In switching to the new 44 front axle, I have to do something with the rear. I see a couple of options:

1. Redrill the OEM ford ten inch drum on the 8.8 to 6 on 5.5" and use Moser or Dutchman 31 spline 8.8 shafts with a larger flange to accomadate the bolt pattern.

2. Same shafts, but use FS chevy disks and calipers (18-4046). These calipers are super cheap and the disks can be had at Pick and Pull for about 5 clams. Problem is, no e-brake. These mothers would sure stop in a hurry though. I guess I could use a line lock for an e-brake, or just buy an Atlas II and put HAD's e-brake on that. ;)

3. The wheel sacer route. I don't like this route, cause it messes to much with the rear axle width. This is an XJ, and I really want the tires to tuck into the fenders correctly when articulating.

In either case, I don't think the OEM 8.8 shafts have enough flange "meat" to be re-drilled to 6 on 5.5. How much material should be outside of the stud to be considered safe? What do you all think of line locks as an e-brake? Finally, where can I find a cheap source for Chevy caliper brackets? I thought someone posted a cheap source for all kinds of stamped parts at one time? Finally, are Moser and Dutchman comparable in quality?

Andy

I say go the disk rout and screw the e-brake because you are going to rip the cables off on rocks or tree roots anyway.
get an ebrake setup from Jess (onetoncv) that goes on your t-case.

The spacer/adapters, would be the quickest, easiest, and cheapest. They would ony add about an inch on each side which could be made up with backspacing, if you havent bought your wheels yet.

The little E brakes on the F8.8, are not very strong though. You can very easilyl snap the internals, if you forget the brakes are set, and drive out of them. You cant even feel them in low range, but they sound like an axle letting go, when they grenade.

I say go cheap first, till you get all the bugs worked out. That means adapters or GM rear brakes.

As for an e-brake - do you want it personally or need it for legality / inspection. A line loc will not pass legally as it is not a "seperate" system, but they work quite well.

Here's your brackets:

http://www.aa-mfg.com/

or try the race shops linked on my page

Here's your adapters:

http://adapters-store.com/

http://www.performancewheel.com/

As for the alloy axles, both companies are comprable in terms of quality and workmanship...but their offerings are 2 different beasts entirely.

Mosers are a more ductile 1541 modified alloy, induction hardened, prob superior in fatigue resistance , Dutchman a harder 4130 or 4340? - through hardened I believe, prob superior in terms of resisting a one time overload . Do a search on "alloy" and you'll see we've discussed this quite a bit.

Don't need to pass any inspections, and the cheapness factor of the GM disks has me intruiged. The Caddy caliper route is fairly expensive as well, $92 a piece, but the brackets to put them in are inexpensive. Hmmmm....maybe I should redrill the damn drums and be done with it!

andy/crash

When I aske Moser about redrilling the axle flanges on my 8.8 to 5 x5.5, they said they will do it (and have done it) but they do not recommend it, due to leaving only 1/8" between the holes and the flange edge.

maybe there is a hub and rotor for the front that matches the rear

Originally posted by smurfsdad
maybe there is a hub and rotor for the front that matches the rear

The center hole on 5 on 4 1/2" wheels wont fit over the D44 outer hub.
Some Dodges Ive heard used to run 5 on 4 1/2" pattern on D44s. But Im not sure how they were configured.

Originally posted by H8monday


Some Dodges Ive heard used to run 5 on 4 1/2" pattern on D44s. But Im not sure how they were configured.

...unit bearing crap with tiny hubs