In conjunction with my forseen head-gasket repair, I'm getting ready to do some other 'upgrades'.

One of them is the timing gear/chain, one of the others that has been suggested is do replace the cam/lifters.

I have had decent performance out of the stock cam, but was wondering if anyone else has opinions or experience with a Crane cam in a Rover.

Here's a link to their page showing specs:

Crane Rover Cams (http://www.cranecams.com/master/apps/rover.htm)

Specifically I was thinking of the number 3 cam, part no. 900571.

Seems to offer a fair performance upgrade, but still being able to run on pump gas.

Looking for some ideas or other options.

Thanks!

EDIT: It says that these are for use on 'non emissions compliant vehicles'. Is that just some legal speak to cover their asses, or will it really mess up the computer that much? I have an option to re-title my vehicles in a non-emissions area so-to-speak if I have to.

I have "heard" a few complaints about the Crane cams...specifically, lobes going flat (which is odd since the Rover valve train isn't exactly pushing heavy spring pressures).

How about www.aluminumv8.com ?

Give him a call and ask what they recommend in a Crower cam, in consideration of your engine displacement and intended use, and inquire if they recommend a bump in CR (which generally should accompany an increase in duration).

Maybe you've already checked the RPi site, but this page might be interesting if you're upgrading your camshaft.

http://www.rpiv8.com/engine-6a.htm

check the D90 list archieves, Brendon Loveday has a Crane I believe. It has been discussed by some with 1st hand info.

Tis

I had a Crane. It lasted about 25k until the "upgraded lifter" wore completely thru and then I couldn't deny that I had a serious problem. I did the proper break-in as specified. I was never really impressed with them, in terms of power. I have had two, one in a 3.5 and another in a 4.2. On my third cam install (second one in 4.2 after failure) I went with the Crower. I can say that it makes more power than before and comes on real strong at the 3800 RPM mark. Makes for a good passing gear and will pull hard until 5,000 RPM (at 5k it sounds really pissed off and mean :D , especially with the 2-chamber Flowmaster exhaust!)
I'd call up the guy at Aluminum V8, the place Die lucas posted the link to, and just ask him what he recommends. That's what I did.
Also, something to keep in mind: Does your Rover have knock sensors? I'm not sure when they started adding these (GEMS?) but, of you have them and you use an aggressive cam it will piss these things off and cause timing issues.

I read the previous thread regarding the Crane cams, and the problems, (especially your dissatisfaction UPOVR), and was thinking I'd call the aluminumv8.com guys.

You're pretty happy with your Crower cam huh? Did you use new lifters too?

Do you remember a price for the cam/lifters? I know that the Crane was going to run me about $250 for both cam/lifters. Just wondering how the Crower compares in price.

I'm heavily leaning towards Crower now definitely, especially because of your bad experience with the Crane.

Thanks for chiming in guys.

About the same Mike.

www.aluminumv8.com has the Crower cam for $160 and the lifters for $80, I believe. So you are looking at the same kinda money.

I think the cam from aluminumv8.com ran about $170 to my door here in Tejas. ALWAYS use new lifters. You should be able to get those at a local engine machine shop...just ask for 3.5L buick v8 lifters. I think they'll fit other buick v8's also (Buick 300 ci?). those will run you about $40.00 A far cry from the $16 each you'll see in Rover mail order catalogs and around $20+ at the dealer. A local machine shop parts guy once told me that there is only 3 major manufactures of lifters in the US and a lot of the performance market lifters are reboxed. I can't tell a difference visually between the two.

I have had very good luck with ISKY camshafts. And their antipump up lifters. These lifters prevent combustion pressure loss off high RPM, due to open valves. The camshaft quality is good and reliable.

I really want to warn you to inspect the cam bearings well before replacing the camshaft. Especially the flywheel end of the block. Loss of oil pressure here can wreak havoc on the upper end of the engine.

Some testing during the teardown of the engine could prevent rework as well. Remove the upper plenum, valve covers and rockershafts. Use a compression tester with the valve stem removed to supply shop air to the individual cylinders. This will locate a bad headgasket, dropped liner, leaking piston rings, stuck open valves, cracked block, cracked head. Have the radiator cap open to watch for leakage.

JP

Pendy...good suggestions! I'm getting all my ducks in a row and archiving all of the 'suggestions'.

The leak-down test is the first time I've ever heard of that.

Thanks man!

Originally posted by pendy
I have had very good luck with ISKY camshafts.

I really want to warn you to inspect the cam bearings well before replacing the camshaft. Especially the flywheel end of the block. Loss of oil pressure here can wreak havoc on the upper end of the engine.

Some testing during the teardown of the engine could prevent rework as well. Remove the upper plenum, valve covers and rockershafts. Use a compression tester with the valve stem removed to supply shop air to the individual cylinders. This will locate a bad headgasket, dropped liner, leaking piston rings, stuck open valves, cracked block, cracked head. Have the radiator cap open to watch for leakage.

JP

1: I have also had GREAT lucky with Isky cams and other valve train parts-they make a killer adjustable push rod. Used to be, you could talk to "The Old Man" himself-is Ed still alive?

2: Loss of oil pressure from worn camshaft bearings WILL remove those pretty new lobes you just put in. BTDT, spent way too many hours and $ fixing the damage. In a high mileage vehicle, it is barely worth it to throw in a new cam without new cam bearings, too much of a crap shoot for me. By that point, you might as well do the job right.

3: Pendy-thanx, I just learned something. See, I can be taught!

Peace,
PT

Why talk to Ed when you get to talk to Inga? Some sexy swedish type answers the phone when I call. And it is not a 900 number.

I know you are eachable its the alzheimers us guys have trouble with.

Yes I agree new cam bearings are good.

Inga goood.
JP

Slade,

I've heard that Crane cams aren't all that hot for low end torque. Few of the LR 4.0 engines that I know are real winders! Meaning, you gotta wind them up to get the torque. I have the RP4 camshaft from RPI but the engine isn't in my RR yet. *Supposedly* this has a nice low end torque for slush boxes. I bought Crane lifters for cheap. Don't forget to use Cloys duplex timing set and ARP stud kits for head stufs and bearings if you really want to go topknotch. Hey, it's only money!

Good luck.

Ali