http://www.rusty.stangnet.com/images/4_of_8.jpg


thanks for any help in advance.

does the crank move? is it just all gunked up? i would say take it to a engine shop and have it hot tanked/soaked in solvent/ whatever they do now.

Originally posted by Brad
does the crank move? is it just all gunked up? i would say take it to a engine shop and have it hot tanked/soaked in solvent/ whatever they do now.

any idea on what that would cost? im little low on the budget side, but i know this despretly needs to be done.

you can usually get a V-8 done at the machine shop here in town for under 200 bucks. that includes everything but assembly. you wont know until you get it cleaned measured ,magnafluxed and so on. good luck.

How long has it been sitting since running? How long has it been apart?? Sitting outside for awhile?? How many miles??

The longer for all of the above, the more $$ you're looking at.

GT,

it doesn't look too bad.. You'll need to do some work yourself
if you want to save money.

here's the deal before you start:

you'll need to try and get that rust out of the cylinders first.

try a scrotchbrite pad and wd40. don't scrub up and down, but
scrub in a circular motion. don't try to move the pistons yet.

(BTW, you should be doing all this work on an engine stand
that can be rotated so the motor can be turned upside down)

after treating all the cylinders to the wd/scrotchbrite treatment,
turn the whole engine upside down and use a bunch of that wd40
to spray-out the cylinder bores to remove the "crud".
next, turn the motor upright again, and proceed to the next step:
use a good penetrating oil like "Marvel Mystery Oil" or you
can also use regular ole' ATF tranny fluid. pour enough ATF into
each cylinder bore to cover the pistons. (yeah, I know, some of
the pistons are at the top) but do what you can.

let this whole thing sit for a couple of days. (ALL THIS WORK IS
BEING DONE INSIDE, NOT OUTSIDE NOW)

next step, remove the oilpan, then the front balancer, then the front timing chain cover.

after the oil has penetrated to the piston rings, and since you did
a "real good job" of cleaning the cilnder bores "THOROUGHLY",

it shouldn't be too hard to try and turn the motor over by hand
using a screw-driver on the flexplate/flywheel teeth.

If you can turn the motor over, then you can remove the pistons
(unless the motor has alot of "ridge" left in the top of the cylinder
bores. cylinder "ridge" is what is left of the original-sized bore
of the motor when it was new. excessive "ridge" will have to be
removed prior to trying to removing the piston/rod assemblies.
If your motor has more than .015 of ridge, you'll need to borrow
or rent a "ridge-remover" tool from an engine shop. I wouldn't
buy one since they cost about 80 bucks, unless you'll use it again
more..

so, now ya got the ridge part covered, you can remove the rod
caps , and gently push the piston out of the cylinder. be carefull
and don't scratch the crank journals when doing this.
after you've removed and marked what piston/rod/rod bearing
cap came from which cylinder bore, you can now remove the
main bearing caps and then the crankshaft.

pull the cam out after the timing chain and cam-sprocket is removed.


Of course, all of this is only required if you want to actually
use this motor for your build-up. start looking online for "engine
rebuild" kits for your parts. try and get recommendations from
your local buddies on reputable engine machine shops. They can
either make or break your intentions on building a reliable motor.

use judgement in purchasing parts. don't skimp on quality parts
like cheap pistons, bearings and such only to go out and buy
a "really-neato" powder-coated intake manifold or something.....

--Keep the progress report coming..... gee, I kinda feel like a
dad helping his son build his first motor.....


--Sherpa I build my first when I was 15.. it lasted all of about
3 months.....hehehe... but the next motor after that I had a real
good mentor.... and that motor put out alot of ponies, and ran
for over 125k..... and those were hard-miles....



after

From the looks of it it's savable but you will need new piston head and some other stuff pretty much a rebuild on the top end.