Does the diff on a front axle have to be exactly inline with the tcase front output? Or can it be off like this?
http://imageshack.us/files/noncentereddiff.JPG

If it has to be alligned do you guys just have the donor axle and axle shaft machined to allign the front drive shaft?

if you can hook a drive shaft to each end then it will work. if it is a good bit offset you might get vibes but who cares about vibes....

I would suggest having the d/s modified with c/v joints at both ends and you will not have to worry about vibration or bindings of joints or blowing joints out for that matter. Double c/v would be my best suggestion it should not matter if you are trying to correct the pitch up and down or left to right in my opinion.

Both my front and rear are somewhat offset and have a left to right varriance from the t-case outputs. I have a rear double cardan joint, but just a standard driveshaft on the front. Is the large offset on the rear axle or the front? It kinda looks like fromt he drawing that you may be running an offset AMC20 or offset D44, and my answer then would be don't do it like you have it in the drawing.

Originally posted by mikesimpson
Both my front and rear are somewhat offset and have a left to right varriance from the t-case outputs. I have a rear double cardan joint, but just a standard driveshaft on the front. Is the large offset on the rear axle or the front? It kinda looks like fromt he drawing that you may be running an offset AMC20 or offset D44, and my answer then would be don't do it like you have it in the drawing.



I'm thinking about running a scout II 44 on a sidekick with a 58.5 wms to wms on a sidekick. The sidekick has a passenger side drop but from the pics I have seen of the Scout axle it looks like the drop on the scout is further left than the sidekicks.

My front D44 is more to the center than my D30 use to be, it's about a good 3-4" different, I have no issue with vibrations, or issues on road or offroad.

Walker Evans offset his;)

On the trail you're not going fast enough to worry about vibes. For road speeds, you'll unlock the hubs and there's no issue.

The side to side offset doesnt matter as long as the flanges or yokes are parallel to each other when viewed from above. This gives both joints the same angle, no vibes. You'll be hard pressed to find many rigs with a driveshaft running strait like your concerned about it being.

Remember that the driveshaft doesn't know which way is up or down! Just keep both angles close to the same.

Originally posted by CJeep77
Remember that the driveshaft doesn't know which way is up or down! Just keep both angles close to the same.

Shit I'm an idiot, I never of it this way.

One note about using the front D44 from the Scout: All that I have seen have the U-Bolts on the passenger side integrated into the differential/axle housing. Just something to look out for.

Originally posted by CJeep77
Remember that the driveshaft doesn't know which way is up or down! Just keep both angles close to the same.

That's assuming you are not planning on running a C/V joint. You won't want a CV joint for an offset axle since you can't point the pinion straight at the transfer case.