i am working on building a camper/rig hauler out of an old horse trailer that already had living quarters in the front of the trailer. i left the living quarters in tact but i have cut the cover off the back so i am left with a flat bed to haul my cruiser on (it's gonna take more than just that but you get the idea). it'll take alittle work but it should be a nice setup when i am done with it. anyway i just got my cruiser going again and i plulled it up on the deck to do some measureing and get some ideas. i snapped a few pic's and i am wondering if i should move the axles back? the horse trailer seems to be built pretty heavy and the front axle and motor of the cruiser are over the trailer axles so it may be ok but i wanted ask what everyone else thinks. are the axles ok where they are?

sorry for the bad pic's but it is overcast and my flatbed is right in the way.

last one

I think it really depends what the wheight ratio is on the front of the trailer, vs. the rear of the trailer with the cruiser on it.. but Id think it would pull alright.
Scott

Can you say bounce, bounce. I added a 2' + dovetail to the back of my gooseneck (20' total, orig. built that way the wheels should have been moved back but i left them where they were) and i could feel the difference, you got a whole vehicle behind the wheels. Unless you tow with a tractor i think you'll not like it but the only way to know is strap it down and take it around the block.

I would throw on a third axle and add a dovetail.

Originally posted by hoehand
I would throw on a third axle and add a dovetail.

What he said!!

It will tow like crap the way it is unless you add 5,000 lbs to the front of the trailer!! :flipoff2:

Originally posted by odgreen
the only way to know is strap it down and take it around the block.

i wish i would do that. my cruiser is rubbing trailer tires on both sides as it is. there is no way i can tow it now. i am going to put wider axles on it but i sure don't want to mount them just to drive it around the block if i am going to have to move them anyway.

thanks for all the replys. i really doubt i'll add another axle though. i'll move the axles back if anything.

Originally posted by odgreen
Can you say bounce, bounce. I added a 2' + dovetail to the back of my gooseneck (20' total, orig. built that way the wheels should have been moved back but i left them where they were) and i could feel the difference, you got a whole vehicle behind the wheels. Unless you tow with a tractor i think you'll not like it but the only way to know is strap it down and take it around the block.

Basicaly you need to weigh it an find out how much wight you have on the hitch and how much you have on the axles. It looks like you need to move the axles back, but i have no idea how much the front of the trailer weighs. I would not suggest to add a third axle. Tri-axle trailers not turn worth a shit when your in tight areas.
Dewey

Everyone I have talked to about trailers says that the three axle trailer is NOT the way to go. Lots of scrubbing on turns and added weight. I'd take the front axle and move it behind the rear. This is all recycled information to me so take it for what its worth. But, I do like the idea and I hope it works out for you.

sorry for the dumb question but what is "dovetail" that all you guys are suggesting? What do you mean buy this?

Thanks, Phil

sloped ramp made into the trailer usually the last 2-3' of the trailer. Almost every car hauler has one.

Originally posted by TJpwr
what is "dovetail" that all you guys are suggesting?

the 16ft flatbed in the pic has a dove tail.


as for a dove tail on the project trailer as it is it would drag the ground this trailer sits kinda low so a dove tail is out.

as i said i do not plan on having 3 axles because i have hear the same bad things as someoneelse posted about them.

i will add a 1ft long extention to the end of the trailer. actually i'm gonna add 2 because they wil be just wide enough for the tires. one on each side.

i think this week i'll hook it up to my truck so i can see if i can undo the hitch on it with the cruiser on the trailer. this will atleast tell me if i have any tong weight at all. when the pic's were taken i had blocked under the rear to keep the front of the trailer from coming up when i pulled up on it. anyway thanks for all the input. as of now it is sounding like i'll need to move the axles.

Get out the sawsall and make room for the truck to move forward so the front tires are in front of the trailer tires to give it some more tongue weight. You look to be on the rear edge of the trailer anyways.

