I have a chevy fullsize frame and I get a lot of frame flex - which means S-10 body tends to get twisted at flex - I find myself having to constantly tighten body mount bolts.

I was thinking if it would be possible to replace the rubber bushing with some sort of small spring that would accomadate the frame flex - I just don't know what sort of springs I could find to work.

Why not just add a few cross members to your frame. !

I'd look into using valve springs. big ones.
and you'd need 2 per mount. one between the frame and body, and one betweenn the body and hte bolt head.

I am soon going to put on external roll cage - hopefully that will take care of most of it........I was kinda just brain storming the idea - just curious what others thought/knew...

my friend just said something about using valve springs for his body lift. it could work i guess. he said to use once from a semi

Drew

Do your current bushings have a metal sleeve through them so you can torque the bolts firmly against the sleeve ? I've seen some bushing kits without the sleeve and these do loosen.

I've seen older rigs with spring bushings - they look pretty ugly.

I used to use valve springs in my body mounts, it saved me from ripping the body mounts out of the tub, but soon I realized ( after bending my frame:mad: ) that its just a bandaid. You have too much frame flex, throw in a few extra cross members and stiffen the frame up.

I can tell you what some of the guys around here do, but let me set the stage for some of the westerners.

Most of the guys that run hybrids around here rely on the frame flexing. They run mostly stock suspension components (some may run a small, 2"-4", lift spring. Then put on a mini truck cab and hood, which gives plenty of clearance for the tires. This keeps breakage to a minimum, since you have basically stock shaft angles, etc.

With that said, one of the best ways I have seen to mount a cab and still have the frame flex is by mounting just the front two mounts to the frame. In the rear, mount a leaf spring upside down, perpendicular to the frame, between the frame rails and on rubber mounts, just under the rear of the cab. In the center of the upside down spring, where the pin goes, mount the rear of the cab, using a mount that you fabricate on the bottom rear of the cab. Then, to control movement, mount a short set of shocks from the top of the frame rails to the back of the cab somewhere.

I know this sounds uncoventional to some of you, but it works incredibly well. A lot of them can put a front tire 6 feet in the air and leave them all four touching ground.

Originally posted by 350 Samurai
...With that said, one of the best ways I have seen to mount a cab and still have the frame flex is by mounting just the front two mounts to the frame. In the rear, mount a leaf spring upside down, perpendicular to the frame, between the frame rails and on rubber mounts, just under the rear of the cab. In the center of the upside down spring, where the pin goes, mount the rear of the cab, using a mount that you fabricate on the bottom rear of the cab. Then, to control movement, mount a short set of shocks from the top of the frame rails to the back of the cab somewhere.


...now I have to figure spring rates & shock valving / snubbers for my cab suspension too ?????

I like that. Might smooth out the ride and landings. I'm trying to figure out why I shouldn't mount the cab that way ?

Originally posted by Magnum_Willys

I'm trying to figure out why I shouldn't mount the cab that way ?

Might need a long travil slip yoke for the steering shaft :D