I recently bought a rebuilt NV4500 from a local tranny building company that has been in business for 80+ years, is a medium sized company and all employees really seem to know their stuff well. It's been sitting around for months and I hope to start it and run it soon... I was told to put 15W-40 in it instead of the expensive Castrol syntheic gear lube, "officially" from the company and specifically by the guy who rebuilt my tranny (also really knows his stuff) and he says the syn oil is a waste of money. That he has seen dozens of NV4500s with bad synchros (the infamous NV4500 synchros are plastic/kevlar, which is why you have to run the syth stuff anyways), and he has torn apart some with 15W-40. He also seems to tear down and rebuild a NV4500 about once a week... Good news is I have a 24K/2 year warantee best I could find, and it is not effected if I use the 15W-40 in fact encouraged. And 15W-40 is about $8 verus $100. They were, however, clear that I use this additive (I can't remember what it's called). Here is actually a photo of "the shade tree mechanic (http://www.shadetreemechanic.com/tdr%20detail_guy.htm)" ironically enough adding the same additive but to the proper synthic oil which is about $20 a quart...

http://www.shadetreemechanic.com/images/TDR%20mixing%20LubeGard.JPG

And I was told it would do the trick. What do you guys think?

Also, I've heard there are some bling brass NV4500 synchros that someone is making but I haven't heard much about them and the tranny shop hasn't heard of them either. Also people will really rip on the NV4500 because of the plastic/kevlar synchros, I would be interested to hear people's opinions and experiences.

And would the synthetic oil be needed if running brass? -- (probably not, right?)

If I remember correctly, Jefe's web site had a whole dialog on the subject of the benefit to using the expensive stuff (this was a couple of years ago).

I like the idea of being able to run regular dino oil, especially if someone who sees the insides of them regularly swears by it.

I rebuilt my 4500 myself.



































Then I rebuilt it again, because I took someone's advice and just ran regular gear oil in it, the synchros burnt up....fast. BTW the synchros are "fibrous" they do not look like plastic fiber nor kevlar and I've never read in any literature that they are plastic/kevlar, but in either case I highly recommend using the NV suggested synthetic. If I had it would have saved me money in the long run.

Originally posted by Charly
I rebuilt my 4500 myself.


Then I rebuilt it again, because I took someone's advice and just ran regular gear oil in it, the synchros burnt up....fast. BTW the synchros are "fibrous" they do not look like plastic fiber nor kevlar and I've never read in any literature that they are plastic/kevlar, but in either case I highly recommend using the NV suggested synthetic. If I had it would have saved me money in the long run.

How hard of a rebuild was it?

Originally posted by dieselcruiserhead
They were, however, clear that I use this additive (I can't remember what it's called). Here is actually a photo of "the shade tree mechanic (http://www.shadetreemechanic.com/tdr%20detail_guy.htm)" ironically enough adding the same additive but to the proper synthic oil which is about $20 a quart...


can you ask "Sam" what that additive is and post it?

It's not a hard rebuild at all actually. No different really than other manual transmissions. The first rebuild was a full one too...replaced every bearing, even on the countershaft, every synchro, the mainshaft (I have a Dodge 23 spline mainshaft in an early 6.34:1 Chevy 4500), the input shaft and the tailhousing. The only things original are the gears themselves, the countershaft, the case and the shift cover, it even has a custom shifter rod.

The only unique part of the rebuild is the spanner nut that holds on fifth gear. You need the proper spanner wrench (and shaft holder thingy) to remove it easily and then torque it properly. I borrowed a wrench from a local Chrysler dealer. They seemed to have no problem with me borrowing it (left a deposit equal to the purchase amount), in fact they were interested that I was willing to rebuild it myself.

I found GM dealers had the better price on the proper oil though.

I may be selling it soon though, don't need the OD any longer.