Originally posted by odgreen
sloped ramp made into the trailer usually the last 2-3' of the trailer. Almost every car hauler has one.

thanks

Phil

i think this week i'll hook it up to my truck so i can see if i can undo the hitch on it with the cruiser on the trailer. this will atleast tell me if i have any tong weight at all. when the pic's were taken i had blocked under the rear to keep the front of the trailer from coming up when i pulled up on it. anyway thanks for all the input. as of now it is sounding like i'll need to move the axles.

Yeah that would be very bad pulling it and very dangerous to boot. I just can't see the front weighing enough to offset the rig sitting back that far, i think it has to move forward not just having the axles back. I know pulling my dad's koboda it pulled best having about 70% just in front/top of the front axle of the trailer wheels which i think is the proper way to load a trailor. Any further back and it just bounced too much. (20' gooseneck)

Before you move that trailer, get under that thing and look at the frame with the rig on it. Check to see that the frame isn't bending in any direction. Then get a couple of your buddies to jump on the very back of the deck, with the rig on it, and check for tweaking again. Get under there with straight edges, tape measures, laser levelers, everything. Then do it all again with the rig off of it. I bet you get some interesting flex out of it. With trailers that size, alot of the strength is using the entire structure. Just like the Golden Gate bridge, the cables hold up the structure. With that trailer, the studs and skin could have been holding up the rear of that trailer. You may have to beef up the rear of that trailer, either above or below the deck. Being a steel trailer, I don't think it will be as serious as a half steel, half aluminum trailer.

I've actually thought about doing a project just like you are doing. I really want to see how your project turns out!




If you feel safe enough to get to a set of scales, get the thing weighed. Without the rig, then weigh the rig, then weigh it with the rig on it. You are aiming for 25% of the total weight on the pin. From there, I can get you the formula for where to move the axles to.


I agree that three axles is not the way to go. Beaver tail is also not the way to go. Horse trailers sit too low for that to work. If anything, I would say to beef the rear section of that deck to prevent too much flex, then adjust the axle ratings accordingly. I don't think you will need heavier axles, but lighter ones.

Originally posted by Joey D
Get out the sawsall and make room for the truck to move forward so the front tires are in front of the trailer tires to give it some more tongue weight. You look to be on the rear edge of the trailer anyways.

not going to happen. the front is already set up for living quarters so i will not change it.



get under that thing and look at the frame with the rig on it.

i have already done that and the horse trailer frame is flimsy once the top has been removed. i am going to add a subframe the whole length of the trailer. i think i am going to use 2x3x1/4" or maybe even 3x3 depending on how much i want to lift it (the trailer rides too low as it is). the 1/4" will add some weight but i feel it will add the much needed strength.

as for the weight of the trailer it is heavier than i would have thought. it is all steel and the walls are all lined with tongue and grove boards. a lot of weight was removed when i cut the rear off. just a single rear door on the thing weight between 75 and 100 lbs i'd say. i was really suprised.

here is the inside

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=2221365

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=2221382

It looks great to me! Your rig is in the same spot as the 2nd rig in most two rig trailers. I certainly wouldn't push the axles back any further...


CJ

These Guys http://www.reyestrailers.com are local to me here in Texas.. They wheel too.
They custom built their own personal trailer.. IIRC, it is a Tandem Axle, deck over axle gooseneck, with dovetail. the front is an integrated camper unit. The rear holds their mudtruggy which is a 4x4 Extended Cab F250.

Very heavy duty and solid. balanced to perfection to hold their rig.

I wish I had photos of it, but unfortunately I dont....

Dexter axle recommends that for a gooseneck type trailer, the hitch weight should be 15-20% of the gross weight of the tow vehicle. If your using a 1 ton, that is probably about 1800-2000 lbs. Put a scale under the hitch with the cruser on the back and see what the hitch weight is, then move the axle to get your target hitch weight. To figure out where to move the axle, divide the target hitch weight by the current hitch weight and then multiply by the current distance from the hitch to the axles.