Already did a search, but can't find anything related to my problem. Posted on other Rover boards, but you guys tend to respond quicker and I would prefer the CB method of repair. So here goes...

Installed new rear rotors and pads on my '93 RRC LWB. Everything was fine until the test drive. Now I don't have ABS and have a constant pulsing in the brake pedal every time I apply the brakes. Pedal feels normal otherwise and no lights remaining on the dash.

The only other unusual item is that normally when starting up the Rover, the ABS, ETC, and parking/brake pressure fluid lights would remain on for a period of time. The ABS light remains on and then goes off after the normal above 5 mph, but the other two go out with all the other dash lights. What does that mean and what do you think the problem is with my brakes?

Any suggestions as to what to look for would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Darren

Those ABS sensors have to have a certain 'air gap' to work. What you may have done was unseated the sensors just enough to cause them not to pick up the signal from the ABS ring (inside your hub).

Push those sensors in the hub as far as they can go, don't be afraid to bottom them out on the hub, when the wheel starts to spin it pushes them out to just the right distance.

The pulsing from your brake pedal might be the pads are in crooked, the spring clips might have let the pads move, the chamfer on the pad might be pointed in the wrong direction, or you may have a warped rotor (doubtfull, but possible).

Are your ABS lights on on the dash? If not it's probably the sensor that's unseated.

Get to work and report back.

Oh and welcome newbie!

:flipoff2:

Thanks Michael. I will give that a try and see if that fixes it.

No lights remain on the dash. Just the two that go out sooner than they did just before doing the brake job. Other than the constant pulse in the pedal and no ABS the brakes work fine.

I read your post on how you did your non-ABS system and will consider doing that in the future. Right now I just want to get this thing fixed and back on road.

Thanks again!!

Darren:D

when you say 'constant pulse' you're not talking about the ABS engaging are you?

I'm wondering if you have all of the bolts tight that hold on the rotor?

More than likely you do, also you might have the hub nuts (the big ones with the locking tab washer) on loose, which might cause the wheel to move relative to the caliper?

Hmmm...interesting.

Whenever you step on the brake pedal you can feel a pulse coming up thru it with a clicking sound. It maybe the ABS is trying to engage, but it doesn't. I was able to lock up all four tires on dry pavement and on a snow covered road.

Personally I hate ABS, but I thought all I was doing was a rotor and pad change and it should be fine. Yeah, right!:mad:

If you think of anything else for me to check, let me know. I am still at work right now and will look at your suggestions when I get home. I am leaning towards the sensors, but you never know.

Originally posted by Ronin007
Already did a search, but can't find anything related to my problem. Posted on other Rover boards, but you guys tend to respond quicker and I would prefer the CB method of repair. So here goes...

Installed new rear rotors and pads on my '93 RRC LWB. Everything was fine until the test drive. Now I don't have ABS and have a constant pulsing in the brake pedal every time I apply the brakes. Pedal feels normal otherwise and no lights remaining on the dash.

The only other unusual item is that normally when starting up the Rover, the ABS, ETC, and parking/brake pressure fluid lights would remain on for a period of time. The ABS light remains on and then goes off after the normal above 5 mph, but the other two go out with all the other dash lights. What does that mean and what do you think the problem is with my brakes?

Any suggestions as to what to look for would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Darren

I wish I knew how you guys do this. I have yet to have this problem.

1: If the sensors are inserted too far, they will bind on the exciter ring, destroying the sensor. Pics on request. Some folks say to insert them all the way and then pull them out the width of your screwdriver blade.

2: While I don't necessarily buy into it, some folks claim that the wheel bearings can cause this condition-you my wish to checdk that pre-load again.

Usually, if the lights go out, this indicates the ABS ECU is receiving the appropriate responses to its diagnostic pre-flight check.

