I JUST BOUGHT A GM 4.3 TBI WITH 700R4/NP 231 CASES AND WOULD LIKE TO LINK TO STOCK T-CASE, DOES ANY HAVE PICTURES OF THIS JOINT AND/OR KNOW IF IS FEASIBLE TO PLACE THEM WITHOT MOVING BACK SUZUKI'S T-CASE?:)

IT CAN NEVER HAPPEN. THE STOCK T-CASE WILL SHATER WITH THAT MUCH POWER, AND IT WILL HAVE TO BE MOVED BACK.

YOU THINK IS FEASIBLE TO INSTAL 4.3/700R4/NP 231 WITHOUT MAKE REAR DRIVESHAFT SHORTER AND KEEPING REAR AXLE IN STOCK POSSITION?

DOES CANYON KRAWLERS HAVE A WEB PAGE?

JAKE

MY IDEA IS TO RUN 35 USING STRONGER AXLES. DOU YOU RECOMEND ME TO SWAP IN MY JUST BOUGHT 4.3 OR SELL IT AND BUY A SUZUKI 2.0?


DOES V6 4.3 REALLY CHANGE SAMURAI BEHAIVOR AND OFF ROAD CAPABILITIES? DOES THE EXTRA WEIGH AFECT HIS ADVANTAGES?

Just bolt in a 1.6L and be happy. If you want a V6...buy a Jeep newbie:flipoff2: Welcome, Try the search on this subject a few of these guys have a 4.3.

I AM CURRENTLY RUNNING A 1.6 AND THE DIFFERENCE IS NOT SO BIG. I AM LOOKNG FOR BETTER PERFORMANCE IN ALL TERRAINS AND BETTER TORQUE.

Forget about the stock T-case. You will be relocating the axles to fit this drivetrain in. Have a look into an adapter to conect a D18 t-case to the 700R4.

What is your budget?

What fabrication skills do you have?

Did the 4.3 come with harness and computer?

What axles do you plan on running?

Welcome
:flipoff2:
Newbie

REGARDING T CASE WELL NOTED AND THANKS.

I AM A LITTLE CONCERN ABOUT THE LENGH OF REAR DRIVESHAFT IF I HAVE TO MOVE BACK THE T CASE, I DON'T THINK SO I CAN MOVE BACK REAR AXLE WITHOUT MAJOR SHETT METAL CUTTING. HOW YOU THINK I HAVE TO DO?

MY BUJGET IS NOT SO HIGH, I WOULD NOT LIKE TO AFFORD A USD 600 ADAPTER. BUT A UNDERSTAND THIS IS NOT A CHEAP MOD.

ENGINE COMES WITH INJECTION, WIRE HARNESS, COMPUTER AND TRANNY SHIFTER.

MY CURRENT IDEA IS TO RUN NP231 WITH TOYOTA AXLES. TO DO IT, I HAVE TO MOVE LEFT FRONT DIFF. I HAVE READY TO BUY A COUPLE OF TOYOTA PU HOUSINGS AND 3rd MEMBERS AND FRONT AND REAR TOYOTA LC AXLES. LC, ARE TOO BIG TO PLACE UNDER SAMY AND I LIKE TO KEEP PU ONES.
INITIAL IDEA WAS TO KEEP SUZUKI TCASE AND MOVING RIGHT REAR DIFF USING LC AXLES.

I DO NOT HAVE ANY FABRICATION SKILL PROBLEM, I MADE BY MY SELF CURRENT SPOA, Q-ELLIPTIC, ETC. AND FORTUNATELLY A HAVE A PLACE WERE WORK WITH NEEDED TOOLS

I REALLY APRETIATE YOUR ASSIST.

Have a look into the D18. It alows the rear output to be 5" lower than a cented rear diff.

quit yelling ya newbie :flipoff2:

AND WHAT ABOUT TO KEEP NP 231? IT SHULD BE STRONGER THAN STOCK ONE. ARE THIS SETUP MUCH LONGER THAT STOCK DEVICES?

(Quit yelling = Take the caps-lock off already...)

The NP231 is either a 2.62 or 2.72 to 1 ratio, AFAIK. In a Zuk, the 4.3 requires either Toy or D44 axles to be relaible when gassed. I would expect to break to occasinal axle joint with Toy stuff.

The 4.3 will pose size/heat problems in general. You can put one into a Zuk, but it's at the upper limit of physical size for the bay, radiator requirements, axles, trannys, tranfers, and so on, I think.

Most guys who switch to another engine around here will go lower (tons lower) on the gears, too. As in, dual toyota cases, a 5 or 6:1 transfer case, or the like. No matter how much HP you run, it still takes low gears if you wanna crawl up stuff.

My advice is to click the SEARCH button at the top-right, and run a search on vortec V6, 4.3, or something like that (make sure to run it in just the sammy section at first, although the jeep and toy sections will have info on mating it to those drivetrains) then spend a while reading what other people have actually done, not just what they tell you might possibly work in this thread.

Remember, even if someone denies caring about it, grammar, manners (no caps-lock unless you MEAN to be yelling, etc.), and just plain saying please make an impression. Someone whose done their research will get a lot better responses than someone who barges in asking a generic question we've heard 100 times before. Not accusing you of any of this, but it helps to know the ropes.

Oh yeah, :flipoff2: WELCOME THE NEWBIE! :flipoff2:

(Notice the little face is smiling. Don't take it seriously. We all got that.)

[i]Originally posted by Yota_San [B]



"Americans are benevolently ignorant about Canada, while Canadians are malevolently well-informed about the United States". - J. Bartlett Brebner
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"Americans are like the big brother you love, but make your life miserable by constant bullying, brag about how they can do everything better than you, and then beat you up if you win a chess game against them". - L.B. Smith


:flipoff2:

The 700r4 / np 231 combo is too long even with a slip yoke eliminator kit on it. I am putting the 4.3 mated to 700r4 to a dana 300 (which is pretty damn short) and I'm having trouble fitting it in. So far I'm moving the motor / tranny / t-case ahead an inch (Tubed front end is going to give me a little extra space) and moving the diff back a couple of inches. I've also made a completely custom frame to do this (yes pictures soon don't worry!). Not necessary with a tbi or non vortec but definately with a new vortec.

If you want to keep the 231 (slip yoke eliminator will set you back a couple bills USD) then extend your wheel base. BTW front the output is on the wrong side for toys or waggy's. Think about using a diff (dana 30) out of a newer Heep (TJ/Xj/ZJ/and some yj's but be careful). Just make sure you use a dana 44 rear and upgrade your shafts in the front to take 297x u-joints. Or you could run a dana 30 out of heep and a 8.8 out of a newer (96) exploder (with disc brakes!) or you could go full width dana 44 front out of a new ram (pre 2002 1500). With the cost of all of that you might just want to think about buying an adapter and picking a different tcase! Check out Novak's adapters they are a little cheaper than advance's and just as good.

Trust me the 4.3 thing ain't cheap but if you want it you've got to pay to play!
Later
Dave
aka Shogunator

In what models & years could I find a dana 18?

Those cases are in Jeeps. Maybe fuel injecting your 1600 would give you enough extra power?:smokin: