Well, the YJ is finally off jackstands! Of course there is still plenty to be done. The Front coilovers are too short, so I'm replacing them with Fox air shox, which will require a new hoop. At least the rear is done. Take a look and critique away!

http://full-tilt4x4.com/images/YJ_side1.jpg

http://full-tilt4x4.com/images/YJ_front1.jpg

Got the steering mocked up, I got some adjustments to make before I burn everything in & bolt it up. That's the stock panhard bar in the pic, a new mount & bar are in the works.

http://full-tilt4x4.com/images/YJ_corner1.jpg

I'm thinking I shouldn't have used the stock spring hanger as a link mounting point. The front control arms are pretty short. The 3rd link comes in from the framerail like I/ I. Is this gonna cause any problems?

The rear:

http://www.full-tilt4x4.com/images/jeep_005-1.jpg

http://www.full-tilt4x4.com/images/YJ02-1.jpg

Looking Awesome!!!!!!!!

Keep the Pics coming!

those control arm angles are just plain crazy! :eek:

and...

why are the 1/4 elip packs mounted on a swivel? that's gonna destroy that bumpstop real fast

also, I can't see your rear control arm angles real well in that pic, but they look bad as well... what is your antisquat percentage? where is your instant center, roll center, roll axis, etc?

Bootyfabulous

Stock Front spring hangers for control arms? Looks like stock shock mounts for the coilovers I'd be scared to ride in that death trap :eek:

Got :massey: lift?

Just the fact that you left the shackles and trac bar hanging there in your way says alot about how you work on things. Where to start on this one. As has already been said, control arms are fawked. Way too short and the angles are crazy. There is a reason TJ owners spend big bucks on long arm kits, you'll find out why the first time you lift a tire while turning. With it being that tall, I wouldnt be suprised if that jacking throws you on your lid. Who buys coil overs without knowing how long they need to be? Who the hell tries to link a suspension without building proper mounting points?

Seems this isnt the first bootyfab weve seen outa aggie town.

Sorry to be so harsh (I'm not really, it just seemed the polite thing to say) but its back to the drawing board with this one (was it even planned beforehand).

Dibs on those coilovers. How much travel are they?

Your setup has a few things that I have seen done in the past that did not work so well.

1st- the use of your stock spring hangers was just a bad idea for that much lift. What's the angle on them, like 30*? That thing will hop like a mutha.

2nd - the small heims on the axle side of your shackles on the 1/4e setup. from the pic it's even hard to tell if you have misalignment bushings on there to give them extra room to move, but I'll be amazed if those make it more than a few hard rides. When the rear drops and twists up, those heims are gonna see some serious stress. A friend used small heims like that and bent the living crap out of them on the first run. He reworked it to use johnny joints and better brackets.

3rd - you plan on gusseting that front upper axle mount, right?

4th - will the front upper link interfere with behind the knuckle steering? maybe it's the axle, but on compression it looks like they'd kiss.

You aren't gonna like the drop away 1/4 pack.
The heims look skinny.
Probably aren't gonna like the shorty arms up front.

That said, get it together, and wheel it. Then make changes as mentioned up above, you will see why they are saying it.

I cant add any value to the design of the suspension but would like to know where you got those bump stops.

That is just a mess, move the lower brackets on the rear axle to the axle center line. Then move the lower link frame mount to the bottom of the frame in about 6" from the frame rails. Move the entire rear axle back about 8". Move the axle end of the rear upper links up 1". The front just can it and start over. The rubicon express long arm front link set up is not a bad design to copy. Get a rear track bar for the front axle. Take about 2-3" out of the suspension lift. Fix the leaf packs in the rear solidly at the frame, so there is no unrestricted droop.


Run your numbers through the 4 link calculator to see what I'm talking about.

Thanks for all the suggestions. First off, the front was put together quickly and has some problems. I will make the front arms longer. I tried to finish it during the x-mas break. Obviously a bad Idea.

BrettM - IC(x)=60, IC(z)=29, 115% AS, RC 29.43. for the rear

JasonR - It's not stock shock mounts for the coilovers. See how everyone else made suggestions along with their criticism?:flipoff2:

kwrangln - yes it was planned beforehand. Sorry I didn't clean up everything for the pics:flipoff2:. I admit I fawked up on the coilovers & tried to get off easy by using the spring hangars. Back to the drawing board...

JohnnyJ - Thanks for the advice. The heims are 3/4 shank & 3/4 bore. Should I go bigger?

I'm with lame. Put it together and run it as is. Change things to get it to preform the way you want and talior the suspension to your driving style and or terrain.

There is no better teacher than experience itself...............:)

Very :massey:
Why are your rear springs sitting on the bumpstops. Do you even realize what you did:confused:. There are a few things that you should reconsider(see everything mentioned above). But try to plan a little better and get it together. What are you goin to do to fix the rear srpings, i just cant imagine you driving that thing with the rear bumpstops that way.:shaking:

Originally posted by 4link95yj
BrettM - IC(x)=60, IC(z)=29, 115% AS, RC 29.43. for the rear

JohnnyJ - Thanks for the advice. The heims are 3/4 shank & 3/4 bore. Should I go bigger?

What COG did you use for the RC calc's? 115% AS with those links seems amazingly low.

I'm sure a lot will depend on the quality of the joint. It might be fine if you add some misalignment bushings, but even then I'd wonder how much they side load they can take if you twist up the rear to it's full extent. Especially since you can a lot of droop with since your spring packs are not solid mounted. Like I said, my friend went to johnny joints and that worked fine, they have held up to the abuse over a couple of years.

Here's what he has now:
http://www.thespiderzweb.com/images/jeep/Resized%20101-0177_IMG.JPG

Like others have said, at this stage you are pretty close to being done. You might try running it and see how it does. I would stick with local trips first, though.

The design and calculations made on this ABSOLUTE PERFECTION!!!! Take everything off and start over with a 4-link calculator. Do some research this this is never going to work.

The design and calculations made on this ABSOLUTE PERFECTION!!!! Take everything off and start over with a 4-link calculator. Do some research this this is never going to work.

I would hope they got it figured out within the past 7 years... :shaking:

He he, there should be a "where are they now" thread for these.

you dont need any sort of calculator to tell that this thing will kill whomever decides to strap up and take it over 10mph. My first thought when I read the title and saw the first pic.....PUT IT BACK ON JACKSTANDS