'94 NAS D-90 3.9 that's early enough that it doesn't have the presta valve on the fuel rail. Any thoughts on how to get a gauge mounted that I can monitor in the cab beyond either putting another rail on it or mounting the sender way down at the filter?

Thanks,

TB

i'm not sure there's much value in having one rigged up all the time . . . .anyways - the biggest challenge is finding a good T-fitting to run the guage in-line. I bought one of the NAPA guages that came with an assortment of NPT fittings, smaller hoses, and the brass "T" block, and then picked up an 8ft section of some of their better fuel line.

i have the threaded filter on the rangie, and just went down to Home Depot with a spare one and pieced together the right fittings to rig up a NAPA gauge.

with the longer section of hose you can then run the guage up into the cab and take the truck for a spin to get an accurate reading.

Do you really need to spend $150-200 to view your fuel pressure all the time?


http://www.autometer.com/hp/2003_catalog/street_performance/street_performance_art/2663_s.jpg

In case you were planning on a mechanical gauge there illegal in a closed passenger compartment.

$150-200? Is that for an isolated gauge? Acceptable mechanical gauges are available at Granger for $6-$7, however, they are not reliable if left under pressure for lengthy periods of time, but for occasional testing, fine. For longer term, I need to find a better gauge, sadly, these are US Gauge and made in China(?). But then again, why do we need long term fuel pressure monitoring, it either runs or not.

If on the other hand, you have your heart set on an electric gauge and don't want to run the wire all the way (on a 90?:flipoff2: ) to the fuel filter, you are going to be stuck fabricating a fitting to go between the line and the fuel rail. I have thought of making such a fitting, but haven't had it together enough to carry a fuel rail to the hydraulic shop, and the first fitting they gave me did not fit! I don't know if the compression fittings is unique (metric, british, etc.) or if the fitting they gave me was. Where's Bill Bettridge when you need him?

Peace,
PT

Originally posted by PTSchram
$150-200? Is that for an isolated gauge? T

Yes, the auto meter gauge in the pic is $175.00 from Summit. The VDO one is 195.00 and the cheaper ones seems to run 140-150.

I have thought of making such a fitting, but haven't had it together enough to carry a fuel rail to the hydraulic shop, and the first fitting they gave me did not fit! I

paul you lazy bastard LOL - splice that shiiaat yourself! the flare tool and NPT fittings are inexpensive.

Yah, it's for diagnostic purposes, getting a semi-frequent stumble under load that is almost certainly not ignition-related. The trick is that I can't replicate it at will, so it's something I'd need to have setup for a bit to monitor. And no, $195 ain't gonna cut it for a gauge, for that I'd just pop a new pump in (with 85K on the original pump I wouldn't be surprised if it's in it's waning years). Electric pickup in the fuel line at the filter would be a good solution, but I'd prefer to get the reading at the fuel rail for accuracy's sake. Any other ideas? Maybe it's time to go get that Caddy pump and just replace it . . .

When I turned a wrench for a living we hooked up a temp gauges all the time. We ran the hose out of the engine compartment to the windshield and the wiper held the gauge to the glass.

after hooking up my gauge i discovered my pressure was only at 7 PSI running down the road on a new filter (well, running is a relative term). if you haven't checked the filter definitely do. lots of people forget to include the fuel filter in their regular maint. and needlessly accelerate the demise of the stock pump due to the back pressure.

i think i paid about $40 for the better gauge and all the fittings after it was all said and done.

Filter has about 500 miles on it, and the fuel pump connections all *seem* to be good, but I really need to either pull the tank or cut an access hole to make sure.

Anyone know when the fuel rails started getting the valve?

Originally posted by ABrooks
Electric pickup in the fuel line at the filter would be a good solution, but I'd prefer to get the reading at the fuel rail for accuracy's sake. Maybe it's time to go get that Caddy pump and just replace it . . .

Accuracy sake? The laws dealing with partial pressures (and the Ideal gas law) state that pressures will be equal within the system... Really, all we are looking for is pressure greater than ~20-30 psig...

There are less expensive pumps than the caddy pump, keep shopping.

I'd start chopping holes and replacing the pump, although, it is just as likely to be a relay, or other wiring problem. Might even be more likely-we are discussing Rovers here!

As for when they began using the rails with the fitting, it is variable, like everything else with Rover.

As for you Searover, it is Cheap Bastard, not Lazy! To you, make it MR. Cheap Bastard!;) The fittings aren't flared, but mating compression. As a result, one needs a male on one end and female on the other, not exactly a common fitting that can be bought at Home Depot... (what may appear to be flaming was intended as good natured ribbing and no offense should be taken).

Peace,
PT

Hmmm, if I only had a web site where I sold parts that weren't actually in Rover boxes but worked, and if I sold them on the cheap, I could probably make some money on that cheaper pump . . .:flipoff2:

Good thought on the relays, I'll double check all the connections, though the relays themselves are new(er).

Originally posted by ABrooks
Hmmm, if I only had a web site where I sold parts that weren't actually in Rover boxes but worked, and if I sold them on the cheap, I could probably make some money on that cheaper pump . . .:flipoff2:



That idea is intellectual property, give it back!

I should know, I stole the idea from Dee Cantrell!:flipoff2:

Right Dee?

i missed the part about hooking up directly to the fuel rail; i had meant further upstream in the line.

>> (what may appear to be flaming was intended as good natured ribbing and no offense should be taken). <<

I don't ever want to see drivel like that again . . .mmmmm K? :rolleyes: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

If I do - I'm going to head east with my flare tool and go to work on all your fuel lines (hmmm . . that didn't sound so good . . . did it) :eek: :eek:

dam these stupid emoticon things - so tacky . . . and irresistable

If I were trying to sort out your problem I would hook a meter to the power supply of your fuel pump. A scope type meter (Vantage, Fluke) would be best to monitor the amp draw fluctuations. This is a commom diagonstic procedure for intermittant fuel pump problems. Best part is you do not even have to crack a fuel line until you end up replacing the pump. Even a cheap meter with amp draw functions may find your problem. A voltage drop test would find relay or ground problems in the circuit as well.

Learn some new tricks old dogs.

Jim Pendleton

Originally posted by pendy
If I were trying to sort out your problem I would hook a meter to the power supply of your fuel pump. A scope type meter (Vantage, Fluke) would be best to monitor the amp draw fluctuations. This is a commom diagonstic procedure for intermittant fuel pump problems. Best part is you do not even have to crack a fuel line until you end up replacing the pump. Even a cheap meter with amp draw functions may find your problem. A voltage drop test would find relay or ground problems in the circuit as well.

Learn some new tricks old dogs.

Jim Pendleton

Gee, my oscilloscope function on my laptop does this... (I wonder if the Rovacom can as well-it ought to!)

Maybe you need to buy a real computer (and digi camera)!:flipoff2:

Also, please notice it was I who suggested looking at the electrical side of things:flipoff2:

Tony,

Here's what I'd do for a CB diagnostic tool: get a mechanical gauge with a couple of feet of fuel hose. I mounted my gauge right next to the fuel press regulator. But you can mount the gauge on a two foot hose then run the hose through the hood and place the gauge near the wiper or something. Try to place it so that you can see it easily. You can put the whole thing away under the hood when not in use. You will need to cut into the fuel line *before* the regulator and insert a brass T piece. The whole cost should be less than $20.

Send me an email if you wanna see some pics to get some idea.

Ali