or did you need extra parts? Is the bore size and spread the same? Did you just redrill new bolt pattern (is there enough material there to do this)?

I've never actually seen a kit, are there enough ways to fine tune that will enable you to work out your full throttle/backfire problem? or, just one air/fuel adjuster? If there are multiple settings, are there measurable variables that you can post as a good starting point for others doing the conversion?

Other than the time, is this a relatively easy swap?

What's the warranty? Any fear of certain components such as the computer failing?

Thanks for posting your experiences, I hope to get the $$$ up for the kit by late Jan./early Feb.

Sounds like what I need.

Bill C.

What extra parts did you have to get? Additional 02 sensor?

I had to buy a Throttle cable conversion kit from Downey($100), six 1/4" pipe plugs for the air injectors on the head, adapter for temperature sensor(Downey), 25' of fuel line, hose clamps, a switch for the dashboard, wiring, a voltage meter, self-tapping #10 screws, other random things. The o2 sensor is optional, it costs another $100, and automatically adjusts your fuel mixture settings. I prefer to have control over tthe system, so i did not buy it.


Holley e-mailed me stating the 501-12 was rated at 300 cfm for the Jeep, while the Land Cruiser required 320 cfm. Is the max tunable flow for the 501-12 300 cfm, or can it be tuned up a little? Heck, does it matter with a 2F? I had my 2F bored .020 over when I rebuilt, and have a non-usa distributer and a header - stock cam, etc. Not a real horsepower producer.

I did not know this, i knew that 300cfm would be enough fo me. My engine is the same as yours. Bored .060, no cam, headers, dual exhaust, with mallory ignition(which sucks). the cfm limit is 300, i'm sure. But the engine would have to be turning around 3500 RPM's to use that limit, and i will probably never rev it that high. There is no way to adjust maximum cfm, though. the backfiring is not related to the small throttle body.

You say you modified the Jeep adaptor - did you modify the actual adaptor or did you need extra parts? Is the bore size and spread the same? Did you just redrill new bolt pattern (is there enough material there to do this)?

I had two redrill 2 new holes, and wallow out the 2 others. The jeep also uses a rectangular bolt pattern. The width is nearly identical, but the length is shorter than a cruiser. The bolts that hold the adapter to the intake manifold(supplied with kit) needed to be forced in first to re-size the aluminum. This was not a problem because the bolts are hardened, and cut the aluminum very easily. I did not modify the air passage, as it was very well designed by holley. It splits the air current from the single butterly valve two both sides of the intake manifold, for better fuel dispertion inside the intake manifold.

I've never actually seen a kit, are there enough ways to fine tune that will enable you to work out your full throttle/backfire problem? or, just one air/fuel adjuster? If there are multiple settings, are there measurable variables that you can post as a good starting point for others doing the conversion?

Okay, there are 5 knobs that all adjust the fuel/air ratio for different things. One is a main setting - this adjusts the mixture for every other setting, all across the board. One is an idle setting - this adjusts the mixture when the throttle position sensor is at the lowest point. One is choke - this adjusts the mixture when the vehicle is cold, and helps with hard starting. One is Accel - this adjusts the mixture when the throttle position sensor is in a higher position than the engine's RPM. One is High RPM - this adjusts the mixture when the RPM is over 3000.

To start off, i set the main about 1/4 turn up from the leanest possible setting, and the idle about 1/4 turn down from the richest possible setting. I have not begun to tune the Accel, or High RPM knobs yet. I believe it was backfiring because the engine was cold, and not burning the fuel in the cylynders effeciently enough. I do not have a thermostat, and it was probably running at about 130'. I am going to get a thermostat when i get back from vacation, hopefully that will help. I also need to tune the system for accel, and high rpm.

Other than the time, is this a relatively easy swap?

It was a relatively easy swap if you are familiar with your fuel and emissions system. Pulling the old stuff off took almost as long as putting the new stuff on. The Holley instructions are pretty easy, and they gave wayyy to much length on all the wiring, so it was eat to make things fit. I think tuning it will be the hardest part.

What's the warranty? Any fear of certain components
such as the computer failing?

HHmmmm. i didn't really check... okay i just looked, and i couldn't find a time limt, it just says that "failure of one part does not constitute a warranty claim on the entire system" so i guess they will replace just the ECU if it fails.

I will be away from computers for about a week, so reply with more questions if you want to, but you may not hear from me for several days. Good Luck!!

I just did some calculations, and the cruiser motor will need 306.71 CFM at 4000 RPM. This would be at 100% volumetric efficiency, which is not possible. So 300 cfm is plenty.

265CI / 1728 CI in a CF = .1533... - that's your engine size in cubic feet

.1533 * 2000RPM = 306.71 CFM

only 2000 rpm, because a 4 stroke fills half its displacement every 1 revolution, right? So at 4000 RPM, you need 306.71 cfm if there are no restrictions in the head or valvetrain. But we know that there is no 360' cam, so there are restrictions, and you will never use the whole 300 cfm.

Laters-

Sweet! Thanks for the response. You've answered most of the outstanding ques. that were holding me back. Last major question was with the adaptor plate, but it seems it will work just fine once redrilled. I will definitely be purchasing this system.

I'll have more questions when I get the parts. :D

Thanks again,

Bill C.

That is great info Elf. I put a 2Di system on a 302 in my FJ40 and bought it used with no instructions. I wouldn't think putting the kit you got on a cruiser 2F could be much harder (like you said half the time would be taken up with removing the smog stuff). The O2 sensor is actually a pretty sweet option. You do have to tune it close enough so that the corrections that can be made by the computer based on 02 info are within its limits but that is not too difficult. :beer:

I have been running pro-jection on a 350 crate motor for years.

The 2 throttle body model dumps some serious cfm. The computer is adjustable for various delivery settings which is nice.

I switched to lower lb injectors and my truck runs smoother and more efficient. This is primarily due to the low performance heads on the base crate motor.

Durability is good. I have had the computer wet several times and never had a problem. I have replaced the TPS and injectors once but that I think that was due to a spike in my electrical.

My buddy has been runnin it forever and he finally just replaced the fuel pump.

Recommendations:

1. Run an pressure guage in the supply line. This will answer alot of question when you are trouble shooting.

2. Run the projection on a separate circuit with it's own relay. It is sensitive to variations.

3. Run the closed loop system.

4. Bring spare parts unless you run with other guys with the same setup.

Seems like alot of work but nothing is nicer than being able to idle pointing straight up at the sky.

Thats all I know (not much)