It's a lubeguard something. When I'm down there again today I'll check on the specifics. I have leard lots of bad things about running full weight dyno. But topic here is 15W-40 ;)

Also it was my conclusion that they were plastic/kevlar, mostly because all the rednecks (mostly here on PBB) call them "those dayum plastic synchros" and I have looked at them and assumed they were plastic with some sort of kevlar coating. I actually didn't even ask.... ..but good to know :cool:

You can purchase a gallon on Syntorq at Standard Transmission in Ft. Worth, Texas for about 68.00 a gallon. I would not put anything, but syntorq in an NV4500.

And there is also a sweet website out there that compares the heat and lubrication of different sythetic gear oils in a NV4500 and the conclusion is also that the castrol OEM stuff is the best. I am somewhat expecting the idea to get shot down :skull:

Yeah, I did buy a gallon from Standard transmission, comes in a plastic wrapped unmarked milk jug...lol.

But I found it at a local GM dealer for the same cost, or less actually.

I've seen that site too. I should have just heeded the advice in the first place.

Originally posted by Charly
Yeah, I did buy a gallon from Standard transmission, comes in a plastic wrapped unmarked milk jug...lol.

But I found it at a local GM dealer for the same cost, or less actually.

I've seen that site too. I should have just heeded the advice in the first place.

It comes in a plastic gallon because they buy it buy the large 55 gallon drums. GM stuff is the same and if it is cheaper, I'd buy that.

It seems to go for about $20 a quart at most dealers. I just called my local GM dealer and asked, $20. I told him I could get it for $15 a quart and he said he could sell it to me for $16.50 so that makes 5 quarts (how many do I really need, 4 or 5?) for about $82 + tax. Not too bad IMO!

Originally posted by Dan-H


can you ask "Sam" what that additive is and post it?

I think Shade Tree Mechanic is/was a TV show...?

stuff in the yellow bottle:

http://www.lubegard.com/automotive/gear_fluid_supp.html

Originally posted by fj40charles


It comes in a plastic gallon because they buy it buy the large 55 gallon drums. GM stuff is the same and if it is cheaper, I'd buy that.

I know that's how they obtain it.....it's just that coming in a milk jug they could easily put anything in there(not that I am saying they would/did...just weird to get stuff like that in this day and age). Luckily I had smelled the real stuff before and it smelled the same....very unique smell.

The Chevy dealer by me had it for about $15/quart. Chrysler wanted something like $24.

The tranny only needs 4 quarts.

I just wish they made a lube that would stop the tranny from sounding like 10# of nuts ans bolts in a cloths dryer. :mad:


beerman

I'll second that.

I just bought some Castrol SynTorq LT from Standard trans for 58 a gallon.

I had been using a Redline product, and it was OK, but the consensus seems to be that the SynTorq works much better.

Andy

Man a would not run that cheap shit. My little brother run's with a bunch of guys that race diesel's. And can tear up a nv4500 quick. I'm running one in my 1/2 ton dodge with a 318 and 37mtr's and 4.56' gears. Me and my brother run the castol syn. stuff.

im running syntorque and brass syncros. i dont know how it drives YET. maybe this weekend i can tell you

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=102102&highlight=nv4500+AND+rebuild

Read this thread, lots of good info

i'm on my 2nd nv4500, i tore the 3rd gear synchro up in the first one from hard/power shifting.:p i've been easier on this one, and so far so good. i too run the reccomended syntorq. what's the big difference between it and any other synthetic gear oil?

Originally posted by mcinfantry
im running syntorque and brass syncros. i dont know how it drives YET. maybe this weekend i can tell you

Lee we're on the same schedule buddy, hopefully this weekend!

run the syntorq and nothing else. We have sold thousands of these transmissions. I have seen alot of people regret they did not follow that advise. funny thing, They all say the same thing "my transmission guy told me to just run regular oil and he's been in business for 40 years"

Originally posted by RufusTheRam
what's the big difference between it and any other synthetic gear oil?

It is a GL-4 rated lube (outdated). GL-4 was superceded by GL-5, which is what the other lubes are. But one of the additives that is in the GL-5 spec is the one that attacks the syncros in the 4500.

Pete