Tried this in the Isuzu forum but its pretty dead and this is my DD so i want to fix this shat tonite

1994 Amigo 2.6 4banger
It seemed to be running a little rich (sulfur smell) that and it seemed about time for a new O2 sensor. after removing it (what the hell,people dont believe in anti-size :mad: ) and putting the new "universal" (seemed that way anyway) sensor in and following the directions (same lingth wires,same colors 1 black 2 whites) i put it in and it proceded to run like crap. I thought it was just "re-adjusting" the mixture so i gave it a bit to run.

no change

checked for vacume leaks,no change

swaped the white wires, no change

it will lope in the idle sorta. run smooth and then cut out. run smooth,cut out and then die.
at a higher RPM i can hear it "cut out" once and awile

am i missing something? do something wrong?

HELP

Check for shorts in the wires. And did you use the correct O2 sensor. There are diffrent types and they will send diffrent signals to the computer.

Try using a heated (3 wire) O2 sensor. Heated sensors take a direct 12v feed off the ignition and come off of closed loop faster.

:edit: Re-read that you HAVE a 3 wire. Got the signal and heater wires reversed???

Clogged cat. conv?

A normal O2 sensor is just a switch... it reads High or low, the ECM should pick up an error code if the signal from the o2 is Low for a long period of time or high for a long period of time.

Do this.. clip one side of a digital multi meter to the pos terminal then back probe the O2 while the engine is running.. I think the black wire is going to be your reference wire... your looking for the lead that gives you between 0.1 and 1 volt this is the reference signal from the o2, it should be pretty jumpy but should be around the .5 range. if you not getting a reading or its always high or always low you have an o2 problem, if its seems to be working the problem is elsewhere.

Good Luck!

BTW if the ecm is getting a bad signal from the O2 its just going to revert to the base fuel map and go to Open loop fueling, the the mixture will be off but that is about all, the cutting out and whatnot seems like another issue.

Do you have an EGR? If they stick open the engine will run like total crap at idle but will smooth out as it speeds up. Also if the EGR is sticking there won't be much vacuum. Many times when EGR's stick they won't throw a code. Just a thought. Good luck.

its a 3 wire sensor 1 black (signal) 2 white(heater)

the isuzu had 1 black and 2 white

black to black and whites to whites, then tried swithching whites just in case they where polarity sensitive or some shat.

cat is less than a month old

it will run fine and then "cut out" like someone was fawking with the mixture or unplugging the coil. and then run normal again. it will do this randomly till it finaly stalls

still got the old one, hook it back up and see if infact the problem goes away to at least narrow it down. Maybe return the new one and get another.

Originally posted by JamisonWorkshop
still got the old one, hook it back up and see if infact the problem goes away to at least narrow it down. Maybe return the new one and get another.

The old one is "no longer in a functioning capacity" in other words i had to literaly destroy it to get it out because of the rust. :D
like i said i hate people who dont use anti-sieze.
I think i am going to pull it as i see 2 listings for sensors one is OE one is universal. but i dont see why it would make that much of a diffrence but it is an Isuzu :flipoff2:

btw anyone know off hand what kind of code reader this vehicle uses?