i am thinking about takeing my springs to a place in town to have them re arched. one guy in my club said that they will agree on about 2 in of lift. i just need a little bit of lift to keep the tires off the body. is this a good idea? will these springs be really stiff? will i need new shocks or is it ok to run the stock shocks. another option i have is add a leaves. witch is better? i added 2in longer shackles but that didnt help that much.

Either way, re-arch or add-a-leaf, is a stop-gap until you get a new set of springs.

You should try to find a used set of 2.5 or 4" leaf's and do that instead of spending $$ on something that really isn't worh the effort.

I did rearch springs....they also added a leaf, IIRC, the 3rd position, so a nice long one. Add-a-leafs are generally one shoft thick one and they suck, so avoid those. 2" will definitely help...what tire size you running? They will not be significantly stiffer, you may not even notice. When they do it, they will likely open all the spring wraps in the process and disassemble the packs. Request that they leave the spring wraps open and pointing straight up....helps on ride and droop.

you outta figure 1-2 years tops out of a rearch, especially if you wheel it.

stock shocks may still be okay....general rule of thumb is to measure your resting ride height and then assume equal up-down travel from there. SOA suspensions rely on tons of droop, but SUA ;can usually abide by this guess. Remove a shock and measure your extended and compressed travel and see how it compares to your resting height.

I've got a spreadsheet on my tech links to shocks. IMO, I lke DT3000's from Doetsch...nice and soft, and cheap!

im running 32s they rub my rear fenders even when im just turning a corner fast and its getting annoying.

Originally posted by 75CRUISER
im running 32s they rub my rear fenders even when im just turning a corner fast and its getting annoying.

Sawzall cures all.:D

i agree with nolen...look for a 2" or 4" kit. if you can't afford new, look for used (just don't get a rancho lift...they are stiff!).

i did add-a-leafs and my kidneys thanked me when i took those springs out and put in lift springs.

I had a old set of rancho springs on my FJ40 and I did not think they were too stiff untill I added longer shackels that set almost vertical.

Actually, your problem may not be so much the height of the suspension but the width of the tire. 32x11.5 tires on probably an 8" rim are too wide for the rear of the 40 series without fender trimming. I do know guys running 33x9.5 tires (BFG) on stock rims with no rubbing. (IIRC, stock rims are 6.5" wide??) I'd consider a 33x10.5 BFG or Swamper Radial (Lean towards Swamper) and run it on a 7" wide rim with the proper offset. That will tuck in the outer edge of the tire an additional inch, which would eliminate the rubbing....I assume it's rubbing on the inner edge of the outer rear fender sheet metal??

Tell us where the rub is and it will be easier to determine an easy fix....beyond sawzall! ;-)

i have the interco trxus m/t and they measure 32x10. they are on a 16x7 rim.they rub on the very inside of the tub.

The inside, like the inner sidewall of the tire versus the vertical plane of the inside tub?

In that case, it may be you have too much backspacing, ie: 3.75 rather than 3.5 or 3.25 (ideal). I assume you are running those 16" rims on stock 6-bolt axles... You could just install a 1/4" wheel spacer in there, $10 or so from JC Whitney. Ideally, you switch to proper backspacing (new rims), but I've run single spacers from JCW before with no problems.

IMO, adding a lift is not going to solve the problem you describe....if you were rubbing the tread blocks on the horizontal plane of the fenders, then yes, a lift is the answer.

Since I know you've mentioned you have not really offroaded the truck, then I'm also assuming this rubbing occurs during your daily driving??

yes the rubbing is on the inner side wall of the tire.and it rubbs everytime you take a turn. it hits these things that look like braces and i was just going to pound on them w/ a hammer but my dad told me not to.

Originally posted by 75CRUISER
yes the rubbing is on the inner side wall of the tire.and it rubbs everytime you take a turn. it hits these things that look like braces and i was just going to pound on them w/ a hammer but my dad told me not to.

I pounded mine in along time ago but it did not help.
Go to Pep Boys and get some 1/4" spacers and that will cure your problem on the inside but it MAY put you too far out on the uncut fenders.

It is definately worth a try though.

You will need to do this even if you get lift springs.

I re-arched my springs. Yes, it is definately a stop gap measure. Ride is definately stiffer. Biggest problem is that distance from eye to eye is reduced significantly when re-arched. This results in near vertical shackle angles. 1st wheelin' trip out, inverted front shackle. OME anti-inversion shackles have fixed that problem, but the ride is still poor. Only reason I'm keepin' it now is I'm going SOA soon and will replace with stock springs then.

Get the lift springs, forget the re-arch.