It looks like the next step to my junk will be a exocage. I am thinking about using 1.75 or 2 inch Erw Tubing. I am going to make it similar to Dan Starcs design but not that much overkill on the roof and windshield. I was going to attach the downbars right to the unibody with either some 1/4 inch plate welded to the frame or C-Channel to add strength. I would also like to tie it into a custom crossmember. So the rack would be tied into the front bumper, and the frame in two spots by the F&R doors. Then I would link it into the crossmember and run custom rocker guards via those two mounts. The rear of the cage would be into the rear bumper and the frame by the leaf hangers. All braced with plate to distrubute the load.

I am going to make a set of tubed doors for the front.

I was also thinking about actually tying the rack into the body on the roof by running some box tubing where the stock roof rack mounts into the roof. And going through the rear quarters directly behind the doors. This would allow me to connect the cage together I would run a tube right behind the back seat and then have to spreaders going the rear hatch area to add rigidity.

I am basically just asking for advice. I know the XJ body flexs a decent amount. Would it be a good idea to mount the cage to the body. I was thinking it is the only way I can really get the truck to be more rigid and stop flexing itself apart especially in the rear. The fiberglass hatch allows alot of movement.



http://www.jeepnorthwest.com/pictures/isabellelake/Dan'sXJb.jpg


Thanks for the suggestions. Happy Kwanzaa :rasta:

that super sick.Looks like the prefect urbin assult vehical

I am right there with you this winter. My friend just bought a tubing bender with 1.5" die set and will let me use it after he build some chit for his Sammy.

I will likely use some parts of that picture in my design. I don't have a roof rack right now and I want one to mount my spare to when I wheel. I am going to make two ovals that will be 1-2" wider than the roof itself. These two ovals will be my rack (each oval will be connected to the other by several 3" sections). This rack will be be tied into tubes that trace the A pillars, d pillars a diaganol brace from the top of the c pillar to the bottom of the D pillar tube. That picture has a B Pillar tube, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to do a b pillar tube and still be able to open the rear doors. I am NOT willing to lose access to my backseat.

I have a sketch of my plans and will scan it in and post it.

SeanP

sean, I'm thinking of running the b pillar inside, this is the only one that won't take up valuable space or get in the way.

Brent, are you thinking of just running a b-pillar hoop and tieing it into the floor?

SeanP

I was thinking about going through the floor to the rock sliders, and through the roof to attach to the tube going allong the drip rail. then across the two just below the head liner.

Looks like the same guy that rolled over in front of me on Moab rim 2 years ago. His cage did a good job of protecting the rig. A new windshield and he was good to go.

Look closly and you can see some cool shackle mounts on the bottom of the cage. These shackles made a great point for me to pull on to flip him back over.

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/trips/moab2000/2788.jpg

Originally posted by Brent Orton
I was thinking about going through the floor to the rock sliders, and through the roof to attach to the tube going allong the drip rail. then across the two just below the head liner.

Yeah, I was thinking of doing the same. Just concerned about my ability to get it all to seal up right and not let rain in.

Why don't you guinea pig this for us ;)

SeanP

Originally posted by SeanP


Yeah, I was thinking of doing the same. Just concerned about my ability to get it all to seal up right and not let rain in.

Why don't you guinea pig this for us ;)

SeanP
I was planning on it. another thing I noticed when choppin the top, there is a pocket big enough for a 1.5" tube inside the top corner just inside of the drip rail, and below and to the outside of the factory rack. you could slide a tube in there, but may look funny coming through the a pillar.

cool, a "stealth" roll bar:D

It looks like that solves my problem. Not only will the rear doors still be functional but I can brace the whole roof to the frame. The I can make bar go across on the top and on the bottom. In addition I can make a bar go across and mount the 4pt seatbelts on it. Theres tons of room there and should be a huge gain in rigidity. I'll use plates on the roof and seal it up with silicone.:rasta:

My Gawd, I'm feeling heavy and bloated with all this talk of .120 wall tubing. My rig already weighs 4,000 pounds, I ain't puttin another ounce on it. ;)

I'm working on designing the through the firewall cage portion now, it's all gonna be internal and very stealthy, don't want to lose my nice XJ body lines. :rolleyes:

ANDY