Here is where I am now:

Did as Michael suggested and bottomed out the sensors. That got the ABS working and no more pulsation in the pedal, but now the ABS light will not go out and the ETC light comes back on and stays on.:mad: Now what is wrong?? Everything is normal now except I can't get the dash lights to go out.

Suggestions? PTSchram, what is the ABS ECU looking for that is giving me the lights now?

I hope that you didn't destroy a sensor because of my faulty instructions! I haven't had a problem doing it that way, so if you had a problem let me know and I'll send you an ABS sensor for free.

The only time I had those dash lights go on was when I was having problems with my ABS pump. If you disconnect the power supply to the ABS pump and the manifold body it should re-boot your ABS system. If it doesn't then you might want to check on your fluid, see if it's dirty, and if your pump starts whining it may need to be 'rebuilt'.

Hmmm...now I'm feeling guilty.

pull the fuse to the ABS and see if your troubles go away. if so, leave it that way... you said you hated ABS anyways :D

I had disconnected the battery and have not had any codes show up on the ECU. Just the damn lights on the dash won't go away.

Adam, wish it was that simple. From what I understand that will only work on the Disco and not on an RRC. Otherwise I would have done that and be over with it. Correct me if I am wrong as that would solve my problem.

I am going to try to resetting everything again and see what happens. Post anything that you can think of that will help me out.

Darren

I reset the ECU and diconnected the battery again, but once again on test driving the Rover the ABS light stays on and the ETC light comes on after a short period of time. I am going to go search the internet and all my Rover links to see if I can find anything.

If any of you have any ideas at all, please post them as I would like to get the Rover back on the road. Mike, Paul, and Adam thanks for the ideas so far. It got me almost there.

Now if I could just figure out the ABS and ETC light issue......:confused:

Darren

you want a cheap fix buy a roll of electrical tape
tape over light
problem solved
actually did that to a buddy of mine's saab worked great for three years during college and never had to look at the light.

-ben

>> pull the fuse to the ABS and see if your troubles go away. if so, leave it that way... you said you hated ABS anyways


welcome to NO BRAKES! It depends on "which" fuse- there's one that will deactivate the entire system, so be careful doing this. the one i'm talking about here is a 30amp. I haven't taken the time to see which fuse is the one to pull - maybe Way can pipe up since I think he did something similar.

cheers,

isaac

After checking on-line, I found out how, where, and what the codes are for the ABS. For those of you who need them, check out the following link:

www.spanishtrailrovers.com/Tech/Maintain/Diagnosing_ABS/diagnosing_abs.html

Turns out I have a bad rear sensor. Michael I won't ask you for that sensor unless you have one just laying around. That sensor was somewhat stuck to begin with. As Ben suggested I was all set to tape over the lights, but I wanted to make sure that I did not have another problem first.

The plan now is to remove the bulbs and run the Rover as is. I have ABS, but no more ETC. I plan to go non-ABS as things wear out so I might be calling on you Michael if I have questions after revisiting your conversion posts.

Thanks again everyone for your help and input.:D

Darren

Darren - I may be interested in your ETC unit for a little reverse engineering excercise. keep it in mind if you decide to make the switch. I've decided to needlessly spend the extra money and just repair my ABS system. When it's working properly I feel that the powered hydraulics are much stronger than the vacuum assist boosters in early rovers and the Disco systems, fwiw.

SeaRover - I will keep that in mind and thanks for the heads up on the hydraulics vs. vacuum assist. Part of the reason to run the Rover as is for now is that I want to research the conversion first before I make the leap. Too often I see people jump to something and then regret it (like throwing on 37s with 10 splines and stock gearing).

What is your reverse engineering exercise?

Originally posted by SeaRover
When it's working properly I feel that the powered hydraulics are much stronger than the vacuum assist boosters in early rovers and the Disco systems, fwiw.

Do a search for GM Hydroboost and see what you come up with.

I really like the setup I have on the CC, it would work for your series truck too.

EDIT: 007 I might have a sensor laying around...let me check.